Alcatraz* E1 5b

Rockfax Description
12m. Climb the groove to a roof then make bold moves out right to enter and climb the crack on better holds. © ROCKFAX

FA. Dave Salt 1968

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List.

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This climb is in 58 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

BDC - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/15 with Alec

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/15 with Tom Doldon

with in-situ dead blackbird. thought this was the best route of my day :) think hvs is more fair but will take the E1 tick ;)
PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Andrew Graham

switch - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/14 with James

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Sep/14

jon22 - Lead - 27/Sep/14 with manxclare

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Pete Cawley

First real gritstone E1 onsight, was so pleased to get this! Found it quite sustained and placing gear a bit pumpy, but then again I did kinda lace it with gear!
Tala M - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/14 with Mike Brookes

mcb - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Miles Ridley

andybirtwistle - Lead - 03/Aug/13 with Keith Lonsdale

Mike W - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/13

augustus trout - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/13 with Mike Whitehurst

masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Mitch

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 12/Oct/12

Beta: watched Will climb the first part
Nick Russell - Lead β - 07/Jul/12

Good. Doesn't look it.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with Jake and Niels

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Richard Williams

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/11

Stevepg - 2nd - 06/Aug/11 with Olly, Simon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11

run out off width at the top - took ages to get the four feet up it to reach the finishing slopers...
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Remus Knowles

Wet and greasy, but strangely ok
chrisbussell - 2nd - 19/Jul/11 with Tim O'Neill

Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Thomas Geh

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with dan geh

simonward - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11

lukea - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with dan

djking1983 - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/10 with Rich Brammall

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with tim parkinson

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/10

ldadams - 2nd - 02/Sep/10

Matt10 - 2nd - 02/Sep/10 with ldadams

Fine climb. Nice move with good holds over the overhang. The crack was a bit fiddly but not too hard to work out in the end. Temp was 27deg so didn't fancy the slopers at the top - instead opted to shimmy gracefully up the wider crack!
Irn Bruce - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Ian Jenkins

just after shafmans epic fall!
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

shafiq lalloo - 2nd dog - 17/Apr/10 with jacobjacob

donkster - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with ben

cooper leek - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with donk

Still can't crack climb
MattT88 - Lead dnf - 12/Oct/09 with Alex Maggs

daveagriff - 2nd - 18/Jun/09 with Tom Hemmings

first E1!!
hembug - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/09 with dave

Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Sandy Holford

Sandy Holford - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Anthony Allsopp

self belay on shunt
frume - TR O/S - 02/May/09 with Myself

HamishD - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/09 with Luke Lindsay

jcurley - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/08 with Mike Buddle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/08

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Ash

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/08

Hidden - 2008

simoncov - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Simon Chetwynd

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/04

Hidden - 2003

Gus - 2002

Gus - Lead - 2002

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/92 with baccy

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/79

Total votes cast 44
hard E20 of 15
E20 of 15
easy E20 of 15
hard E11 of 15
E16 of 15
easy E15 of 15
hard HVS3 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
hard 5c0 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c0 of 15
hard 5b0 of 15
5b10 of 15
easy 5b3 of 15
hard 5a2 of 15
5a0 of 15
easy 5a0 of 15
3 Stars0 of 14
2 Stars10 of 14
1 Star4 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat