12m. A mini-Mincer and popular, though this one is easier for the tall. From the foot of the odd perched flake, climb the grungy groove to the overhang and layback rightwards round this to easy ground. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1958
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Callum van Werkhoven||10/Jun||2nd O/S||
Roaches HVS Challenge #11
Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!
|James Oakes||26/May||2nd O/S|
|Ram MkiV||26/May||Lead O/S||
Harder than it looks!!
|John Higgs||21/Mar||Lead O/S||
On some of Al's gear, after he gave up.
|rob 528||??/2015||Lead O/S|
Laura, Paul Wolf
|Matt Cooke||26/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
19/31. Short and sweet, a good route.
|Alex Winter||21/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
19 on Staffordshire nose. Nice little route.
|Rosie Henstock||15/Jul/14||2nd dog|
|jack 9895||13/Jul/14||2nd O/S|
Pleasant little route, if slightly unbalanced.
bit short yes 1 star.
Hard moves out of the roof!
|HAJ Francis||?/Apr/14||Lead O/S|
Very good, Found this quite hard, powerful.
|Tom Last||31/May/13||Lead O/S||
Fine once you work it out, good short pitch.
|Morgan P||25/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
Was feeling good after Commander Energy and lead this. The crux took a few tries and reverses to the corner to rest to get but got it clean.
|Graeme Hammond||20/Oct/12||Lead rpt|
on steve's gear for convenience
short but sweet
|Double Knee Bar||05/Jun/12||Lead dnf||
Bloody hard work. Bomber gear. Good job as I fell on it 4 or 5 times. One to come back to.
Great climb. Had to sit on the rope after a number of failed attempts at committing to the crux and not finding the rest quite as restful as I needed. Once I remembered to actually lay back into my layback, the feet just stuck to the lovely gritty wall.
Short but very involving! Did this after The Mincer and found the 'Mincing' part on this harder!
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||24/Apr/12||Lead||
A bit bold to get to the roof - the only pro I could find was a couple of nuts behind a creaky flake. (Apparently there used to be more flakes!). Couldn't stretch to the good foot holds first time on the crux but managed somehow to reverse for a rest and re-appraisal. Got it second time. Brought back happy memories of the crux on the top pitch of Thin Wall Special!
|Mr Tickle||24/Aug/11||Lead O/S|
One fall and a couple of rests! The fall was while I was talking and just trying to get into a resting position - completely unnecessary! Foot slipped off. After that had to compose myself and try the crux a couple of times. Bomber gear in the undercut. Not too bad when you actually commit and go for it - high feet help. Would come back to do clean.
First HVS. Almost a one-move-wonder; had a bit of a faff before committing to the move out to the corner. Pity it's a bit short.
|paul horabin||01/Jun/11||Lead O/S|
|Emma-Louise Anderson||19/May/11||Lead dog||
Worked out a good sequence for my feet but couldn't commit first time. Rested on the bomber gear, retreated to the ledge and then smashed it! : ) Awesomeness.
|Col Kingshott||07/May/11||Lead O/S|
Had to lower from roof to ponder the move around nose.Reclimbed and finished clean- annoyed to miss out on the on sight- but also pleased that I eventually got on with it !
|Neil D||22/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
Nadeem Rahim, Beth Hodgett
fell trying to get gear out at the jug under the overhang
Thin gear to start. Almost fell off the crux.
|Craig Shelley||23/Mar/11||Lead O/S|
|scotty h||04/Mar/11||TR dnf||
We only had an attempt at it because we were right by it and figured why not.
Steve Hammond, Lewis Mansell
Both had 2 goes at leading it, Ben got it on his second go.
Ben Woody Woodward
Stretch for a rockover using the undercut above. Who got the 2 wires stuck in it though?
|Kyle Rance||07/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
Two star climb!!!
Danny, John Parton, Justin
|Andy Hardy||25/Jun/10||Lead O/S|
Could not make the traverse ... old age, bad fingers, and lacking in bottle for the first climb of the day.
|irish paul||25/Apr/10||2nd O/S||
|Laurence Everitt||12/Mar/10||2nd rpt|
|Harry Thorpe||12/Mar/10||Lead O/S|
|Mike Parker||17/Oct/09||Lead O/S|
|Andrew Abraham||?/Sep/09||Lead O/S|
|Glyn Davidson||09/May/09||2nd dog||
Grrrr, this should have been easier! Came off the traverse with freezing cold fingers although I doubt that's what caused me to fall.
Brilliant nut placement before the edge of the crack! Lay-back & trust thine feet!
|Simon Holden (LCandCC)||01/Mar/09||2nd dog||
|metal arms||20/Sep/08||Lead O/S|
good lead, tricky stretch move aross crux
|Mike W||?/Jun/08||Lead O/S|
Sound climbing, though nervy to get to the roof. Had to use 2 of my smallest wires for confidence.
|Dan 85||17/Nov/07||Lead O/S||
|Laurence Everitt||04/Nov/07||Lead O/S||
Sylvain, Mark H
|joe larner||13/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
|Will Hunt||16/Dec/06||Lead dog||
Freezing cold. Damp to say the least. Foot slipped and decked from the first small flake. Couldnt feel fingers. Took first fall on gear. Eventually struggled on and continued the traverse right to finish up Flake Chimney. Screaming from the hot aches at the top. One for the summer mehinks.
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||04/Jun/06||Lead O/S|
|Graeme Hammond||13/May/06||Lead dog||
Very hot,feet slipped under overhang, gear ripped, decked out & only broke Scaphoid, Result.
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||?/Jun/97||2nd||
|Carl Hamer||05/Jun/93||Lead O/S||
long reach to move right
First HVS lead - Steve told me it was only VS!