Rockfax Description
20m. The back of the great rift has a crack/groove in each angle. The long steep groove on the left leads by sustained climbing to an exit through the small gap. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Salt 1969

Ticklists: Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying.

Remyveness 24/Oct Lead
Tall Gecko Hands 03/Oct TR
Barrie Schofield II 20/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug Lead O/S
Becky 20/Aug 2nd RP
Becky 20/Aug Lead dnf
royle883 13/Aug Lead O/S
Robs_Uren 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Lisa
rd20 18/Jul Lead dog
with Roy, Neil
adi bryant 30/May 2nd β
with ian Wignall, Preet
ian Wignall 30/May Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May Lead dog
Danm79 25/Mar TR
ashtond6 08/Nov/14 Lead rpt

In the rain, great fun!

craggybear 14/Sep/14 -
popa2k 14/Sep/14 2nd dog

Really hard work at the first and second crux though this was just out of my own ability level and after several rests. However very satisfying once reaching the top. Took a right straight up and then crossed over to go up on the left VS.

David Stevens 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Christina Holmgrun
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
MikeLell 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Fraser
FraserMcClennan 09/Aug/14 2nd
JP78 27/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/14 2nd O/S
nwakeman 10/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Mark Allwood
cdpuk 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Surprisingly good after a full day of sun to dry out.

with Andrew Gilmartin, Julian Bridle
JulianB 05/Jul/14 2nd
with Andrew Gilmartin, Chris Peka
Dogwood ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Did this by Headtorch after Valkyrie, main difficulties were posed by not being able to see feet but nice climbing

Paul Hy 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Andy S
andy.smythe 23/Jun/14 2nd

this put a big smile on my face

LovelyMrTom 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Really quite sustained. Expected the route to merge with the Diff at the top and ease, don't think it does! Some rather exciting bridging to the exit hole

Ejminee 22/Jun/14 2nd
poigol5043 21/Jun/14 Lead
Ed Hayter ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Rob, Dave
saffy 16/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Rockpiglet 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
StoneChaser 10/Apr/14 TR
with Rocksarge, Rockpiglet
Hidden ??/2014 -
WhipperSnapper 30/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Maxie, Minty
bazilikiukas 30/Dec/13 TR O/S

Maxie described it as anal. I however loved it though it was a bit challenging.

alexpeeeee 30/Dec/13 2nd dog

Terrible, started to get dark, making the top very dark. Heavy use of anti-gravity/assisted dyno.

rd20 19/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Too wet

with Clare
kim.mulji 18/Oct/13 Lead rpt

Partner led up to crux, then I lowered her off. I climbed back up, then led to top.

with Claudina
youwillfindjimbo 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead
Jim Slater 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 18/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Tala M 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Good moves, shame its in such a deep gully as it end up a bit dirty. Would probably get more stars if it wasnt for that.

B4tgirl 05/Jul/13 2nd
with Tony
Blueso 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
Mike W 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
David Robinson 22/May/13 Lead
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
sara n 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S

A squirm!

with Khalid
khalidq 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Hard on the left leg.

Hellflame 25/Jul/12 Lead RP
SPD224 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Chris Wright
Charley Carpenter ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Imogen carpenter
shim ?/Jul/12 -

awesome, technical and pumpy at parts, bit damp a must do route!!!

kim.mulji 29/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Christine Belk
ashtond6 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

never found the thank god hold !

Hidden 23/Jun/12 2nd O/S
williap 20/May/12 Lead
g1m147 18/May/12 Lead
with Mick.
michael burrows 21/Apr/12 Lead dnf

stopped half way up as too wet

saffy 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
saffy 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Will Caesar ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Sam Fishwick, Eddy Barnes
Hidden ??/2012 -
RichardN 26/Nov/11 2nd O/S
jack1996 27/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Did it because it was the only dry bit of rock, until we topped out, bit of a squeeze with the belayer half in as well! Strangely fun?!

with pete
Hidden 27/Oct/11 Lead O/S
nickwhimster 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
swoollock 01/Oct/11 Lead
cragant 01/Oct/11 2nd
HassenBali 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with WR
Jackspratt 12/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Matt250 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd
Babika 02/Jul/11 2nd

Surprisingly technical bridging - good fun and the squeeze was easy by comparison to others!

with Charles Leek
jpmole 11/Jun/11 Lead

nice warm up. fun bridge at the top too!

