Rockfax Description
8m. The centre of the slab to a move right at half height and a delicate finish. The start is bold but the smeary upper slab is protected by large cams in the break. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1977

Ticklists: BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, 3 Star Graded, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

mshorter 11/Oct Lead β
with steely, dunc
sparkass 11/Oct Lead O/S

A bit eliminate and short to be a three star classic but still good. Quite committing but the climbings easy.

steely 11/Oct TR
owain-1978 11/Oct Lead
dashed 03/Oct Lead RP

Tried this on a rope a couple of years ago and said I'd never lead it, so pretty chuffed.

Hidden 13/Sep Lead O/S
islandlynx 05/Sep Lead O/S

Just like telli but more comitting

Matt77 05/Sep 2nd
with Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell, Shane
GargoyleFeet 25/Aug TR O/S
with Claire
Mike Turner 20/Jun TR
FlavioL1989 30/May 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 30/May Lead O/S

Placed a side runner to protect the lower section of slab. High rockovers on upper slab felt super committing.

with Flavio
Nick_Merriman 10/May 2nd O/S
Fraser hill-casey 10/May Lead O/S
evenL 10/May 2nd
g1m147 26/Apr TR
Hidden 26/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb TR dnf
Hidden 15/Feb TR dog
Hidden 04/Jan 2nd
James-m-h ??/2015 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2015 Lead dnf
Hannes B 04/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Neil C
Jackwd 28/Oct/14 TR dog

Quickly put a rope on this, weather was very damp and very windy! Slipped near the bottom. Found it easy after. Not quite ready for the lead.... yet.

charley 28/Oct/14 TR rpt

damp rock and rather windy conditions made the top moves rather interesting...

with JackD
James Oakes 05/Oct/14 Lead β
Ram MkiV 05/Oct/14 Lead β
with emlyn, noaks, Guy
clairemathews 28/Sep/14 TR dog
Hidden 28/Sep/14 TR O/S
jamesgodwin64 21/Sep/14 2nd β

My mate got on this after doing a S (crazy barstuward), great little route but my god risky and stout.

with John Cooper
Tom.Priestley 21/Sep/14 TR O/S

Seems we went the wrong way at the bottom. Wouldn't like to fall from the top.

scott quinn 21/Sep/14 TR O/S

Was about to lead this glad I didn't the climbing wasn't too hard just very insecure with a fairly bad fall giving you could fluff any move until the pebble

rob 528 ?/Sep/14 Lead G/U
danJBA 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
al123 03/Aug/14 Lead β
with Henry
robman 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/14 TR dog
Hidden 08/Jun/14 TR dog
Stefan_Morris 18/May/14 2nd rpt
Ed morris 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with stefan
Hidden 03/May/14 TR
switch 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Tim H
amccann 30/Mar/14 Lead β
Ed carrigan 02/Feb/14 Lead β

scary but quality route !

theomoore 02/Feb/14 Lead β

Back in the game

robertmctague ??/2014 Lead O/S
simonfilson 25/Nov/13 Lead RP
Ross.Cooper 16/Nov/13 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to upper rockover

Patrick Hill 16/Nov/13 TR O/S
joese7en 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
bwestwood 10/Nov/13 2nd
with pete sargeant
Jordanh031 01/Oct/13 TR O/S
Jordanh031 01/Oct/13 Lead dnf
mikealexpayne 24/Sep/13 TR
Climbster 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Very happy with this, after some dithering to start with.

with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 05/Sep/13 2nd β
with Matt
Alistair Corbett 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S

bloody scary !! great route tho

with Mike
Hidden 18/Aug/13 TR O/S
adamashcroft 10/Aug/13 TR
Hidden 09/Aug/13 -
Mike Turner 21/Jul/13 TR O/S
with Jason Merison, Eddie Webster, Jeremy Hall, Ian Ackerley, Martin Hore
WillDoyle 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
warrygallace ?/Jun/13 TR dnf

couldn't quite make the move above the break where you smear on your left foot, will sort it out next time i'm there.

