Rockfax Description
24m. The crack that splits the enormous roof is a total gripper. The climbing is quite straightforward although mighty harassing and the route feels like E1. Climb to a sitting position on The Pedestal then step right and climb the short tricky wall to the roof (big sling on the massive spike of the Cheese Block). Lean right to get the first of the creaking juggy flakes then launch across these to the lip where solid jamming helps the pull over into the final easy crack. The old roof climbing adage of 'keep your feet on the rock at all costs' is worth bearing in mind. Photo page 67. © Rockfax

FA. Don "It's OK if you use yer loaf" Whillans 1954

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Hard Grit history, The Peak: past and Present, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, World Graded List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Get out on Rock, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Top Five HVSs In The UK?, Suggested routes stripes should do..., Roaches HVS Challenge, ULMC Classics, MUMC Ticklist.

TomatoPro 01/Nov Lead β
adam.wood 31/Oct Lead rpt
AndrewP 26/Oct Lead β

Intimidating, but the holds just get better and better the further out you go under the roof.

adam.wood 25/Oct 2nd O/S
alexspurling 25/Oct 2nd
stemill 25/Oct Lead
with Andy OB
Owen Diba 25/Oct Lead O/S
peaterpan 23/Oct Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for ages so felt really good ticking it!

Mark Grist 17/Oct Lead rpt
Stickle Tarn 17/Oct Lead O/S

"It's all there !"

steely 13/Oct 2nd O/S
owain-1978 13/Oct Lead O/S
Andy Smallwood 12/Oct 2nd rpt
mshorter 11/Oct Lead O/S
with steely, dunc
Hidden 11/Oct 2nd
Hidden 11/Oct 2nd β
ADConway 11/Oct Lead O/S
with Wrekin MC
birks3746 11/Oct Lead β
FlavioL1989 10/Oct Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Sep 2nd O/S
mark4344 28/Sep Lead rpt
with Michel
J_Trottet 27/Sep Lead O/S
with Hazel
Hidden 27/Sep 2nd β
Hidden 27/Sep TR
prcleary 27/Sep 2nd
with Chris
evans859 26/Sep Lead β

Exhilarating climb. Fumbled a bit with placing gear at the roof, but managed to squirm my way up it.

Martin Bagshaw 26/Sep 2nd rpt

Tom took about an hour to psyche himself up, then breezed it.

with Tom Hudson
Jackwd 19/Sep -
charley 19/Sep 2nd rpt
with JackD
Subwaycups 13/Sep TR O/S

Absolutely incredible route, must lead it next time!

Wizzy 11/Sep Lead O/S
KeenClimber 07/Sep Lead
with Jim Nutall
Mayaculpa 06/Sep 2nd
with Max, Alex
Horton 05/Sep 2nd β
TomRiddelsdell 05/Sep Lead β

Lead on Matt's gear. Easy climbing but quite exhilarating

with Alex Horton, Shane Williams, Matt Beals
islandlynx 05/Sep Lead β

On mattys gear

Hidden 05/Sep Lead
Matt77 05/Sep Lead β
with Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell, Shane
Jan.Hrb 30/Aug Lead O/S
Mark Grist 29/Aug 2nd
dobby 200 28/Aug Lead O/S
Rollo 19/Aug Lead

Three years on I have lead it! No dramas

with jsk
jennysknight 19/Aug 2nd dog
with Roly
Graham Baxter 19/Aug Lead
with John O'Grady
JenDurden 09/Aug 2nd
with Katie
katiep 09/Aug Lead β

Led with gear in-situ up to the roof, not sure I'd have made it otherwise! Definitely the steepest trad route i've done

with Amy Horton, Jen D
Amy Horton 09/Aug 2nd dog
dswansonlow 09/Aug Lead rpt
with Lisa
Jake Young 08/Aug 2nd rpt

so much fun!

Stroppy 08/Aug Lead rpt

Have seconded before, still very exciting climbing!

mikespooner 08/Aug 2nd rpt
dswansonlow 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Rodger Kirk
Hidden 06/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul 2nd O/S
garywong 18/Jul Lead O/S

My 700th logged climb! Went surprisingly smoothly and was over in a flash. Helps that from the pedestal you can see exactly what gear you need for the roof. Jeepers Creepers earlier in the year was good training, though much harder.

with Adam Ryan
Hidden 12/Jul 2nd dnf
bryce.dorin 12/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 11/Jul Lead O/S
lanky and weak 09/Jul Lead O/S
lee1234 05/Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Jul Lead β
Peter87 04/Jul Lead

Poorly placed nut popped out leaving roof crux unprotected. had to lunge twice before hitting marginal slopers. Learn to hand jam before leading again.

jon22 27/Jun Lead
MichaelConstantinou 27/Jun Lead O/S
Guss1 27/Jun 2nd O/S
sorchawilliams 27/Jun 2nd dnf
woody99i 26/Jun Lead O/S
with Matt Bell
mattshort 24/Jun Lead O/S
with Paul Griffiths
Dan724 21/Jun Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
samvick1991 18/Jun 2nd
lawlolly 18/Jun 2nd dog
Sam1991 18/Jun Lead dog

Brilliant route, not scary particularly as gear on lip is easy to place, but needed a rest before pulling over, tried to jam and missed huge holds. Great stuff :)

with Sam V, Lawrence H
guy757 11/Jun -
richshark 11/Jun AltLd

Second. middle man on rope, re clipping for learner to second again

Alex@home 09/Jun 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
codenamel 08/Jun Lead O/S
with Jared
Jordanh031 07/Jun Solo O/S
FlavioL1989 07/Jun Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #14

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun 2nd

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
ned_85 05/Jun Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 03/Jun 2nd rpt
with Alan James, Tom Ripley
Alan James - UKC and UKH 03/Jun Lead
FredTB 29/May 2nd dog
with Alistair Corbett, Dom Mackenzie
James Oakes 26/May Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May 2nd rpt
with noaks
albarnett93 23/May TR dog

Clean until overhang.

Kevster 23/May Lead rpt
rock_hopp5r 14/May Lead O/S

Awesome route

Chris_barr 10/May Lead O/S

Concentrating so hard on not being sick, can't remember a single move.

with Gus
Jacob Eagles 07/May Lead

5th attempt 3 days after failure. Even managed to get my stuck nut out afterwards.

DanChad 01/May Lead O/S

So glad to have done this route. It felt sustained but technically not to difficult.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 01/May 2nd
Psych ?/May Lead dnf
robertmichaeladams 25/Apr Lead


with Tim
Tim Rodgers 25/Apr 2nd
Andy Myers 20/Apr Lead

Seconded this a while ago, well worth the lead

Tricklebank 20/Apr 2nd O/S
BareBears 18/Apr Lead β

Finally got the tick :-)

with Guy, DW2
oread 18/Apr Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 16/Apr 2nd rpt
with Steve
stevoland 16/Apr Lead β

Jugs Not Jams! Jugs Not Jams!

A Crook 16/Apr 2nd O/S
NeilGriffiths 16/Apr Lead
with Adam
foostu4 14/Apr Lead O/S
ned_85 12/Apr Lead
Senna 12/Apr 2nd O/S
with Ned
lee1234 08/Apr Lead rpt
with HarryG
Mark Duncan 08/Apr Lead dnf

Boo, couldn't commit to roof, felt pumped and didn't fancy committing

pulseroom 07/Apr 2nd O/S


MarcinGobczynski 07/Apr Lead O/S
Paul Hy 25/Mar Lead dnf

got pumped!

with Harry G
lee1234 25/Mar Lead dnf
with HarryG
lee1234 25/Mar 2nd RP

worked up to over hang

with HarryG, Paul Hy
Matt Amos 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Dan Dry
Ben Cianchi 22/Mar 2nd O/S

Holed my climbing shoe on the second move, spent 15 mins trying to remove gear below the overhang

bantamdave 22/Mar Lead dog

A great day. Next time clean I hope. Fell off th last move through the roof !

with Steve Shorrok
AdrianP 22/Mar -
dandry 22/Mar Lead dog
with Matt Amos
Dexter JW 22/Mar 2nd O/S
Steve Shorrock 22/Mar 2nd dog
John Higgs 21/Mar Lead O/S
Albachoss 07/Mar Lead rpt
with Ed
jamesb101 07/Mar Lead β
Stroppy 07/Mar 2nd rpt

The Sloth!

Pete_Hamlin 07/Mar Lead
SaltyGhosts 01/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb Lead β
WeeLee 03/Feb Lead β

Wanted to do it for ages but thought it was beyond me, got mega pumped through the roof but felt amazing when I'd pulled through it to the top! Not as bad as it looks, just don't hang around when it starts getting steep!

