Rockfax Description
14m. The leaning corner (as for Elegy), and the awkward wide crack above, give an unsatisfying struggle. Bridge the lower section and swim up the final bit - all very graunchy. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans 1951

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out.

zcsharp 18/Oct Lead O/S

Was gonna try Elegy but chickened out onto this instead.

with Danish
steely 11/Oct 2nd O/S
owain-1978 11/Oct Lead O/S
Kemics 08/Sep Lead G/U

first VS i've fallen off in a long time. The first bit was fine with fist jams. Got up into the bulge. Wedged a knee in but the crack was too wide for my fist. Fell off. Second time managed to grovel up and get a knee. Very undignified. Obviously missed a trick.

with Mel
Hidden 06/Aug -
Hidden 06/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul Lead dog
IainMay 05/Jul 2nd O/S
mattshort 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Paul
Guss1 26/Jun 2nd O/S
sorchawilliams 26/Jun 2nd O/S
Will Murphy 10/Jun Lead
with Cal, Andy
Callum van Werkhoven 10/Jun Lead O/S
with Will Murphy
Tom.Priestley 06/Jun Lead O/S

Have previously seconded Elegy. Felt hard for VS!

FlavioL1989 27/May Solo O/S
James Oakes 26/May 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May Lead O/S
with noaks
BareBears 15/May Lead β
with Kay
Hidden 02/May 2nd
DanChad 01/May 2nd O/S

Did a heel hook to get past the overhang. Spent half the time on the crux with my foot above my head. Very strenuous.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 01/May Lead

Fell off this about 20 years ago, so glad to have led this one.

Andrew Wilson 19/Apr Lead O/S
Mark Grist 18/Apr Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 18/Apr 2nd O/S
noemie5438 18/Apr 2nd O/S
with Liam
PeteWilson 12/Apr Lead

awkward and cold, and just about the windiest ive ever bothered to climb in. I reckon its satisfying udgery tho :)

Senna 12/Apr 2nd O/S
Tom McCabe 07/Mar Lead O/S

Had a quick feel of the move onto Elegy, glad I didn't get further! Swimming is right, the top section passed by in a flash.

Mike W ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
ashtond6 08/Nov/14 2nd

Awesome, even more fun in the wet

Katsmiff 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Some wide bridging required to get over the first bit. But pretty straight forwards after that.

with Justyn Philpot
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Passmore
andy_e 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Gallimore
TP 24/Aug/14 Lead
with Ben H, Frank A
Hidden 11/Aug/14 Lead
soph 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
gpcomps 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead

22/31. Previously done the lower section to get to Elegy. Just a bit awkward.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S

22 on Staffordshire nose. Roaches routes finished.

with Nick
poigol5043 06/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
alaster tonge 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Assad Lahlou
morganator 26/May/14 2nd
soph 26/May/14 Lead rpt
Ky 21/May/14 2nd O/S
with Pete Bridgewood
amccann 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Went to look at elegy. It looked hard so finished up this.

with micki
soph 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Lindy Smith
MSchobitz 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
alexm198 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Led after Ed got spooked on the crux and wanted lowering off, leaving two cams in the climb (the highest one just below the pull onto the ledge from which Elegy breaks left.) Pulled the ropes through and led it clean! Good value for VS...

ecromwell 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Tried to lead, got stuck on crux... lowered down on a shit hex. Scary times.

friendzone1234 ?/Feb/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Kirill 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with EeFu
EeFu 14/Sep/13 2nd dog
Climbster 05/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
sputnik 26/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Vaska
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S
TP 03/Aug/13 Lead
with Dave M, Helen F
sputnik 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Vaska
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
snapperdan 25/Jun/13 Lead dog
Double Knee Bar 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
kirsten 05/May/13 2nd

obnoxious struggle - wish I'd have realised there was a great sounding SLAB to tHe left, would have been a whole lot more pleasant.

with Michael
Tony Holdsworth 05/May/13 Lead O/S

A real grunt of a route.

with Nick Mitchell
Siyfion 05/May/13 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 02/May/13 Lead O/S
friendzone1234 ?/May/13 -
monsteratt 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Following hale storm so a little damp in places.

with Sarah, Kate
Daniel Heath 20/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Had a look at Elegy but didn't fancy it.

giuly 07/Apr/13 2nd
with Ben Abell, Neil Shephard
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
kate tarrant ?/Apr/13 2nd
tzettle ??/2013 -
robertmctague ??/2013 Lead
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy R
puppythedog 09/Aug/12 Lead dnf

This kicked my 4R5E. An actual trad fall. I fell roughly 15feet up onto good gear I just didn't ever get my feet sorted and couldn't stick a jam.

with Julia
Thinker01 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becster
becster 25/Jul/12 2nd
Anthony Dixon 22/Jul/12 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with martin broadhurst
WillDoyle 21/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mike.rigby 26/May/12 TR O/S
Aufton 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andy Hawkins
Si dH 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt

