Rockfax Description
12m. The flying fin is approached up the bulging arete. Hand-traverse a flange out left then rock onto it and layback smartly, heart in mouth, up the impressive arete. Photo page 41. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Top 5 E2's in the UK?.

adamre12 31/Oct Lead O/S

Amazing route, proper friction lay backing. You would NOT want to fall on the gear behind the flexing flake. First E2 for a long time, made even better by having Johnny Dawes for an audience!!!

Els.ives 31/Oct 2nd
Ella7 25/Oct Lead O/S

What a quality route! All the way...scary technical slab climbing, fun overhanging flake rock-over and the lovely airy arete at the top. First E2 on grit, up and down climbing countless times before figuring out the hard slab move. So psyched to have got it!

KatOstrich 17/Oct TR O/S
zcsharp 17/Oct Lead rpt
with Danish
steely 13/Oct 2nd O/S
owain-1978 13/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct 2nd O/S
jimmysdead 20/Sep Lead O/S

Pleased with this one. Had it on my to do list.

with Jon Haddon
td72 ?/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug Lead dnf
RKirke 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Dougie
Jake Young 08/Aug 2nd rpt
dswansonlow 08/Aug Lead β
with RKirke
Callum van Werkhoven 11/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 03/Jun Lead O/S
with Alan James, Tom Ripley
Alan James - UKC and UKH 03/Jun Lead
FlavioL1989 30/May Lead β
MichaelGallimore 30/May 2nd rpt
with Flavio
Stepanek 10/May Lead O/S
with Rachel Ashwell
R2B 04/May Lead O/S


with Lucas
callumbtaylor 02/May Lead O/S

First E2! Great climb, would've been nicer without the constant light rain

tedswag 02/May 2nd β

Bit of everything, fantastic moves, the hard looking bits aren't so but neither are the easy looking bits

rashwell ?/May 2nd
robertmichaeladams 26/Apr Lead
with Tim
Tim Rodgers 26/Apr 2nd
mike8331 23/Apr TR
Will Murphy 20/Apr Lead G/U

Tried it once before but had to back off due to poor weather conditions. Absolutely amazing line, really good climbing with committing moves at the exposed crux.

with Andy
Tricklebank 20/Apr 2nd O/S
Mark Grist 18/Apr 2nd
with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 18/Apr Lead O/S

Good moves on the slab Easy if your tall. Top bit is fantastic, quite easy for the grade

oread 18/Apr Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 16/Apr Lead G/U

Took a fall off the slab and damn near hit the ground! Brushed myself off and went again. Superb route.. requiring some commitment!

with Steve
stevoland 16/Apr 2nd β
ned_85 12/Apr 2nd
Senna 12/Apr Lead O/S
with Ned
Albachoss 30/Mar Lead rpt
with Matt Cox
Tom McCabe 24/Mar Lead O/S

Stunning line, just held the crux by repeatedly shouting 'watch me' and a sticky jumper! Made the fin feel like a walk in the park (the flake does move a bit worryingly when you stand on it). A long term goal and first proper Extreme!

JRJones 23/Mar 2nd

Tom Lead, best lead of the week.

with Tom McCabe, Rob Law
Hidden 22/Mar Lead O/S
Albachoss 07/Mar 2nd rpt

What a flipping good route!

with Ed
Stroppy 07/Mar Lead O/S

Wooo! Such a cool route, very very worthy of its three stars

mikespooner 07/Mar Lead O/S

What a route! Felt pretty solid on this, despite fumbling with and dropping nuts and taking a little while to compose myself for the final moves.

with Alex Owen
Maddie 02/Jan 2nd dog

Did this terribly. Struggled on the slabby bit though think a legitimate short person on grit excuse can maybe be used for that. No desire to lead it at all! Would be good if you're confident at the grade though

with Alun
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
adam 24 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Stuart Johnston 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Andrew Abraham 28/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Paul Deane
Hidden 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Passmore
Theeni 21/Sep/14 TR O/S
with Joseph
jrccrosby 21/Sep/14 TR

