Rockfax Description
12m. Climb the curving crack to a good ledge then climb the wall on the right passing a slanting crack. The arete to the left of the start is Short and Sweet - 6a. © Rockfax

Bradwell 31/Oct TR O/S
tom bre 11/Oct 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep 2nd O/S
JEP 16/Jul Lead rpt
with Jules
Jules Lane 16/Jul 2nd rpt
with Jonathon Prager
petern 11/Jul 2nd dog
cem 04/Jul Lead rpt

Not led this before.

Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
HazelMacLean 04/Jul 2nd dog
rob 528 29/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun Lead O/S
Rob84 23/Jun 2nd dog
with Pidg
MatthewH 26/Apr Lead O/S

Direct up the slab

with Simon Robertshaw
Hidden 23/Apr -
DanChad 23/Apr 2nd O/S

Jay led but Dad didn't manage it.

with Jay Ibrahim
Hidden 20/Apr 2nd
amccann 07/Mar Solo O/S
harry_lewis 07/Mar Solo O/S
with Matt Harmon
franhammond92 07/Mar Lead O/S

Very almost fell off but managed to slap to the jug as my very thin jam fell out. Good fun route

with Milena
Jake Young 07/Mar Lead G/U

Fell on the crux trying to use the flake. Should have just smashed from the rail to the jug.

buxtoncoffeelover 02/Oct/14 2nd

Abseiled to pre-place 2 threads for Tom to lead first HVS. Then had to rest on rope to retrieve first thread.

tom_lewis89 02/Oct/14 Lead

On preplaced threads. Full on lead would involved some marginal cams/nuts!

angus 14/Sep/14 Solo O/S
with rich sawyer
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Gerko ?/Sep/14 AltLd dnf


Patrick Green 04/Aug/14 Lead β
with Edward Cooney
BTphonehome 31/Jul/14 Lead β
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 31/Jul/14 2nd RP
with Bram
kermit_uk 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Michelle
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Albachoss 16/Jun/14 Solo O/S
planetmarshall 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Glen
Triggy Pop 02/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/14 Lead
Senna 31/May/14 Lead O/S
steven 31/May/14 2nd dog
with Brian Hull
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd dog
Bloke on a Rope 18/May/14 2nd β
with Jake, Matt
oodie72 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with Ingo Boegeman, Fraser Campbell
RFWilkie 04/May/14 Lead O/S
will_benfold 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Angus McBride
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead
fuzzysheep01 29/Mar/14 Lead dog

Rested on gear as big hold was sopping wet. Went straight up from flake crack via 2-finger pocket - 5b move?

TomGB 29/Mar/14 2nd dog
with Joe
fredallingham 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Superb, if a bit of a one-move-wonder.

Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Left hand jam and a reachy dynamic move up with the right hand. Great one move wonder. Took a while to commit from the comfortable ledge underneath.

with Paul, James Lawson
simeclimb68 25/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead dog
Andy Hardy 05/Jul/13 Lead dog
tsl42 26/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Bailed right after repeated slumps/falls/ Must be missing something...(possibly balls)...

with David Fountain
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd
Jules Lane 01/May/13 2nd O/S

Fantastic moves if done dynamically. Wouldn't be keen to lead.

Hoyes 01/May/13 Lead dog

Still can't do this route clean!

JEP 30/Apr/13 Lead
Stoff 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Mark L, gpcomps
R2B 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Particularly nice route. One move really but a gorgeous move. Loved it

with Charlotte
dutybooty 07/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Failed on crux after repeated falls. One of which included hitting the ledge. Found it very hard.

kasha_gregson 06/Apr/13 2nd dog
BTphonehome 06/Apr/13 Lead dnf
johnself1603 02/Mar/13 2nd β
fifth ??/2013 -
Will Caesar 09/Oct/12 2nd
RichyBOYY 09/Oct/12 Lead

Great Move!!!

Bry 09/Sep/12 2nd β
PeteWilson 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

just 1 move, nice though!

with Andrew Graham
petekeron 24/Aug/12 Solo O/S
with Solo
ozzie35 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Graham
Hidden 05/Aug/12 2nd dnf
sputnik 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mrs Z
c00kie 04/Aug/12 2nd
with Gavin
g1m147 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Wayne s
Wayne S 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Gary
Leonhamnett 12/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't do the crux move so finished off on No Name

claregardiner 30/Jun/12 Lead
richyg 30/Jun/12 2nd
gpcomps 25/May/12 2nd rpt
Stoff 24/May/12 Lead rpt

Yes - this time clean !!!

with gpcomps
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 14/Mar/12 Solo O/S
timmyhobby 12/Mar/12 Lead

put cams in the break where i would have love to have had my hands, made it much harder for myself!

mrginna 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S
thefuturesmiles ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore ??/2012 Lead dnf

The crucial hold was sopping wet. I shall return!

Hidden ??/2012 -
mister3able 06/Nov/11 TR dog
minirollsrule 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
scotty h 06/Nov/11 2nd dog
richorme 01/Oct/11 2nd dnf
with Paul Horabin
paul horabin 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead
katherinesydney 10/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
eeonz 02/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
najki_2000 24/Jul/11 2nd dog

looong moves between good holds, bouldery; took a couple of tries to do the crux clean

with Chris Rose
Chriswallis2 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Col Allott 28/Jun/11 Solo O/S

did the 'short and sweet' start.

Lumbering Oaf 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Too tired to finish!

