Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
The Sloth*** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Loculus Lie
 
Central Route >>
[hanging on the Sloth, 1 kb]24m. The crack that splits the enormous roof is a total gripper. The climbing is quite straightforward although mighty harassing and the route feels like E1. Climb to a sitting position on The Pedestal then step right and climb the short tricky wall to the roof (big sling on the massive spike of the Cheese Block). Lean right to get the first of the creaking juggy flakes then launch across these to the lip where solid jamming helps the pull over into the final easy crack. The old roof climbing adage of 'keep your feet on the rock at all costs' is worth bearing in mind. Photo page 67. © ROCKFAX
FA. Don "It's OK if you use yer loaf" Whillans 1954

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Hard Grit history, The Peak: past and Present, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement.

Photo: hanging on the Sloth © un sure
View all 47 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 779 logbooks, and on 433 wishlists.

Finally plucked up the courage to try this after staring at it for about a year now! Fantastic climb, and not as 'ard as she looks. Spent five minutes back on the pedestal after faffing with a sling, before powering through the roof without too much over-thinking!!! JUST DO IT :)
stoo2k - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Mike H, James Beanie

2nd'd and loved it
jamesgodwin64 - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/13

jack adams - Lead - Mar/13 with phil davies

Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with jenny

Amazing climb. Don't put gear in your handholds though- saw someone do this and it looked a right faff.
MichaelGallimore - Lead β - 17/Feb/13 with Andy Hawkins

tcn_2002 - 2nd - 17/Feb/13

Roger Kirke - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13

Fell at the lip because I an idiot, if the jams wet there are plenty of juggy options. BAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHH. (Make sure you place the sling well, the climber in front of me's sling blew of in the wind leaving him unprotected for the whole climb....)
Sam Husband - Lead dog - 17/Feb/13 with Ed

Climbed with pre-placed gear. Jacob had just had a go at the E6 that goes off right and it would have been really awkward to not have used it.
pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Tom Cod, Pete Hiscox

mikespooner - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Chris Smith

Tophe - Lead - 16/Feb/13 with Mike

Pleased to do it in calm and cruisy style after years of pondering.
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13 with John Puddephatt

Such a beauty of a climb, an unbelievable line through the steep roof.
AlexanderRyanBanks - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13

Seconded Sam's birthday lead, couldn't get his nut out (don't worry we did rescue it eventually) then ballsed up the roof. So gutted. A short dangle and got through it fine.
Edward Hastrop - 2nd dog - 16/Feb/13 with Sam Husband

At about 10pm with a headtorch, more scary than I was expecting!
jacobjacob - Lead rpt - 15/Feb/13

dlyonsewing - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Peter Stanworth

Seconded. Totally loved it, beautiful pitch. Can't wait to go back and lead it. Great holds, great protection and GREAT exposure. Perfect HVS!
Jayson Keable - 2nd O/S - 2013

Wil Treasure - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12

madasten - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Gaz

HarryB - Lead dnf - 18/Nov/12 with Al

Great climb. Didn't really feel that bold to be honest. Bomber big nut in the back of the cheese grater before the roof, then just powered through and ran it out!
pc1983 - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with alastair heggie

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Pete Abernethy

This route shouldn't have 3 stars.. it should have 5.! Another top class route by the mighty Dw
gazfellows - Lead - 18/Nov/12 with Billy

pete87abs - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Dave Brigham

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Nov/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/12

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/12 with Alex Pattison

aipattison - 2nd dog - 26/Oct/12 with George Evans

Quite easy really
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Bruce Woodley

thomasmouse - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12

grakgrak - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/12 with duncan

grakgrak - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/12 with duncan

Hidden - 2nd RP - 07/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12

Pero - 2nd - 07/Oct/12

Epic route, looks soo impressive and down right intimidating. However nice rock up to an awkward move, then as got closer to overhang it opened up as holds became obvious. Felt pretty pumped so pushed through as fast as possible and suddenly you are over it! Awesome route
hlegge - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Joseph Ward

Mike lead this one like a hero! Awesome climbing and not as difficult as it looks
Rollo - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/12 with Mike

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/12 with Roly Chuter

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/12

Fragmod - Lead - 17/Sep/12

minaturechris - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with John Lewis

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

with carl from newport rock.
beardlesssumo - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/12 with Carl

What can I say other than fantastic route!! A bit intimidating looking up but once you get going you find the holds are actually all good
Tala M - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Mike Brookes

sparkass - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Andrew Wightman

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/12

Alex.M-M. - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Colin Horne

Great fun
john lynch - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Lewis Andrew

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/12

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with pep

Hidden - AltLd β - 01/Sep/12

since 2009 this has been bothering me, I fell about 18 foot from the lip with protection at the cheese block after burning out trying to fist jam. 2012, no fist jam and did it clean, even seconded it to get gear back, happy days.
frume - Lead RP - 31/Aug/12 with Rob Hiscox

GrantB - 2nd - 31/Aug/12 with El Bailos

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12

Hidden - TR dog - 23/Aug/12

Amazing climb. Total head game.
lawlolly - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12

Max Lowry - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Boran - 2nd - 11/Aug/12 with Max Lowry

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 10/Aug/12 with Fergus Cuthill

Awesome... bit intimidating below the roof, but massive holds, awesome gear and a solid fist jam...suprised how easy it felt, possibley only 1 5a move - VS in a HVS situation
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Ian Birtwistle

akhughes - Aug/12

sgl0jd - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

naffan - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Sam Capewell

eloise - TR dog - 11/Jul/12

Was wet and low visibility, couldn't see the roof from the ground. Fell off a lot, upside down.
WillDoyle - Lead dog - 27/Jun/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12

deklan - Lead - 20/Jun/12 with mario

Wussed out/myriad of excuses!
ladymuck - 2nd dnf - 18/Jun/12 with Andy Worster

Not as hard as I expected - definite lead next time.
stevetheleg - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/12 with Jay Conlon

Jay C - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/12 with Steve H

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Jun/12

RusseyB - Lead β - 12/Jun/12

Not so tough as it looks :-)
clipskipper - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Andy Gardner

I been wanting to climb this for years. I was very nervous and fell on the first attempt but climbed it clean the second time! just relax, trust the fist-jam. Its juggy with great moves.
steve2006 - Lead rpt - 27/May/12 with Andrew Pearson

wish i wasnt injured so i could've lead this, awesome route!!
PeteWilson - 2nd O/S - 25/May/12 with Matt Wilson