Hidden ??/2015 -
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
rob 528 ??/2015 Lead O/S
StefanP ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Murilo Lessa 06/Dec/14 2nd β

Nice one, did not have time to lead myself.

with Alex Desborough
adam 24 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Stuart Johnston 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Gympaul ?/Nov/14 -
benkelsey 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S

warming up banter. so many jugs.

Jackwd 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Just fancied it and went for it! Great route!

charley 28/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Wanted to lead this but Jack got in there first. Didn't mind once I topped out though, just happy to have finally got on it...

with JackD
Steve Perry 26/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/14 Lead
marsden.d.paul 12/Oct/14 2nd dnf
with Emma Bain (AMC)
Caspian Johnson 12/Oct/14 Lead β
Nickfoulds 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Good way to scare the pants off yourself before starting the roof then finish feeling like a superhero!

with Cas
Henry.Todman 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Stuart William 11/Oct/14 Lead β

Was a bit apprehensive since the roof crack was dripping wet but all the flakes turned out to be dry. Big cam reassuring in top crack. Have inadvertently heard far too much about the route over the years to honestly claim the onsight.

with Mark
Hidden 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
druss 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Roberto Fernandez
poeter210 05/Oct/14 2nd dog
with argentinian machine
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
RichardLeggett 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Scared of this as it looks so intimidating. Followed the guidebook, hated every minute of it then loved the moment I pulled over. WIN!

AdamBrown 05/Oct/14 2nd
jkarran 28/Sep/14 TR

Retrieving the gear, great fun

with Czech Tom, Simon
mwwhale89 28/Sep/14 2nd dnf

Clean O/S until last handhold - three attempts to reach final handhold failed so lowered.

SEDaniels 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Phil Skurok
Rafal Malczyk 27/Sep/14 Lead dog

Great climb but I had no hexes. Therefore rested on the last nut before overhang. Than did overhang without any gear on it:)

with Claire Matthews
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Katsmiff 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

My first HVS lead. Wanted to do this climb for ages. After starting section, it was easy climbing up to the roof. Pull up effort required to get over the overhang. Number 9 hex comes in really handy.

with Justyn Philpot
Martin Bagshaw 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Passmore
clairemathews 27/Sep/14 2nd dnf
cragsman9000 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil
bob_cbr 25/Sep/14 2nd dog

On the roof section, a cam walked in and I required two hands+Nut key to remove, so needed to weight the rope. :-(

Theeni 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Joseph
jrccrosby 21/Sep/14 2nd β
scott quinn 20/Sep/14 Lead

the climbing's easy and highly entertaining jug pulling / swinging with really good gear. got above the roof and couldn't do the easy bit....due to slimey holds & jams

phildawson 18/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Shepherd
dean beer 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S

did the pedestal route hvd 4a.3c up to the pedestal from her on to the sloth the hard part is the launch out across on to the flakes on the the wide cracks ,as im only 5,7 the launch was the hard part ,to get a good hold ,

with Charlotte
cjsheps 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Kirill 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dina
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
slab_happy 13/Sep/14 2nd dog

With a lot of sitting on the rope at the crux, trying to retrieve a stuck cam ...

Stanners 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S

A lot lot easier than I anticipated. A truly spectacular pitch. BOMBER gear.

with Andy G
CreepingExcellence. 12/Sep/14 2nd O/S
vinspin 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with kaz, carl
arthur_de_briton 07/Sep/14 Lead
with Alex Pickard
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
andy_e 06/Sep/14 2nd dog
with Mike Gallimore
David Stevens 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Christina Holmgrun
Hidden 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Jamesmurphy448 02/Sep/14 2nd dnf
with Georgie Pugh, Joe Fraser
lizzieliveshere ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
AdamBrown 28/Aug/14 2nd

Bark is worse than its bite

Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead
Lukem6 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
marclloyd77 24/Aug/14 Lead β
with Daz, Richard Sanford
chris smith 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Not hard just committing, don't hang around!

cpforbes 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Down
Tim Rodgers 09/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead dog
soph 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt

10/31. Enjoyable jug-hauling. I'd wanted to repeat this for ages!

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead rpt

10 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
andy.smythe 21/Jul/14 Lead


Mike Turner 20/Jul/14 Lead β
with Chris Barber, Katie Barber
Mike Turner 18/Jul/14 Lead β
with Andy Smith, Martin Hore
martintom 12/Jul/14 2nd
theomoore 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Roisin
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead rpt
leon 07/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Alex
JulianB 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Paul O'Toole
martinov 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Briliantly led by Unai.

with Radoslav Savov
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Nick Sherring 28/Jun/14 2nd

getting wedged in nuts out on second is a pain in the preverbial

Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead dog
08nbrierley 28/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with jamie
NickyC 23/Jun/14 2nd
with Zain Karim
NickyC 23/Jun/14 Lead
with Zain Karim
benlatham07 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Senna 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Piers
Hidden 19/Jun/14 2nd
mrdigitaljedi 18/Jun/14 2nd

bloody good route, ballased the roof up, lowered to the pedastal, then got the needed hand jam 2 completion.................

with Paul Hy
Hidden 18/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

was a lot easy than i expected! and didn't need to jam.

with Chris K
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
matt1024 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing route!

hervenuttall ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Elliot
mcondon ?/Jun/14 Lead
elbeanio 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Imran
Hannes B 27/May/14 Lead rpt
with Binlid, Andrew & Emma W
morganator 26/May/14 -
fuzzysheep01 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Bryan M ?/May/14 2nd
leggy118 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Nice big jugs to help the overhang, classic

Sam Watson 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Needed to psyche up a bit for the roof but turned out to be a fun jug-fest.

JHC 20/Apr/14 2nd
switch 13/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Tim H
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
morganator 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
soph 11/Apr/14 Lead rpt
James_L88 11/Apr/14 Lead dog

Rested/fell at the lip. Finished it after rest.

with Kat Day
augustus trout 09/Apr/14 Lead
with Dave H
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead
jtree03 04/Apr/14 2nd
with Jim, Tony
jimbonfire 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Drew Bennett 30/Mar/14 2nd
MSchobitz 30/Mar/14 Lead β

Only carried the pieces Tom had used on his ascent. Placed a cam in the crack, down climbed, rested on the ledge and then finished the route.

with USMC
Teappleby 30/Mar/14 Lead

Amazing, took exactly the same gear as Anna, but couldn't make it fit so went up and down about 3 times, finally committed and found the climbing fun and easy. Which is just as well because when I pulled the ropes up the cam in the roof fell out! I knew it was the wrong size!

JakeWShaw 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Significantly more gripping on lead, well pleased though. The crux is committing to getting on what looks more scary than it is!

with Shaun
shaunhumphreys 29/Mar/14 Lead β

after watching jake do it i thought id go for the lead too, pretty terrifying deciding to get on it but the climbing is fine!

CarlaJG 29/Mar/14 2nd
with Jake
pete1993 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Katie
amccann 29/Mar/14 Solo O/S
switch 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with James
mickd 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

No point hanging around. Press on! Very straightforward really.

Ban1 ?/Mar/14 2nd dog
jcw ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
doogal2003 ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
jimxxx ??/2014 -
Anna duckett ??/2014 Lead
with Matt H
KiaranR 10/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Got over the lip ok, but panicked after the hard climbing. Fortunatly got it together before someone dropped a rope and got the tick. Lesson learnt take the right gear with you!

angus 04/Dec/13 -
with Philbert
James S 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S

huuuge jugs! intimidating to look at but very satisfying to climb, every hold bigger and better than the last!

with jack g
Mike Hood 25/Nov/13 Lead
with jordan
Jack93 23/Nov/13 Lead dnf
Ross.Cooper 16/Nov/13 Lead RP

Tried early on, jugs sopping wet, lowered off cheeseblock. Did in one go clean later.

Patrick Hill 16/Nov/13 2nd O/S
disturbed_one51 04/Nov/13 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 04/Nov/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Oct/13 -
jwhereat 06/Oct/13 -
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 -
dominic lee 05/Oct/13 Solo
Hidden 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/13 2nd β
JamesColeman 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

V.nice. Actually, I found getting off the ground really hard and poorly protected! Fine after that up to the pedestal. The massive overhang is very juggy. Wedging into the crack above the roof felt like the crux? Exciting stuff!

with Dean
Joe.Elliott1 28/Sep/13 Lead
1poundSOCKS 28/Sep/13 Lead β

Suprised how easy it was, and it wasn't even that scary, the holds are so big (*), although it is very steep for HVS. The hardest part is deciding to set off up the slab. (*) NO JAMMING REQUIRED!!!

