Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >
 
Dark Side of the Sun** E1 5b, 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Black Sunshine
 
Nassty Spider >>
40m. An excellent new route on superb rock and with good protection. Start 3m right of Black Sunshine at an overhang leading to a thin crack underneath a gap in the overhangs at 10m. Surmount the overhang and climb the crack to just below a bulge. Traverse left a couple of moves to a flake-crack leading up to the overhang forming the left side of the gap. Pull rightward round the overhang with conviction and into the gap. Bridge this to jugs and continue to the corner on Black Sunshine. At the top of this take a direct line on excellent rock to a small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and finish up a delightful prickly rib. © ROCKFAX
A superb route on excellent rock with good protection. Start 3m right of Black Sunshine at an overhang leading to a thin crack underneath an obvious gap in the overhangs at 10m. Surmount the overhang and climb the crack to just below a bulge. Traverse left a couple of moves to an obvious flake crack leading up to the overhang forming the left side of the gap. Pull rightward round the overhang with conviction and into the gap. Bridge this to jugs and continue to the corner on Black Sunshine. At the top of this take a direct line on excellent rock to a small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and finish up a delightful prickly rib.
Simon Laker/Pete Finklaire 12/Jun/2010
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 15 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Dan S

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/13

P2
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Bede West

Good first pitch, but the second a little loose near the top.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Ian Moodie

mattc - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13

AlexD - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/12 with Ed

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with helen gibson

thought the bottom part was hard for grade and upper section vs but not that great with loose top out.
Helen Gibson - 2nd - 20/Sep/12 with dan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/12

climbed in a single pitch
givemetea - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Ann Chong

cooperman - Lead - 25/Jun/12 with Greg Foster

P1 and seconded with AlexD on 04 Oct 12.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Nick Williams

very good rock all the way.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Mick Ward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andy Chubb, Ceridwen, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 17
hard E20 of 8
E20 of 8
easy E21 of 8
hard E11 of 8
E14 of 8
easy E12 of 8
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS0 of 8
easy HVS0 of 8
3 Stars0 of 9
2 Stars2 of 9
1 Star6 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....1 of 9
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