UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the delicate slab on small but improved holds. The exit is very rounded and avoiding the crack to the left requires will-power especially near the top. A (sensible?) side runner in Yong lowers the grade a couple of notches. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Grit solos hvs -e3

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User Date Notes
WillMancini 13 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Very fun route that feels surprisingly independent low down. At the rock-over you start to feel stupid for not putting a harness on as the crack is very temptingly close. Two bomber pebbles to use. Stupidly fun on the onsight and a good test of willpower keeping out of the crack. Probably even better when its not damp.
Show beta
βeta: Very fun route that feels surprisingly independent low down. At the rock-over you start to feel stupid for not putting a harness on as the crack is very temptingly close. Two bomber pebbles to use. Stupidly fun on the onsight and a good test of willpower keeping out of the crack. Probably even better when its not damp.
PilkingtonD 29 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Just like a really big Boulder problem, gets the grade for how run out it is, not an issue on TR ;)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just like a really big Boulder problem, gets the grade for how run out it is, not an issue on TR ;)
Iain Thow 19 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Never E2, probably not even E1. One balancy move, maybe hardish 4c, with the ever-present option of bottling out into Yong. Try the R arete of the slab, that's more like 5b. No gear, but you could probably jump for the ledge down to the R. Soloed 9.5.93, definitely not the first, as someone did it just before me - probably not the first either.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Never E2, probably not even E1. One balancy move, maybe hardish 4c, with the ever-present option of bottling out into Yong. Try the R arete of the slab, that's more like 5b. No gear, but you could probably jump for the ledge down to the R. Soloed 9.5.93, definitely not the first, as someone did it just before me - probably not the first either.
andy_b135 6 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Nice intro to slabs, try before moving onto chalkstorm. Yong provides a good warm up first.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice intro to slabs, try before moving onto chalkstorm. Yong provides a good warm up first.
ToffeeSockScissorBitch 29 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My first E2, almost browned myself at the top, but felt good to have avoided the left hand crack. worth doing, once
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first E2, almost browned myself at the top, but felt good to have avoided the left hand crack. worth doing, once
GeckoGeek 8 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely climb which is very delicate with a tricky last move to top out. Leave your rack below as you won't be needing it on this one! A worthwhile climb deserving the star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lovely climb which is very delicate with a tricky last move to top out. Leave your rack below as you won't be needing it on this one! A worthwhile climb deserving the star.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 51
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Commander Energy

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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