Hidden 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 27/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Simon P
mark4344 27/Sep/13 Lead dog

sadly rested after pumping out with wrong size cam at crux. size 3 camalot too big.

with Matt Payne
ralphio 26/Sep/13 2nd O/S

No where near as hard as I thought it would be. The holds on the overhang are all massive. you just have to keep pulling.

mike lawrence? 26/Sep/13 2nd
with Ali
Ali.B 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Much better than i expected, fantastic route

with mikelawrence
Ali.B 26/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with mikelawrence
khalidq 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great fun. Tried getting a jam in before the exit but then found easy face holds. :)

Hidden 24/Sep/13 -
Hidden 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
egg-man 22/Sep/13 Lead β
with John Pickles
Bill Lawrence 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt

fell off this when i was about 12 on a top rope after my dad had been up on second. always been on the list to lead and so happy ive done it. really easy, quality climbing so i could enjoy every second of it. dad also finally led it after first seeing it 26 years ago.

with rob cooper, andy lawrence
Climbster 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Fabulous and straightforward climbing. Don't be intimidated by the angle.

with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 30/Aug/13 2nd β
with Matt
Mayaculpa 27/Aug/13 2nd

Awesome !!!Done without Jamming

Gudge 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Just brilliant - loved every minute of it. Managed to avoid jamming on roof too!

fifth 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Excellent grit HVS

with Ash
Bristoldave 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Caroline
Hidden 22/Aug/13 -
stuart34 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jake boi
yarrow 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Meg, Jake Lodge
thetradlad 11/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

so much fun

Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd dog
Calum Wadsworth 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Someone retreated off so I offered to lead it. Pulled ropes through and did it on there gear until to lip. Not technically hard just hard not to panic! well chuffed need to get the full tick one day.

with Steve D, Harrogate club
SPD224 27/Jul/13 2nd
Dave Reeve 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Nick_Merriman 26/Jul/13 Lead dnf
Nick_Merriman 26/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Jules_Julia 26/Jul/13 2nd dnf

Went to the Pedestal.

anguskille 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

it went nicely after i threw myself into it, great fun!

with Callum, Andy Myers
Dr Toph 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Somewhat intimitating but once you go for it its fine, just well steep!

with Emily
Velo Orange 22/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Toph
Andy Myers 22/Jul/13 2nd O/S
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Eagertom 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S


with Chris Butler
Mike Turner 20/Jul/13 AltLd dnf

2nd pitch - managed to place the gear but ran out of strength for next moves.

Mike Turner 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
zcsharp 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Camilla
Mattlamb90 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Absolulty mint

with Ryan
bede.west 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S


felixizzy 06/Jul/13 Lead dog

Had my heart going but the climbing's not that hard.

with Josh H
HAJ Francis 06/Jul/13 2nd rpt

After doing it on lead I decided to second it in flip flops, jolly good fun!

HAJ Francis 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Awesome! been on the tick list for a while. quite strenuous to place the gear so climbed up and back down for a rest on the ledge then over the top it goes :) great fun

matt0759 04/Jul/13 2nd
Camilla Mapstone ?/Jul/13 2nd
with Jamie
hellboundblr 29/Jun/13 Lead

Most nervous I have ever been before doing a climb, taken 4 years to pluck up courage. Bit damp in crack in roof, but all holds dry. Harder than expected to get on pedestal. Put sling on block and nut to keep it in. Went up to roof, lost manual dexterity but eventually managed to place cam, climb back down to slung block. Climb up and place hex next to cam, climb back down to slung block. Composed myself. Climbed back up to end of overhang, placed another cam past overhang and clipped rope, feeling very satisfied that if i cock it up now i will not break ankles hitting the wall below. Climbed on up through overhang with surprising ease on excellent hand and feet holds throughout. Don't remember any jamming through the overhang, seemed plenty of good holds instead. Fair at 5a, surprisingly.

with Adrian Jones
adrianj 29/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead
Chris Redding 27/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Finally got it. Should have gone initially. Fist jam at the lip is bomber and the hex is going nowhere.

Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead β
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Awesome, but bloody intimidating!

Dan Geh 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Goodstuff 08/Jun/13 2nd

Still found the lip dead awkward. Great lead by Iain, especially after his hex lifted out of the roof.

Ky 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Quality everything!

with Andi Turner
Pete Rigby 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Joe Rigby, Kelli Roberts
Maria Bechaalani ?/Jun/13 2nd
with Dougie
y2keable 05/May/13 2nd O/S

Seconded. Totally loved it, beautiful pitch. Can't wait to go back and lead it. Great holds, great protection and GREAT exposure. Perfect HVS!

stoo2k 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Finally plucked up the courage to try this after staring at it for about a year now! Fantastic climb, and not as 'ard as she looks. Spent five minutes back on the pedestal after faffing with a sling, before powering through the roof without too much over-thinking!!! JUST DO IT :)

with Mike H, James Beanie
jamesgodwin64 03/Mar/13 Lead rpt

2nd'd and loved it

jack adams ?/Mar/13 Lead
Stefan_Morris 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with jenny
Sophieeee 18/Feb/13 2nd
MichaelGallimore 17/Feb/13 Lead β

Amazing climb. Don't put gear in your handholds though- saw someone do this and it looked a right faff.

tcn_2002 17/Feb/13 2nd
RKirke 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Sam Husband 17/Feb/13 Lead dog

Fell at the lip because I an idiot, if the jams wet there are plenty of juggy options. BAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHH. (Make sure you place the sling well, the climber in front of me's sling blew of in the wind leaving him unprotected for the whole climb....)

with Ed
pearson9596 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Climbed with pre-placed gear. Jacob had just had a go at the E6 that goes off right and it would have been really awkward to not have used it.

with Tom Cod, Pete Hiscox
mikespooner 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Chris Smith
Tophe 16/Feb/13 Lead
with Mike
Will Hunt 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Pleased to do it in calm and cruisy style after years of pondering.

Albachoss 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Such a beauty of a climb, an unbelievable line through the steep roof.

Stroppy 16/Feb/13 2nd dog

Seconded Sam's birthday lead, couldn't get his nut out (don't worry we did rescue it eventually) then ballsed up the roof. So gutted. A short dangle and got through it fine.

jacobjacob 15/Feb/13 Lead rpt

At about 10pm with a headtorch, more scary than I was expecting!

Jen 'Banksy' Banks ?/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Stefan
Hidden 13/Jan/13 Lead O/S
jordan graham ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
David Woods ??/2013 2nd O/S

Lead by Ed Luke. Silvia didn't fancy the overhang

with Ed Luke
drysori 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
madasten 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Gaz
HarryB 18/Nov/12 Lead dnf
with Al
pc1983 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Great climb. Didn't really feel that bold to be honest. Bomber big nut in the back of the cheese grater before the roof, then just powered through and ran it out!

with alastair heggie
dj_brigham05 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
gazfellows 18/Nov/12 Lead

This route shouldn't have 3 stars.. it should have 5.! Another top class route by the mighty Dw

with Billy
pete87abs 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
georgeevans88 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
aipattison 26/Oct/12 2nd dog
PaulTanton 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Quite easy really

with Bruce Woodley
thomasmouse 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
grakgrak 12/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with duncan
grakgrak 12/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with duncan
Hidden 07/Oct/12 2nd RP
Hidden 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Pero 07/Oct/12 2nd
hlegge 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Epic route, looks soo impressive and down right intimidating. However nice rock up to an awkward move, then as got closer to overhang it opened up as holds became obvious. Felt pretty pumped so pushed through as fast as possible and suddenly you are over it! Awesome route

with Joseph Ward
Rollo 23/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Mike lead this one like a hero! Awesome climbing and not as difficult as it looks

with Mike
mike.moss 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ross brinson 22/Sep/12 Lead
with Hannah Watson
Fragmod 17/Sep/12 Lead
minaturechris 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
centurion05 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ian Llewellyn
beardlesssumo 09/Sep/12 2nd dog

with carl from newport rock.

with Carl
Tala M 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

What can I say other than fantastic route!! A bit intimidating looking up but once you get going you find the holds are actually all good

sparkass 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Andrew Wightman
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd dog
andrewwightman 09/Sep/12 2nd
with duncan campbell
Alex.M-M. 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
john lynch 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great fun

with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead
Haydn Jones 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd β
vassy05 ?/Sep/12 2nd
frume 31/Aug/12 Lead RP

since 2009 this has been bothering me, I fell about 18 foot from the lip with protection at the cheese block after burning out trying to fist jam. 2012, no fist jam and did it clean, even seconded it to get gear back, happy days.