Think I cheated (as well as top roping) by using a crack out to the left

cjsheps 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
phildawson 16/Sep/14 Lead β

Chris led onsite then we pulled the ropes and i lead it on his gear.

with Chris Shepherd
Hidden 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Andy Smallwood 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Drew M 14/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with Nick Smith
mike8331 09/Sep/14 TR
mark12345 31/Aug/14 2nd
with julian
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 28/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Tom
JayAyBee 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Wow! what a route, simply brilliant.

with Ian
poigol5043 06/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
dunk3607 ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jack 9895 06/Jun/14 2nd
MichaelGallimore 18/May/14 Lead β

Really chuffed with this. Been wanting to do it for ages,but the climb seemed too intimidating. Went smoothly, lots of mental prep and self talk helped. Surprised at how much gear I got in.

with Brendan
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
switch 13/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Tim H
David Kay 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

The grit felt like velcro on the upper section!

Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
Stopsy 12/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Bede
bede.west 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

First E2 o/s! cheers for the belay stops!. great climb love the feel of the moves on the arete.

with Stopsy
Roo123 12/Apr/14 2nd
TheaSmea 12/Apr/14 2nd dog
Calum Wadsworth 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Really nice and well protected. Bit of a soft touch?

with micki
MSchobitz 29/Mar/14 Lead β

Used Calums pre-placed gear. Really hard crux if youre short. Pebble crimping to the max!

amccann 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Teappleby 29/Mar/14 Lead

Great route, a good route to get on as the gear is good all the way.

a13x 15/Mar/14 Lead RP
Ky 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Just go

with Pete Bridgewood
Matt Cooke 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Nathanie1 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Happy to finally get on it

Hidden 01/Mar/14 2nd rpt
CragDog 01/Mar/14 Lead RP
sev 16/Feb/14 2nd O/S

so easy on second!

zcsharp 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Was surprised by the crux being on the slab and had to skip it because it was getting dark, and that i was too scared to do it. Top section was alot easier than i thought and was superb climbing.

with Jonny Raines
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
jimxxx ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 2nd
bwestwood 10/Nov/13 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Duncan Frisch
Monk 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. I've wanted to do this route since I first saw it many years ago. It didn't disappoint.

finchelata 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with dave
Hidden 27/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Sep/13 2nd rpt
masa-alpin 27/Sep/13 Lead RP

Simon attempted, but backed off from the crux slab. I pulled down the ropes and lead - retroflush, as I seconded Dom on it several years ago.

with Simon P
mat cooper 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 14/Sep/13 2nd
julesmckim 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Lovely route. Hardest move on lower arete. The rest of it well protected and fun

with Alex Renshaw
vanderz 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt
dionisys 08/Sep/13 2nd

brilliant route!!!

with vanderz
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Andre Clarke 04/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Top route all there

Dale ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A great route. leaving the flake to start climbing the top arÍte can be a bit intimidating but not as hard as it looks.

with dave
ERH 26/Aug/13 Lead β
with Sarah R
theomoore 25/Aug/13 Lead β


wolf.leeb 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with hosey
Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd
Albachoss 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

lovely with Good moves throughout. The flake seems okay-ish, offsets are very useful. upper section is splendid!

with James.H, Dr Matt
UnkArl 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lee
anguskille 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

great fun, the belay stance is almost as fun as the rest of it

with Callum, Andy Myers
Goodstuff 20/Jul/13 Lead

First E2- took a tumble on the crux, got back on the horse and got it 2nd try. Great moves on upper section!

Daniel Heath 16/Jul/13 Solo rpt

Again, skipped out the slab move before the roof. Also took a few minutes before going for the arete. Not much commitment as I reckon you could reverse the juggy traverse.

mrteale 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Most intense climb to date and first e-grade lead clean! Loved it.

thomaspomfrett 16/Jul/13 2nd β

Tried the lead but couldn't commit to the 5c move on the slab so seconded. Definitely one to come back for!

with Ed Teale
Mattlamb90 14/Jul/13 Lead β
with Ryan
Stuart_Burbidge 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Stopsy 02/Jul/13 2nd β
with Stu, Henry
HAJ Francis 02/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Malcolm Bass 30/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy Brown
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 21/Jun/13 Lead RP

Fell at the crux just below the fin- lack of height the main problem! Pulled ropes through and had another crack. Found the rest very straightforward if a bit scary. Good beta from Frosty.

