28m. A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish leftwards up this. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans (The Dream Team) 1951
Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Roaches HVS Challenge.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|lanky and weak||30/Jun||Lead O/S|
Roaches HVS Challenge #7
Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!
|James Oakes||26/May||Lead O/S|
|Ram MkiV||26/May||2nd O/S||
|Andy Peak 1||25/Mar||Lead O/S||
Much better than valkyrie more moves more interst more intense
17/31. How can 3m of wide crack be such a brutal struggle?
|Alex Winter||21/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
17 on Staffordshire nose. Cramps in forearms. Got on board lots of nosh and water at the bottom.
Finished left rather than through the offwidth.
unexpected crux on the bulging width, fell on size 4 cam
A very good route with good 5b moves threw the roof.
Came to climb but couldn't due to the wet weather, will be returning to finish in better weather
|Bloke on a Rope||03/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
Top class climbing! watch that top crack though it bites!
|Mike W||16/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
|Graeme Hammond||21/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
top crack after the crux of Valkyrie was the hardest bit. Stunning route :)
Good. The overhang felt pretty secure and straightforward with a positive approach; but finished via the normal route, rather than the desperate short crack above the Valkyrie crux. Have previously led Valkrie, so have beta for the easier section.
|Stuart William||11/Mar/12||2nd dog||
yoyoed up to the first overhang rearranged gear and runners and eventually lead through, which was my hardest grit lead sequence to date, avoided the offwidth after this as running short on time. Intend to properly lead the whole route at some stage! Atleast HVS 5a through the first overhang IMO.
|Audrey @ The Castle||10/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
was so psyched up after doing the crux lower down I started to climb the flake of the original in reverse! Traversed round to front of buttress which I think now is not the route. All a bit scrappy, last climb of day.
led the first 5m or so with confidence, then got couldn't get over the crux below the belay platform.
bad arm over weekend which spoiled attempt ,got stuck on first crux going onto flake,just didnt have the power captin,,couldnt get some gear out so abseiled down from top which was my first proper abseil and not the best one to do as quite a bit exposed,bloody scary too, ended up going thru hollybush...gave some onlookers a laugh though !
|Mr Wild||?/May/09||Lead O/S|
A bloody hand-jamming epic! Still awesome though!
Had a real epic, lots of wind and a real battle to get up. Had to rest on gear a good few times. Great climb though, would like to try it on a calmer day.
|Tom Eagle||05/May/08||2nd dog||
|Jon Read||08/Apr/08||Lead O/S||
|Dr Caterpillar||11/Nov/07||2nd dog||
slipped of the polish at the start. Did the crux clean. FUN!
This was the direct direct, not the direct start/indirect. Don Whillans RIP
Ow! A nice enough route until the heinous offwidthy bit at the top. I lost blood and sweat before finally admitting defeat and being lowered off through the hollybush :(
|Si dH||04/Feb/07||2nd dog||
Pathetic attempt. Got my hands mixed up and had to have a rest mid-crux. Also neither of us did the top crack above the Valkyrie crux - it was desperate.
|dan gibson||08/Oct/06||Lead O/S||
|bigie bob||08/Aug/06||2nd O/S|
Tony Yates and Rich Bartlett
|Lawrence Eccles||??/2006||2nd O/S||
|Smelly Fox||03/May/05||Lead G/U||
Lost some skin on the desperate top crack!
|simon kimber||?/Nov/02||Lead O/S||
first route on grit!
Led in error, mistaking it for the original.
Got stuck in the flake for a while.
Dave Price led and I got a nice cinefilm of him