GrantB 31/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 TR dog
lawlolly 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Amazing climb. Total head game.

Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Boran 11/Aug/12 2nd
JamieSparkes 10/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Woodiee 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Awesome... bit intimidating below the roof, but massive holds, awesome gear and a solid fist jam...suprised how easy it felt, possibley only 1 5a move - VS in a HVS situation

akhughes ?/Aug/12 -
steven24584 ?/Aug/12 -
sgl0jd 22/Jul/12 -
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
MD 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Was every bit as good as I expected. Hung around for a while on the roof finding the right sequence, placed two pieces of gear.

with Mark H
Harry Holmes 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Capewell
eloise 11/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Solo dnf
WillDoyle 27/Jun/12 Lead dog

Was wet and low visibility, couldn't see the roof from the ground. Fell off a lot, upside down.

deacondeacon 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
deklan 20/Jun/12 Lead
with mario
ladymuck 18/Jun/12 2nd dnf

Wussed out/myriad of excuses!

stevetheleg 13/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Not as hard as I expected - definite lead next time.

with Jay Conlon
Jay C 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Steve H
Hidden 13/Jun/12 Lead dnf
R2B 12/Jun/12 Lead β
clipskipper 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Not so tough as it looks :-)

with Andy Gardner
steve2006 27/May/12 Lead rpt

I been wanting to climb this for years. I was very nervous and fell on the first attempt but climbed it clean the second time! just relax, trust the fist-jam. Its juggy with great moves.

PeteWilson 25/May/12 2nd O/S

wish i wasnt injured so i could've lead this, awesome route!!

Hillson 25/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead O/S
Morwood 21/May/12 Lead O/S

Perfect highlight to a great day. Epic!

gillywillyhoo 21/May/12 2nd dog

Fell on the hand jam move right before pulling up to saftey :(, got there on the second attempt though. BEST CLIMB EVER!

MaccMark 20/May/12 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead O/S
jordan taylor 19/May/12 Lead O/S
Dean177 13/May/12 2nd O/S
Dibdawg 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Not nearly as bad arse as at looks!

Hidden 13/May/12 Lead RP
ranga 06/May/12 2nd
saffy 06/May/12 Lead O/S
davespider ?/May/12 AltLd
with mickey seule, jules mckim
mattnuttall ?/May/12 Lead rpt

MOB Whillans' Hut meet

with the MOB
climb the peak 28/Apr/12 2nd O/S

What a route, well done ben :)

BRoe 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Laurence Cowton 15/Apr/12 2nd

Made a complete mess of the overhang with very little footwork. Had to rest. Harder than other HVSs I've done.

with Job
Dickon151 13/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Epic climb! What an amazing line!

greenclimb 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
MarkRoe 05/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Cracking effort Matt!

matty123 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
andrew sandercock 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Terrified but fine. Awesome route fo' sure.

with robert sandercock
JimboWizbo 31/Mar/12 Lead β

Second attempt, clean, epic climb, wanted to do it a third time! Always place the gear

ipblake 31/Mar/12 AltLd

Jim lead to roof, then swapped. Repeated as second with Jim doing a clean lead. Great route!

with Jim
Matt Cooke 31/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Rosh
Double Knee Bar 29/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Took a whipper with my feet just at the lip, flipped upside down. Very pumped when reaching for jugs on the face. Pleased with the confidence I applied.

DaveMo 25/Mar/12 2nd

Loved it! Roof section really made my arms feel pumped. Would have struggled to lead this as it was hard enough trying to remove the gear.

Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead β
Hardcore Pat 25/Mar/12 Lead β
with Chris Vanderz
Chris Sansum 25/Mar/12 Lead dog

Ran out of steam after trying to place a big cam in the big pocket above the cheese block and flake. Mistake as only 2 of the 4 cam lobes would fit in! Got tired of hanging, so decided to let go. Big cam held, then ripped! Fell as far as the ledge, then got back on and completed the route clean. Good to finish it as I am crap at roofs! Want to do it again soon!

with Ramsey Villanueva
gavinpeach 24/Mar/12 Lead RP

took an epic fall from the nose after freaking out and ended up upside down half way down the Pedestal. Lowered to the ground and lead from scratch. 2nd time, was fine. Really positive holds once you commit.

Jake Young 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Nick
pete1993 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JakeWShaw 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Pete
Nick1812P 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt

2nded again as well.

stefie c 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Steve13 24/Mar/12 2nd β
clukins 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
David Shelmerdine 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Gavin Peach
alias dave 17/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Sam Simpson 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Found it quite intimidating, but it is very easy pulling on them jugs.

Andy Moles 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Malc
jack adams 12/Mar/12 2nd
phildavies84 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jack
Roberto 11/Mar/12 -
Shortarse.Crowley ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

great but scarily exposed :)

with Justin Critchlow
peteramsden ?/Mar/12 Lead

bloody awesome route!!

Steeve 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/12 2nd rpt
Dafydd Llywelyn 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Awesome... was told what gear. Thanks to Jacob for massive psyche and gear advice, while he was on Painted rumour; taking the attention off me.

Matt_L_Robinson 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

utterly classic and totally enjoyable =]

CragDog 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 25/Feb/12 Solo rpt
simeclimb68 19/Feb/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
Alex@home 15/Jan/12 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
Don Jebus 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Great fun, belayed with an italian hitch due to no belay device (tied right this time...)

funsized 08/Jan/12 Lead dnf

Damp and Hungover. Apparently The Sloth doesn't respect the fact its your birthday! First trad fall. A relatively unscathed monstrous 12 meters! Exciting.

matt perks ??/2012 -
maddy.c ??/2012 -
Sam Melville ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Mike Warner ??/2012 Lead O/S

Definite personal favorite!..

Tom Wayman ??/2012 2nd dnf

Must go back and complete!!!

Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2012 Lead

best done quickly, without thinking, and slightly hungover...

Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
gazfellows ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Dave Hill ??/2012 -
steven24584 ??/2012 Lead
Nick Russell 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S
timmyhobby 17/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 12/Nov/11 Lead dnf

didn't like the jam, placed the hex and downclimbed, bailed after i fell downclimbing a second time. getting the gear back was interesting

Steve Waters, Mynydd 06/Nov/11 AltLd

Mike led to the Pedestal. I led the roof. After many years of waiting, this superb climb did not disappoint. The shake-outs at the Cheeseblock and the big flake to its right were much better than expected leaving me fresh for the crux. The holds were big and positive. The main challenge was to choose a successful sequence from the many permutations available. The option I selected involved no jamming whatsoever by moving left a little along the lip flake (after inserting the obligatory Hex) and then a long reach with the right hand up to a juggy ledge. Celebrated sitting on the mat in the late afternoon sun eating Sushi and drinking Mike's real coffee. Perfect!

mtempest 06/Nov/11 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Cake 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Not hard. I was thoroughly psyched for this and the psych helped.

lewiz 29/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Backed off due to rain, had a take on cam in roof. Removed gear on downclimb

mishtu 29/Oct/11 2nd
with lewiz
Hidden 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S
James Oswald 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route, truly gripping. Got a bit cold at the cheese block so reversed back to the block. Struggled to get the hex to seat perfectly but it was a good placement. Pumpy and awkward top. Scary!

tom.ireson 25/Oct/11 Lead O/S

The crux of this route is definitely the psychological challenge of committing to the roof! once committed it's just fun all the way! Definitely ok to do as one pitch, barely noticed any drag but that was without placing any gear up to the pedestal. Anything before there would have to be well extended I think. Great route, well worth its reputation.

andrew hammond 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Woody
Bubba Waddy 23/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Dave Latimer 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
tompilgrem 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 22/Oct/11 Lead β

Dropped onto gear (large hex) trying to jam the top crack.Second attempt from pedestal got the sequence right (ignoring the jam !) and finished easily- pleased to have climbed at last but annoyed messing up the on-sight.

with Bob/Tom
Dan Geh 22/Oct/11 Lead dog

F**K!!!! wasn't feeling it today :( At least I managed to get 2 freshers up!

with Freshers
Stig 22/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Greg
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd rpt
s.c.white 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
gw3285 02/Oct/11 Lead
t8t9t8 02/Oct/11 2nd dnf
derek carter 28/Sep/11 -

Andy Moncrief and Derek Carter.I was elated to do this great glimb, after failing on it in the mid sixties with Dave Wood and John Smiler Davis.I think it`s a little harder since some of the flake has fallen off.It felt great pulling through this at 68.It was a long itch.Good pumpy moves,no jams,left hand stretch for small jug left of the crack.Thanks to Andy for the tightish rope.Give it the respect it deserves and regrade it E1.The Viliane was right.Use your head,plus your hands and feet.Awesome.The lumbago kicked in at the top.