Jack93 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Mike W 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Alistair Corbett 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 30/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mike
Dan Geh 26/May/13 Lead rpt
with Jonny, Hazel
Hidden 26/May/13 TR β
HazelMacLean 26/May/13 TR β

Nice layback at top

Indy92 26/May/13 2nd O/S
Caspian Johnson 05/May/13 Lead O/S

great climb

Nickfoulds 05/May/13 Lead β
with Cas
Sam Simpson 02/May/13 Lead O/S
Jake Young 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Laura
lbarras 20/Apr/13 2nd
with jake
Fragmod 15/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/13 -
deacondeacon 08/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd
sopaz 07/Apr/13 2nd
with Mackie
cem 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
efrance24234 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
joe1joe1joe2 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb. The crux is definitely the at the final stage of the slab, when gaining the hold under the roof. The arÍte at the end makes for easy, but precarious and exposed climbing.

with Phillip Wright
Morgan P 25/Feb/13 Lead RP

After 2 top ropes I tried it on lead. Did the start wrong (followed what the people on TR did - came up the crack and in right under the roof to the flake to go out to the arete) but the route is there for the exposure at the top. Awesome, proud of that.

Stefan_Morris 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Mark Saywell
SophieEmily 20/Feb/13 2nd dnf

Completed slab and traverse under overhang. Fell several times trying to pull over lip.

with Morgan Plain
Hidden 19/Feb/13 2nd O/S
tcn_2002 17/Feb/13 2nd
with Ian Faulkner
pearson9596 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Hiscox
ian d f 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Jacob, Tom C
Hidden 13/Jan/13 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead β

Layback didn't seem so dramatic. Then again I did have 4 bits of gear in the flake.

admackie ??/2013 -
robertmctague ??/2013 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris ??/2013 2nd rpt
with Andy
sopaz ??/2013 2nd
with Mackie
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
WB 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Good route, but inconsistent difficulties detract a bit.

with Pagan
Hidden 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
luke384 10/Nov/12 2nd β
with Ryan mcconnell
TRFrost 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with N. Howett
Sam Melville 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S
jack1996 23/Sep/12 Lead rpt

second time, still awesome

with Luke c
centurion05 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Yeah ok...... not as awesome as all the people make out, gear is good and moves are ok.

with Ian Llewellyn
ianjfsutcliffe 15/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Foot slipped and I fell off. Then bottled it. Weak.

with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 14/Sep/12 Lead
with Andrew Deckon
gw3285 16/Aug/12 2nd
Woodiee 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

wouldnt want to fall from the crux on the lower slab, a good 5C move, but easy once the sloper under the roof is reached. found the fin easy and well protected by the creaking flake. wanted to do this for ages, great route for the grade!

andybirtwistle 04/Aug/12 2nd
with Woodiee
w.pettet-smith 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

soft but good

with ben
Nick Russell 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S

I was surprised by some tricky climbing lower down. I suppose I'd only been thinking about the top

paddygoodwinlondon 30/Jun/12 2nd
with Gareth Hall
GarethHall 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jay C 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Charlotte, Anastasia
mrmoe17 02/Jun/12 TR dog

fell 3 times trying to find the move under the prow.

ranga 12/May/12 2nd
Alastair 12/May/12 Lead

Loved it :-)

with Jane Edwards
Dean177 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 12/May/12 2nd O/S
saffy 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb!

