San Melas*** E3 5c
[Summer evening cragging, 1 kb]8m.

Rockfax Description
8m. The centre of the slab to a move right at half height and a delicate finish. The start is bold but the smeary upper slab is protected by large cams in the break. © ROCKFAX

FA. Andrew Woodward 1977

Ticklists: BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, 3 Star Graded.

Photo: Summer evening cragging © Marek
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This climb is in 284 logbooks, and on 52 wishlists.

Tried this on a rope a couple of years ago and said I'd never lead it, so pretty chuffed.
dashed - Lead RP - 03/Oct/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15

Just like telli but more comitting
islandlynx - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/15 with TomRiddelsdell, matthew beals

Matt77 - 2nd - 05/Sep/15 with Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell, Shane

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/Aug/15

Mike Turner - TR - 20/Jun/15

FlavioL1989 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/15 with Mike Gallimore

Placed a side runner to protect the lower section of slab. High rockovers on upper slab felt super committing.
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 30/May/15 with Flavio

Nick_Merriman - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15 with Fraser Hill-Casey

Fraser hill-casey - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Lewis neve

g1m147 - TR - 26/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/15

Hidden - TR dnf - 15/Feb/15

Hidden - TR dog - 15/Feb/15

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jan/15

James-m-h - Lead dog - 2015

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2015

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/14 with Neil C

Quickly put a rope on this, weather was very damp and very windy! Slipped near the bottom. Found it easy after. Not quite ready for the lead.... yet.
Jackwd - TR dog - 28/Oct/14

damp rock and rather windy conditions made the top moves rather interesting...
charley - TR rpt - 28/Oct/14 with JackD

James Oakes - Lead β - 05/Oct/14 with Emlyn James, Steve Ramsden, Guy Van Greuning

Ram MkiV - Lead β - 05/Oct/14 with emlyn, noaks, Guy

clairemathews - TR dog - 28/Sep/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 28/Sep/14

My mate got on this after doing a S (crazy barstuward), great little route but my god risky and stout.
jamesgodwin64 - 2nd β - 21/Sep/14 with John Cooper

Seems we went the wrong way at the bottom. Wouldn't like to fall from the top.
Tom.Priestley - TR O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Scott Quinn

Was about to lead this glad I didn't the climbing wasn't too hard just very insecure with a fairly bad fall giving you could fluff any move until the pebble
scott quinn - TR O/S - 21/Sep/14

rob 528 - Lead G/U - Sep/14

danJBA - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14

al123 - Lead β - 03/Aug/14 with Henry

robman - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Jun/14

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Jun/14

Stefan_Morris - 2nd rpt - 18/May/14 with Edmundmorris

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with stefan

Hidden - TR - 03/May/14

switch - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Tim H

amccann - Lead β - 30/Mar/14

scary but quality route !
Ed carrigan - Lead β - 02/Feb/14

Back in the game
theomoore - Lead β - 02/Feb/14

robertmctague - Lead O/S - 2014

simonfilson - Lead RP - 25/Nov/13

Couldn't commit to upper rockover
Ross.Cooper - Lead dnf - 16/Nov/13 with Patrick Hill

Patrick Hill - TR O/S - 16/Nov/13 with Ross Cooper

joese7en - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13

bwestwood - 2nd - 10/Nov/13 with pete sargeant

Jordanh031 - TR O/S - 01/Oct/13

Jordanh031 - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/13

mikealexpayne - TR - 24/Sep/13

Very happy with this, after some dithering to start with.
Climbster - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - 2nd β - 05/Sep/13 with Matt

bloody scary !! great route tho
Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Mike

aidanb - TR O/S - 18/Aug/13

adamashcroft - TR - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - 09/Aug/13

Mike Turner - TR O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Jason Merison, Eddie Webster, Jeremy Hall, Ian Ackerley, Martin Hore

WillDoyle - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/13

couldn't quite make the move above the break where you smear on your left foot, will sort it out next time i'm there.
warrygallace - TR dnf - Jun/13 with dylan (Maria's mate)

Hidden - TR - 01/May/13

Ky - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Dave H

RichyBOYY - TR O/S - 05/Mar/13 with Pete Wilson

had top-roped a while ago, what a route! gotta be one of my favourites
PeteWilson - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Andrew Graham

