Rockfax Description
28m. A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish leftwards up this. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans (The Dream Team) 1951

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Roaches HVS Challenge.

Ciderslider 17/Apr 2nd dog

Absolutely seiged this - great lead by Charley

with charley
charley 17/Apr Lead O/S

Brilliant climb but knackering. Didn't like the polished start. Thought the crux would be getting around the roof but that final short off-width was a bloody struggle (literally - lost some skin from my hands and ankle and covered most my gear in blood).

with Mark
Andrew Abraham 12/Apr Lead dog
with Michael Whitehurst
SarahConnor ?/Feb 2nd
with Mark Connor
Louishmouis 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dad
lanky and weak 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #7

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
James Oakes 26/May/15 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with noaks
Andy Peak 1 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Much better than valkyrie more moves more interst more intense

jimxxx ??/2015 -
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
robman 25/Jul/14 2nd O/S
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd

17/31. How can 3m of wide crack be such a brutal struggle?

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

17 on Staffordshire nose. Cramps in forearms. Got on board lots of nosh and water at the bottom.

with Nick
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
morganator 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 2nd rpt
friendzone1234 ?/May/14 Lead dog

unexpected crux on the bulging width, fell on size 4 cam

soph 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 13/Mar/14 Lead
Dale ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S

A very good route with good 5b moves threw the roof.

with Dan
BareBears ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Dale
Hidden ??/2014 -
dtbrad 21/Oct/13 TR dnf

Came to climb but couldn't due to the wet weather, will be returning to finish in better weather

with George 'Spigz' Duggan, Oliver 'Pinkus' Marcs, Joe 'killer' Strutt
Dingchav 21/Oct/13 TR
Joe Strutt 21/Oct/13 TR
with dtbrad
Climbster 03/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Top class climbing! watch that top crack though it bites!

with Matt
rlrs 09/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Aug/13 2nd dnf
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Chriswallis2 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
Mike W 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Ky 07/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Rewarding fun!

with Andi Turner
northy1983 ??/2013 Lead


with andi t
Hidden ??/2013 -
Graeme Hammond 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

top crack after the crux of Valkyrie was the hardest bit. Stunning route :)

Brown 22/Sep/12 2nd
with Andy R
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
Stuart William 11/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Matt Reynolds
Hidden ??/2012 -
DP1977 ??/2012 Lead O/S
with David Potter
stephenhartley 27/Sep/11 2nd
with Burns
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/11 Lead

yoyoed up to the first overhang rearranged gear and runners and eventually lead through, which was my hardest grit lead sequence to date, avoided the offwidth after this as running short on time. Intend to properly lead the whole route at some stage! Atleast HVS 5a through the first overhang IMO.

Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Audrey Seguy 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Abevan 24/Oct/10 2nd
with james walker
NaomiHart 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
PeteH 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
LittleClimbingMaria 28/Jun/10 -
manwithacam 19/Apr/10 Lead

was so psyched up after doing the crux lower down I started to climb the flake of the original in reverse! Traversed round to front of buttress which I think now is not the route. All a bit scrappy, last climb of day.

with Joris
drcorbasisgod 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
CMoore 14/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
philw ??/2010 -
Drew M ??/2010 Lead
Mike_Gannon 30/Oct/09 Lead dnf

led the first 5m or so with confidence, then got couldn't get over the crux below the belay platform.

colina 09/May/09 2nd dnf

bad arm over weekend which spoiled attempt ,got stuck on first crux going onto flake,just didnt have the power captin,,couldnt get some gear out so abseiled down from top which was my first proper abseil and not the best one to do as quite a bit exposed,bloody scary too, ended up going thru hollybush...gave some onlookers a laugh though !

with phil
Mr Wild ?/May/09 Lead O/S
JCB42 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S

A bloody hand-jamming epic! Still awesome though!

with Tom Lister
tom.ireson 14/Mar/09 Lead dog

Had a real epic, lots of wind and a real battle to get up. Had to rest on gear a good few times. Great climb though, would like to try it on a calmer day.

with Lech Wojas
Hidden 07/Mar/09 2nd O/S
tomparrott 24/Aug/08 Lead
with DJ
deejmonkey 24/Aug/08 2nd
with Tom
Tom Eagle 05/May/08 2nd dog
with Alban
Jon Read 08/Apr/08 Lead O/S


with Sarah Clough
Stig 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Goi
goi.ashmore 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with James Rees
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
TCHEKE ??/2008 -
Circus 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S


with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 11/Nov/07 2nd dog

slipped of the polish at the start. Did the crux clean. FUN!

with Adam
mark s 29/Sep/07 Lead
with andi t
djking1983 13/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead
Mutl3y 21/Apr/07 2nd dog

This was the direct direct, not the direct start/indirect. Don Whillans RIP

with Tony
Hidden 28/Mar/07 Lead dnf
climbingpixie 07/Feb/07 Lead dnf

Ow! A nice enough route until the heinous offwidthy bit at the top. I lost blood and sweat before finally admitting defeat and being lowered off through the hollybush :(

with Shaun
Si dH 04/Feb/07 2nd dog

Pathetic attempt. Got my hands mixed up and had to have a rest mid-crux. Also neither of us did the top crack above the Valkyrie crux - it was desperate.

with Neil Furniss
Skell ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Sian
dan gibson 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 07/Oct/06 2nd
with Dan
bigie bob 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/06 2nd
givemetea ?/Jul/06 AltLd dnf
with Tony Yates and Rich Bartlett
Lawrence Eccles ??/2006 2nd O/S
with A. Crook
Hidden 03/Sep/05 2nd
Smelly Fox 03/May/05 Lead G/U

Lost some skin on the desperate top crack!

with Rob Clifton
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 13/Sep/03 Lead
unfit ??/2003 Lead
simon kimber ?/Nov/02 Lead O/S

first route on grit!

with Nigel Kitney
five 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with MS
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S

Led in error, mistaking it for the original.

Gus ??/2002 -
Hidden 14/Jan/01 Lead
hdog76 ??/2000 -
Russell Flynn ??/1999 TR
Tarquin ??/1999 2nd
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??/1996 -
KillingtonT 18/Aug/92 AltLd
with Mark Drinkwater
Hidden 18/Jul/92 2nd
The Reaper 05/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/90 Lead
Roget 09/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden ??/1983 Lead O/S
stp 16/Aug/81 Lead O/S

Got stuck in the flake for a while.

Chris Terrey 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
Mark Kemball ??/1977 2nd
rogerskews ??/1974 AltLd
with Dane Atkins
oldmanofmow ??/1961 2nd

Dave Price led and I got a nice cinefilm of him

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, themattyshep, matt davies, SenzuBean, DanChad, OllyT, RyanOsborne, khalidq, SuperLee1985, dan tipper, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Alaina, Albie, JFraser123, Rich Kay, Rhythm24, Hidden, Tadams, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, nublet, Hidden, kevin, mlmatt, Mike Parker, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set