with dylan (Maria's mate)
Hidden 01/May/13 TR
Ky 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Dave H
RichyBOYY 05/Mar/13 TR O/S
PeteWilson 03/Mar/13 Lead rpt

had top-roped a while ago, what a route! gotta be one of my favourites

with Andrew Graham
Harry Chaplin 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
cal91 02/Mar/13 Lead β
Hidden 17/Feb/13 TR O/S
Rich Kay 17/Feb/13 TR
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead RP
manwithacam 03/Nov/12 Lead

My first E3! Lovely moves, lovely little climb. Could get into this smeary stuff.

with Mike R
Andrew Abraham ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Great route, get those smears working! Some how Steve climbed it without using his feet scary watching!

with Ky, Steve Hammond
richiebongo 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf

backed off it

with Dan Perrot, Jon Didymus
charley 08/Sep/12 TR RP

Lovely route. Conditions were rubbish, rock was too sweaty and was too hot for me. Over balanced on the crux and popped off. Strange thing was though as I was being lowered off I said "I can lead that"!! Steve went up and got it first time. I got it second time, was a little bit cooler by then and felt much more confident on it. Got to come back and attempt the lead.

chumleywarner 08/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 -
dja 22/Aug/12 TR O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/12 TR dog
Hillson 22/Aug/12 TR
with Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson
WillDoyle 23/Jul/12 Lead dnf
matthomas79 21/Jul/12 TR rpt
with Tala M
monsteratt 21/Jul/12 Lead RP

Took a lob off the crux rock over after lots of dithering. Thanks to Jess for the catch! Got straight back on and did it. Very pleased to get it 2nd time. All felt pretty tenuous would like to try in different conditions

with Jess
Hidden ?/Jul/12 2nd dog
Jessica Taylor ?/Jul/12 2nd

'jug-like pebble!' yeah right :-)

kez1 01/Jun/12 TR O/S
with rob rendle
Nick Russell 27/May/12 Lead O/S

First E3 lead! I'm starting to like this slab climbing thing, especially enjoyed those rockovers above the break

SJS 27/May/12 2nd
with Nick
Simon_Letman 16/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 13/May/12 TR
benny_m 13/May/12 TR RP
Hidden 13/May/12 TR dnf
Misha 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with Donna
Hidden 13/May/12 TR dog
pie_eater_pete 06/May/12 Lead O/S
ranga 06/May/12 2nd
saffy 06/May/12 Lead O/S
TM_Horton 04/May/12 TR O/S
TM_Horton 04/May/12 Lead RP

too good to describe! top roped clean (didnt think i could get it) then geared up and got the lead in !!! amazing

with webby
Hidden 03/May/12 TR rpt
The Dangler 03/May/12 TR O/S
jonnybull 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S

A definite step up in my leading level, this needed a pretty cool had to make the irreversible step up onto smears. Steady climbing though.

with Mags
Dan Lane 16/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Felt right on the limit of friction!

with John Crook
jimhall 15/Nov/11 Lead RP

first e3. horrible and fantastic at the same time.

with Paddy
lukehodson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

"Small friends protect"?! Felt pretty bold as a result

Mark Dennison 11/Sep/11 TR


with Dawn
PeteWilson 31/Aug/11 TR O/S

hell of a nice route!

with Andrew Graham
Ky 15/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Danny T
richardr 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
deejmonkey 10/Jul/11 TR
with Gaz
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Jul/11 TR
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
thrutch 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with helen
RachaelB 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Rob Battams
Hammy 04/Jun/11 TR
with Shunt
pipof747 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 31/May/11 Lead

Felt psyched for this so i rushed up it, thought i was off on the crux but managed to levitate up it. Phew.

marcoleptic 25/May/11 TR
galpinos 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sam
MD 21/May/11 TR dog
with Ed
eduardo 21/May/11 TR dog
OMSKB 17/May/11 TR

finished in the dark

with Richard Winfield
Harry Thorpe 01/May/11 2nd O/S


Hidden 17/Apr/11 TR rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/11 TR O/S
Sam Simpson 10/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Mar/11 TR dog
ed woods 16/Mar/11 2nd O/S
gaz.marshall 16/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Eddie
Daymo 06/Mar/11 TR dog
Hidden 06/Mar/11 TR
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd dog
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd
Mark Dennison 12/Dec/10 TR