Dan Geh 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S

nice, soft for 5c

tgeh 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Really nice, probably easy for e2

with dan geh
ladymuck 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Language was clean in parts. Awesome, first seconded E grade, great end to weekend in Roaches

George Nichols 15/Apr/12 Lead

Tremendous pebble-pulling and a lovely, airy final sequence. Great fun. First E2, but a slight cheat when I got the fear trying to work out the slab sequence and stuck a hand in the left hand crack. Annoying.

hoggy90 01/Apr/12 2nd
timmyhobby 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

wicked route, wasnt 100% about the strength of the hollow sounding flake!

pete1993 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JakeWShaw 25/Mar/12 2nd dog

Fell a couple of times on second but fine once I finally manned up and committed!

with Pete
Nick1812P 25/Mar/12 Lead β
stefie c 25/Mar/12 2nd
Ewano 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Sick. Easier for the tall.

AielSavage 24/Mar/12 Lead

fell off the slab just below the fin before going back up and sticking it second time round, absolutely top climbing though!

mattorford 24/Mar/12 Lead

awesome route

ollyroberts 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S

This route has everything! Techy slab, thrutchy roof and bold arete! Awesome!

with James
disturbed_one51 16/Mar/12 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 16/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Feb/12 TR dnf
Hidden 18/Feb/12 TR dnf
Mike Goldthorp 12/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Felt comfortable back on the grit, so good to be back on it!

with Paul, Neil
antclark6381 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
jack1996 30/Oct/11 Lead

Got second go after falling going to the break under the nose, pulled the ropes down and got it second go. Such an awesome route, been on my wishlist for ages!

with Sid, tom s
AlistairB 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd
Si dH 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant moves all the way up, a shame the slab feels eliminate but still 3*

with Neil Furniss
Daniel Heath 22/Oct/11 Lead RP

Seconded this last year. Didn't stick to the eliminate slab this time.

Speeddemonsi 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 26/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Si
Compo 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Made this look pretty ugly.

with Hannah
thetradlad 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, good pro to start and bold finish (remember to sling the flake, not doing so would be daft, not recommended. Placing a crap nut instead, also not a good idea) Surprising how flexibale the flake seems when stood on it :)

Takacs 02/Sep/11 2nd
with Jake Lodge
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd dnf
Brown 14/Aug/11 2nd
with Lilifa
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Petarghh 08/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Thanks to Duncan for the Ropes - good effort on the lead mate !

robman 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead dnf
benkelsey 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S

hard part is the slab before the fin. top section is easy with confidence. "going to be the best fall ever if you stack it from the flake ben" cheers remus.

Hidden 20/Jul/11 2nd rpt
theotherpetehill 15/Jul/11 Lead β
Anta Misina ?/Jul/11 TR
JRae 19/Jun/11 Lead


chrism225 19/Jun/11 2nd β
with jonny
chrism225 19/Jun/11 2nd β
with jonny
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
RachaelB 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Rob Battams
pipof747 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Sidekick 03/Jun/11 Lead β

Tried this about a year ago but ended up downclimbing.

pie_eater_pete 24/May/11 Lead
with bwestwood
bwestwood 24/May/11 2nd
minirollsrule 12/May/11 2nd O/S

amazing climb must lead this one day!!

with Stu
Stuart William 11/May/11 Lead O/S
with Alex Maggs
Double Knee Bar 10/May/11 2nd O/S
with Iain
mhawk 08/May/11 2nd
fennerz 08/May/11 Lead O/S


with Sean Grady
Chriswallis2 06/May/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
galpinos 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sam
grady ?/May/11 Lead O/S
edmitchell 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf
emmarowe 24/Apr/11 2nd
Onion 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Bottled the final layback, had a rope lowered then cruised up no problem. Headgames.

Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Audrey @ The Castle 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 TR β
jas128 09/Apr/11 TR dog
sara n 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Chris Glasson
CharlieMack 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with David
richardr 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

First grit E2! Superb finish!

nai 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Richard
Lunar25 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Been practicing aretes to prepare me for this, got on it and totally crushed it! Felt wonderful :-) found the lower slab the hardest bit....

with Gedas
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
crispyboy 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Lashlin
jimshrimp 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Working. My Birthday. E2 on-sight. Doesn't get much better. Possibly the highlight of my climbing career to date. Must drink less Export, and spend more time at the Wall! Amazing route, and perhaps luck played a part, but all my gear 'fell' into place and I was most encouraged during the ascent.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Mar/11 Lead β

First e grade. Great fun but scary!

with Harry Massey
petegunn 24/Feb/11 Lead

sure the flake moved!

with Davina
Hidden 24/Feb/11 2nd O/S
hilty 30/Jan/11 Solo O/S

Climbed a fee times now so got it dialled nice solo!!!

ellmang 29/Jan/11 TR
Hidden 28/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Gigga 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Hung around at the good rest before moving onto the flake to warm my fingertips up. Rockover then the slopey aret great climbing.

