Rockfax Description
10m. A mini-classic, intense and varied, packing a lot of climbing into a short distance. Gain the undercut flake with difficulty and follow it to its end where scary friction moves lead leftwards up a ramp to easy ground. Best climbed when the boggy area below the route is in prime condition, making falling off even more undesirable than normal. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1974

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Sam Cooper 15/Apr Solo O/S
td72 09/Mar Solo RP

Top roped a couple of times, cleaned it up then got it on solo

Tom.Priestley 20/Sep/14 Sent dnf

Got up to the pebbly step right and came down as it was a bit high. Was going to come back with a rope but midges scared us off.

scott quinn 20/Sep/14 Sent dnf

V2 to the pebble rock over above the flake, we both looked at topping out but decided we wanted to rope! fucking midges

Andrew Abraham 27/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Sam Riley, Ceara
Will Murphy 12/Jun/14 Solo RP
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry 01/Mar/14 Lead

Fantastic varied climbing! Lead after bouldering out the crux start.

ianstevens 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Samuel Wainwright 24/Feb/13 Lead dog
Ky ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dave H
Matt Cooke 01/Apr/12 Lead RP

Had climbed to the bottom of the flake previously when bouldering in the cave at the bottom

with Rosh
jacobjacob 25/Feb/12 Solo rpt

above some pads.

Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
maddy.c ??/2012 -
James82 02/Oct/11 Sent x
robman 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
fennerz 08/May/11 Sent O/S

Amazing! Must admit i was shaking a bit even before i committed to the slab :P

with Sean Grady
grady ?/May/11 Solo O/S

above a couple of small pads

Hidden 26/Mar/11 Solo dnf
The Green Giant 19/Jan/11 Solo dnf

Had to get a rope thrown down to me whist standing on the jug. Next time I'll read the description, rock over on pebbles...

with Dan with the van
infected mushroom ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
phil64 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S


with tim hunter
will randall ?/Aug/10 TR O/S
with sarah
Sam Simpson 06/Jul/10 TR
DorsetGareth 04/Jul/10 2nd RP

Really sketchy - well done Pip!

with Pip
jacobjacob 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
i_a_coops ?/Jun/10 Lead β
with Jacob
willoates 30/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Fell 1st time on the rock over... second time fell from the last move over the top, ended up about a 1 meter off the floor thanks to lawrences quick feet... cheers loz

with lawrence
kingholmesy ??/2010 Solo O/S
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Pete Graham 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 20/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Hmmm..... just bottled it really.

with Pippa Froggatt
mic_b 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with James Blake
quiffhanger 26/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
DannyK 04/Apr/09 TR O/S
with pep
nige 20/Feb/09 Lead
with john reti
Tobes ?/Feb/09 Lead dnf

couldn't make the left move onto pebbles, well tried but ended up in the cave. gears good, ran out of time to finish....will be back

with Alex
northy1983 ?/Feb/09 Solo RP
Luke Brooks 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Wild
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd β
Mr Wild 10/May/08 Lead dnf

couldn't make the step left onto the pepple, i think its a winter route lol

with olly
Hidden 25/Apr/08 2nd O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/07 TR β
gregoritos ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 28/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Brian Rodgers ??/2007 2nd
philhilo ??/2007 Lead O/S

Remember spending a long time fruitlessly looking for some more holds at the top!

dan gibson 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Pythonist 07/Aug/06 Lead dnf

Failed to step out onto the upper scoop... again!

with Dave
feilx 29/Jul/06 2nd
dannyboy83 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
shark 05/Mar/06 2nd
shark 28/Jan/06 2nd rpt
with Mike Garton
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Solo O/S
Andrew Barker ?/Oct/05 Lead

Tried earlierin 2005, downclimbed from last gear as I didn't trust the footholds with a hole in my shoe!

with Jack Symmons
Ropeboy 20/Feb/05 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
mbutton ?/Sep/04 Lead β
with Gus Hudgens
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Jun/03 Lead O/S

Nice contrast between the upper and lower sections of the route.

with Nik Howard
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead dnf
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Viv
sadams ?/Apr/01 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Dave Bond ??/2001 Lead O/S
with rob seward
petekeron ??/2001 TR RP
Gus 19/Oct/00 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Lead
with Pom
philhilo ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
Hidden 05/Jun/99 Lead
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
Hidden 08/Aug/98 2nd
AlexRenshaw 01/Jun/97 Lead
switch ??/1997 Lead

1 fall

shark 10/May/96 Lead O/S
with Pete Cole
WB ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Stu
robtrooper ??/1996 -
DavidBarraclough ??/1996 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Chris Reid ?/May/93 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
Mark Kemball 15/Apr/93 Lead
with Bill Kemball
ste_d 12/Apr/93 Solo O/S
Carl Hamer ??/1993 TR dog
Hidden 18/Jul/92 Lead
andrew300169 05/Jul/92 Lead dnf
with Tim
Hidden 27/May/92 TR
adi bryant 02/Oct/91 Lead RP
with Tim
Hidden 08/May/91 2nd
Rich Kirby 06/May/91 Lead
with Andy Mackay
Duncan I ?/May/91 2nd
Roget 27/Apr/91 Lead G/U

Fell off on previous attempt

with jon
channinga ??/1991 -
Billg ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 27/May/90 2nd
Stoney Boy 14/May/89 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 11/Mar/89 Lead O/S
with Ken Padgett
Hidden 23/Jun/88 TR
Tom V ??/1986 TR
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 03/Nov/85 Lead
with Sean Myles
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Hidden ??/1983 Lead O/S
Andy Stephenson ??/1982 TR O/S
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 59
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set