MartinPL 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

The best grit route :)

peaker16 25/Sep/11 Lead
Dan Geh 22/Sep/11 2nd rpt

Almost just as good on second

tgeh 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt


with adam jordan, dan geh
bigdrew 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S

On Andys gear. Brilliant.

danny3007 18/Sep/11 TR dog
Alex Munnery 15/Sep/11 2nd
mark20 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
AMJ098 ?/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Nigel Bond 24/Aug/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
helios 21/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Simon_Letman 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not hard, just looks it. Brilliant to be able to climb something this angle at such an amenable grade.

with Si 2
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead β
Brannock 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Mega route, the holds are huge, crux was getting stood up once past the roof.

Jonny Nick 18/Aug/11 2nd β

A bit gutted i seconded this before leading it. Definitely a lead in the near future. Just a head game, the jugs on the overhang are brilliant.

with Viki
sgl0jd 17/Aug/11 -
Petarghh 09/Aug/11 2nd
antdav 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Almost bottled it as i couldnt get the jam, the reach was a bit slopey but managed to get verticle again. Awesome route

with Wayne
hotfeet 06/Aug/11 Lead
with Mac
waynem1985 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Wonderful clmbing, pleasent all the way up to the crux, and the sling just makes it feel uber safe. manged to pull up and get a hex in. and breezed over roof.

waynem1985 06/Aug/11 2nd rpt

Loved it so much i went for another go, and seconded Alan

stuaart 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Neil led. Bark definitely worse than bite. Top route though.

with Thomas Smith, Neil Redgrave
thomasaneurinsmith 05/Aug/11 2nd
with Neil Redgrave, Stuart Reeves
Bumblebee Biggs 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

menacing! first roof overhang lead!

Martin Davies 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

BRILLIANT route. Best I've done on grit so far.

with Tim Rogers
sputnik 02/Aug/11 Lead dog
littleluke ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
mattnuttall ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Matthew Tink Taylor
kermit_uk 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

AWESOME!!! Nuff said!

with Ian
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
robman 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
asmith37 30/Jul/11 2nd dog
Dan Geh 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Not as hard as it looks, but very intimidating. Best grit HVS?

tgeh 25/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Hidden 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
darlolad 18/Jul/11 Lead
Mitch1990 14/Jul/11 Lead β

Best climb ive done on grit to this date! Easier than I thought it would be. Don't get put off by its look, it stopped me doing it for over a year. Smashing route hit it with confidants and you'll be fine.

Spanner 14/Jul/11 2nd
darlolad 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
shafiq lalloo 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
berry 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Onion magnet 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S

A brilliant climb, not to hard either.

with Jack
jwpil 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Didn't place 'the' gear...massive holds. The jam is better than the jug if you know how, awesome!

with Mat
williamsd79 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Lee Wales
al99 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Chris Campbell, Luke Watts
HIGHTOWER 02/Jul/11 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Budge 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Stoff 28/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Got over the lip, after svereal attempts, but then had no energy to deal with the crack.

with gpcomps
Stoff 28/Jun/11 2nd dog

Could not get cam out from block which trapped the sling. Got so pumped trying to get this out that I needed a rest. Bit of a trauma really !

with gpcomps
gpcomps 28/Jun/11 Lead dog

Fantastic route, had to rest at the crux, but made it in the end

Fred_Richard 26/Jun/11 Lead dog

next time i do it clean! It was much easier than anticipated. Found the hardest was actually getting to the Sling placement. Rested on the cam above because too pumped fromm faffing with gear.

with Andy Mccoy, Kat
kat-lyle 26/Jun/11 2nd
with fred
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd dog
chrism225 19/Jun/11 2nd β

Second after not completing lead.

with shef tom
JRae 19/Jun/11 Lead

Felt a lot easier than expected. Huge holds and safe.

thomasadixon 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Chris, Johnny
matthewjames 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Alex Bashford
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
guy757 11/Jun/11 Lead
Frostie 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route through the roof, easier than expected (4c maybe?) well worth the 3 stars. I liked it that much I did it again.

Hidden 09/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S
TRFrost 05/Jun/11 Lead β
Julesthe1st 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Borne
elbeanio 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
np134 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with T. Frost, N. Howett
peeturd 05/Jun/11 Lead β

Epic climb, can't believe how easy it was after psyching myself out so many times!

with Chris Grant, Jim Lear
tomparrott 05/Jun/11 Lead
with DJ
deejmonkey 05/Jun/11 2nd
with Tom
craig naylor 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with nick
dangerousoldfool ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Budge
Phil PBC ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with henry castle
Kyle87 ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 31/May/11 Lead

Lovely stuff! Shame i was getting dripped on through the crack.

thetradlad 27/May/11 2nd RP
Lawrence Bird 27/May/11 Lead

burnt off jake, and stole his (shit) gear

bwestwood 25/May/11 Lead
Tom Stoddart 14/May/11 Lead

Climbed in gentle rain, which turned to heavy rain, then hail! Easier than it looks. But it looks pretty scary. Didn't place any gear above the cheeseblock, the holds were confidence-inspiring.

with Iain Leverett
willoates 05/May/11 Lead O/S

AMAZING! going to do it so many times :)

with Jim Burton
Mark Warnett 02/May/11 Lead β

pure climbing pleasure!

jon clayton ?/May/11 Lead rpt
chrissyboy ?/May/11 2nd
with Ruffio
simonward 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
JohnBear 28/Apr/11 Lead dog

fell twice. disappointed. mark belayed

JamieSparkes 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing, very intimidating before you set off from the pedestal though!

llamaglama 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Nick, Jam
Nick1812P 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf
MarkRoe 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

I've been wanting to do this since the last time I visited the roaches when this was well above me. Superb intimidating, pumpy and nervy fun.

Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
benwhit 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
terri mc 20/Apr/11 2nd β
with Justin Critchlow
highclimber 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route, not as hard as it is intimidating. Been trying to climb it for too long but things always stopped me, perigrines, greenyness and rain are the main culprits. will def do it again.

Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd O/S
rockman 19/Apr/11 2nd β

Superb lead from Ed. Worth every star

ed edwards 19/Apr/11 Lead
with rockman
Alistair Corbett 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt

2nd time just for laugh. great route!

with ben peake
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 10/Apr/11 2nd rpt

Did it barefoot this time, sort of made it easier i think, awesome situation hanging around at the lip of the roof barefoot :D

with David
Chi Cheng 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

What a route.

with Bart Harris
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Audrey @ The Castle 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd
vanderz 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Aid@n 26/Mar/11 Lead dog

Spent ages trying to clip cam then panicked at the lip and fell, lowered to ledge and got it easily. Oh well, will be back.

with Dan Stephens
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
crispyboy 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Lashlin
Graham Westbrook 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Tom Redmond 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route!

with jake young
groliver26 19/Mar/11 2nd

with geoff and jonny

Jake Young 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
rosh3000 02/Feb/11 -
Hidden ?/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/11 -
Hidden 29/Jan/11 2nd
dan-8990 20/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with AO
jon clayton 20/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with sasha
The Green Giant 20/Jan/11 2nd O/S

with Dan with the van
Hidden 03/Jan/11 Lead β
Hidden ??/2011 2nd
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Bob ??/2011 -
Dave Rumney ??/2011 -
ColinD ??/2011 Lead
Gareth H ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
adie84 ??/2011 -
ollie_e ??/2011 -
Andy Peak 1 ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 2nd dog
ndraper1 ??/2011 2nd
mark_chal 15/Nov/10 Lead O/S
jamesgodwin64 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Really cool. Managed to get two cams in before I got too pumped. Got a weird rest by squeezing all limbs into the crack just before the final moves. Loved it

chris_whitehead1898 ?/Nov/10 Lead
andysroom ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Emma
Abevan 24/Oct/10 -
with james walker
Andrew Abraham 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
ig248 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Shane
monsteratt 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Felt quite intimidated despite being on second. The roof itself was straightforward with jugs in all the right places. The wall above a tricky awkard move.

with Andy Reyner, Andrew Abraham
Andrew Abraham 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

At last, lived up to expectation, and it was jugtastic, happy days.