Hillson - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with Pete Wilson

TommityP - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

Perfect highlight to a great day. Epic!
Morwood - Lead O/S - 21/May/12 with gillywillyhoo

Fell on the hand jam move right before pulling up to saftey :(, got there on the second attempt though. BEST CLIMB EVER!
gillywillyhoo - 2nd dog - 21/May/12 with James Morwood

MaccMark - 2nd - 20/May/12 with Philip Jarvis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/12

jordan taylor - Lead O/S - 19/May/12

Dean177 - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with Alan Dibben

Not nearly as bad arse as at looks!
Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with Dean Merchant

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/May/12

ranga - 2nd - 06/May/12

saffy - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

davespider - AltLd - May/12 with mickey seule, jules mckim

What a route, well done ben :)
climb the peak - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/12

classic
BRoe - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Alex Law

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

Made a complete mess of the overhang with very little footwork. Had to rest. Harder than other HVSs I've done.
Laurence Cowton - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Job

Epic climb! What an amazing line!
Dickon151 - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/12

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12

Cracking effort Matt!
MarkRoe - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/12 with Matt Breakell

matty123 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Mark Roe

Terrified but fine. Awesome route fo' sure.
andrew sandercock - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with robert sandercock

Second attempt, clean, epic climb, wanted to do it a third time! Always place the gear
JimboWizbo - Lead β - 31/Mar/12

Jim lead to roof, then swapped. Repeated as second with Jim doing a clean lead. Great route!
ipblake - AltLd - 31/Mar/12 with Jim

Matt Cooke - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/12 with Rosh

Took a whipper with my feet just at the lip, flipped upside down. Very pumped when reaching for jugs on the face. Pleased with the confidence I applied.
Double Knee Bar - Lead dnf - 29/Mar/12

Loved it! Roof section really made my arms feel pumped. Would have struggled to lead this as it was hard enough trying to remove the gear.
DaveMo - 2nd - 25/Mar/12 with Will Tarran

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Mar/12

Hardcore Pat - Lead β - 25/Mar/12 with Chris Vanderz

Ran out of steam after trying to place a big cam in the big pocket above the cheese block and flake. Mistake as only 2 of the 4 cam lobes would fit in! Got tired of hanging, so decided to let go. Big cam held, then ripped! Fell as far as the ledge, then got back on and completed the route clean. Good to finish it as I am crap at roofs! Want to do it again soon!
Chris Sansum - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12 with Ramsey Villanueva

took an epic fall from the nose after freaking out and ended up upside down half way down the Pedestal. Lowered to the ground and lead from scratch. 2nd time, was fine. Really positive holds once you commit.
gavinpeach - Lead RP - 24/Mar/12 with David Shelmerdine

Jake Young - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Nick

pete1993 - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

JakeWShaw - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Pete

2nded again as well.
Nick1812P - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Jake Shaw

stefie c - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Pete Briggs

Steve13 - 2nd β - 24/Mar/12 with Craig Lukins

clukins - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Steve Holland

David Shelmerdine - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with Gavin Peach

alias dave - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Sam.EB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Malc

jack adams - 2nd - 12/Mar/12 with phil davies

phildavies84 - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Jack

Roberto - 11/Mar/12

great but scarily exposed :)
Shortarse.Crowley - Lead O/S - Mar/12 with Justin Critchlow

bloody awesome route!!
peteramsden - Lead - Mar/12

Steeve - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

conorcussell - 2nd rpt - 26/Feb/12

Awesome... was told what gear. Thanks to Jacob for massive psyche and gear advice, while he was on Painted rumour; taking the attention off me.
Dafydd Llywelyn - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Sion McGuinnes

utterly classic and totally enjoyable =]
Matt_L_Robinson - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

CragDog - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

Great route!
conorcussell - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12

jacobjacob - Solo rpt - 25/Feb/12

simeclimb68 - Solo rpt - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/12

Alex@home - 2nd rpt - 15/Jan/12 with The Doctor

Great fun, belayed with an italian hitch due to no belay device (tied right this time...)
Don Jebus - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/12 with joese7en

Damp and Hungover. Apparently The Sloth doesn't respect the fact its your birthday! First trad fall. A relatively unscathed monstrous 12 meters! Exciting.
funsized - Lead dnf - 08/Jan/12 with Matt Smith

matt perks - 2012

maddy.c - 2012

Sam Melville - 2012

matt perks - 2012

Definite personal favorite!..
Mike Warner - Lead O/S - 2012

Must go back and complete!!!
Tom Wayman - 2nd dnf - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

best done quickly, without thinking, and slightly hungover...
AndrewJamesCherry - Lead - 2012 with stef morris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

gazfellows - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Dave Hill - 2012

Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/11

timmyhobby - Lead - 17/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11

didn't like the jam, placed the hex and downclimbed, bailed after i fell downclimbing a second time. getting the gear back was interesting
Chris Redding - Lead dnf - 12/Nov/11

Mike led to the Pedestal. I led the roof. After many years of waiting, this superb climb did not disappoint. The shake-outs at the Cheeseblock and the big flake to its right were much better than expected leaving me fresh for the crux. The holds were big and positive. The main challenge was to choose a successful sequence from the many permutations available. The option I selected involved no jamming whatsoever by moving left a little along the lip flake (after inserting the obligatory Hex) and then a long reach with the right hand up to a juggy ledge. Celebrated sitting on the mat in the late afternoon sun eating Sushi and drinking Mike's real coffee. Perfect!
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 06/Nov/11 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

Brilliant. Not hard. I was thoroughly psyched for this and the psych helped.
Cake - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with John Cooper

Backed off due to rain, had a take on cam in roof. Removed gear on downclimb
lewiz - Lead dnf - 29/Oct/11 with Mishtu Tiwary, Vlad Vishnyakov

mishtu - 2nd - 29/Oct/11 with lewiz

Not too bad. no jamming required and much assisted by use of loaf.
Bart Shaw - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/11 with Sam, Tim

Awesome route, truly gripping. Got a bit cold at the cheese block so reversed back to the block. Struggled to get the hex to seat perfectly but it was a good placement. Pumpy and awkward top. Scary!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/11 with Jon Stewart