Harry Chaplin - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13

cal91 - Lead β - 02/Mar/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Feb/13

Rich Kay - TR - 17/Feb/13 with Darren H

AndrewJamesCherry - Lead RP - 2013 with stef morris

My first E3! Lovely moves, lovely little climb. Could get into this smeary stuff.
manwithacam - Lead - 03/Nov/12 with Mike R

Great route, get those smears working! Some how Steve climbed it without using his feet scary watching!
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - Oct/12 with Ky, Steve Hammond

backed off it
richiebongo - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/12 with Dan Perrot, Jon Didymus

Lovely route. Conditions were rubbish, rock was too sweaty and was too hot for me. Over balanced on the crux and popped off. Strange thing was though as I was being lowered off I said "I can lead that"!! Steve went up and got it first time. I got it second time, was a little bit cooler by then and felt much more confident on it. Got to come back and attempt the lead.
charley - TR RP - 08/Sep/12 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - TR O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Charley Fell

Hidden - 01/Sep/12

dja - TR O/S - 22/Aug/12 with Andy Smith

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Aug/12

Hillson - TR - 22/Aug/12 with Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson

WillDoyle - Lead dnf - 23/Jul/12

matthomas79 - TR rpt - 21/Jul/12 with Tala M

Took a lob off the crux rock over after lots of dithering. Thanks to Jess for the catch! Got straight back on and did it. Very pleased to get it 2nd time. All felt pretty tenuous would like to try in different conditions
monsteratt - Lead RP - 21/Jul/12 with Jess

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jul/12

'jug-like pebble!' yeah right :-)
Jessica Taylor - 2nd - Jul/12

kez1 - TR O/S - 01/Jun/12 with rob rendle

First E3 lead! I'm starting to like this slab climbing thing, especially enjoyed those rockovers above the break
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Steve Shenton

SJS - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Nick

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 16/May/12 with Ben

Hidden - TR - 13/May/12

benny_m - TR RP - 13/May/12 with Ali Brown

Hidden - TR dnf - 13/May/12

Misha - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with Donna

Hidden - TR dog - 13/May/12

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

ranga - 2nd - 06/May/12

saffy - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

TM_Horton - TR O/S - 04/May/12

too good to describe! top roped clean (didnt think i could get it) then geared up and got the lead in !!! amazing
TM_Horton - Lead RP - 04/May/12 with webby

Hidden - TR rpt - 03/May/12

The Dangler - TR O/S - 03/May/12

A definite step up in my leading level, this needed a pretty cool had to make the irreversible step up onto smears. Steady climbing though.
jonnybull - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Mags

Felt right on the limit of friction!
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/11 with John Crook

first e3. horrible and fantastic at the same time.
jimhall - Lead RP - 15/Nov/11 with Paddy

"Small friends protect"?! Felt pretty bold as a result
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Charlotte

Mark Dennison - TR - 11/Sep/11 with Dawn

hell of a nice route!
PeteWilson - TR O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Andrew Graham

Ky - Lead RP - 15/Aug/11 with Danny T

richardr - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/11

deejmonkey - TR - 10/Jul/11 with Gaz

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - TR - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

thrutch - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with helen

RachaelB - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Rob Battams

Hammy - TR - 04/Jun/11 with Shunt

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

Felt psyched for this so i rushed up it, thought i was off on the crux but managed to levitate up it. Phew.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 31/May/11 with Rob Middleton

marcoleptic - TR - 25/May/11 with Andy Shep

galpinos - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Sam

MD - TR dog - 21/May/11 with Ed

eduardo - TR dog - 21/May/11 with Mike Den

finished in the dark
OMSKB - TR - 17/May/11 with Richard Winfield

Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11 with Laurence Everitt

Hidden - TR rpt - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Apr/11

Sam Simpson - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/11 with Christian Turford