Hidden 24/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/10 2nd O/S
sam820 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Terry
rustaldo 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S

awesome climbing.. kit learnt about heel hooks the hard way

Danny Crump 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
LiL Saz 12/Sep/10 2nd
Phill Mitch 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with bleggs
grp 01/Sep/10 Lead

no need to jam

grp 01/Sep/10 Lead

no need to jam

Daniels735 31/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Chris lead it. Seconded it without any problems. Quite honestly a brilliant climb. Looks intimidating from the ground but the overhang gives in surprisingly easily with great holds.

with Clair Fowler, Chris Waters
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
al99 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Spidermunkie 22/Aug/10 Lead dog

Took for ever putting a new sling over cheeseblock, started up the flakes and was extremely pumped... off I came, rested on Pedestal then finished the climb

riddle 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S


Laurence Everitt 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 11/Aug/10 2nd rpt
rylett 11/Aug/10 Lead

Rested on cam midway through roof

climbinmunkey 03/Aug/10 Lead β

Have seen this climbed on Neil G's DVD so I didn't take the full onsite. Much easier than expected; didn't jam at all on the overhang just did an offwidth to get through the top part of the crack. Super position, great climb.

with Ken
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Noodles30 ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
adamwesthead 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Hoult, Zeb
zebster 23/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Nick, Adam
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
grubes 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice climb a lot easier than it looks.

with Nick
willworkforfoodjnr 02/Jul/10 Lead β

Dithered for a while before finally committing.

Shorty83 02/Jul/10 2nd dnf

Choked on the overhang. Next time...

with Giles
coombsy ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Awesome. The feeling after this one stuck with me for days...

with Rich G
Gigga ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

nearly cryed at the top!

with Jamie Kean
Jim Slater 26/Jun/10 2nd rpt
becster 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Excellent, a bold lead for Mark, a really nice second for me!

RFWilkie 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Martin Cleaver 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
sgl0jd 12/Jun/10 Lead
Jacqui Parker 12/Jun/10 2nd
with Stu Burbidge, James Dexter
williamsd79 ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
saalty ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with eddy, colin
lukea ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with dan, Al
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
sam corbett 30/May/10 Lead β

Pretty epic :)

with Alistair Corbett
siah 25/May/10 Lead rpt
with collin
Spidermunkie 25/May/10 2nd rpt
Spidermunkie 25/May/10 Lead rpt

A friend couldnt finish the route, I lowered him off then finished the route on his pre-placed gear up to Cheeseblock

Shad 23/May/10 2nd

Gutted to have sat on the rope. Need to get better at jamming. Superb route.

Jon Dittman 23/May/10 Lead

A good climb to warm up on... NOT! I found the roof more intimidating to look at from the ledge than to climb. A cheeky rest on the rope did not take anything away for me. Got the jam which is excellent!

Glyn Davidson 22/May/10 AltLd dog

Took a fall unable to get the jam to stick after turning the lip. Bomber hex in place though so fall was uneventful. Glad to get on and have a go though, I'd looked up at this route on my previous two visits and thought better of it.

with Ali
Ali H 22/May/10 AltLd

Ali first pitch Glyn second pitch

with Glyn
Diggler 21/May/10 Lead O/S

Should have lead this when hvs was my limit. Still an excellent climb.

with Johnny
Spidermunkie 21/May/10 Lead O/S

My most exciting climb to date, Bomber gear, Sod placing any kind of pro in the Lip, if you've got that far, just go for it

westaway 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead O/S
Misha 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Have been wanting to do this for a long time but had never quite got round to it previously (excuses, excuses!). The route didn't disappoint. Proved easier than it looked from the Pedestal, which is just as well!

with Paul
Mike Hegarty 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Looks nasty but it aint..!

with Lee
Pay Attention 15/May/10 2nd
with Misha
Ztephan 10/May/10 Lead O/S

My first grit lead, obviously I'm hooked now.

with Jim
jacobjacob 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 08/May/10 Lead O/S

most exciting lead to date! some good positive holds but pretty intimidating.

with ben peake
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
chedder 02/May/10 2nd
williamsd79 01/May/10 2nd O/S
ciaran1999 28/Apr/10 Lead
with saul
Souljah 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S


Hidden 27/Apr/10 TR
Alex Thompson 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Should have lead it...

with Eddy
Oliver Houston 24/Apr/10 Lead β

Steve did 1st lead, pulled the rope and lead on his pre-placed gear

Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd β
manwithacam 19/Apr/10 2nd

Really enjoyed seconding this. Wasnt up for leading it and got to experience it withhout the full on gripping effect. Not sure at what point Don Whillans had to use his loaf tho!

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr/10 Lead dog

That bloody jamming move to get out of the roof got me.

blueroly 17/Apr/10 2nd dnf

Bottled the overhang... I'll do it by the end of the summer.

with Oleg Makarov
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
davewsargent 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
mic_b 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Fantastic day!

with Michelle
Adam Potter 17/Apr/10 2nd
with Sari
Double Knee Bar 12/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Nathan, Iain
JCB42 06/Apr/10 Lead dog

Completed the overhang, fell with feet over the lip down to the pedestal. - Few stood back on pedestal, shook out and completed it. :)

jkarran 04/Apr/10 Lead

Surprisingly amenable and not too intimidating up close. Pleased to have this ticked

with Matt
mattyork2 04/Apr/10 2nd
hilty ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

easy easy easy

peaches69 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S

loved it, trick to this route is not to think about it too much before you get there or you will bottle it, like me an some of my friends have done many times before!!!!! plenty of gear in it and stopped to place it. nice and easy, just takes balls

with dan abbat
Hidden 23/Mar/10 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 2nd rpt
roberts1234567890 12/Mar/10 2nd
with Jamie Hawton
rikbattye ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
nickmattia ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Epic. One of the best! Get up there and get it done.

jimmatthews 20/Feb/10 Lead
with Gav
shark 11/Feb/10 2nd
with Jen and Mike from Nottingham
GF ??/2010 -
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
Lunar25 ??/2010 Lead β
andyob ??/2010 Lead O/S

lead on pre-placed gear, turned it in a nice sports route

with Diggler
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Ade P ??/2010 Lead
clair.fowler ??/2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
geddicakes ??/2010 Lead β
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Drew M ??/2010 Lead
chris fox ??/2010 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 17/Nov/09 2nd
with David Haygarth
ciaran1999 09/Nov/09 2nd
with saul
sce8 07/Nov/09 Lead dnf
with Neil Howett
ccraigg22 28/Oct/09 AltLd dog

I seconded the crux

with Nick
Hidden 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S
toasted 25/Oct/09 Lead
with Simon Whitehead
masa-alpin 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely awesome! Forgot to take a long sling, so placed a nut. I got tired in the process and so climbed down to the ledge to have a rest to recover. The strategy worked well -- well, for me at least, while Tony experienced a nightmare to retrieve the nut. Sorry!

with Tony H
jandyd05 23/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Quick dash to the Roaches after work - rewarded with a class climb ! Quite strenuous over the overhang (which is the move on the climb rest is easy) >90 degree bodyposition while heel hooking is not usual HVS fayre anywhere apart from grit (!) though Simon seemed to manage to do by jamming rather than hanging - grit monkey !

with Simon Cox
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with loundsy
simonw1 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Allan Watson
d_meacher 11/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Hazel
mlmatt 11/Oct/09 2nd
with Dan Masterman
snakebite 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Silum 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Intimidating route to set off on, and super intimidating leaving the ledge. A wild and classic route.

with Carl
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Ran out the start, placed the odd bomber up to the sling on the block. Reversed to the ledge, shook out the pump, then blasted through the roof. Awesome route, never in doubt. All good prep for Quietus…

with Smudge
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
superturbo 20/Sep/09 Lead
PeteH 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ndp 15/Sep/09 2nd
melonmike 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
david morse 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with mikey+em
Em66 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Mike, Morse
Solcambs 12/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Into the overhang with great protection below me with a sling and a runner ... making good into the upper crack when feet cut loose - no option but to spot for a landing and let go as no amount of flailing was going to help find some footing. The slab below hyperextended my foot as I landed, and I limped off thoroughly gutted I had had to bail. A long walk to the car (ouch that really did hurt) and a visit to A&E the following day confirmed the worse! Still crutches are good for upper body strength, right?

richardhopton 07/Sep/09 Lead rpt


with Tradmania
joese7en ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 16/Aug/09 Lead dog

Seriously intimidating ... hung on gear a lot but very happy just to get up it.

with Trevor Wilson
KeithW 02/Aug/09 2nd dog

Needed a tight rope at the crux.

with Kev Bowser
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd
quiffhanger 27/Jul/09 Lead
Mr Wild 15/Jul/09 Solo
areeves 12/Jul/09 Lead β
with Andy
mlmatt 12/Jul/09 Lead β
with Paul
Hidden 01/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/09 2nd dog
D-Si 24/Jun/09 2nd
with Dominic Bridgewood
Graeme Hammond 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt

As good as before, my arms didn't feel as strong but then it was the first route of the day and i hung around to put a 2nd runner in other than the cheese block this time which got in the way of the nice hand jam!!

with Shane
JWB 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Yes !!!!

with Mark Anstey
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead dog
sgl0jd 13/Jun/09 Lead β
grakgrak 13/Jun/09 2nd dog
with duncan
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead β
smudge 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Rob
ShaneHoubart ?/Jun/09 2nd
Gandy ?/Jun/09 Lead dog

Nice whipper off the overhang - suddenly forgot what I was doing! Glad for the friend in the pocket

Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Byronius Maximus 30/May/09 2nd O/S

Climbing was easier than I expected it to be, probably a different proposition on the lead though.