The crux of this route is definitely the psychological challenge of committing to the roof! once committed it's just fun all the way! Definitely ok to do as one pitch, barely noticed any drag but that was without placing any gear up to the pedestal. Anything before there would have to be well extended I think. Great route, well worth its reputation.
tom.ireson - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/11 with Charlotte Latter

andrew hammond - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Woody

Bubba Waddy - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Andy

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Dad

Dropped onto gear (large hex) trying to jam the top crack.Second attempt from pedestal got the sequence right (ignoring the jam !) and finished easily- pleased to have climbed at last but annoyed messing up the on-sight.
bobpilgrem - Lead β - 22/Oct/11 with Bob/Tom

F**K!!!! wasn't feeling it today :( At least I managed to get 2 freshers up!
Dan Geh - Lead dog - 22/Oct/11 with Freshers

Stig - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/11 with Greg

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/11

simon.white.1000 - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Tim Ashlin

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/11

gw3285 - Lead - 02/Oct/11

t8t9t8 - 2nd dnf - 02/Oct/11

Andy Moncrief and Derek Carter.I was elated to do this great glimb, after failing on it in the mid sixties with Dave Wood and John Smiler Davis.I think it`s a little harder since some of the flake has fallen off.It felt great pulling through this at 68.It was a long itch.Good pumpy moves,no jams,left hand stretch for small jug left of the crack.Thanks to Andy for the tightish rope.Give it the respect it deserves and regrade it E1.The Viliane was right.Use your head,plus your hands and feet.Awesome.The lumbago kicked in at the top.
derek carter - 28/Sep/11

The best grit route :)
MartinPL - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11

peaker16 - Lead - 25/Sep/11

Almost just as good on second
Dan Geh - 2nd rpt - 22/Sep/11 with Adam Jordan, Thomas Geh

jug-fest!
tgeh - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/11 with adam jordan, dan geh

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Matt Fry

On Andys gear. Brilliant.
Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Andy Janezko

danny3007 - TR dog - 18/Sep/11

Alex Munnery - 2nd - 15/Sep/11 with Jordan Peaker

mark20 - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11

AMJ098 - 2nd O/S - Sep/11 with Dan Geh

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 24/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

helios - 2nd - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Aug/11

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

Not hard, just looks it. Brilliant to be able to climb something this angle at such an amenable grade.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Aug/11

Mega route, the holds are huge, crux was getting stood up once past the roof.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

A bit gutted i seconded this before leading it. Definitely a lead in the near future. Just a head game, the jugs on the overhang are brilliant.
Jonny Nick - 2nd β - 18/Aug/11 with Viki

sgl0jd - 17/Aug/11

Petarghh - 2nd - 09/Aug/11

Almost bottled it as i couldnt get the jam, the reach was a bit slopey but managed to get verticle again. Awesome route
antdav - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Wayne

hotfeet - Lead - 06/Aug/11 with Mac

Wonderful clmbing, pleasent all the way up to the crux, and the sling just makes it feel uber safe. manged to pull up and get a hex in. and breezed over roof.
waynem1985 - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Antony Davies

Loved it so much i went for another go, and seconded Alan
waynem1985 - 2nd rpt - 06/Aug/11 with Alan Mountford

Neil led. Bark definitely worse than bite. Top route though.
stuaart - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Thomas Smith, Neil Redgrave

thomasaneurinsmith - 2nd - 05/Aug/11 with Neil Redgrave, Stuart Reeves

menacing! first roof overhang lead!
Bumblebee Biggs - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11

BRILLIANT route. Best I've done on grit so far.
Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Tim Rogers

sputnik - Lead dog - 02/Aug/11

littleluke - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

AWESOME!!! Nuff said!
kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Ian

dave_rose - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11

robman - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11

asmith37 - 2nd dog - 30/Jul/11 with Dave Rose

Not as hard as it looks, but very intimidating. Best grit HVS?
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Thomas Geh

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with dan geh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/11

darlolad - Lead - 18/Jul/11

Best climb ive done on grit to this date! Easier than I thought it would be. Don't get put off by its look, it stopped me doing it for over a year. Smashing route hit it with confidants and you'll be fine.
mitchellbowen1990 - Lead β - 14/Jul/11

Spanner - 2nd - 14/Jul/11 with Mitch Bowen

darlolad - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

shafman - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11

Intimidating and still some powerful moves to go when you reach the lip.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Berry

berry - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Kafoozalem

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Didn't place 'the' gear...massive holds. The jam is better than the jug if you know how, awesome!
jwpil - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Mat

williamsd79 - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Lee Wales

al99 - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/11 with Chris Campbell, Luke Watts

HIGHTOWER - Lead β - 02/Jul/11 with Dylan Williams

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

Budge - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Dave Valentine-Hagart

Got over the lip, after svereal attempts, but then had no energy to deal with the crack.
Stoff - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/11 with gpcomps

Could not get cam out from block which trapped the sling. Got so pumped trying to get this out that I needed a rest. Bit of a trauma really !
Stoff - 2nd dog - 28/Jun/11 with gpcomps

Fantastic route, had to rest at the crux, but made it in the end
gpcomps - Lead dog - 28/Jun/11 with Chris Bridgland

next time i do it clean! It was much easier than anticipated. Found the hardest was actually getting to the Sling placement. Rested on the cam above because too pumped fromm faffing with gear.
Fred_Richard - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11 with Andy Mccoy, Kat

kat-lyle - 2nd - 26/Jun/11 with fred

Sat on the big cam
AndyMcCoy - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/11 with Fred

Second after not completing lead.
chrism225 - 2nd β - 19/Jun/11 with shef tom

Felt a lot easier than expected. Huge holds and safe.
JRae - Lead - 19/Jun/11 with C Middleton

thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Chris, Johnny

matthewjames - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Alex Bashford

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/11

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike

guy757 - Lead - 11/Jun/11 with John Frost

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11

What a beast!
floss_81 - 2nd - 09/Jun/11 with Guy Buckingham

aidanb - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/11

TRFrost - Lead β - 05/Jun/11 with N. Price

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Andy Borne

elbeanio - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11

np134 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with T. Frost, N. Howett