Shorty83 22/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Onion 22/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Brilliant rockover move after the scary blank slab. Planning to try and lead next time I'm there.

The Green Giant 20/Jan/11 Lead O/S

'Mate, if you come off from the crux you're going to go flying'...'Cheers Dan'...Got to the ledge before the crux and contemplated life for 10 minutes then went for it.

with Dan with the van
donkster ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Steff007 ??/2011 2nd O/S
Tom Wayman ??/2011 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
highlux 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Cool route.

jamesgodwin64 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
nadeem 13/Nov/10 2nd rpt
nepsoi999 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

nice climb in perfect conditions. Loving the rock over on the slightly hollow flake, and we hand shuffling needed at the top :D

with nadeem
Hidden 10/Nov/10 2nd O/S
nic42 10/Nov/10 Lead RP
with Jack
hilty 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Neil P
david morse 23/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with phil+rory
phil64 22/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with rory shaw, dave morse
Mark Warnett 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Easy climbing but quite exciting!

Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Bill Lawrence 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

brilliant climb, how it changes from a thrutchy rock-over, to delicate arete climbing is awesome

with tommy martin
monsteratt 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Took me a few attempts to get the crux move moving up to under the prow. Felt a bit insecure making the move not having anything for hands, but I guess that's grit slabs for you. Didn't find the top move too bad, but I did have a oh f**k this is waht it feels like to fall off moment.

Andrew Abraham 25/Sep/10 2nd

Good skills Monty

nic42 23/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Fred
Cragrat Rich 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Plenty of uncertainty throughout made this a really engrossing route. The rock-over onto the flake was definately my kind of speciality and felt pips (as my little lad would say) and the top arete, despite my apprehension, felt really cool and not as scary or daring as expected

Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Diggler 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with andyob
Phill Mitch 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with bleggs
matthomas79 04/Sep/10 TR dog
with Simon Palmer
simeclimb68 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Kingsjester 04/Sep/10 2nd dog

Really enjoyed this climb although extremely reachy in the middle, where i had to take a rest.

Paul C F 04/Sep/10 TR dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
riddle 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Lost scissors, paper, stone and got the 2nd!

dave o 17/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Julia H
MaccMark 16/Aug/10 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Kyle Rance 07/Aug/10 Lead RP

amazing route, well worth doing

with John Proudfoot
Hidden 07/Aug/10 TR
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Claire Taylor 05/Aug/10 2nd dog

Struggled with the slab crux due to reach issues!

with Scott Gibson
nadeem 02/Aug/10 Lead β


with Tom Foote
farmus21 22/Jul/10 Lead

Super cool position at the top. A few contrasting hard moves but thankfully short.

with Frazer Hopwwod
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
DavidR 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
thrutch 09/Jul/10 Lead
Mitch1990 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S

One on the best feeling's in my life nice climbing and its all their.

mattyork2 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
sgl0jd 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Surprisingly easy although feeling the flake moving whilst standing on it was a little disconcerting

Jacqui Parker 12/Jun/10 2nd
with Stu Burbidge, James Dexter
jacobjacob 06/Jun/10 Lead
trikstatroy 05/Jun/10 TR
i_a_coops ?/Jun/10 Lead β
with Jacob
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
troym 31/May/10 TR dog
with Clare Midwood
benjizac 31/May/10 TR
neil0968 23/May/10 Lead
Laurence Everitt 19/May/10 2nd rpt
with Mark D
Mark D 19/May/10 Lead O/S
hilty 16/May/10 Solo

lead clean first found it easy then did it solo. Great climb

Graeme Hammond 15/May/10 Lead O/S

VERY COOL, not sure how hard its meant to be E2 wise but it felt like an E1 to me. The lay backing that I was worried about was dead easy and the hard bit was unexpectedly the first slab and getting a borrowed fat sling to go on the spike.

gnc760 28/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with James Kay
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
philhilo 23/Apr/10 Lead dog

1st E on grit for 4/5 yrs? Made a meal of the bottom slab crux. Rest ok. Need to go back and get it clean.

