Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >
 
Dark Side of the Sun** E1 5b, 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Black Sunshine
 
Nassty Spider >>
40m. An excellent new route on superb rock and with good protection. Start 3m right of Black Sunshine at an overhang leading to a thin crack underneath a gap in the overhangs at 10m. Surmount the overhang and climb the crack to just below a bulge. Traverse left a couple of moves to a flake-crack leading up to the overhang forming the left side of the gap. Pull rightward round the overhang with conviction and into the gap. Bridge this to jugs and continue to the corner on Black Sunshine. At the top of this take a direct line on excellent rock to a small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and finish up a delightful prickly rib. © ROCKFAX
A superb route on excellent rock with good protection. Start 3m right of Black Sunshine at an overhang leading to a thin crack underneath an obvious gap in the overhangs at 10m. Surmount the overhang and climb the crack to just below a bulge. Traverse left a couple of moves to an obvious flake crack leading up to the overhang forming the left side of the gap. Pull rightward round the overhang with conviction and into the gap. Bridge this to jugs and continue to the corner on Black Sunshine. At the top of this take a direct line on excellent rock to a small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and finish up a delightful prickly rib.
Simon Laker/Pete Finklaire 12/Jun/2010
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Andy J

Nexonen - AltLd dog - 20/Jul/14 with Sophie

Gavdee1 - 2nd - 20/Jul/14 with Kev

Choose your own adventure at the top, with a loose top out which was worth E2 for me.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Gavin Dee

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/14

1 pitch
3 Names - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/14 with Ed Bulman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14

paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14 with tom thorne

Good effort to Bubbles on this - tricky climbing up to and over the bulge but after that it is pretty mellow but a little loose. Great climbing.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd - 04/May/14 with Bubbles

funsized - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Tony

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Martin Haworth

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Dan S

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/13

P2
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Bede West

Good first pitch, but the second a little loose near the top.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Ian Moodie

mattc - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13

AlexD - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/12 with Ed

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with helen gibson

thought the bottom part was hard for grade and upper section vs but not that great with loose top out.
Helen Gibson - 2nd - 20/Sep/12 with dan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/12

climbed in a single pitch
givemetea - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Ann Chong

cooperman - Lead - 25/Jun/12 with Greg Foster

P1 and seconded with AlexD on 04 Oct 12.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Nick Williams

very good rock all the way.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Mick Ward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, Andy Chubb, Ceridwen, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 24
hard E20 of 12
E20 of 12
easy E21 of 12
hard E12 of 12
E17 of 12
easy E12 of 12
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS0 of 12
3 Stars0 of 12
2 Stars4 of 12
1 Star6 of 12
0 Stars1 of 12
Bag of .....1 of 12
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Style of ascent

Lead12 of 27 (44.4%)
Followed6 of 27 (22.2%)
Alt Leads9 of 27 (33.3%)

'Climbed'5 of 27 (18.5%)
clean O/S20 of 27 (74.1%)
clean rpt1 of 27 (3.7%)
dogged1 of 27 (3.7%)