Epic climb, can't believe how easy it was after psyching myself out so many times!
peeturd - Lead β - 05/Jun/11 with Chris Grant, Jim Lear

tomparrott - Lead - 05/Jun/11 with DJ

deejmonkey - 2nd - 05/Jun/11 with Tom

craig naylor - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with nick

dangerousoldfool - 2nd O/S - Jun/11 with Budge

Pbclimbing.com - AltLd - Jun/11 with henry castle

Lovely stuff! Shame i was getting dripped on through the crack.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 31/May/11 with Rob Middleton

jakelodge - 2nd RP - 27/May/11 with Lawrence Bird

burnt off jake, and stole his (shit) gear
Lawrence Bird - Lead - 27/May/11 with jakelodge

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/11

Climbed in gentle rain, which turned to heavy rain, then hail! Easier than it looks. But it looks pretty scary. Didn't place any gear above the sling on the cheeseblock, the holds were confidence-inspiring.
Tom Stoddart - Lead - 14/May/11 with Iain Leverett

AMAZING! going to do it so many times :)
willoates - Lead O/S - 05/May/11 with Jim Burton

pure climbing pleasure!
Mark Warnett - Lead β - 02/May/11

jon clayton - Lead rpt - May/11

simonward - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

fell twice. disappointed. mark belayed
JohnBear - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11

Fantastic climbing, very intimidating before you set off from the pedestal though!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Nick, Claire

llamaglama - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Nick, Jam

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Jamie

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/11

I've been wanting to do this since the last time I visited the roaches when this was well above me. Superb intimidating, pumpy and nervy fun.
MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Jonathan Spooner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

benwhit - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11

terri mc - 2nd β - 20/Apr/11 with Justin Critchlow

Lovely route, not as hard as it is intimidating. Been trying to climb it for too long but things always stopped me, perigrines, greenyness and rain are the main culprits. will def do it again.
highclimber - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/11

Superb lead from Ed. Worth every star
rockman - 2nd β - 19/Apr/11 with Andrew Edwards

2nd time just for laugh. great route!
Alroy - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/11 with ben peake

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Did it barefoot this time, sort of made it easier i think, awesome situation hanging around at the lip of the roof barefoot :D
CharlieMack - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/11 with David

What a route.
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Bart Harris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Audrey @ The Castle - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Mar/11

vanderz - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with patrick dawson

Spent ages trying to clip cam then panicked at the lip and fell, lowered to ledge and got it easily. Oh well, will be back.
Aid@n - Lead dog - 26/Mar/11 with Dan Stephens

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11

crispyboy - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Lashlin

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Brilliant route!
Tom Redmond - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with jake young

with geoff and jonny
groliver26 - 2nd - 19/Mar/11 with Jonny Forster, Geoff Pyatt

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Tom Redmond

rosh3000 - 02/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Feb/11

Hidden - Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jan/11

dan-8990 - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/11 with AO

jon clayton - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/11 with sasha


The Green Giant - 2nd O/S - 20/Jan/11 with Dan with the van

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Luke Brooks - 2011

walts4 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Bob - 2011

Dave Rumney - 2011

ColinD - Lead - 2011

Gareth H - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011

adie84 - 2011

thedoctorisin - 2011

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 2011

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2011

texeltup - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/10

jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Phil Craven

Really cool. Managed to get two cams in before I got too pumped. Got a weird rest by squeezing all limbs into the crack just before the final moves. Loved it
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10

chris_whitehead1898 - Lead - Nov/10

andysroom - Lead O/S - Nov/10

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Emma

Abevan - 24/Oct/10 with james walker

Andrew Abraham - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

Ed Feldman - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/10 with Freshers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

ig248 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10 with Shane

Felt quite intimidated despite being on second. The roof itself was straightforward with jugs in all the right places. The wall above a tricky awkard move.
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Andy Reyner, Andrew Abraham

At last, lived up to expectation, and it was jugtastic, happy days.
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Clement Attwood

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/10

Glad I didn't lead it in the end as I fell off the roof while seconding. Massive flakes make great handholds, just a bit awkward getting over the lip.
Chris Perry - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/10 with Matt Rust

sam820 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/10 with Terry

awesome climbing.. kit learnt about heel hooks the hard way
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/10 with Kit Perry

Danny Crump - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Sarah Pentelow

LiL Saz - 2nd - 12/Sep/10 with Danny Crump

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with bleggs

no need to jam
grp - Lead - 01/Sep/10

no need to jam
grp - Lead - 01/Sep/10

Chris lead it. Seconded it without any problems. Quite honestly a brilliant climb. Looks intimidating from the ground but the overhang gives in surprisingly easily with great holds.
Daniels735 - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Clair Fowler, Chris Waters

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10

al99 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Nick Record

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Took for ever putting a new sling over cheeseblock, started up the flakes and was extremely pumped... off I came, rested on Pedestal then finished the climb
Spidermunkie - Lead dog - 22/Aug/10

Finally!
riddle - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Mike Stephenson

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Dexter, Rachel Takacs

Alex Winter - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/10 with D. Rylett

Rested on cam midway through roof
rylett - Lead - 11/Aug/10 with Alex Winter

Have seen this climbed on Neil G's DVD so I didn't take the full onsite. Much easier than expected; didn't jam at all on the overhang just did an offwidth to get through the top part of the crack. Super position, great climb.
climbinmunkey - Lead β - 03/Aug/10 with Ken

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Noodles30 - Lead O/S - Aug/10

adamwesthead - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Hoult, Zeb

zebster - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/10 with Nick, Adam

Another party were on it but couldn't finish it. I tied into their ropes, top roped up to their last bit of gear (by the lip). But replaced most of the gear on the way. Then led to the top. I'll take the onsight as the preplaced gear didn't help at all! Much easier than expected, great route!
dave657 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

irish paul - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Sarah Joyce

Nice climb a lot easier than it looks.
grubes - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Nick

Dithered for a while before finally committing.
willworkforfoodjnr - Lead β - 02/Jul/10

Choked on the overhang. Next time...
Shorty83 - 2nd dnf - 02/Jul/10 with Giles

Awesome. The feeling after this one stuck with me for days...
coombsy - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Rich G

Gigga - Lead O/S - Jul/10

nearly cryed at the top!
beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Jamie Kean

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Ian Mountford, Steve Carty

Excellent, a bold lead for Mark, a really nice second for me!
becster - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Mark Day

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Mark

Martin Cleaver - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Dan Gibson

sgl0jd - Lead - 12/Jun/10

Jacqui Parker - 2nd - 12/Jun/10 with Stu Burbidge, James Dexter

williamsd79 - Lead O/S - Jun/10

saalty - 2nd O/S - Jun/10 with eddy, colin

lukea - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with dan, Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