Hoyes 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf
with Matt B
DanT 20/Jun/11 2nd dog
with James Moore, Paul Rowlands
joe king 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with James Moore, dan towns
mattgrange 15/Jun/11 Lead

Incredibly painful handjam, otherwise good

Ketu 08/May/11 Lead O/S
with Charles M
cem 08/May/11 2nd rpt
with Rob Truckle
climbinmunkey 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Super climb! Lots of gear at the crux unfortunately very strenuous to place so I elected not to place it and go for the dead point move above. Solid and very exciting.

with Andy
Hidden 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
nath_casper 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with adam
Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd
dabreen 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Viki 17/Apr/11 Lead dog
MarkCunnington 17/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Fell on crux and gear ripped (Fell 7m). Ended up in Stockport Hospital with broken ankle and 7 stitches in my head and plate and 2 pins after op on the ankle

Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
whiting.jp 10/Apr/11 Lead
with jamesca
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
gravity 09/Apr/11 2nd β

A nice route the move towards the top was strenuous, with only smears for feet!

with Max Adamson
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead dnf
daveyji ?/Apr/11 2nd

great climb. Want to go lead it now.

with JT
minirollsrule 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

WILL LEAD next time i am at castle naze, nice tricky start followed by a thrusty hand traverse and then a pull up to a dyno... easier to not use the slanting crack, just dyno past it

with Tim Nixon
Stuart William 19/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Sid
Goose4 ??/2011 Lead
d_evo20 21/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with James Brownhill
Aufton 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Ali Makay
Alaina 20/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dad
Mitch1990 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

amazing route, did my first outdoor dyno on this route after the traverse up onto the top of the block.

Stoff 24/Jun/10 Lead dog

Must come back and do it clean !

with gpcomps
gpcomps 24/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/10 2nd O/S
mol 20/Jun/10 Lead
with Jesse
davidwright 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
Jesse Dufton 20/Jun/10 2nd
mattshort 12/Jun/10 2nd
with Pete Shaw
Hidden 10/Jun/10 2nd
bobpilgrem 31/May/10 Lead β

repeat lead.Nice route.

with Bob/Tom
tompilgrem 31/May/10 2nd
with Dad
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead dog
Sam Simpson 30/May/10 Lead O/S
jamesgodwin64 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Ky 12/May/10 Lead dog
with Crucko
MTS 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with James
JamieSparkes 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S

nearly came off this when trying to use tiny edges in my edgeless shoes!

with Nick
Nick1812P 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Barry D 13/Apr/10 2nd
with Martin K
edmitchell 26/Sep/09 Lead dog
with tamsin mayberry
fatbuoybazza 26/Sep/09 Lead dog
Philsy 26/Sep/09 TR
with Liv, Baz, Dave Watson
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
A Downing 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Monkton
B_M 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Andrew Downing
Rampikino 13/Sep/09 Lead
with Cat
JWB 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Ali
julian allen 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd
RCrockford 19/Apr/09 2nd
with Chris F
Jon Dittman 19/Apr/09 2nd
deejmonkey 15/Mar/09 Lead
with Tom
tomparrott 15/Mar/09 2nd
with DJ
bobpilgrem 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S

slipped and slithered several times before eventually making the long reach for the ledge !Key was to get foot high on left wall and keep it there !Good route- and very well protected by solid wires behind the flake.

with Bob/Nic
Hidden 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
nienke 27/Jul/08 2nd
with Adam Young
coffeepot 27/Jul/08 2nd
with jelaby
Benrj ?/May/08 Lead dog

first HVS lead, had to drop back onto the ledge a couple of times before making it to the top

Trigoc ?/Mar/08 Lead
with Phil
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
stordys ??/2008 -

second - an went off route

eirenutter 02/Nov/07 -
with sean, lora, beth, lydia
Hidden 30/Sep/07 2nd
gravity 09/Sep/07 TR
with Joff
adam carless 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

big thuggy fun moves.

Hidden 08/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Laurence Everitt 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
TGreen 03/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/07 2nd dog
climber130887 09/May/07 Lead
with pete
tom_1985 ?/May/07 Lead
with Jules
ASchwirtz 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ian Bruce
SecretSquirrel 01/Apr/07 Lead

Got pumped & rested on gear because I didn't do the move quick enough.

with Bill
Matt Bill Platypus 01/Apr/07 2nd dog

Rested at 'the' move. What a scaredy cat!

Jules_Robbo ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Tom
Col Allott 25/Jan/07 Solo O/S
donkster ??/2007 Lead O/S
with dennis
ChrisBrooke 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Carole Baker
SecretSquirrel 04/Jul/06 Lead dog

First HVS lead - no falls, but rested on gear below the slanting block above the main ledge. In my defense, it was one of those incredibly hot & sticky evenings where even M&S mini-flapjack-bites can't keep up the energy!

Cameron13 04/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/06 2nd RP
Shad ?/May/06 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/05 TR
DavidR 18/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Aidan McGuffie
A Crook 13/Nov/04 2nd
FrankW 16/Oct/04 2nd O/S
with Chris R
cem 04/Jul/04 2nd
with Rod Strachan, Graham Dolman
Rob Davies 23/May/04 Lead
with Charles Kinniburgh, Les Goram
Carl Smethurst 21/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Dave Pemberton, Alan Bowring
SteveM 14/Sep/03 Lead dnf

Backed off

phardman 19/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Teresa
John Eley ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 16/Aug/94 2nd

Excellent, dynamic route

with Pete --?
Rob Davies 12/May/91 Lead
with Angus McLean
uphillnow ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/80 Solo
Hidden 24/May/77 Solo O/S
gazbonutter ??/0000 2nd dog
with Tom Roo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, PeteWilson
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set