Purple Roni 23/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/10 2nd O/S
drcorbasisgod 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
marclloyd77 11/Apr/10 Lead β

Amazing! First E2.

toasted 11/Apr/10 2nd
with Marc Lloyd
Will Hunt 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Got gripped on the slab. A guy standing on top talked me through it. Gear in the flake on the fin is actually good despite what I'd heard! But is the flake entirely secure?

with Matt Ringrose, Sean Jacobs
dean79 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf

couldn't put faith in my feet on the slab below the roof! gutted - next time

Laurence Everitt 12/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 12/Mar/10 2nd O/S
peaches69 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

change you pants kinda stuff!!! top arete is easy if you trust the friction in your shoes. sling came off flake when half way up arete (foolishly thought 60cm sling + draw would suffice, no, 120cm sling would do much better job) had other gear in so was ok bout this

with chris fenton
Duncan Campbell 07/Mar/10 Lead β

Had 2 pieces of gear in low down before crux after bubbles fell off. otherwise onsight. tech crux before bulge but found rocking over onto flake physical crux though hung around being chucked a sling and arranging it on the top of the flake. amazing finish! my first E-point on grit, thanks to everyone for the encouragement not sure I could have done it else!

with Rach T
IAmAStone ?/Feb/10 Lead rpt
with Ruth Aitken
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
andyob ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Diggler
Drew M ??/2010 Lead
mwatson ??/2010 -
chris fox ??/2010 Lead O/S
lukehodson 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Totally amazing route!

Mr Powly 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tom.e 18/Oct/09 Lead β
Pete Graham 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
snakebite 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Tim M 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 19/Sep/09 2nd
Neil D 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
BorisVBlade 11/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Glyn Davidson 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S

The hollow wobbly flake that you have to trust with your only gear is not very confidence inspiring. Fantastic route though :)

with Ali
Ali H 06/Sep/09 2nd
with Glyn
barni 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Strong Jon
Alex Winter 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
willoates ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S


Hidden 25/Jun/09 2nd O/S
jcurley 08/Jun/09 2nd O/S
smudge 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Rob
michael burrows 10/May/09 TR
with steve davies
Lallylandslider 10/May/09 2nd
with steve davies
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 09/May/09 Lead rpt
nickwhimster 02/May/09 Lead O/S

gear pre-placed

with andy abraham
Tom Eagle 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Greenald
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 2nd
liamoloughlin 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
GPN 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Annette
net 11/Apr/09 2nd
with George
Martin Haworth 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
NDD 05/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Stoff ?/Apr/09 TR
BeccaSnowden 29/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Tom
thomasadixon 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Scary crux at the top of the slab! Lovely (and relatively easy) top flake & arete. Awesome route.

with Becca
Hidden 20/Mar/09 TR rpt
Gazleah 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

First E2 and favourite climb to date

Hidden 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
dprctr 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Didnt lay back and scuffed up my ankles alot, but possibly my favourite climbing experience ever.

with Dale Comley, Gaz Leah
Hidden 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
jchenoweth 07/Mar/09 Lead RP

Seconded the route earlier in the day clean, so decided to lead it myself

with Chris K
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
ckms ?/Mar/09 2nd dog
with Danger Jon
alexharv3y 28/Feb/09 2nd rpt
Tobes ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Alex
Andrew Abraham ??/2009 Lead O/S


mic_b 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Lev 01/Nov/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Nov/08 2nd dog
tumbling wizard ?/Nov/08 -
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
troym 12/Oct/08 TR O/S
siah 09/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with gavin nixon
metal arms 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
C@rwyn 14/Sep/08 Lead dnf


with Tom
Jim Slater 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Gavin Singleton, Phil Lee
northy1983 ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S

really nice.