Pretty epic :)
sam corbett - Lead β - 30/May/10 with Alistair Corbett

siah - Lead rpt - 25/May/10 with collin

Spidermunkie - 2nd rpt - 25/May/10

A friend couldnt finish the route, I lowered him off then finished the route on his pre-placed gear up to Cheeseblock
Spidermunkie - Lead rpt - 25/May/10

Gutted to have sat on the rope. Need to get better at jamming. Superb route.
Shad - 2nd - 23/May/10

A good climb to warm up on... NOT! I found the roof more intimidating to look at from the ledge than to climb. A cheeky rest on the rope did not take anything away for me. Got the jam which is excellent!
Jon Dittman - Lead - 23/May/10

Took a fall unable to get the jam to stick after turning the lip. Bomber hex in place though so fall was uneventful. Glad to get on and have a go though, I'd looked up at this route on my previous two visits and thought better of it.
Glyn Davidson - AltLd dog - 22/May/10 with Ali

Ali first pitch Glyn second pitch
Ali H - AltLd - 22/May/10 with Glyn

Should have lead this when hvs was my limit. Still an excellent climb.
Diggler - Lead O/S - 21/May/10 with Johnny

My most exciting climb to date, Bomber gear, Sod placing any kind of pro in the Lip, if you've got that far, just go for it
Spidermunkie - Lead O/S - 21/May/10

westaway - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

Ian Fidd - Lead O/S - 19/May/10

Have been wanting to do this for a long time but had never quite got round to it previously (excuses, excuses!). The route didn't disappoint. Proved easier than it looked from the Pedestal, which is just as well!
Misha - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Paul

Looks nasty but it aint..!
Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Lee

My first grit lead, obviously I'm hooked now.
Ztephan - Lead O/S - 10/May/10 with Jim

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

most exciting lead to date! some good positive holds but pretty intimidating.
Alroy - Lead O/S - 08/May/10 with ben peake

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/10

chedder - 2nd - 02/May/10 with stu harth

williamsd79 - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10

ciaran1999 - Lead - 28/Apr/10 with saul

Brilliant
Souljah - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10

Hidden - TR - 27/Apr/10

Should have lead it...
Alex Thompson - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Eddy

Steve did 1st lead, pulled the rope and lead on his pre-placed gear
Oliver Houston - Lead β - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd β - 24/Apr/10

Really enjoyed seconding this. Wasnt up for leading it and got to experience it withhout the full on gripping effect. Not sure at what point Don Whillans had to use his loaf tho!
middlemarker - 2nd - 19/Apr/10 with Joris

That bloody jamming move to get out of the roof got me.
Joris.Roulleau - Lead dog - 18/Apr/10 with Dan Metcalfe

Bottled the overhang... I'll do it by the end of the summer.
blueroly - 2nd dnf - 17/Apr/10 with Oleg Makarov

Sari Nevala - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Adam

davewsargent - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with peter sargent

Fantastic day!
mic_b - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/10 with Michelle

Adam Potter - 2nd - 17/Apr/10 with Sari

Double Knee Bar - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/10 with Nathan, Iain

Completed the overhang, fell with feet over the lip down to the pedestal. - Few stood back on pedestal, shook out and completed it. :)
JCB42 - Lead dog - 06/Apr/10 with James Turner

Surprisingly amenable and not too intimidating up close. Pleased to have this ticked
jkarran - Lead - 04/Apr/10 with Matt

mattyork2 - 2nd - 04/Apr/10 with James Karran

easy easy easy
hilty - Lead O/S - Apr/10

loved it, trick to this route is not to think about it too much before you get there or you will bottle it, like me an some of my friends have done many times before!!!!! plenty of gear in it and stopped to place it. nice and easy, just takes balls
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10 with dan abbat

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Mar/10

roberts1234567890 - 2nd - 12/Mar/10 with Jamie Hawton

rikbattye - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with Charlie Mackie

Epic. One of the best! Get up there and get it done.
nickmattia - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with james turnbull

jimmatthews - Lead - 20/Feb/10

shark - 2nd - 11/Feb/10 with Jen and Mike from Nottingham

GF - 2010

Pbclimbing.com - 2010

Ebarnes - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

pie_eater_pete - 2010

Lunar25 - Lead β - 2010

lead on pre-placed gear, turned it in a nice sports route
andyob - Lead O/S - 2010 with Diggler

Ken Taylor - 2010

Ade P - Lead - 2010

clair.fowler - 2nd O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

geddicakes - Lead β - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Drew M - Lead - 2010

Emma-Louise Anderson - 2nd - 17/Nov/09 with David Haygarth

ciaran1999 - 2nd - 09/Nov/09 with saul

sce8 - Lead dnf - 07/Nov/09 with Neil Howett

I seconded the crux
ccraigg22 - AltLd dog - 28/Oct/09 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/09

toasted - Lead - 25/Oct/09 with Simon Whitehead

Absolutely awesome! Forgot to take a long sling, so placed a nut. I got tired in the process and so climbed down to the ledge to have a rest to recover. The strategy worked well -- well, for me at least, while Tony experienced a nightmare to retrieve the nut. Sorry!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Tony H

Quick dash to the Roaches after work - rewarded with a class climb ! Quite strenuous over the overhang (which is the move on the climb rest is easy) >90 degree bodyposition while heel hooking is not usual HVS fayre anywhere apart from grit (!) though Simon seemed to manage to do by jamming rather than hanging - grit monkey !
jandyd05 - 2nd O/S - 23/Oct/09 with Simon Cox

loundsy - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with bex

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with loundsy

simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Allan Watson

d_meacher - Lead dog - 11/Oct/09 with Hazel

mlmatt - 2nd - 11/Oct/09 with Dan Masterman

snakebite - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09 with Matt Reynolds

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09

Intimidating route to set off on, and super intimidating leaving the ledge. A wild and classic route.
Silum - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09 with Carl