Planned to lead it but it was a bit greasy - good job cos fell off just on the break (just where you can place the first gear so would have taken a bit of a tumble)

quiffhanger ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
matthomas79 24/Oct/10 Lead RP

My first E3 and what a fantastic climb, lead after plenty of practice and kept the top rope nearby as a just incase measure, not that it would have been much use if I just popped off.

simeclimb68 24/Oct/10 Solo rpt
Tala M 24/Oct/10 Lead RP

Faith in friction is all you need.

with Ander
Ander 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Tala M
donkster 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with jus
Spidermunkie 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Great gear

with Dom
TomPR 06/Sep/10 Lead
simeclimb68 01/Sep/10 2nd rpt
sgl0jd 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Surprisingly easy and secure for E3 I thought. I was worried about the lack of friction in the hot sun but it went fine

Hidden 31/Aug/10 TR
Dux 31/Aug/10 TR dnf

got first section after one fall but could not do moves above break.

saalty 07/Aug/10 TR O/S

Got to the break, shitty wet weather so wimped out, set up a top-rope and flew it. Lets hope for better weather tomorrow :/

with Dave
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
drewish 01/Aug/10 2nd β
with SteveE9
part.tom 12/Jun/10 TR dnf
armouredego 12/Jun/10 TR dnf
jowgli 26/May/10 Lead RP
with Dan Smith
smudge 26/May/10 2nd rpt
with Joe Shaw
neil0968 23/May/10 Lead
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd RP
Glyn Davidson 23/May/10 Lead RP

Went back and led it clean after having a quick blast on chalkstorm, which is far, far easier. Really nice moves above the gear at the top and certainly not escapable, once you're commited there's no going back.

Ali H 23/May/10 TR
with Glyn
gnc760 28/Apr/10 Lead RP
with James Kay
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 18/Apr/10 Lead
with Dom, Adam
Dom Whillans 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S

first climb of the year.

with neil, a.crook
A Crook 18/Apr/10 2nd

Sketchy move in the middle after the break but afterwards no issues.

donkster 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with trigg
donkster 07/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with pete buswell
bavarianGaz 07/Mar/10 TR dog
with DJ
deejmonkey 07/Mar/10 TR
with Gaz
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
northy1983 ??/2010 Lead
with dom
CharlieMack 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
chris sm 19/Sep/09 Lead β
with Pippa Froggatt
mlmatt 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
willoates ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Lloyders 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Paddy
A Downing 13/Jun/09 TR O/S
with Dan & Gaz
smudge 04/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Rob
Mr Wild 04/Jun/09 Lead
mr_cf 24/May/09 TR dog

1 fall after first break working to second pebble!

with Peter Alderson
Diggler 23/May/09 Lead RP
with jonah
Glyn Davidson 10/May/09 TR RP

Excellent problem, felt harder than chalkstorm on first acquaintance. Almost got it clean but peeled off on the rockover on my first attempt. Looking forward to going back and leading it.

with Colin D
Si dH 18/Apr/09 2nd dog

Crux rockover from the break took a couple of goes, I was trying to use the wrong smear - onceI used the one closest ot me it went ok.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
gnc760 07/Mar/09 Lead dog

Shity grey dog. Muffed the crux and nailed it second go. Will be back for the clean ascent

with Mark Duggan
Adam Moroz 31/Jan/09 Lead RP

Seconded this about a yr n hlf ago. Lead clean today on first attempt.

cymjt ??/2009 -
Hidden 29/Dec/08 TR dog
Hidden 29/Dec/08 TR O/S
donkster 11/Dec/08 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Dec/08 TR dog
Hidden 29/Nov/08 TR dog
Hidden 25/Aug/08 TR dog
gregoritos 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with john
AndyM-LVB 28/Jun/08 TR RP

Great technical climb, split into 2 sections. No way I'm ready to lead it yet though!