with ginge, dom
Hidden 21/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/08 2nd rpt
Chad123 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Great fun, Emily tried and got put off by the blank slab move to the roof - I used my height to help with this one, then loved the top arete - wicked!

with Emily
Phil Jennings 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Kieran Leary, Outdoor ED
Coel Hellier 09/May/08 Lead
alaan 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Oli
Oli 06/Apr/08 2nd rpt
with Alan
areeves ?/Apr/08 TR
with Andy
tommytuffa 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Felix
mat cooper 09/Feb/08 2nd
Tom Last 03/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Amazing, grinning from ear to ear, although not as hard as I'd expected. Probably the best climb I've done on grit.

with Caroline and Cordelia
felixthelion ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Tricky upper arete. Nice climb but a bit short

alexharv3y 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Mancunianimport ??/2008 -
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Brian
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
JGW ??/2008 2nd
with Matt Tilley, Ali Gurney
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Dan 85 17/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with John
Lev 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Horton & Jon Crouch
Steve Banham 24/Oct/07 Lead rpt

Awesome climb, with the tricky bit at the bottom, and the bold bit at the top, with a dubious sling on a rickety flake!

Steve Banham 24/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Alex Mason 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Hard hands-free move to under the prow, easy flake mantle and a magnificent finish up the exposed arete! sweet!

with Duncan Banatine
kendogcatchy 20/Oct/07 TR
Luke Brooks 01/Oct/07 Lead O/S
flyboy86 ?/Oct/07 TR O/S
with Nick Kennedy
Mike W 22/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with steve
djking1983 14/Aug/07 TR
Owen W-G 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Used neighbouring crack for L foot (but not hands or gear) at crux before top of slab. Seemed v eliminate not to, it being easily within reach, altho I probably missed out the 5c by doing so. Stunning layback finale much easier than expected. Some chap took some photos of me on it and promised to email to me but never did, so here I am!

with Simon Denison
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Kendrick
Hidden 14/Jul/07 TR O/S
orb 05/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Slate-monkey
Morgan Woods 05/May/07 Lead O/S

Brilliant route....with a great variety of moves and an excellent position.

with Gareth
tatz45 17/Apr/07 Lead O/S

First 5C onsight

UndercoverElephant ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S

The smooth slab is the tricky bit, getting on the upper arret is a move for the jug thugs. Was expecting much worse of the arret itself.

with S
jonnyboy 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S

spooky laybacking

Mr Wild 14/Mar/07 Lead dnf
with Pete
masa-alpin 11/Mar/07 2nd β

Dom lead.

with John Se [ULMC], Dom S
Somerset swede basher 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Masa Sakano
Hidden 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Jus 18/Feb/07 2nd rpt
Oli 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Getting to the break under the nose seemed the hardest bit. Brilliant climbing.

with Lee
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Snell
gregoritos ?/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
jamesturnbull ??/2007 -
donkster 29/Oct/06 Lead rpt
with dennis
daza 24/Oct/06 2nd
with Sam D
dan gibson 08/Oct/06 2nd rpt
with AJ
Ed Booth 05/Sep/06 Lead dog

Took an unexpected whipper before the roof upon reaching a VERY slopey slab with one hand and thinkink i may be able to hold it and then . . . errr not. Caught the belayer by surprise. Didn't come far from the ground. Oooops!