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/09

Ran out the start, placed the odd bomber up to the sling on the block. Reversed to the ledge, shook out the pump, then blasted through the roof. Awesome route, never in doubt. All good prep for Quietus…
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Smudge

smudger384 - 2nd - 20/Sep/09

WillBroad - Lead - 20/Sep/09

PeteH - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Noel Peatfield

ndp - 2nd - 15/Sep/09

melonmike - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Emily Bond

david morse - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with mikey+em

Em66 - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with Mike, Morse

Into the overhang with great protection below me with a sling and a runner ... making good into the upper crack when feet cut loose - no option but to spot for a landing and let go as no amount of flailing was going to help find some footing. The slab below hyperextended my foot as I landed, and I limped off thoroughly gutted I had had to bail. A long walk to the car (ouch that really did hurt) and a visit to A&E the following day confirmed the worse! Still crutches are good for upper body strength, right?
Solcambs - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/09 with Neil Ronketti

Awesome
richardhopton - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/09 with Tradmania

joese7en - 2nd O/S - Sep/09

Seriously intimidating ... hung on gear a lot but very happy just to get up it.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 16/Aug/09 with Trev Wilson

Needed a tight rope at the crux.
KeithW - 2nd dog - 02/Aug/09 with Kev Bowser

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/09

quiffhanger - Lead - 27/Jul/09

Mr Wild - Solo - 15/Jul/09

areeves - Lead β - 12/Jul/09 with Andy

mlmatt - Lead β - 12/Jul/09 with Paul

slacky - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/09 with Tim

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/09

Gravey - 2nd - 24/Jun/09 with Dominic Bridgewood

As good as before, my arms didn't feel as strong but then it was the first route of the day and i hung around to put a 2nd runner in other than the cheese block this time which got in the way of the nice hand jam!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/09 with Shane

Yes !!!!
JWB - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Mark Anstey

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jun/09

sgl0jd - Lead β - 13/Jun/09

grakgrak - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/09 with duncan

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/09

smudge - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Rob

ShaneHoubart - 2nd - Jun/09

Nice whipper off the overhang - suddenly forgot what I was doing! Glad for the friend in the pocket
Gandy - Lead dog - Jun/09

daniel_c_baron - 2nd dog - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/09

Climbing was easier than I expected it to be, probably a different proposition on the lead though.
Byronius Maximus - 2nd O/S - 30/May/09 with Alex Twist

Upside down VDiff
Twisty - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Byron Buck

CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09 with Matt Watkins

Amazing Climb
Bennykr - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with JB

So gud that i went up again, but mainly to get gear out for someone esle!!
Bennykr - 2nd rpt - 24/May/09 with Matt

Jillybean - 2nd - 24/May/09 with Ben

Found this easier than I expected. The hard part isn't getting over the lip (jugs galore) but protecting yourself once over, arm-jam whilst fiddling with my no. 4 friend was a bit hair-raising!
Irn Bruce - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Ian Jenkins

CharlieMack - Lead rpt - 02/May/09 with Janek Mamino

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Rose Williams

Rose Williams - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Gareth

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Apr/09

Easy slabby cracks, creeky holds broke my nerve
JonBrown - 2nd dnf - 25/Apr/09 with Tiff

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Jon Brown, Steve M

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/09 with William Harling

Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/09

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

Very intimidating stood underneath the overhang, but good holds.
Rob Laird - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with B Sosin

mr random - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/09 with Rob L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/09 with michael porter

Brilliant.
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Marek

GPN - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Annette

aspyrex - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Martin Haworth

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/09

nige - Lead - 20/Feb/09 with john reti

popov86 - Lead - 03/Jan/09

keith leonard - 2009

jiles - 2nd O/S - 31/Dec/08 with alexzander89

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/08 with J. Iles-Smith

Tez29 - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Ian

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/08

Fell off at the first roof flake and bashed my wrist. No more climbing that day
teflonpete - Lead dnf - 19/Oct/08 with Tom

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Mark PJ

Joris.Roulleau - TR - Oct/08 with Mike McKenna

HamishD - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with vince vahinsberg

lead pitch 1 (only VD mind)
vvanhinsbergh - AltLd - 27/Sep/08 with Hamish Dunn

siah - 2nd β - 24/Sep/08 with gavin nixon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08

First time stuffed up getting over the lip of the overhang. Down climbed a bit and dropped to the slab, sprained ankle. Stayed on then went again put a small friend in at the start of the roof and then did it in much better style.
DrIan - Lead dog - 20/Sep/08 with Scott & Rachel

nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Matt Barnet

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd β - 14/Sep/08

sonaf - TR - 23/Jul/08 with Malc

C.J.Horsfield - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/08 with paul

will6459 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Dave Mason Sam Crabb

DeniseWootten - 2nd O/S - Jul/08 with Luke Walsh, Umbreen Ahmed, Paul Hendry

skittles - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with will johnson, dave mason

lukewalsh - Mar/08

Moonlight ascent, 2am, amazing
feilx - Lead rpt - 23/Feb/08 with Dave M

Awesome, all the chalked up holds light by moonlight!
dmoir - 2nd O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Felix Coxwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/08

Reasonable climbing at the most unlikely angle for the grade. Some awesome thigh jams past the lip. Bog standard HVS.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Robin

sadams - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Eric Hildrew

alexharv3y - Lead dnf - 27/Jan/08

areeves - 2nd β - 2008 with Andy

Hidden - 2008

ian storey - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 2008

Intimidating stuff, the best hand and foot holds on any route ever!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Thomas Martin

PanzerHanzler - 2nd - 08/Sep/07 with Simon Chandler

What a route!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Clio

Clee - 2nd - 08/Sep/07 with Steve

Mike who i met at the bottom went first and placed all gear, fell off, i lowered him down and he let me have a crack using his preplaced gear.
MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Mike who i met at the bottom

bfreeman - Lead O/S - Sep/07

tskelhon - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/07 with luke evans

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Andy Winter

chalk monster - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/07 with richard

jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/07 with Joe

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/07

Put a sling on the block then went for it. Much easier than I thought it would be, especially once you get your feet on the flake. Wouldn't have liked to hang around putting in gear.
Marvino - Lead - 01/Aug/07 with Mark

TomHaigh - 2nd O/S - Aug/07 with Ryan Jones

twodada - 2nd - 28/Jul/07 with Paul O-T

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jul/07

richardhopton - 2nd - 09/Jul/07 with Duz Walker

Phil Jennings - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/07 with Matt Burdekin

