Rockfax Description
28m. A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish leftwards up this. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans (The Dream Team) 1951

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Roaches HVS Challenge.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Louishmouis 31/Jul Lead O/S
lanky and weak 30/Jun Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 07/Jun 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #7

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

James Oakes 26/May Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 25/Mar Lead O/S

Much better than valkyrie more moves more interst more intense

jimxxx ??/2015 -
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
robman 25/Jul/14 2nd O/S
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd

17/31. How can 3m of wide crack be such a brutal struggle?

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

17 on Staffordshire nose. Cramps in forearms. Got on board lots of nosh and water at the bottom.

Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
michael porter
morganator 26/May/14 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 14/May/14 2nd rpt

Finished left rather than through the offwidth.

Andy Finney
friendzone1234 ?/May/14 Lead dog

unexpected crux on the bulging width, fell on size 4 cam

soph 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Lindy Smith
Hidden 13/Mar/14 Lead
Dale ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S

A very good route with good 5b moves threw the roof.

Hidden ??/2014 -
dtbrad 21/Oct/13 TR dnf

Came to climb but couldn't due to the wet weather, will be returning to finish in better weather

George 'Spigz' Duggan, Oliver 'Pinkus' Marcs, Joe 'killer' Strutt, Andy Harris
Dingchav 21/Oct/13 TR
Joe Strutt 21/Oct/13 TR
Climbster 03/Sep/13 2nd β
Bloke on a Rope 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Top class climbing! watch that top crack though it bites!

rlrs 09/Aug/13 Lead dnf
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
pete bridgwood
Chriswallis2 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Mike W 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Ky 07/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Rewarding fun!

Andi Turner
northy1983 ??/2013 Lead


andi t
Hidden ??/2013 -
Graeme Hammond 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

top crack after the crux of Valkyrie was the hardest bit. Stunning route :)

Brown 22/Sep/12 2nd
Andy R
gavinpeach 22/May/12 Lead O/S

Good. The overhang felt pretty secure and straightforward with a positive approach; but finished via the normal route, rather than the desperate short crack above the Valkyrie crux. Have previously led Valkrie, so have beta for the easier section.

Stuart William 11/Mar/12 2nd dog
Matt Reynolds
Hidden ??/2012 -
DP1977 ??/2012 Lead O/S
David Potter
stephenhartley 27/Sep/11 2nd
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/11 Lead

yoyoed up to the first overhang rearranged gear and runners and eventually lead through, which was my hardest grit lead sequence to date, avoided the offwidth after this as running short on time. Intend to properly lead the whole route at some stage! Atleast HVS 5a through the first overhang IMO.

Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Audrey @ The Castle 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Abevan 24/Oct/10 2nd
james walker
NaomiHart 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
PeteH 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
LittleClimbingMaria 28/Jun/10 -
manwithacam 19/Apr/10 Lead

was so psyched up after doing the crux lower down I started to climb the flake of the original in reverse! Traversed round to front of buttress which I think now is not the route. All a bit scrappy, last climb of day.

drcorbasisgod 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Chrismoore94 14/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
philw ??/2010 -
Drew M ??/2010 Lead
Mike_Gannon 30/Oct/09 Lead dnf

led the first 5m or so with confidence, then got couldn't get over the crux below the belay platform.

colina 09/May/09 2nd dnf

bad arm over weekend which spoiled attempt ,got stuck on first crux going onto flake,just didnt have the power captin,,couldnt get some gear out so abseiled down from top which was my first proper abseil and not the best one to do as quite a bit exposed,bloody scary too, ended up going thru hollybush...gave some onlookers a laugh though !

Mr Wild ?/May/09 Lead O/S
JCB42 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S

A bloody hand-jamming epic! Still awesome though!

Tom Lister
tom.ireson 14/Mar/09 Lead dog

Had a real epic, lots of wind and a real battle to get up. Had to rest on gear a good few times. Great climb though, would like to try it on a calmer day.

Lech Wojas
Hidden 07/Mar/09 2nd O/S
tomparrott 24/Aug/08 Lead
deejmonkey 24/Aug/08 2nd
Tom Eagle 05/May/08 2nd dog
Jon Read 08/Apr/08 Lead O/S


Sarah Clough
Stig 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S
goi.ashmore 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
James Rees
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
TCHEKE ??/2008 -
Circus 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S


Dr Caterpillar 11/Nov/07 2nd dog

slipped of the polish at the start. Did the crux clean. FUN!

Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead
djking1983 13/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead
Mutl3y 21/Apr/07 2nd dog

This was the direct direct, not the direct start/indirect. Don Whillans RIP

Hidden 28/Mar/07 Lead dnf
climbingpixie 07/Feb/07 Lead dnf

Ow! A nice enough route until the heinous offwidthy bit at the top. I lost blood and sweat before finally admitting defeat and being lowered off through the hollybush :(

Si dH 04/Feb/07 2nd dog

Pathetic attempt. Got my hands mixed up and had to have a rest mid-crux. Also neither of us did the top crack above the Valkyrie crux - it was desperate.

Neil Furniss
Skell ??/2007 Lead O/S
dan gibson 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
AJ007 07/Oct/06 2nd
bigie bob 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/06 2nd
givemetea ?/Jul/06 AltLd dnf
Tony Yates and Rich Bartlett
Lawrence Eccles ??/2006 2nd O/S
A. Crook
Hidden 03/Sep/05 2nd
Smelly Fox 03/May/05 Lead G/U

Lost some skin on the desperate top crack!

Rob Clifton
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 13/Sep/03 Lead
unfit ??/2003 Lead
simon kimber ?/Nov/02 Lead O/S

first route on grit!

Nigel Kitney
five 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S

Led in error, mistaking it for the original.

Gus ??/2002 -
Hidden 14/Jan/01 Lead
hdog76 ??/2000 -
Russell Flynn ??/1999 TR
Hidden ??/1999 2nd
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??/1996 -
KillingtonT 18/Aug/92 AltLd
Mark Drinkwater
Hidden 18/Jul/92 2nd
ChrisJD 26/Aug/90 Lead
Roget 09/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1983 Lead O/S
stp 16/Aug/81 Lead O/S

Got stuck in the flake for a while.

Chris Terrey 20/Jun/81 Lead
Gerry Dunford
Mark Kemball ??/1977 2nd
rogerskews ??/1974 AltLd
Dane Atkins
oldmanofmow ??/1961 2nd

Dave Price led and I got a nice cinefilm of him

High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set