Rockfax Description
16m. Pull over the centre of the roof at a scoop then traverse crabwise leftwards between the overlaps to escape up the grassy groove at the left-hand end of the face. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS.

bullybones 11/Jun Sent
John Higgs 06/Jun Solo O/S
RKirke 23/May Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr Lead O/S
dean beer 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S

It is a solo throughout the traverse and No pro at all,, until you reach the crack, so the belay is on the short crack I would tape up for the crack ,as I had beat up knuckles,

with Charlotte
Milne 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Finished out left due to wet slimy crack, that and the lack of holds, S 4a my bloody arse. Agree about the belay too, a stake about a mile away is all there is, if the traverse wasn't so good it wouldn't be worth the hassle.

with tom
Somerset swede basher 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 14/May/14 Lead
DanChad 14/May/14 2nd O/S
g1m147 16/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd
Ben T@ylor 22/May/13 Solo O/S

Nightmare. Had to solo and recover a jammed cam and have beat up knuckles! No pro at all until you reach the crack to the left. Fun traverse.

with Alex wright
detritus 22/May/13 Lead O/S

It is a solo throughout the traverse and the belay is in the next county.

Hidden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
bullybones 24/Apr/13 Solo
BALD EAGLE 07/Jun/12 2nd
with Nick Eaton
Graeme Hammond 15/Apr/12 Solo O/S
Double Knee Bar 01/Apr/12 Solo rpt
yarrow 24/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Paul Hy 08/Mar/12 Lead
with Tony
PAJames ??/2012 -
Dave Mason 18/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Adam Gill
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Stuart William 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Dom Pauley
lewismansell 09/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
jmjw 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Freezing couldn't feel my hands after the first 2 moves but a really fun traverse

with Sophie R
shafiq lalloo 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Belay is miles a way, makes it impossible to communicate with 2nd

with szelest
Hidden 05/Oct/10 Lead O/S
ben comery 05/Oct/10 2nd O/S

seconded toms route to remove gear after luke failed to leave the ground

with Tom D
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
szelest 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Double Knee Bar 03/Aug/10 Lead dog

Decked out, took a strange line on the traverse.

with Iain
Kingsjester 03/Jul/10 Lead β

Long traverse on no gear.

simeclimb68 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Tala M 03/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
radioactivekid 29/May/10 2nd O/S
with Kyya
hapymike 17/May/10 Lead
The Bad Cough 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett
donkster 27/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with ben
cooper leek 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with donk
Hidden 19/Mar/10 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ChuckstarUK 24/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Mark Blair
markblair 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S

An enjoyable traverse but the finish was a bit green and as this was done in the height of summer I guess it diesn't get any better than that! Not much at the top to belay from either

with Charles Thornhill
HamishD 24/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Luke Lindsay
brew_guru 05/Jan/09 2nd


gaz_jones 05/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
dannyboy83 22/Oct/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Rampikino 30/Mar/08 Lead
with Cat
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
stemill 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Graham
Calder 11/Nov/07 2nd
with Ste
nai 05/Oct/07 Sent rpt
with Nick Warren
Climb Rox ?/Oct/07 Lead
daza 22/Sep/07 Lead
with Old Andy
doughboy_swiftandsure 24/Jul/07 Solo RP

decided to re-visit the ground whilst trying to tranverse the overlaps. Second attempt was a clean ascent.

Hidden 20/May/07 Solo O/S
Marvino 14/Apr/07 Lead

Very enjoyable!

with Rach
rachelwheatcroft 14/Apr/07 2nd

Fell off!!

with Marvino
C.J.Horsfield ??/2007 2nd
Simon Caldwell 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Super route, tricky HS 4b, though it's unclear what level you're supposed to traverse at. I went at mid-height, with hands on the ramp line just above the big 'bucket' formations.

with Carmen and Dave E
jonnyboy 07/Aug/06 Solo O/S
ikl minx 07/Aug/06 Solo RP
with jonnyboy
tomboyle 19/Jun/06 Lead
with horsi
timjones 28/Jun/05 Lead
with Adeline Jones
mol 07/May/05 Solo
Chesh ?/May/05 2nd
with Lawrence
Chris Davids 02/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Reuben
Hidden ??/2005 -
ASchwirtz 27/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Gus ??/2003 Solo
Hidden 22/Sep/02 2nd
Hedley 28/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Emily
Gus 04/Mar/00 Solo
Phil West 10/Jul/99 Solo O/S
kitkat78 ?/May/99 -
with Gavin E
rlrs ??/1999 Lead
michael burrows 21/Jun/95 Solo
Duncan Bourne 30/May/94 Solo
Roget 19/Jun/91 Solo O/S
nai ??/1991 Solo
mikej 18/Apr/81 Solo
with Bob Lewis, Mike Mason
rogerskews 25/Feb/79 Solo
Dave Musgrove 15/Apr/78 -
with Kenny Winkworth, Richard Crewe
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ruthonbike, Kamikaze Badger
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Mid HS
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High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 13
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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