Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Valkyrie Direct** HVS 5b

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[5 points of contact on Valkyrie Direct, hands, feet... chin!, 3 kb]28m. A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish leftwards up this. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans (The Dream Team) 1951

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans.

Photo: 5 points of contact on Valkyrie Direct, hands, feet... chin! © Bloke on a Rope
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 101 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

17/31. How can 3m of wide crack be such a brutal struggle?
Nick Russell - 2nd - 21/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

17 on Staffordshire nose. Cramps in forearms. Got on board lots of nosh and water at the bottom.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

morganator - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Sophie Whyte

Finished left rather than through the offwidth.
gavinpeach - 2nd rpt - 14/May/14 with Andy Finney

soph - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Lindy Smith

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/14

A very good route with good 5b moves threw the roof.
Dale - Lead O/S - Mar/14 with Dan

Hidden - 2014

Came to climb but couldn't due to the wet weather, will be returning to finish in better weather
dtbrad - TR dnf - 21/Oct/13 with George 'Spigz' Duggan, Oliver 'Pinkus' Marcs, Joe 'killer' Strutt, Andy Harris

Dingchav - TR - 21/Oct/13 with dtbrad

Joe Strutt - TR - 21/Oct/13 with dtbrad

Climbster - 2nd β - 03/Sep/13 with Ian

Top class climbing! watch that top crack though it bites!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Matt

rlrs - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/13

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Anna

Mike W - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13

Rewarding fun!
Ky - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Andi Turner

good
northy1983 - Lead - 2013 with andi t

Hidden - 2013

top crack after the crux of Valkyrie was the hardest bit. Stunning route :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Pete Wimbush

Brown - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Andy R

Good. The overhang felt pretty secure and straightforward with a positive approach; but finished via the normal route, rather than the desperate short crack above the Valkyrie crux. Have previously led Valkrie, so have beta for the easier section.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with Liam Talbot

Stuart William - 2nd dog - 11/Mar/12 with Matt Reynolds

Hidden - 2012

DP1977 - Lead O/S - 2012 with David Potter

stephenhartley - 2nd - 27/Sep/11 with Burns

yoyoed up to the first overhang rearranged gear and runners and eventually lead through, which was my hardest grit lead sequence to date, avoided the offwidth after this as running short on time. Intend to properly lead the whole route at some stage! Atleast HVS 5a through the first overhang IMO.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Audrey @ The Castle - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

John Mckeating - 2011

Abevan - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with james walker

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Peter Hart

PeteH - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Naomi Hart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

LittleClimbingMaria - 28/Jun/10

was so psyched up after doing the crux lower down I started to climb the flake of the original in reverse! Traversed round to front of buttress which I think now is not the route. All a bit scrappy, last climb of day.
manwithacam - Lead - 19/Apr/10 with Joris

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Graham Dolman

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Dan Metcalfe

Chrismoore94 - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

philw - 2010

Drew M - Lead - 2010

led the first 5m or so with confidence, then got couldn't get over the crux below the belay platform.
Mike_Gannon - Lead dnf - 30/Oct/09 with Karl Hartwig

bad arm over weekend which spoiled attempt ,got stuck on first crux going onto flake,just didnt have the power captin,,couldnt get some gear out so abseiled down from top which was my first proper abseil and not the best one to do as quite a bit exposed,bloody scary too, ended up going thru hollybush...gave some onlookers a laugh though !
colina - 2nd dnf - 09/May/09 with phil

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - May/09 with Adam Moroz

A bloody hand-jamming epic! Still awesome though!
JCB42 - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/09 with Tom Lister

Had a real epic, lots of wind and a real battle to get up. Had to rest on gear a good few times. Great climb though, would like to try it on a calmer day.
tom.ireson - Lead dog - 14/Mar/09 with Lech Wojas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/09

tomparrott - Lead - 24/Aug/08 with DJ

Tom Eagle - 2nd dog - 05/May/08 with Alban

Cold.
Jon Read - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/08 with Sarah Clough

Stig - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Goi

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with James Rees

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

TCHEKE - 2008

OUCH!
Circus - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Loz

slipped of the polish at the start. Did the crux clean. FUN!
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 11/Nov/07 with Adam

mark s - Lead - 29/Sep/07 with andi t

djking1983 - 2nd - 13/Sep/07 with Andy Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/07

This was the direct direct, not the direct start/indirect. Don Whillans RIP
Mutl3y - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/07 with Tony

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/07

Ow! A nice enough route until the heinous offwidthy bit at the top. I lost blood and sweat before finally admitting defeat and being lowered off through the hollybush :(
climbingpixie - Lead dnf - 07/Feb/07 with Shaun

Pathetic attempt. Got my hands mixed up and had to have a rest mid-crux. Also neither of us did the top crack above the Valkyrie crux - it was desperate.
Si dH - 2nd dog - 04/Feb/07 with Neil Furniss

Skell - Lead O/S - 2007 with Sian

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with AJ

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Oct/06

bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jul/06

givemetea - AltLd dnf - Jul/06 with Tony Yates and Rich Bartlett

Lawrence Eccles - 2nd O/S - 2006 with A. Crook

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/05

Lost some skin on the desperate top crack!
Smelly Fox - Lead - 03/May/05 with Rob Clifton

mark s - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - Lead - 13/Sep/03

unfit - Lead - 2003

first route on grit!
simon kimber - Lead O/S - Nov/02 with Nigel Kitney

five - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jan/01

hdog76 - 2000

Russell Flynn - TR - 1999

Tarquin - 2nd - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/98

robtrooper - 1996

KillingtonT - AltLd - 18/Aug/92 with Mark Drinkwater

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/92

ChrisJD - Lead - 26/Aug/90

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/89 with jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1983

Got stuck in the flake for a while.
stp - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/81

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 1977

rogerskews - AltLd - 1974 with Dane Atkins

Dave Price led and I got a nice cinefilm of him
oldmanofmow - 2nd - 1961

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, dan tipper, Hidden, Hidden, MikeStuart26, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Alaina, Albie, JFraser123, Templeton Adams, Rhythm24, Hidden, Tadams, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, nublet, Hidden, kevin, mlmatt, Mike Parker, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard E10 of 31
E10 of 31
easy E11 of 31
hard HVS19 of 31
HVS10 of 31
easy HVS0 of 31
hard VS1 of 31
VS0 of 31
easy VS0 of 31
hard 5c0 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c0 of 18
hard 5b1 of 18
5b13 of 18
easy 5b3 of 18
hard 5a1 of 18
5a0 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
3 Stars2 of 16
2 Stars12 of 16
1 Star2 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead47 of 101 (46.5%)
Followed30 of 101 (29.7%)
Toproped4 of 101 (4.0%)
Alt Leads5 of 101 (5.0%)
Unknown15 of 101 (14.9%)

'Climbed'48 of 101 (47.5%)
clean O/S37 of 101 (36.6%)
clean β1 of 101 (1.0%)
clean rpt2 of 101 (2.0%)
dogged6 of 101 (5.9%)
dnf7 of 101 (6.9%)