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/07

Goody - 2nd dnf - 19/Jun/07 with Mark Ford

Got the sequence all wrong.
Jon_Warner - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/07 with Jonny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/07

derico - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/07 with Alex M

wirralclimber1984 - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/07 with dave body

easy HVS
centurion05 - Lead O/S - Jun/07

Stig - Lead rpt - 29/May/07 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/07

Seemore (Gareth) lead the route clean, with a few down climbing rests so to get the gear in the overhang and i 2nd him with one hanging rest stop near the lip because i got pumped from unfortunatly fiddling with sling lol, was an awesome climb though, big adrenelin rush.
skittles - 2nd dog - 23/May/07 with Gareth Watkins

Quite pumpy but great gear and exposure. Def don't want to hang around too long placing gear.
Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Gareth

Climbed to the lip hung around too long, so down climbed for a rest, went for it again and dropped! landed on my knees...nice!
flyboy86 - Lead dnf - May/07 with Nick (kendogcatchy)

kendogcatchy - 2nd dnf - May/07 with Dave Clarke

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/07

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/07 with Tommo

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/07

In the dark!
tatz45 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/07 with Quentin O'Brien

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

drop dead fred... - Lead O/S - Apr/07

eley1 - 2nd - Apr/07 with graham

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

daza - Lead dog - 31/Mar/07 with Ash

awsome, hardwork after the roof pulling into the crack
jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/07 with James Coles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/07

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Feb/07

Ben1983 - Lead dog - 03/Feb/07

Night ascent...
alaan - Lead rpt - 03/Feb/07 with Chris

very nics
Mike W - 2nd RP - 2007

easier than it looks. getting over the intimidation is the hardest part. just go fast, bang the cam in the break, and then wedge yourself in the offwidth above and get your breath back....
markvr - Lead O/S - 2007

deanroberts - Lead O/S - 2007

deanroberts - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

tommytuffa - 2007

DannyK - 2nd O/S - 25/Dec/06

sgl0jd - Lead - 21/Dec/06 with Tom Devas

russonly - Lead dnf - 03/Dec/06

daza - Lead dog - 03/Nov/06 with Nick C

Hidden - Lead - Nov/06

Just brilliant!
dycotiles - Lead β - 14/Oct/06 with Duncan

Hidden - Lead - 08/Oct/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with AJ

tumbling wizard - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with andrew marshall

OffshoreAndy - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with UKC Jeremy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/06

juza - Lead - 13/Aug/06 with Garry Farrar

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Aug/06

bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/06

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with John Inkpen

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jul/06

givemetea - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with Rich Bartlett

Wonderful - Severe for 20m followed by a fun V1 boulder problem with perfect fall-out. And you don't have to jam!
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Cathy Lane

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/May/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/06

spacey - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with si barrow

Roch - 2nd - 22/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead - 25/Mar/06

climbingrick - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/06

Only slung the cheese block. Starteed to work off higher up.
Jack Symmons - Lead - Mar/06 with Chris T

John Lisle - 2006

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 2006

jamesturnbull - 2006

Billg - Lead O/S - 2006 with Megan Beaumont

Netgear7 - 2nd O/S - 2006

Holly R - 2nd - 2006 with Jorg

Hidden - Lead dog - Dec/05

Si dH - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/05 with Tom Lambert

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/05

Somerset swede basher - Lead β - Sep/05 with Steve Elliff

An impressive climb that captures the imagination. Definitely not your average HVS, although it is friendly. Should be in the top 50 climbs. Relatively easy moves through the roof. The big question is whether you protect the roof, with potential to pump out placing gear, or risk a nasty fall. I didn't, and conquered.
LoopyLou - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Helen Lear

First HVS lead.
will_benfold - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Stig - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/05 with Karl Walton

I fell off the top move, 10 metres to slam into the slab below. Broke my heel, but not my resolve, and haven't been able to climb for a while now, but soon I hope! At least my pro held...I will be back
Katex - Lead dnf - Jul/05 with Simon Edwards

Mat J - Lead - Jun/05

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/May/05 with Will Parsons

DavidR - Lead O/S - 14/May/05 with Matt Hopkinson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/May/05

jparry75 - Lead - May/05 with emlyn

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/05 with gary wood

north country boy - Lead β - Mar/05 with Laura Evans, Tom Mills

benjhans - 2nd O/S - Mar/05 with Dan Braund

mark s - 2005

My best onsite and was a turning point for me, since doing this i started climbing harder and more frequent.
matt30987 - Lead RP - 2005 with Dad

Kevster - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Lawrence Eccles - 2nd O/S - 2005 with John, A. Crook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/04

Jez - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/04

chris warner - Lead - Oct/04 with sandhurst

donkster - 2nd O/S - Sep/04 with sharratt

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Felix Coxwell

johnboyrevel - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Sam

cem - Lead β - 23/May/04 with Graham Dolman

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 22/May/04 with John Nightingale

Will_he_fall - Lead O/S - May/04 with stuart

Apharri - Lead O/S - May/04 with Dave Wharton

Tim Steward - Lead - 24/Apr/04 with Nick Lambert

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/04 with Mike Todd

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

feilx - 2004

mbutton - Lead O/S - 2004 with Tris Fox

RossG - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/03

Lev - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/03 with Spen

Hidden - Lead - Oct/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/03

jamiev - Lead O/S - May/03 with Adrian Berry

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/03

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/03 with Penny Allchin & Hilary Bloor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/03

surprisingly i don't remember much from this climb. It was my first route at the roaches. Remember being daunted under the roof but it went surprisingly easily considering 'i can't hardly climb'.
Belier - Lead O/S - 2003 with Andy Reeve

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 2003 with Dave Malia

unfit - AltLd - 2003

Hidden - 2nd - 2003

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2003

wadey1973 - Lead - 18/Aug/02 with Gordon Hutchinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/02

Mark Collins - Lead dog - 16/Feb/02 with Neil Henson

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/02

dan gibson - 2002

Hidden - 2002

cem - Lead dnf - 23/Sep/01 with Graham Dolman

What a superb route :) I made the mistake of waiting until I could lead E2 before I finally got on it, which did spoil it a bit. If I'd climbed it as an aspiring HVS leader then it probably would have scared the daylights out of me!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead O/S - Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jan/01

been out on the roof twice now, lack of commitment/bottle/strength to pull over, even with ok friend placed.
Milne - Lead dnf - 2001 with paul strutt

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Nov/00 with Graham Hewitt

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/00 with Roy Thomas

richard31 - Lead dog - 01/Apr/00 with Adrian Perry

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/00

jonka - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

kato'sdad - Lead - 2000 with Rob Simpson

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 2000

antroy - 2nd - 15/May/99

Tarquin - 2nd - 1999

tuftynick - Lead - 1999 with ciaran troup

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/98 with mik

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 09/May/98 with Dan, Nicky

Mark Riley - AltLd - 1998 with Richard Ibberson

BruceW - Lead dog - 1998 with Keith S.

