Derbyshire > Castle Naze >
 
Ledgeway HVS 5a

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Short But Sweet >>
12m. Climb the curving crack to a good ledge then climb the wall on the right passing a slanting crack. The arete to the left of the start is Short and Sweet - 6a. © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 165 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/14

Rested on gear. Straight up from flake crack via 2-finger pocket - definite 5b move.
fuzzysheep01 - Lead dog - 29/Mar/14 with Tom Morris

Meltus - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/14 with Joe

Superb, if a bit of a one-move-wonder.
fredallingham - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13

Left hand jam and a reachy dynamic move up with the right hand. Great one move wonder. Took a while to commit from the comfortable ledge underneath.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Paul, James Lawson

simeclimb68 - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jul/13

999thAndy - Lead dog - 05/Jul/13

Bailed right after repeated slumps/falls/ Must be missing something...(possibly balls)...
tsl42 - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/13 with David Fountain

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/13

Fantastic moves if done dynamically. Wouldn't be keen to lead.
Julian Lane - 2nd O/S - 01/May/13 with Mynydd James

Still can't do this route clean!
Hoyes - Lead dog - 01/May/13 with Julian L

JEP - Lead - 30/Apr/13

Stoff - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/13 with Mark L, gpcomps

Particularly nice route. One move really but a gorgeous move. Loved it
R2B - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Charlotte

Failed on crux after repeated falls. One of which included hitting the ledge. Found it very hard.
dutybooty - Lead dnf - 07/Apr/13 with Dan Camm

kasha_gregson - 2nd dog - 06/Apr/13

BTphonehome - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/13

johnself1603 - 2nd β - 02/Mar/13

fifth - 2013

Will Caesar - 2nd - 09/Oct/12 with Ric Elliott

Great Move!!!
RichyBOYY - Lead - 09/Oct/12 with Will Caesar

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Sep/12

just 1 move, nice though!
PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Andrew Graham

petekeron - Solo O/S - 24/Aug/12 with Solo

ozzie35 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Steve Graham

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 05/Aug/12

sputnik - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Mrs Z

c00kie - 2nd - 04/Aug/12 with Gavin

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jul/12

Wayne S - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with Gary

Couldn't do the crux move so finished off on No Name
Leonhamnett - Lead dnf - 12/Jul/12 with Shaun Humphreys

claregardiner - Lead - 30/Jun/12

richyg - 2nd - 30/Jun/12

gpcomps - 2nd rpt - 25/May/12 with Chris Bridgland

Yes - this time clean !!!
Stoff - Lead rpt - 24/May/12 with gpcomps

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/12

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 14/Mar/12

put cams in the break where i would have love to have had my hands, made it much harder for myself!
timmyhobby - Lead - 12/Mar/12

mrginna - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Ben Pinches, Emma Campbell

thefuturesmiles - Lead O/S - Feb/12 with Emma Campbell, Ian Hawley

The crucial hold was sopping wet. I shall return!
MichaelGallimore - Lead dnf - 2012

Hidden - 2012

mister3able - TR dog - 06/Nov/11

minirollsrule - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

scotty h - 2nd dog - 06/Nov/11 with Matt Snell

richorme - 2nd dnf - 01/Oct/11 with Paul Horabin

paul horabin - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/11

katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/11 with steve mount

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

eeonz - 2nd - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

looong moves between good holds, bouldery; took a couple of tries to do the crux clean
najki_2000 - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/11 with Chris Rose

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with jenny

did the 'short and sweet' start.
Col Allott - Solo O/S - 28/Jun/11

Too tired to finish!
Lumbering Oaf - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/11 with James Hoyes, Rach Batt

Hoyes - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/11 with Matt B

DanT - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/11 with James Moore, Paul Rowlands

joe king - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/11 with James Moore, dan towns

Incredibly painful handjam, otherwise good
mattgrange - Lead - 15/Jun/11

Ketu - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Charles M

cem - 2nd rpt - 08/May/11 with Rob Truckle

Super climb! Lots of gear at the crux unfortunately very strenuous to place so I elected not to place it and go for the dead point move above. Solid and very exciting.
climbinmunkey - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/11

nath_casper - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with adam

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/11

dabreen - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with campbell west

Viki - Lead dog - 17/Apr/11

Fell on crux and gear ripped (Fell 7m). Ended up in Stockport Hospital with broken ankle and 7 stitches in my head and plate and 2 pins after op on the ankle
MarkCunnington - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/11 with Arun Thomas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11

whiting.jp - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with jamesca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

A nice route the move towards the top was strenuous, with only smears for feet!
gravity - 2nd β - 09/Apr/11 with Max Adamson

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Apr/11

great climb. Want to go lead it now.
daveyji - 2nd - Apr/11 with JT

WILL LEAD next time i am at castle naze, nice tricky start followed by a thrusty hand traverse and then a pull up to a dyno... easier to not use the slanting crack, just dyno past it
minirollsrule - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Tim Nixon