Twisty 30/May/09 Lead O/S

Upside down VDiff

with Byron Buck
CharlieMack 25/May/09 2nd O/S
with Matt Watkins
Bennykr 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Amazing Climb

with JB
Bennykr 24/May/09 2nd rpt

So gud that i went up again, but mainly to get gear out for someone esle!!

with Matt
Jillybean 24/May/09 2nd
with Ben
mattnuttall 24/May/09 Lead
with Alan Holden
Irn Bruce 23/May/09 Lead O/S

Found this easier than I expected. The hard part isn't getting over the lip (jugs galore) but protecting yourself once over, arm-jam whilst fiddling with my no. 4 friend was a bit hair-raising!

CharlieMack 02/May/09 Lead rpt
with Janek Mamino
gnc760 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Rose Williams
Rose Williams 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Gareth
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead β
JonBrown 25/Apr/09 2nd dnf

Easy slabby cracks, creeky holds broke my nerve

with Tiff
TiffTiff 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Jon Brown, Steve M
CharlieMack 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with William Harling
Andrew Sloan 19/Apr/09 Lead rpt
liamoloughlin 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Very intimidating stood underneath the overhang, but good holds.

with B Sosin
mr random 13/Apr/09 2nd dog
with Rob L
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 13/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with michael porter
Martin Haworth 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S


with Marek
GPN 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Annette
aspyrex 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
liamoloughlin ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd
nige 20/Feb/09 Lead
with john reti
popov86 03/Jan/09 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Peter Rhodes ??/2009 -
jiles 31/Dec/08 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 31/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Tez29 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden ?/Nov/08 2nd
teflonpete 19/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Fell off at the first roof flake and bashed my wrist. No more climbing that day

with Tom
clive-greenwood 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Mark PJ
Joris.Roulleau ?/Oct/08 TR
with Mike McKenna
HamishD 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with vince vahinsberg
vvanhinsbergh 27/Sep/08 AltLd

lead pitch 1 (only VD mind)

siah 24/Sep/08 2nd β
with gavin nixon
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
DrIan 20/Sep/08 Lead dog

First time stuffed up getting over the lip of the overhang. Down climbed a bit and dropped to the slab, sprained ankle. Stayed on then went again put a small friend in at the start of the roof and then did it in much better style.

with Scott & Rachel
nickwhimster 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Matt Barnet
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd β
sonaf 23/Jul/08 TR
with Malc
C.J.Horsfield 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with paul
Hidden 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
DeniseWootten ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Luke Walsh, Umbreen Ahmed, Paul Hendry
skittles 09/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with will johnson, dave mason
lukewalsh ?/Mar/08 -
feilx 23/Feb/08 Lead rpt

Moonlight ascent, 2am, amazing

with Dave M
dmoir 23/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Awesome, all the chalked up holds light by moonlight!

Hidden 14/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Reasonable climbing at the most unlikely angle for the grade. Some awesome thigh jams past the lip. Bog standard HVS.

with Robin
sadams 09/Feb/08 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
alexharv3y 27/Jan/08 Lead dnf
areeves ??/2008 2nd β
with Andy
Hidden ??/2008 -
ian storey ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Goose4 ??/2008 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Intimidating stuff, the best hand and foot holds on any route ever!

PanzerHanzler 08/Sep/07 2nd
with Simon Chandler
Different Steve 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

What a route!

with Clio
Clee 08/Sep/07 2nd
with Steve
MikeLeeds 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Mike who i met at the bottom went first and placed all gear, fell off, i lowered him down and he let me have a crack using his preplaced gear.

with Mike who i met at the bottom
bfreeman ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
tskelhon 13/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with luke evans
Graeme Hammond 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
jchenoweth 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Joe
Shaw Brown 03/Aug/07 Lead
with David Jones
Marvino 01/Aug/07 Lead

Put a sling on the block then went for it. Much easier than I thought it would be, especially once you get your feet on the flake. Wouldn't have liked to hang around putting in gear.

with Mark
TomHaigh ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Ryan Jones
twodada 28/Jul/07 2nd
with Paul O-T
Hidden 17/Jul/07 2nd
richardhopton 09/Jul/07 2nd
Phil Jennings 08/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Matt Burdekin
Hidden ?/Jul/07 2nd
Goody 19/Jun/07 2nd dnf
with Mark Ford
Jon_Warner 08/Jun/07 2nd dog

Got the sequence all wrong.

with Jonny
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
derico 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Alex M
wirralclimber1984 01/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with dave body
centurion05 ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S

easy HVS

with Stu Harth
Stig 29/May/07 Lead rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead O/S
skittles 23/May/07 2nd dog

Seemore (Gareth) lead the route clean, with a few down climbing rests so to get the gear in the overhang and i 2nd him with one hanging rest stop near the lip because i got pumped from unfortunatly fiddling with sling lol, was an awesome climb though, big adrenelin rush.

with Gareth Watkins
AngelaC 07/May/07 2nd
with Pete
Morgan Woods 05/May/07 Lead O/S

Quite pumpy but great gear and exposure. Def don't want to hang around too long placing gear.

with Gareth
flyboy86 ?/May/07 Lead dnf

Climbed to the lip hung around too long, so down climbed for a rest, went for it again and dropped! landed on my knees...nice!

with Nick (kendogcatchy)
kendogcatchy ?/May/07 2nd dnf
with Dave Clarke
Hidden ?/May/07 2nd O/S
Steerpike 17/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Tommo
Hidden 15/Apr/07 2nd
tatz45 10/Apr/07 Lead O/S

In the dark!

with Quentin O'Brien
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
drop dead fred... ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
eley1 ?/Apr/07 2nd
with graham
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
daza 31/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Ash
jonnyboy 23/Mar/07 Lead O/S

awsome, hardwork after the roof pulling into the crack

Hidden 02/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd
Ben1983 03/Feb/07 Lead dog
alaan 03/Feb/07 Lead rpt

Night ascent...

with Chris
Mike W ??/2007 2nd RP

very nics

markvr ??/2007 Lead O/S

easier than it looks. getting over the intimidation is the hardest part. just go fast, bang the cam in the break, and then wedge yourself in the offwidth above and get your breath back....

deanroberts ??/2007 Lead O/S
deanroberts ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
tommytuffa ??/2007 -
DannyK 25/Dec/06 2nd O/S
sgl0jd 21/Dec/06 Lead
with Tom Devas
russonly 03/Dec/06 Lead dnf
daza 03/Nov/06 Lead dog
with Nick C
Hidden ?/Nov/06 Lead
dycotiles 14/Oct/06 Lead β

Just brilliant!

with Duncan
AJ007 08/Oct/06 Lead
with Dan
dan gibson 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
tumbling wizard 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with andrew marshall
OffshoreAndy 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with UKC Jeremy
Ed Booth 05/Sep/06 Lead O/S

The flakes are dead scary - i thought they were going to come off. Nice easy route though in one hell of a position. Got to be one of the most intimidating climbs.

with Roel Driesen
Hidden 15/Aug/06 Lead O/S
juza 13/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/06 Lead β
bigie bob 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
ChrisBrooke 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 21/Jul/06 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Jul/06 Lead
givemetea ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Pythonist 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Wonderful - Severe for 20m followed by a fun V1 boulder problem with perfect fall-out. And you don't have to jam!

with Cathy Lane
Hidden 28/May/06 2nd dog
Hidden 11/May/06 Lead O/S
spacey 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Roch 22/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar/06 Lead
climbingrick 01/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Jack Symmons ?/Mar/06 Lead

Only slung the cheese block. Starteed to work off higher up.

with Chris T
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead O/S
jamesturnbull ??/2006 -
Billg ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Netgear7 ??/2006 2nd O/S
Holly R ??/2006 2nd
with Jorg
Hidden ?/Dec/05 Lead dog
Si dH 20/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tom Lambert
Hidden 04/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher ?/Sep/05 Lead β
with Steve Elliff
just one more 04/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with chris nunn
LoopyLou ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