Hidden - TR dog - 26/Mar/11

ed woods - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/11 with Marshall

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/11 with Eddie

Daymo - TR dog - 06/Mar/11 with Gaz, Len Oakes

Hidden - TR - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11

Jacob Bloodworth - Lead O/S - Feb/11

Jacob Bloodworth - Lead O/S - Feb/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Planned to lead it but it was a bit greasy - good job cos fell off just on the break (just where you can place the first gear so would have taken a bit of a tumble)
Mark Dennison - TR - 12/Dec/10

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - Nov/10

My first E3 and what a fantastic climb, lead after plenty of practice and kept the top rope nearby as a just incase measure, not that it would have been much use if I just popped off.
matthomas79 - Lead RP - 24/Oct/10

simeclimb68 - Solo rpt - 24/Oct/10

Faith in friction is all you need.
Tala M - Lead RP - 24/Oct/10 with Ander

Ander - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Tala M

donkster - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10 with jus

Great gear
Spidermunkie - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Dom

TomPR - Lead - 06/Sep/10

simeclimb68 - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/10

Surprisingly easy and secure for E3 I thought. I was worried about the lack of friction in the hot sun but it went fine
sgl0jd - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10

Hidden - TR - 31/Aug/10

got first section after one fall but could not do moves above break.
Dux - TR dnf - 31/Aug/10 with Andy Smith

Got to the break, shitty wet weather so wimped out, set up a top-rope and flew it. Lets hope for better weather tomorrow :/
saalty - TR O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

drewish - 2nd β - 01/Aug/10 with SteveE9

part.tom - TR dnf - 12/Jun/10 with armouredego

armouredego - TR dnf - 12/Jun/10 with Tom Parsons

jowgli - Lead RP - 26/May/10 with Dan Smith

smudge - 2nd rpt - 26/May/10 with Joe Shaw

neil0968 - Lead - 23/May/10

Hidden - 2nd RP - 23/May/10

Went back and led it clean after having a quick blast on chalkstorm, which is far, far easier. Really nice moves above the gear at the top and certainly not escapable, once you're commited there's no going back.
Glyn Davidson - Lead RP - 23/May/10 with Dave WXM, Ali

Ali H - TR - 23/May/10 with Glyn

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead RP - 28/Apr/10 with James Kay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 18/Apr/10 with Dom, Adam

first climb of the year.
Dom Whillans - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with neil, a.crook

Sketchy move in the middle after the break but afterwards no issues.
A Crook - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Dom Stockton, Neil Griffiths

donkster - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10 with trigg

donkster - Lead rpt - 07/Apr/10 with pete buswell

bavarianGaz - TR dog - 07/Mar/10 with DJ

deejmonkey - TR - 07/Mar/10 with Gaz

Ebarnes - 2010

northy1983 - Lead - 2010 with dom

CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Rik Battye

chris sm - Lead β - 19/Sep/09 with Pippa Froggatt

mlmatt - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09

willoates - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Lloyders - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Paddy

A Downing - TR O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Dan & Gaz

smudge - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/09 with Rob

Mr Wild - Lead - 04/Jun/09

1 fall after first break working to second pebble!
mr_cf - TR dog - 24/May/09 with Peter Alderson

Diggler - Lead RP - 23/May/09 with jonah

Excellent problem, felt harder than chalkstorm on first acquaintance. Almost got it clean but peeled off on the rockover on my first attempt. Looking forward to going back and leading it.
Glyn Davidson - TR RP - 10/May/09 with Colin D

Crux rockover from the break took a couple of goes, I was trying to use the wrong smear - onceI used the one closest ot me it went ok.
Si dH - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/09 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with J. Iles-Smith

Shity grey dog. Muffed the crux and nailed it second go. Will be back for the clean ascent
Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead dog - 07/Mar/09 with Mark Duggan

Seconded this about a yr n hlf ago. Lead clean today on first attempt.
Adam Moroz - Lead RP - 31/Jan/09

cymjt - 2009

Hidden - TR dog - 29/Dec/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 29/Dec/08

donkster - Lead RP - 11/Dec/08

Hidden - TR dog - 06/Dec/08

Hidden - TR dog - 29/Nov/08

Hidden - TR dog - 25/Aug/08

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/08 with john

Great technical climb, split into 2 sections. No way I'm ready to lead it yet though!
AndyM-LVB - TR RP - 28/Jun/08 with Brendan Ferguson