Went up to do Elegy but the psyche wasn't there, feeling hungvover & weak so decided to leave it for another day.

with Olly
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Peakpdr 25/Mar/12 -

Should be 5a

jack1996 20/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with tom s
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Mike Warner ??/2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Dave89 27/Nov/11 Lead rpt

I think I seconded Dan up this years ago, but don't really remember

friendzone1234 19/Oct/11 2nd β
shafiq lalloo 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
timmyhobby 16/Oct/11 Lead
minirollsrule 03/Oct/11 Lead O/S

took a while to build up to committing to the move

Mitch1990 25/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Awkward and hold's look desiving from the ground.

darlolad 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 09/Jul/11 Lead
with Anna
CurlyStevo ?/Jul/11 Lead

A good route. Not sure it's super high in the VS grade, definately strangely satisfying rather than nasty. Good practice for offwidthing higher up 'reasonably' well protected.

with Kevin
thomasadixon 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Was going to try Elegy but couldn't work out the move/didn't want to...will have to come back!

with Alan
Reaver2k 19/Jun/11 2nd
andyjirvin 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Led this before we had a go at Elegy. Felt like quite a hard lead but there's good gear. the move out at the roof/bulge is good. Thrutched up the crack but after falling off Elegy finished up Bulger again and actually you can climb outside the crack in quite good style!

Double Knee Bar 09/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Colin, Iain
Emma-Louise Anderson 29/May/11 Lead O/S

What a route! The moves through the overhang felt hard,the crack above was an unbelievable struggle. I really thought I had got myself completely stuck.

danielwalker716 26/Apr/11 2nd
James_D 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with Esther
Mr G 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
bri 17/Apr/11 2nd dnf

couldn't get over the overhang because of issues with reaching the cam. Still def need more work on my arms.

with Mr G
lewk_c 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Phil Saunders
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
dan-8990 20/Jan/11 Lead dog
with AO
The Green Giant 20/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Interesting to say the least!

with Dan with the van
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Spidermunkie 13/Oct/10 2nd rpt
tri-nitro-toulumne 21/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Rich Guest
Spidermunkie 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

I thought the crack was gona eat me!

Dan Leach 30/Aug/10 Lead
d_meacher 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
nadeem 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Meant to climb elegy but lost all psych and finished up. Will be back for elegy.

with Tom Foote
dean79 25/Jul/10 2nd
with alan watson
spragglerocks 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
DaNo123 10/Jul/10 2nd
with martin
Different Steve 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Emma Hawkins
Batt 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice bridging, awkward move then some 'good' wriggling!

Rob Davies ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Phil Ashton
wirralclimber1984 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with james
daveyji ?/Jun/10 Lead

Crack was thrutchy and hard, lost losts of skin. Rained midway up just to make it better!!

with Ed
tomB 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tim Griffin
szelest 19/May/10 TR O/S
willoates 16/May/10 Lead rpt

after failing to move out onto elegy

with James, Chrissy
Garron 15/May/10 2nd
chrisbussell 20/Apr/10 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
saalty ?/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with eddy
cooper leek 16/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with donk
donkster 16/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with ben
GF ??/2010 -
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
Nature_Boy12689 20/Nov/09 Lead O/S
donkster 17/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Matt Bennett 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Mr. K 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
nathanroberts89 07/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Really enjoyable. Loved the layback and the leg bar in the upper crack. Done in pitch black with a headtorch.

krikoman 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good and hard

Peeley.b 23/Aug/09 2nd

A bloody struggle through the crux!

neilpotter 31/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with lawson david
BeccaSnowden 28/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Dissapointed that I failed on this. Couldn't get round the overhang - couldn't reach the good holds and it was slightly damp. Took a bad fall with a painful collision with the ledge! Ouch!

with Alex
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
cooper leek ?/Jul/09 2nd
with crucko
peaches69 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with sarah
JWB 14/Jun/09 Lead rpt

What a horror show this climb is!! The 2nd time I have had to do it because I couldnt commit to the step around the bulge to get onto Elergy!! Next time........

with Mark Anstey
smudge 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Rob
stevemcg 08/May/09 2nd
with Glyn
Glyn Davidson 08/May/09 Lead O/S

Done at night with a head torch. Quite a struggle requiring all manners of non-descript "Technique", high in the grade, fantastic little route. Steve did well to get up this.

with steve mcg
willoates ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Ralphie_coombs 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with raf richard
James Moyle 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with T.Moores
donkster 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
jepotherepo ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Helen
jonnie3430 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Hannah
RCrockford 07/Mar/09 2nd
with Chris F
thrutch ??/2009 Lead O/S

What a thrutchy, nasty place to be.