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Mar/11

Goose4 - Lead - 2011

d_evo20 - 2nd O/S - 21/Nov/10 with James Brownhill

Aufton - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Ali Makay

Alaina - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/10 with Dad

amazing route, did my first outdoor dyno on this route after the traverse up onto the top of the block.
Mitch1990 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

Must come back and do it clean !
Stoff - Lead dog - 24/Jun/10 with gpcomps

gpcomps - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Chris Bridgland

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/10

mol - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Jesse

davidwright - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Sam

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

Jesse Dufton - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Molly Thompson

mattshort - 2nd - 12/Jun/10 with Pete Shaw

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/10

repeat lead.Nice route.
bobpilgrem - Lead β - 31/May/10 with Bob/Tom

tompilgrem - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Dad

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/May/10

samsimpson - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with R8JimBob88

Ky - Lead dog - 12/May/10 with Crucko

MTS - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with James

nearly came off this when trying to use tiny edges in my edgeless shoes!
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Jamie

Barry D - 2nd - 13/Apr/10 with Martin K

edmitchell - Lead dog - 26/Sep/09 with tamsin mayberry

fatbuoybazza - Lead dog - 26/Sep/09 with liv_the_div

Philsy - TR - 26/Sep/09 with Liv, Baz, Dave Watson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09

A Downing - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Ben Monkton

B_M - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with Andrew Downing

Rampikino - Lead - 13/Sep/09 with Cat

JWB - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Ali

julian allen - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - May/09

Hidden - 2nd - May/09

RCrockford - 2nd - 19/Apr/09 with Chris F

Jon Dittman - 2nd - 19/Apr/09

deejmonkey - Lead - 15/Mar/09 with Tom

tomparrott - 2nd - 15/Mar/09 with DJ

slipped and slithered several times before eventually making the long reach for the ledge !Key was to get foot high on left wall and keep it there !Good route- and very well protected by solid wires behind the flake.
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Bob/Nic

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08

nienke - 2nd - 27/Jul/08 with Adam Young

coffeepot - 2nd - 27/Jul/08 with jelaby

first HVS lead, had to drop back onto the ledge a couple of times before making it to the top
Benrj - Lead dog - May/08

Trigoc - Lead - Mar/08 with Phil

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

second - an went off route
stordys - 2008

eirenutter - 02/Nov/07 with sean, lora, beth, lydia

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/07

gravity - TR - 09/Sep/07 with Joff

big thuggy fun moves.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with practicalcat

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/07 with Tom Green

TGreen - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/07 with Lozzy Baby

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/07

climber130887 - Lead - 09/May/07 with pete

tom_1985 - Lead - May/07 with Jules

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Ian Bruce

Got pumped & rested on gear because I didn't do the move quick enough.
SecretSquirrel - Lead - 01/Apr/07 with Bill

Rested at 'the' move. What a scaredy cat!
Matt Bill Platypus - 2nd dog - 01/Apr/07 with SecretSquirrel

Jules_Robbo - 2nd - Apr/07 with Tom

Col Allott - Solo O/S - 25/Jan/07

donkster - Lead O/S - 2007 with dennis

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Carole Baker

First HVS lead - no falls, but rested on gear below the slanting block above the main ledge. In my defense, it was one of those incredibly hot & sticky evenings where even M&S mini-flapjack-bites can't keep up the energy!
SecretSquirrel - Lead dog - 04/Jul/06 with Cameron13

Cameron13 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/06 with SecretSquirrel

Hidden - 2nd RP - 10/May/06

Shad - Lead - May/06

Hidden - TR - 07/Sep/05

DavidR - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/05 with Aidan McGuffie

A Crook - 2nd - 13/Nov/04 with Dom Stockton

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/04 with Chris R

cem - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/04

Carl Smethurst - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/03 with Dave Pemberton, Alan Bowring

Backed off
SteveM - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/03

phardman - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/00 with Teresa

Excellent, dynamic route
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 16/Aug/94 with Pete --?

Hidden - Solo - 27/Aug/80

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/May/77

gazbonutter - 2nd dog - 0000 with Tom Roo

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, PeteWilson

Voting
Total votes cast 109
hard E10 of 38
E10 of 38
easy E10 of 38
hard HVS6 of 38
HVS32 of 38
easy HVS0 of 38
hard VS0 of 38
VS0 of 38
easy VS0 of 38
hard 5b0 of 39
5b1 of 39
easy 5b16 of 39
hard 5a9 of 39
5a12 of 39
easy 5a1 of 39
hard 4c0 of 39
4c0 of 39
easy 4c0 of 39
3 Stars0 of 32
2 Stars12 of 32
1 Star19 of 32
0 Stars1 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
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Style of ascent

Soloed7 of 165 (4.2%)
Lead90 of 165 (54.5%)
Followed60 of 165 (36.4%)
Toproped4 of 165 (2.4%)
Unknown4 of 165 (2.4%)

'Climbed'56 of 165 (33.9%)
clean O/S63 of 165 (38.2%)
clean β4 of 165 (2.4%)
clean rpt4 of 165 (2.4%)
clean RP1 of 165 (0.6%)
dogged25 of 165 (15.2%)
dnf12 of 165 (7.3%)