Hidden - TR dog - 18/May/08

Hidden - TR dog - 18/May/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/08

alaan - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/08 with Oli

tommytuffa - 2nd - 06/Apr/08 with luketheape

Started snowing.
Oli - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/08 with Alan

Great route. No line? follow the line of prefect smears!
IanJackson - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/08 with Robeverybody

misterb - TR O/S - 17/Feb/08

Steve Banham - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Helen

Mike W - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/08 with foxyloxy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/08

First day out of 2008 in spectacular warm weather. Probably the most scared I've been on a route.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Robin

jamesturnbull - Lead - Feb/08 with aiden

My first E3.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2008 with Brian

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

good but bold, small friends????
dparkes - Lead O/S - 2008 with Graham Parkes

Hidden - Lead - 16/Nov/07

cooper leek - TR O/S - Nov/07 with donk

A route of the poorest quality, escapable throughout, and with no real line. gave up at the mid-hieght break.
Alex Mason - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/07 with Thomas Martin

Hidden - TR dog - 07/Oct/07

5c outdoors ffs !
stevefromstoke - TR dog - 07/Oct/07

Jon Read - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/07 with Turner & Sharrat

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - TR O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/07

Fell off at crux March 2006, first time back on it
tatz45 - Lead β - 14/Jul/07 with Hedvika Toncrova

Hard friction climbing needing the precise moves. Glad didn't onsight! Lead clean after a few practice runs- Nervy. PS - NOT escapable throughout as someone said. Once on the top wall - you're commited, and it's a big fall to the cams.
Max2559 - 20/May/07 with James Morgan

Coel Hellier - Lead - 27/Mar/07

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07 with John Sargeant

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Mar/07

Jus - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/07

Ben1983 - Lead β - 04/Feb/07

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/06

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/06 with Chris Todd

RETICENTFISH - TR - 17/Aug/06 with Mike Watkiss

Col Allott - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Alex Sturrock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Feb/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jan/06

My first E3 onsight. Bold to the break, but then bomber gear for the hard bit. The smeary step up is hard to commit to, but feels OK once you summon up the courage to weight it. Rounded off a lovely crisp November day by watching a perfect sunset over the Staffordshire plain.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05 with Rob, DW2

just one more - TR - 04/Aug/05 with chris nunn

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/05

ArnaudG - 2nd - Jun/05 with Dunc

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Ropeboy - Lead - 20/Nov/04

Brown - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/04

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/04

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2004

Gambit - Lead RP - Sep/03 with Rob, Barney

Colin and Adrian led. Having already bagged Appaloosa I took it easy and seconded.
DubyaJamesDubya - 2nd O/S - 11/May/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/02

Brian Rodgers - Lead RP - 2001 with Phil Authers

tlr - Solo - 2000

bullybones - 2000

Gus - Lead - 2000 with various staffs ministers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/99

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Mar/99 with Zippy & Nick Bullock

Tim Sparrow - 1999 with Rod Eddies

Roget - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/98 with jon

ChrisJD - 2nd - 01/Sep/96 with Rod

robtrooper - 1996

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 18/May/95 with mik

shark - Lead O/S - 1995 with Pete Cole

Hidden - 1995

nai - Lead - 1995

OMSKB - Lead RP - 04/Sep/93

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - May/93

smudge - TR - 1993 with matt

Hidden - TR - 19/Aug/92

Scott McRae - TR O/S - Jun/92 with Steve Jones

J R R Hartley - TR O/S - Sep/91 with Kev Turner

Hidden - Solo O/S - 1991

channinga - 1991

Billg - Lead O/S - Sep/90 with Dave Gregory

OMSKB - TR - Jun/90

Hidden - TR - 29/Apr/90

Rich Kirby - Solo O/S - 24/Apr/90 with Joanne Jowett

andrew300169 - TR - 1990

Babika - 2nd - 09/Jul/89 with Mark Jones

Roget - TR O/S - 01/Jul/89 with jim

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 01/May/88 with Dave Forster, Ken Padgett

andy gittins - 1984

Hidden - TR - 18/Oct/81

Chris Craggs - 1980

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 220
hard E40 of 79
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP