Rockfax Description
12m. A mini-Mincer and popular, though this one is easier for the tall. From the foot of the odd perched flake, climb the grungy groove to the overhang and layback rightwards round this to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Roaches HVS Challenge.

steely 15/Oct Lead
owain-1978 15/Oct 2nd
owain-1978 14/Oct Lead O/S

Sport climbed it on Iain's gear after 'The great fall' of 2015.

Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
Scooter Young 03/Aug Lead
Rob Rocket 03/Aug 2nd
Robaduck 14/Jun Lead dog
Will Murphy 10/Jun Lead
with Cal, Andy
Callum van Werkhoven 10/Jun 2nd O/S
with Will Murphy
FlavioL1989 07/Jun Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #11

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun 2nd

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
James Oakes 26/May 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May Lead O/S
with noaks
gazfellows 05/Apr Lead

Harder than it looks!!

with Nic
John Higgs 21/Mar Lead O/S

On some of Al's gear, after he gave up.

kermit_uk 15/Mar Lead O/S
with Michelle
rob 528 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
Julesthe1st 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Laura, Paul Wolf
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
fuzzysheep01 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Naomi Walker
p.j.deacon 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
67hours 26/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Matt Cookie
Matt Cooke 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with George Cave
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd

19/31. Short and sweet, a good route.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

19 on Staffordshire nose. Nice little route.

with Nick
TGreen 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 15/Jul/14 2nd dog
jack 9895 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
theomoore 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Roisin
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
WillDoyle ?/Jun/14 Lead
morganator 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Ky 21/May/14 2nd O/S
with Pete Bridgewood
mickd 19/May/14 2nd
Peakphil 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Pleasant little route, if slightly unbalanced.

with Bernie
Hidden 19/Apr/14 TR rpt
bede.west 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S

bit short yes 1 star.

wazzalad20 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Hard moves out of the roof!

HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
switch 29/Mar/14 Lead
with John S
soph 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd dog
jon22 16/Mar/14 Lead
with ste boote
dannyboy83 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Tophe 08/Mar/14 2nd β
with Dan
Hidden ??/2014 -
ChrisBrooke 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Nick Barratt
Andy Fielding 08/Sep/13 Lead
Dale ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Very good, Found this quite hard, powerful.

with dave
rob.grafton 27/Jul/13 -
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 14/Jul/13 2nd
with steve
Lukeh121 ?/Jul/13 Lead dog
hellboundblr 29/Jun/13 2nd
with Adrian Jones
adrianj 29/Jun/13 Lead
Tom Last 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Fine once you work it out, good short pitch.

with Chester
djromberg 04/May/13 -
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
cem 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hannes B 04/Apr/13 2nd
efrance24234 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Morgan P 25/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Was feeling good after Commander Energy and lead this. The crux took a few tries and reverses to the corner to rest to get but got it clean.

pearson9596 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Pete Hiscox
Hidden ??/2013 -
fifth ??/2013 -
georgeevans88 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
aipattison 26/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt
willoates 08/Oct/12 Lead β

on steve's gear for convenience

with Steve
Steeve 08/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy R
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd dog
bullybones 28/Aug/12 Lead
with Neil
northy1983 ?/Aug/12 Lead

short but sweet

with andi t
nepsoi999 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with sophie
Thinker01 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becster
becster 25/Jul/12 2nd
Double Knee Bar 05/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Bloody hard work. Bomber gear. Good job as I fell on it 4 or 5 times. One to come back to.

treg 26/May/12 Lead dog

Great climb. Had to sit on the rope after a number of failed attempts at committing to the crux and not finding the rest quite as restful as I needed. Once I remembered to actually lay back into my layback, the feet just stuck to the lovely gritty wall.

with Beka
helenstuart 05/May/12 Lead O/S

Brill climb

with Mike
climbinmunkey 05/May/12 2nd β

Short but very involving! Did this after The Mincer and found the 'Mincing' part on this harder!

with Helen
mtempest 24/Apr/12 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 24/Apr/12 Lead

A bit bold to get to the roof - the only pro I could find was a couple of nuts behind a creaky flake. (Apparently there used to be more flakes!). Couldn't stretch to the good foot holds first time on the crux but managed somehow to reverse for a rest and re-appraisal. Got it second time. Brought back happy memories of the crux on the top pitch of Thin Wall Special!

Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Dave89 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Brian
Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 16/Oct/11 -
with Stu Sherwood
Mr Tickle 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
eeonz 21/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/11 AltLd
robman 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
andybirtwistle 12/Jul/11 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
andyjirvin 14/Jun/11 Lead dog

One fall and a couple of rests! The fall was while I was talking and just trying to get into a resting position - completely unnecessary! Foot slipped off. After that had to compose myself and try the crux a couple of times. Bomber gear in the undercut. Not too bad when you actually commit and go for it - high feet help. Would come back to do clean.

jalien 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

First HVS. Almost a one-move-wonder; had a bit of a faff before committing to the move out to the corner. Pity it's a bit short.

paul horabin 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
chris ebbutt 21/May/11 Lead
with Emma
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
Emma-Louise Anderson 19/May/11 Lead dog

Worked out a good sequence for my feet but couldn't commit first time. Rested on the bomber gear, retreated to the ledge and then smashed it! : ) Awesomeness.

galpinos 11/May/11 2nd
with Sam
Col Kingshott 07/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
tompilgrem 27/Apr/11 2nd
with Dad
bobpilgrem 27/Apr/11 Lead dog

Had to lower from roof to ponder the move around nose.Reclimbed and finished clean- annoyed to miss out on the on sight- but also pleased that I eventually got on with it !

with Bob/Tom
edmitchell 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf
emmarowe 24/Apr/11 2nd
Neil D 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Nadeem Rahim, Beth Hodgett
Betha. 22/Apr/11 2nd dog

fell trying to get gear out at the jug under the overhang

bnewman 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Thin gear to start. Almost fell off the crux.

with Laurie, Amelia
lukebowman551 23/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Craig Shelley
Craig Shelley 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
scotty h 04/Mar/11 TR dnf

We only had an attempt at it because we were right by it and figured why not.

with Steve Hammond, Lewis Mansell
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Steff007 ??/2011 2nd O/S
jamesgodwin64 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with chris fox
mark_chal 14/Nov/10 Lead O/S
rosieposey14 13/Nov/10 2nd
with mark challoner
Cossar 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Garron 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
mike4563 22/Sep/10 2nd RP

Both had 2 goes at leading it, Ben got it on his second go.

with Ben Woody Woodward
jshields 12/Sep/10 Lead
with Gavin
gavinpeach 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
GF 30/Aug/10 Lead
Spidermunkie 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Stretch for a rockover using the undercut above. Who got the 2 wires stuck in it though?

JPGR 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Kyle Rance 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Louise Grimster
Hidden 07/Aug/10 2nd dnf
juza 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Two star climb!!!

with Gordon P
pord 05/Aug/10 2nd dnf
with Danny, John Parton, Justin
jaxxman 01/Aug/10 2nd dog
with John (koflack)
hellboundblr 31/Jul/10 2nd
with John Carlin
adamwesthead 24/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Hoult, Zeb
zebster 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Nick, Adam
JEP 04/Jul/10 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jul/10 2nd

Done this before, but couldn't lead it

with Phil Ashton
Andy Hardy 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Solcambs 19/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Could not make the traverse ... old age, bad fingers, and lacking in bottle for the first climb of the day.

fatbuoybazza 30/May/10 Lead dog
with phil
lukehodson 01/May/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 25/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 12/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Harry Thorpe 12/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
peter myers ??/2010 2nd
with Tim Lewis
matt0759 17/Oct/09 Lead
Mike Parker 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Boy ?/Oct/09 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Tadams 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Finnegan Pope-Carter
Andrew Abraham ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
siah 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with gavin nixon
tommytwotone 11/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
Glyn Davidson 09/May/09 2nd dog

Grrrr, this should have been easier! Came off the traverse with freezing cold fingers although I doubt that's what caused me to fall.

Hidden 27/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
DannyK 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Katie
JCB42 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant nut placement before the edge of the crack! Lay-back & trust thine feet!

with Tom Lister
masa-alpin 21/Mar/09 Lead dog

1 fall.

with Adam W
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 01/Mar/09 2nd dog
with Murray
NickHobbs ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Jeff
danm 06/Oct/08 2nd
metal arms 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
khawk 30/Aug/08 Lead
with DT
barni 26/Aug/08 2nd
with Oli
Elsier 23/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Michael, Stuart
dja 25/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
djking1983 22/Jun/08 Lead

good lead, tricky stretch move aross crux

AndyM-LVB 15/Jun/08 Lead RP
richardhopton 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
AndyM-LVB 14/Jun/08 TR dog
with Brendan Ferguson
Mike W ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Rampikino 29/May/08 Lead

Sound climbing, though nervy to get to the roof. Had to use 2 of my smallest wires for confidence.

with Cat
Hidden 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
nickwhimster ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Brian Cox
mat cooper 09/Feb/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
sdht ??/2008 -
Dan 85 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with John
Laurence Everitt 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb

Katie Marshall 04/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead dog
eduardo 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Sylvain, Mark H
ebunick 07/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Jez
AngelaC 06/May/07 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
tatz45 17/Apr/07 Lead O/S
joe larner 13/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
cem 10/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with Miles Butteriss
mattyork2 05/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead dog
Will Hunt 16/Dec/06 Lead dog

Freezing cold. Damp to say the least. Foot slipped and decked from the first small flake. Couldnt feel fingers. Took first fall on gear. Eventually struggled on and continued the traverse right to finish up Flake Chimney. Screaming from the hot aches at the top. One for the summer mehinks.

with Jamie
Hidden 24/Sep/06 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jul/06 2nd
with Angus McLean
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Stig 30/May/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Graeme Hammond 13/May/06 Lead dog
with Creeky
ASchwirtz 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Hanna Wride
Chesh 15/Apr/06 Lead
with Phil B
reg_measures 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Luke
goi.ashmore 28/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Arnaud Garcon
Hidden 03/Sep/05 2nd
JPGR ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Andy
lost.arrow 15/Jul/05 -
with Isabelle Membrez
DavidR 13/May/05 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 03/Apr/05 -
with Stu Sherwood
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd dnf
thetourist 28/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/04 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 18/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead
Gus ??/2003 Lead
lost.arrow 30/Mar/02 -
cem 22/Jul/01 2nd
with Rod Strachan
Hidden 13/Jun/00 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead dnf

Very hot,feet slipped under overhang, gear ripped, decked out & only broke Scaphoid, Result.

lost.arrow 12/Jun/98 2nd
Mark Riley ??/1998 Lead
with Richard Ibberson
A Crook 27/Aug/97 TR
with Dad
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jun/97 2nd
with Richard Bower
Hidden ??/1997 Lead dog
nige ??/1996 Lead
with john buckley
robtrooper ??/1996 -
brady 09/Sep/95 2nd
with John Cameron
Hidden 18/Jun/95 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Carl Hamer 05/Jun/93 Lead O/S

long reach to move right

with Chris Weiner
timreynolds 03/May/93 Lead

First HVS lead - Steve told me it was only VS!

Hidden 05/May/92 Lead
kp64zl ?/Jul/91 TR
Raggar 31/Mar/91 2nd
with Steve B
Hidden 22/May/90 Lead
Hidden 25/Apr/90 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1990 Lead
Roget ??/1990 Lead O/S
Tom V ??/1986 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, mapperley samurai, SuperLee1985, Jackmccormack, Bloke on a Rope, Hidden, AB744, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Hidden, Albie, Hidden, ben comery, ColinD, JCB42, markblair, Hidden, Robfromcornwall, PanzerHanzler, nublet, Hidden
High E1
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High 5c
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Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set