Hidden ?/Sep/06 TR RP
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Richard Hession 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Wonderful climb totally worthy of the 3 stars. Felt like 3 varied boulder problems with good shake out opportunities in-between!

with Nick
Pythonist 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Dave
Col Allott 06/Aug/06 Lead
with Alex Sturrock
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/06 Lead RP
jamieevans ?/Jul/06 Lead
dan gibson 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with karing
orb 03/May/06 Lead O/S
with Simon Fairman
ASchwirtz 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Hanna Wride
Ram MkiV 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
Jack Symmons ?/Mar/06 Lead

First E2

with Mikey
John Sergeant ??/2006 Lead
Rik Dawes ??/2006 Lead O/S
Stig 09/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Lawless
mux ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Frost ,
LoopyLou ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Mike Peak
donkster 02/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
JPGR ?/Jul/05 2nd
with Andy
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Will Barbour
drysori ?/May/05 Lead
Apharri ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 29/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Scottish78 05/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Matt Kirk
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Andrew Barker ??/2005 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Kath
Hidden ?/Jun/04 TR
Hidden 30/May/04 Lead dnf
Billg ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2004 -
Mark Collins 06/Dec/03 Lead O/S
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 06/Dec/03 2nd β

One of my all time favourites. Very pleased to have seconded this cleanly.

with Mark Collins
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 11/Oct/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/03 Lead
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead
Smelly Fox 09/Mar/03 Lead dnf

Managed to deck out from the flake due to some sketch belaying!

with Rob Clifton
chrishedgehog ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Claire Parfitt / Joe Thompson
Hidden 01/Sep/02 Lead O/S
akhughes ?/Apr/02 2nd
with Smithy
Hidden 30/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 28/Oct/01 Lead
chrishedgehog 27/Oct/01 Lead O/S
with C. Parfitt, Joe Thompson
adamwesthead 29/May/01 Lead O/S
with Hoult
Stone Muppet ??/2001 Lead β
Hidden ??/2001 2nd
Gus 29/Aug/00 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Lead
willackers ??/2000 2nd β
bullybones ??/2000 -
Laramadness 16/Oct/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/99 2nd O/S
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
Stoney Boy 22/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with Neil McCallum
Hidden 08/Aug/98 2nd
Mark Riley ??/1998 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
nige ??/1998 Lead
with john buckley
switch ??/1997 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ?/Sep/96 Lead
with Alex Langdon
brady 22/Jul/95 2nd
with John Cameron
Hidden 01/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ?/May/95 Lead

Brilliant climbing!

with Pete Carmichael
cragspud ??/1995 2nd O/S
Marti999 ??/1995 Lead
nai ??/1995 Lead
AlexRenshaw 22/Dec/94 Lead
with Ted Lister
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Duncan Bourne 02/Jul/94 2nd
with E Allcock
andrew300169 30/Jun/93 Lead O/S

Just Brilliant!

with Pom
Hidden 19/Aug/92 TR
Rob Davies ?/Aug/92 Lead dnf

Backed off, as Chris was getting understandably impatient with my dithering

Hidden 12/May/91 Lead
channinga ??/1991 -
Rich Kirby 12/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Roget 08/Sep/90 Lead rpt
with jon
Roget 08/Jul/90 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden 02/May/90 2nd
Dave Musgrove 07/May/89 Lead O/S
uphillnow 29/Apr/89 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/89 Lead O/S
jamiev ?/Oct/88 Lead O/S
with Adrian Hawkins
Hidden 23/Jun/88 TR
charlesmfrench 10/Jun/88 Lead rpt

Seconded Dave Booth on 8/6/85.

Hidden 24/Apr/88 Lead
goi.ashmore 04/Apr/88 Lead
with Rob Scott
Hidden 24/Jun/87 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/86 Lead
Chris Ellis 28/Sep/86 2nd
with Karen Veale, Martin Veale
Mike Owen 08/Mar/86 -
with Elaine Owen
Tom V ??/1986 2nd
with Neil Plant
AlexRenshaw 01/Sep/85 2nd
with Sean Myles
Hidden 12/May/84 Lead
Mark Kemball 01/Apr/84 2nd
with Paul Clark
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Michael Hood 04/Dec/83 Lead

First E lead. One of my best days, also soloed Roscoe's Wall and led Sloth & Hypothesis.

Hidden 29/Oct/83 2nd
stp 08/Jun/83 2nd
Mark Kemball 08/Mar/83 Lead
with Johnny Dawes
Hidden 10/Oct/82 2nd
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Solo
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High E3
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Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 163
High 6a
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Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 157
Votes cast 133
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set