An impressive climb that captures the imagination. Definitely not your average HVS, although it is friendly. Should be in the top 50 climbs. Relatively easy moves through the roof. The big question is whether you protect the roof, with potential to pump out placing gear, or risk a nasty fall. I didn't, and conquered.

with Helen Lear
will_benfold ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

First HVS lead.

lost.arrow 22/Jul/05 -
with Isabelle Membrez
Stig 08/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
Katex ?/Jul/05 Lead dnf

I fell off the top move, 10 metres to slam into the slab below. Broke my heel, but not my resolve, and haven't been able to climb for a while now, but soon I hope! At least my pro held...I will be back

with Simon Edwards
Mat J ?/Jun/05 Lead
philhilo ?/Jun/05 Lead rpt

First fell off this several times as a teenager - 16, from the lip, ouch! Took 25+ years and leading E4 to come back to it!

chrishedgehog 15/May/05 Lead O/S
with Will Parsons
DavidR 14/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/05 2nd O/S
jparry75 ?/May/05 Lead
with emlyn
Mark A Humphries 19/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with gary wood
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead β
benjhans ?/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with Dan Braund
Hidden ??/2005 -
matt30987 ??/2005 Lead RP

My best onsite and was a turning point for me, since doing this i started climbing harder and more frequent.

with Dad
Kevster ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Lawrence Eccles ??/2005 2nd O/S
with John, A. Crook
Hidden 31/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Mark Brightwell 31/Oct/04 2nd

Chris Warner lead

Jez 16/Oct/04 Lead O/S
chris warner ?/Oct/04 Lead
with sandhurst
donkster ?/Sep/04 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
johnboyrevel ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Sam
cem 23/May/04 Lead β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 22/May/04 Lead O/S
brian watson 02/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rodney Fewins
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Tim Steward 24/Apr/04 Lead
with Nick Lambert
ASchwirtz 24/Apr/04 Lead O/S
shoulders 06/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2004 -
mbutton ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Tris Fox
RossG ??/2004 -
nickdonohue ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 26/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Lev 18/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Spen
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead
jimshrimp 16/Sep/03 Lead

Day off sick from work, peer encouragement, worthy of 3 stars plus!

Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/03 Lead O/S
jamiev ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with Adrian Berry
jamieevans ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/03 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2003 Lead O/S

surprisingly i don't remember much from this climb. It was my first route at the roaches. Remember being daunted under the roof but it went surprisingly easily considering 'i can't hardly climb'.

with Andy Reeve
Brian Rodgers ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Dave Malia
unfit ??/2003 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
petekeron ??/2003 Lead O/S
soph ??/2003 -
Hidden 18/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 16/Feb/02 Lead dog
with Neil Henson
Hidden ?/Feb/02 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
VPJB ??/2002 -
Gus ??/2002 -
cem 23/Sep/01 Lead dnf
lost.arrow 03/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Charlie Staincliffe ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/01 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/01 Lead
Milne ??/2001 Lead dnf

been out on the roof twice now, lack of commitment/bottle/strength to pull over, even with ok friend placed.

Jon Read ?/Nov/00 Lead O/S
with Graham Hewitt
Hidden ?/Oct/00 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Laramadness 30/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Rich Malcolm 01/Apr/00 Lead dog
with Adrian Perry
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
kato'sdad ??/2000 Lead
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
RobSimmo ??/2000 2nd
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2000 Lead O/S
antroy 15/May/99 2nd
Hidden ??/1999 2nd
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
ste_d 01/Aug/98 2nd O/S
with mik
CrashMat Rob 09/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dan, Nicky
Mark Riley ??/1998 AltLd
with Richard Ibberson
BruceW ??/1998 Lead dog
with Keith S.
Hidden 10/Sep/97 2nd
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jun/97 Lead


with Richard Bower
skygodley 15/Feb/97 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 26/Jan/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Sep/96 2nd
with Al Willoner
Hidden ?/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 13/Jul/96 Lead
D Tempest 06/Jul/96 2nd
with Rick
WB ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Guy
phardman 12/May/96 Lead
with Jon Bibby
Bruce Kerr 12/May/96 2nd
with Graham Stein
Hidden 29/Jun/95 Lead
Marti999 ??/1995 Lead
richiebongo ??/1995 Lead O/S

With Ian sometime in the 90's.

robtrooper ??/1995 -
jparry75 ?/Sep/94 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/94 TR
michael burrows 24/Apr/94 AltLd rpt
with martin ackerley
IanGilbertJones 17/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/93 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/93 2nd dog
Hidden ??/1993 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Mick King 30/Jul/92 Lead
with Simon Walsh
stokienomad 14/May/92 Lead
andrew300169 01/Apr/92 Lead dog

Completely bottled it

with Tim
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
nai ??/1992 Lead
channinga ??/1992 -
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 18/Sep/91 2nd
NickJH ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with NBarrowclough
Hidden 20/Jul/91 Lead rpt
SimonN 10/Jul/91 2nd
whispering nic 29/Jun/91 Lead
with noj
Hidden 25/May/91 Lead dnf
adi bryant ?/Apr/91 AltLd O/S

Started 2nd pitch in glorious sunhine, finished it in half an inch of snow!I wasn't that slow surely.

with chunky Dave
Nigel Coe ??/1991 Lead
Hidden ??/1991 2nd
Roget 10/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with jim
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
Nigel Coe ??/1990 2nd
with Tim Dunsby
Hidden 17/Jun/89 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 03/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden 20/May/89 AltLd
Sean Kelly ?/Jan/89 Lead

Snow on the ground and -5, but I was determined to do the route.As I started up someone mentioned that a Friend 2 1/2 fitted perfectly in the slot. It didn't, so I wasted time & strength. My tape over the block slipped off as I reached the lip and then my foot slipped, so I was hanging from one hand. Shouted for a mate to get a photo then finished the route. Belayer Joan too cold to follow, so Alan dropped his camera and tied on with glee!

with Alan Payne
Gambit ??/1989 -
with Barney
tlr ?/Jun/88 TR
with Fin and Nick
SPD224 ?/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden 22/May/88 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/88 2nd
steve taylor ??/1988 Lead O/S

One of my milestone "ticks". Felt I could call myself a proper HVS leader after this.

with stumpy
Hidden 01/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 19/May/87 Lead rpt
with Richard Twinning
Neil R 07/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Sharon
RichardMc 27/Jul/86 2nd
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Hairy Welshman ??/1986 2nd dog
Richard Weller 22/Sep/85 2nd
with Ant Osborne
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 2nd RP

failed leading it.. fell off the lip knackered. managed to just get up it seconding Graham then went down with nasty cold/flu thing next day. shame, great route.

with Graham Aveyard
shark 02/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Phill Dickens
Gezzer ??/1985 -
Nevil ??/1985 -

Do not know year

Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
John Marsland 24/Nov/84 Lead
with Dave Mould
andy gittins ??/1984 -
timbanton 30/Oct/83 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/83 Lead
stp 08/Jun/83 Lead rpt

had failed on at lip previously. Perhaps the finest HVS on gritstone.

Mark Kemball 08/Mar/83 2nd
with Johnny Dawes, Bill McKee
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead
with Merv Dudley
Hidden 30/Oct/82 2nd
charlesmfrench 18/Apr/82 Lead O/S

Jerremey Wriggley

Hidden 27/Aug/81 Lead
Andy Stephenson 23/Aug/81 Lead O/S
Hammy 24/Jul/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
MikeDowsett ??/1981 2nd

Feet cut loose at the lip, but held it on jams and heaved upwards.

Hidden ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding ??/1980 TR
with Mike Gilbert
Hidden ??/1980 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/79 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 11/Nov/78 Lead O/S
with Gavin Peat
Chris Ellis 18/Sep/77 2nd
with Tony Kartawick
Chris Terrey ??/1977 Lead
with Ken Taylor
RichardMc 05/Sep/76 Lead O/S
with Tony Williams
GeoffG 26/Jul/75 2nd
with tony bowker
Mark Kemball ??/1975 Lead
with Ian Grace
petemeads 08/Oct/74 Lead
Rog Wilko ?/May/71 2nd
with John Yates
uphillnow ??/1970 Lead

Done regularly through the 70's and 80's incl june 1980 and 1984

with Al Bennett
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
mikej 26/Feb/67 Lead
with Mike Byles, Rick Naylor, Geoff Williams
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 270
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 343
Votes cast 313
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set