with Brendan Ferguson
Hidden 18/May/08 TR dog
Hidden 18/May/08 TR dog
Hidden 25/Apr/08 Lead rpt
alaan 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Oli
tommytuffa 06/Apr/08 2nd
Oli 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Started snowing.

with Alan
IanJackson 17/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Great route. No line? follow the line of prefect smears!

with Robeverybody
misterb 17/Feb/08 TR O/S
Steve Banham 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S


with Helen
Mike W 13/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

First day out of 2008 in spectacular warm weather. Probably the most scared I've been on a route.

with Robin
jamesturnbull ?/Feb/08 Lead
with aiden
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S

My first E3.

with Brian
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
dparkes ??/2008 Lead O/S

good but bold, small friends????

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 16/Nov/07 Lead
cooper leek ?/Nov/07 TR O/S
with donk
Alex Mason 21/Oct/07 Lead dnf

A route of the poorest quality, escapable throughout, and with no real line. gave up at the mid-hieght break.

Hidden 07/Oct/07 TR dog
stevefromstoke 07/Oct/07 TR dog

5c outdoors ffs !

Jon Read 15/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Turner & Sharrat
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/07 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/07 2nd
tatz45 14/Jul/07 Lead β

Fell off at crux March 2006, first time back on it

with Hedvika Toncrova
Max2559 20/May/07 -

Hard friction climbing needing the precise moves. Glad didn't onsight! Lead clean after a few practice runs- Nervy. PS - NOT escapable throughout as someone said. Once on the top wall - you're commited, and it's a big fall to the cams.

with James Morgan
Coel Hellier 27/Mar/07 Lead
Somerset swede basher 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with John Sargeant
Hidden 11/Mar/07 TR O/S
Jus 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Ben1983 04/Feb/07 Lead β
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
Hidden 19/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/06 2nd O/S
nathanmanc 03/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
with Mike Watkiss
Col Allott 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Sturrock
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Feb/06 Lead β
Hidden 22/Jan/06 Lead rpt
Andy Clarke 19/Nov/05 Lead O/S

My first E3 onsight. Bold to the break, but then bomber gear for the hard bit. The smeary step up is hard to commit to, but feels OK once you summon up the courage to weight it. Rounded off a lovely crisp November day by watching a perfect sunset over the Staffordshire plain.

with Rob, DW2
just one more 04/Aug/05 TR
with chris nunn
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ?/Jun/05 2nd
with Dunc
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Ropeboy 20/Nov/04 Lead
Brown 06/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
Gambit ?/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Rob, Barney
DubyaJamesDubya 11/May/03 2nd O/S

Colin and Adrian led. Having already bagged Appaloosa I took it easy and seconded.

Hidden 21/Apr/02 2nd O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/2001 Lead RP
with Phil Authers
tlr ??/2000 Solo
bullybones ??/2000 -
Gus ??/2000 Lead
with various staffs ministers
Hidden 24/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Zippy & Nick Bullock
Tim Sparrow ??/1999 -
with Rod Eddies
Roget 18/Oct/98 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 01/Sep/96 2nd
robtrooper ??/1996 -
ste_d 18/May/95 2nd O/S
with mik
shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Pete Cole
Hidden ??/1995 -
nai ??/1995 Lead
OMSKB 04/Sep/93 Lead RP
Chris Reid ?/May/93 Lead O/S
smudge ??/1993 TR
with matt
Hidden 19/Aug/92 TR
Scott McRae ?/Jun/92 TR O/S
with Steve Jones
Rob Davies 01/Apr/92 TR rpt
J R R Hartley ?/Sep/91 TR O/S
with Kev Turner
Rob Davies 01/Jul/91 TR
Hidden ??/1991 Solo O/S
channinga ??/1991 -
Billg ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
OMSKB ?/Jun/90 TR
Hidden 29/Apr/90 TR
Rich Kirby 24/Apr/90 Solo O/S
with Joanne Jowett
andrew300169 ??/1990 TR
Babika 09/Jul/89 2nd
with Mark Jones
Roget 01/Jul/89 TR O/S
with jim
goi.ashmore 01/May/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster, Ken Padgett
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Hidden 18/Oct/81 TR
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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