Hidden 08/Jun/11 2nd
stephen ashworth 08/Jun/11 Lead
with john frost, floss_81
mol 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Jesse
CChafer 29/May/11 Lead O/S
matt0759 24/May/11 2nd
Ben Hollands 19/May/11 Lead O/S

Quite sustained and varied climbing - good route

with Wendy Anderson
ipblake 15/May/11 TR O/S

Bit greasy, but protected from direct rain

iccy 14/May/11 Lead
Happy Wanderer 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ken T
Mrobinson005 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
tgeh 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with dan geh
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead
jacktomlinson 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Let's see...sustained climbing...gentle overhanging, jamming and bridging....did I say sustained? Really rewarding climb! Great! Do it!

with Travis
chrisbrown_023 06/Mar/11 Lead RP
flashpanther ?/Mar/11 Lead
Stuart William 27/Feb/11 2nd dog
with Matt Reynolds
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
jshields 09/Oct/10 Lead
with Liam Weaver, Ed James
Rick Ashton 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with andy gibb
Stuart Hurworth 14/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Difficult move to gain crack to the left of massive block, tried various moves with no sucess - retreated only to watch my seconder - (who'd previously climbed it) take a fall trying same move. One for another day!

Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead
manik 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Tricky moves, but a fun climb. Hard VS, but maybe because it was wet and slimy at the time.

Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Harri777 07/Aug/10 2nd
with jt, Manik
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead dog
twodada 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Duncan
Pete Randall 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Charles
gingerwolf 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Spidermunkie 28/May/10 Lead O/S

Quite nice, HS id say

Glyn Davidson 23/May/10 2nd O/S

This is ascended first via thrutchy laybacking, which is followed by thrutchy chimneying before some thrutchy bridging and a final thrutch through the manhole at the top. Great fun; Id recommend it to any VS leader! =D

with Ali
Ali H 23/May/10 Lead

nice chimney moves at top

with Glyn
Double Knee Bar 22/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Nathan, Iain
jchenoweth 27/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden ??/2010 -
philw ??/2010 -
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ebf 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Quite scary moves for VS, but that was probably something to do with the water running down the rocks! Nice finish once you find the hidden hold.

Bobbyonrock 02/Aug/09 TR rpt
with Sparkles
nathanroberts89 ?/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Solo
ianslade ?/Jul/09 Lead β
with Dave
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
chiragshah5001 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Andrew Lester 12/Mar/09 Lead
baconphat 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Scary jam leading up to final move complimented with some egyptian style footing!

with Andrew Barker
Rachey86 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Sam C
BeccaSnowden 28/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Ended up escaping into raven rock gully. Too wet!

siah 30/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with gavin nixon
hugh2002 26/Jul/08 2nd rpt

A lot easier the second time round. That hidden hold was still waiting right near the top.

with Si & Gavin
siah 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with gav nixen and hugh munro
hugh2002 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Yucky, mucky and a scramble at the top.

with Melanie Butson
dennett 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with calvin dennett
Hidden 14/Jun/08 2nd
hapymike 14/Jun/08 Lead
smolders 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Steve P
stevepotter 08/Jun/08 Lead
jcurley 06/Jun/08 2nd
with John Dickie
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
AndyM-LVB 24/May/08 Lead O/S

Great fun! Plenty of bomber gear placements. Two Stars!

steve2006 ?/May/08 Lead O/S

it started raining so choose this dry climb. I was very nervous doing this, I have dropped my 'Cams' at about half way but still climbed it, a really enjoyable finish.

with david moore (age 10)
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead dog
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
dzlhodgson 04/Nov/07 Lead β
with Eddie Hung
Simon Caldwell 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Superb climbing throughout, a great route.

with Carmen
C.J.Horsfield 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with rachel hopkin
CarolineH 25/Aug/07 TR
AJ007 11/Aug/07 Lead
ebunick 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

nice climb, though very dust at the top.

with Joe
richardhopton 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Glad to finish it, tunnel at top is a blasting hole for the belaying the second. Easyish, lots to hold onto, drifted right half way but brought it back.

with Matt Thombs
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
RichardBilly 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Matt Bishop
flower like ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Chris Williams
Hidden 07/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Mr Wild 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Quite commiting in the chimney near the top, or is my technique just bad?

jchenoweth 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Love and Samian
Hidden 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/06 2nd dog
givemetea ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Tony Yates
Hidden 23/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/06 Lead
tontopink 27/Feb/06 Lead O/S

very tricky on the top slabs

with Iain Woodhouse
studly84 11/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Tough through hole at top very tight for the bigger boys

with thomas poulton
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 TR
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/04 2nd
John Eley ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 22/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Gloomy but worthwhile.

Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
A Crook 11/Aug/00 Lead O/S

wet but dry in places exit through bin lid was tremendous

with David Shepherd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Bobbyonrock ??/2000 TR O/S
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead dnf
with Gaz Haynes
Hidden ??/1995 -
Roget 12/Jun/91 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 Lead
angry pirate ??/1988 Lead
babymoac 31/Jul/83 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, Hidden, SuperLee1985, Imosavageking, Hidden, Becki Moore, Rob Messenger
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 31
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set