with helen
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Tom Eagle ??/2009 Lead O/S


with Dave Greenald
HamishD 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with sergei
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
gazfellows 20/Sep/08 2nd
with shaun d
Ian Broome 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 25/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/May/08 2nd O/S
Karlos 09/May/08 Lead O/S

Quite tough just getting into the crack, although the scarey bit is over quite soon.

with Ben, Vicki
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Lloyders 12/Apr/08 Lead O/S
brew_guru 12/Apr/08 2nd O/S

everything i dislike climbing!!

gaz_jones 12/Apr/08 2nd dog
lukewalsh ?/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden 08/Mar/08 2nd
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
TCHEKE ??/2008 -
Hidden 05/Nov/07 Lead
SamStokes 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Ha, ha what an introduction to gritstone climbing!

Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
dfbpdave 08/Sep/07 Lead dog
PanzerHanzler 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

What an excellent thructh and udge once established in the crack - one of the best climbs this year!

with Alex
riddle ?/Sep/07 2nd
with Mike UKC
Si dH 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Something of a struggle! Hardest VS Ive done for ages, or maybe I was just climbing badly after a 6 week break...

with Neil Furniss
Andy Clarke 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ralph
JWB 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/07 2nd
donkster 20/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with mudders
Laurence Everitt 02/May/07 Lead O/S
with clare
kendogcatchy ?/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Lead
Mr Wild 21/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Wow,way more difficult than expected

with Pete
flyboy86 ?/Mar/07 Lead

Had a few 'momments' on this climb, interrupted only by my 'climbing turrets', didnt enjoy it at all!

with Nick (kendogcatchy)
Oli 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Lee
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Hidden 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
andy tetsill ?/Jul/06 TR
with Wrekin MC
tatz45 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Marvino 05/Jun/06 Lead dog

Had a real battle with this. Think I got too wedged in the crack.

with Darren
Hidden 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
david morse 01/Jun/06 2nd
with dave pritchard
Chesh 15/Apr/06 Lead
with Phil B
jackiechimp ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden 28/Aug/05 2nd
lost.arrow 15/Jul/05 -
with Isabelle Membrez
lost.arrow 11/Apr/05 -
Mark A Humphries 19/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with gary wood
Hidden ??/2005 -
Andrew Barker ??/2005 Lead O/S

Couldn't figure out the moves onto the Elegy slab so finished up this instead.

Andrew Abraham ??/2005 2nd

Nick Cox led after inspecting Ellergy

jimshrimp ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Chesh ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S

What a struggle!

with Mick B
Hidden 25/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 21/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Ian Nightingale
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Lev 18/Oct/03 2nd O/S
with Spen
northy1983 ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S


with dom
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox 08/May/03 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead
shoulders 14/Sep/02 Lead
with claire, tanya
Hidden 16/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Reds 12/May/02 Lead O/S
with debbie
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 24/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
dan gibson ??/2002 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 14/Jan/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 2nd
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
philhilo ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 2nd
Gus ??/2000 Lead
bullybones ??/2000 -
Hidden 08/Jul/99 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 10/Apr/99 Lead O/S


with Nicky
Hidden ??/1999 -
CrashMat Rob 04/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
skygodley 02/May/98 Lead O/S
antroy 10/Apr/98 Lead


DavidEvans 15/Feb/98 2nd
with William Wilson, James Kay, adam ellwood
Hidden 13/Jun/96 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob ??/1996 Lead O/S
brady 06/Jun/95 Lead
with John Cameron
nai ??/1995 Lead
Duncan Bourne 02/Jul/94 Lead O/S

Easier than I thought

with E Allcock
Jon Read ?/Jan/93 Lead O/S
Roget 04/Jun/91 Solo O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
babymoac 02/Sep/89 Lead
with Sid & Sarah
Dave Musgrove 07/May/89 Solo
Iain Thow 04/May/89 2nd
with Rob Ivens
charlesmfrench 22/Sep/85 2nd O/S
Simon2005 ??/1984 2nd
with KevG
andy gittins ??/1984 -
stp 08/Jun/83 Solo O/S
Mike Owen 12/Sep/81 -
with Gavin Peat
Ken Taylor 15/Apr/81 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jun/78 Lead

Rare success on an awkward crack

with Angus McLean, Graham Wilson
Gordon Stainforth 30/Apr/77 Lead
with Ian Carter
Dave Musgrove 12/Mar/77 Lead
with Bob Knapton
Hidden 08/May/76 2nd
rogerskews ??/1974 -
Rog Wilko ?/May/71 2nd
with ??
RichardMc 26/Mar/68 Lead O/S
oldmanofmow ??/1957 -

A rubbish climb only worthwhile if you want to lose weight its that strenuous. Or maybe I did it wrong!!

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, markblair, Becki Moore, MattT88, nublet
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 62
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set