Staffordshire > Hen Cloud >
 
Delstree*** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Main Crack
 
Levitation >>
[Left or right hand finish? , 2 kb]18m. The magnificent central crack set in a shallow groove is approached from a cave recess. It is delicate up the ramp and strenuous up the groove - hence the name. A rounded exit completes the fun, though according to an acquaintance who has been to Thailand it is nothing like an elephant's arse! © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown late 1950s 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Peak: past and Present, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List.

Photo: Left or right hand finish? © Climbster
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 151 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

robgixer - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/14

Hidden - 01/Mar/14

No comment.
Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Tom Nichols

Frank the Husky - 2014

Excellent! Would like to come back and lead.
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/13 with Nick Whimster, Andrew Abraham

1poundSOCKS - 2nd β - 29/Sep/13

Left or Right at the Top? Decisions, Decisions.
Climbster - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Matt

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

Tala M - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Mike Brookes

R0bbie - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with leighn

samsimpson - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/13 with Tom Doldon

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Mike

Coel Hellier - Lead - 07/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/13

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 05/May/13 with Ian Peachy

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Calum Wadsworth

Hannes B - 2nd - 06/Apr/13 with Debbie B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

Woosed out at the move left on tiny holds. Out of practice on the grit (and out of the right sized cam - note to self, save little white cam to protect that move)! Will be back...
Chris Sansum - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/13 with Phil Gibson

Possibly the best HVS I've done, anywhere.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13

Superb! Not as hard as I'd expected, great jams and decent feet all the way up. Top out was a bit ungainly!
climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/12

lovely.
Helen Gibson - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

Brown - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Andy R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Very good. Quite sustained but enough for feet to get gear in or out under a little less strain! Hold to the right at the top.
Batt - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with James Hoyes

Pleased to lead this clean.
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Rachel B

Up there with the best routes on grit
julesmckim - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Mickie Streule

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Francis

Cave start was covered in bird poo. Nice jams up the groove but very sustained and pumpy, rounded top out was a nightmare! An excellent proper Hen cloud HVS
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Thomas Geh

pumpy
tgeh - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with dan geh

timmyhobby - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/12

R2B - 2nd - 05/Jul/12

Lead up to the jamming crack. Found it piss wet through, wimped out, backed off. James led instead. Thank god.
nickmattia - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with james turnbull

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 12/Dec/11

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Mark R

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11

Fran S8 - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with john nightingale

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with max

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 24/Jul/11 with James Oswald

With Jim. The best HVS on grit? Absolutely superb and it felt as hard as lots of E1s. Awesome 5a move after 5a move. Some ok rests but pretty pumpy! Awesome! Why only 86 ascents on UKC? Go to Hen Cloud people!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 24/Jul/11

a test of my jamming skills learned a la ramshaw, paid off put pretty boxed by the top.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Remus Knowles

PAJames - 2011

keith leonard - 2011

David Smith - 2011

sgl0jd - 2011

Led clean up to the top out which I screwed up, still chuffed with it cause I can't jam and managed the jamming bit well enough. Then handed the ropes to Mike.
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 30/Oct/10 with Mike

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Alan

Sublime thuggery up the groove. Very sustained 5a.
Alex Winter - Lead - 21/Sep/10 with C. Prescott

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Sep/10

hotfeet - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Alex Pond

al99 - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Nick Record

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/10

Fantastic route. Found it a big challenge. Had initial trouble getting onto the starting block which I solved by bridging across the corner. Got through the roof no problem; lovely moves, then across to the delicate bold traverse to the corner. Found the corner tough partly due to the exposure but gear is all solid and there's a good rest at half way. Found the upper part quite hard and the top out a proper bugger. Well worth the struggle :)
climbinmunkey - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Ken

Made the delicate traverse into the crack but couldn't commit to the sustained loking corner carck. Pissed.
lrandall - Lead dnf - 08/Aug/10 with Sam Cook

31770 - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Jesse Dufton

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Jul/10

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Martin Hore

Epic route, but you can layback the crack :)
gingerwolf - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Absolutely fantastic! Had to rest twice on upper section, which was a shame, but can't say enough about the route. Tough start requiring some VERY wide bridging, then lean out under the roof and a mantle to gain the bottom right tip of the main face. The traverse is easy if you find the right holds (undercut), but moves away from uninspiring gear until the sanctuary of the corner. Then great tough jamming/laybacking with just enough for feet (and hands) all the way up. A really fantastic route.
Conor1 - 2nd dog - 17/Oct/09 with Tom Parry

A proper grit route with a bit of everything. Accidentally did a direct start way to the left of the normal start, which involved a high rockover off jams - 5b? The last move had me stumped for a while, resorted to bridging round and over the elephant's arse. Quality!
Misha - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09

nice jams, excellent
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Darren McMaster

shed_hed - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

Ebarnes - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09

Boy - Sep/09 with Ben Heason

Sankey - 2nd - 29/Aug/09 with Luke

Mr Wild - Lead - 20/Jul/09

Hardest of the 3
craig d - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Mick Fox

Mark Dennison - 2nd - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - 2009

Early in my jamming apprenticeship. Bit spooked after falling onto a shitty hex at the bottom of the groove. Lucky I didn't get any higher because I didn't have any gear.
Alex Winter - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/08 with J. Iles-Smith

Excellent- good jamming and swift laybacking up the crack
Twisty - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Byron Buck

Certainly brought out the Joe Brown in me!
Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Alex Twist

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 31/May/08

Hidden - 2008

middlevern - Lead O/S - 2008 with Mike Blood

galpinos - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Nick V

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Oct/07

mark s - Lead - 29/Sep/07 with andi t

MeMeMe - Lead - 09/Sep/07 with Andy

shoulders - Lead - 09/Sep/07

Jon Read - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/07 with Debs

nige - Lead - 08/Jul/07 with dave kells

MONKEY78 - 2nd - 31/May/07 with adam ellwood

davek - 2nd - 29/May/07 with Shaun L

Danos - Lead - Apr/07 with Ed

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 07/Nov/06

Brilliant climbing up the groove, pumpy but not quite as hard as I'd expected (a lot easier than BLH). The slab is a bit rubbish but the route is well worth 3*.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06 with Neil Furniss

feilx - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/06 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/06 with Felix Coxwell

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jul/06

Stig - 2nd rpt - 05/May/06 with Jonathan Teale

Stig - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/05 with Farmer Mark

With Gus, wore me out, sat on the top rope twoce before I completed it!
Andrew Abraham - 2nd dog - Jul/05

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/May/05 with Will Parsons

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

mark s - 2005

cem - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/04 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/04

Budge - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/03 with Mike Oates

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Jul/03 with Thea Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/03

zero six - Lead O/S - 2003

kato'sdad - Lead - 28/Aug/02 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/02 with Jon Berry

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/02 with Joe

Stone Muppet - 2002

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 01/Oct/00 with Dick Hanson

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/00 with Roy Thomas

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 2000 with helen gibson

ste_d - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/99 with andy perkins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/99

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/97

I've done easier E2's
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Solo - Jul/97 with Geoff

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/96

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/96

rurp - Lead O/S - 1996

ste_d - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/95 with mik

Marti999 - Lead - 1995

mikedelderfield - Lead - 12/Jul/94 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/94 with mik

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/93 with Colin Hughes

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Apr/92

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 18/Aug/91 with Andy Barker

NickJH - 2nd O/S - Jun/91 with N Hancock

sadams - 2nd - 16/Sep/90 with Mark Bonham

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/May/90 with jim

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/89

OMSKB - TR - Aug/89 with John Roberts

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/86

Hidden - 1986

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 21/Sep/82 with Andy Chadwick

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/82

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980 with Lyn Noble

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Joe-98, Goodstuff, SuperLee1985, kim.mulji, StaffsAndy, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, gavinpeach, Hidden, Chris Sansum, Hidden, Stefan Trebicki, RM199, Hidden, Batt, Hidden, bigmrp, Hidden, Sam Marks, Ragnaar, Hidden, lostinmidlands, Albie, Hidden, Alan100, Hidden, Big Steve C, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Skinny Kin, Ralfy, JaseSSDD, b.hayley, dja, tatz45

Voting
Total votes cast 167
hard E10 of 58
E10 of 58
easy E11 of 58
hard HVS31 of 58
HVS25 of 58
easy HVS1 of 58
hard VS0 of 58
VS0 of 58
easy VS0 of 58
hard 5b0 of 58
5b0 of 58
easy 5b3 of 58
hard 5a23 of 58
5a32 of 58
easy 5a0 of 58
hard 4c0 of 58
4c0 of 58
easy 4c0 of 58
3 Stars50 of 51
2 Stars1 of 51
1 Star0 of 51
0 Stars0 of 51
Bag of .....0 of 51
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 151 (0.7%)
Lead82 of 151 (54.3%)
Followed48 of 151 (31.8%)
Toproped1 of 151 (0.7%)
Alt Leads2 of 151 (1.3%)
Unknown17 of 151 (11.3%)

'Climbed'63 of 151 (41.7%)
clean O/S74 of 151 (49.0%)
clean β1 of 151 (0.7%)
clean rpt7 of 151 (4.6%)
dogged2 of 151 (1.3%)
dnf4 of 151 (2.6%)