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/97

Hidden - Lead - 1997

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 16/Sep/96 with Al Willoner

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/96

Ropeboy - Lead - 13/Jul/96

WB - Lead O/S - Jul/96 with Guy

phardman - Lead - 12/May/96 with Jon Bibby

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/95

Marti999 - Lead - 1995

jparry75 - 2nd - Sep/94

Hidden - TR - Jul/94

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 24/Apr/94 with martin ackerley

ChrisJD - Lead - 22/May/93 with Alex

stevieb - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/93 with Nick Knorr

Hidden - 2nd - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/92

Completely bottled it
andrew300169 - Lead dog - 01/Apr/92 with Tim

Hidden - Lead - 1992

nai - Lead - 1992

channinga - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/91

SimonN - 2nd - 10/Jul/91

whispering nic - Lead - 29/Jun/91 with noj

Started 2nd pitch in glorious sunhine, finished it in half an inch of snow!I wasn't that slow surely.
adi bryant - AltLd O/S - Apr/91 with chunky Dave

Roget - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/90 with jim

andrew300169 - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 20/May/89

Snow on the ground and -5, but I was determined to do the route.As I started up someone mentioned that a Friend 2 1/2 fitted perfectly in the slot. It didn't, so I wasted time & strength. My tape over the block slipped off as I reached the lip and then my foot slipped, so I was hanging from one hand. Shouted for a mate to get a photo then finished the route. Belayer too cold to follow!
Sean Kelly - Lead - Jan/89 with Alan Payne

Gambit - 1989 with Barney

tlr - TR - Jun/88 with Fin and Nick

SPD224 - Lead - Jun/88

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/88

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/88

One of my milestone "ticks". Felt I could call myself a proper HVS leader after this.
steve taylor - Lead O/S - 1988 with stumpy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/87

RichardMc - 2nd - 27/Jul/86 with Jon Clifford-Smith

Hairy Welshman - 2nd dog - 1986

Richard Weller - 2nd - 22/Sep/85 with Ant Osborne

failed leading it.. fell off the lip knackered. managed to just get up it seconding Graham then went down with nasty cold/flu thing next day. shame, great route.
JamieAyres - 2nd RP - Aug/85 with Graham Aveyard

shark - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/85 with Phill Dickens

Gezzer - 1985

John Marsland - Lead - 24/Nov/84 with Dave Mould

andy gittins - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/83

had failed on at lip previously. Perhaps the finest HVS on gritstone.
stp - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/83

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 08/Mar/83 with Johnny Dawes, Bill McKee

Gezzer - Lead - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Oct/82

Jerremey Wriggley
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/82

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/81

Andy Stephenson - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/81

Hammy - Lead - 24/Jul/81 with Rob Lawson

Andy Fielding - TR - 1980 with Mike Gilbert

Hidden - 2nd - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/79

Mike Owen - 11/Nov/78 with Gavin Peat

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 18/Sep/77 with Tony Kartawick

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/76 with Tony Williams

GeoffG - 2nd - 26/Jul/75 with tony bowker

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1975 with Ian Grace

petemeads - Lead - 08/Oct/74

Rog Wilko - 2nd - May/71 with John Yates

Done regularly through the 70's and 80's
David Smith - Lead - 1970 with Al Bennett

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
LifeAboveTheBolt, blake, Hidden, Hidden, hfisher, mfisher, WhipperSnapper, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, squicky, gravity, dnichols, Nathaniel Gjöderum-Larsson, Broom136, Sam Husband, Hidden, chris ginge, bsparky, Hidden, Valentino, ian2707, Hidden, Palmer, Dervey, Hidden, richardw87, Hidden, Joemanglerocks, Teddys15, jorge1983, Hidden, Fraser hill-casey, Mayaculpa, Hidden, JamesWilliams, Hidden, LeeWithers1987, Hidden, GuitarGenius92, mdg skidmore, Stefan Trebicki, 1poundSOCKS, afinley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, thomaspomfrett, pryan300, spidermonkey09, alexanderjwatts, Garson, mightybobbins, CM1992, Hidden, Hidden, Matt250, onlyfoddington, Dean177, Hidden, rurp, whitehouse_rhys, Phil Layton, Hidden, NeilOMalley, Hidden, Hidden, Double Knee Bar, Hidden, Hidden, icTris, mhawk, vertigo714, innesmac, Aaron Hauptmann, Ross.Cooper, JonmapDL, Nickrussan, parker236, Hidden, steve2006, jack 9895, hlegge, joeym, IanMulvany, Ian Bell, Matt Smith, armouredego, Just Another Dave, DaveMo, Hidden, charley, schristophersmith, Paul Hy, Joe.Elliott1, rustaldo, Skullfire, dr_botnik, Hidden, davetaylor, Hidden, mloskot, Ciderslider, Hidden, Hidden, Jsnproc, Hidden, AlexxelA, Sianny, Hidden, Luke Jones, Hidden, mattmurphy, jamests99, Hidden, mcglenr25, UnkArl, stvey, j4kub, Chris Redding, reckless_rat, Hidden, Hidden, samfayers, Kyle87, Dave Mason, maggsy, JemG, Fred_Richard, Jim Gaffney, CRiddiford, Hidden, Alex.M-M., Sam Marks, ParkFace, ben1987, peter myers, PeteWilson, Hidden, oddessy_uk, iwebster59017, Hidden, olidea, Hidden, Hidden, COUPY2010, colinwarden, phja, crazy pierre, pnorth, andrusht84, Ragnaar, Ewano, Submit to Gravity, Rich K, jeffb, hfac, Mi|es, C-nunez, OMSKB, Emma-Louise Anderson, nealepj, Hidden, jez_springall, Hidden, ccraigg22, tim123487, Hidden, Hidden, robin_hackney, Katex, JuneBob, lostinmidlands, Hidden, Hexman, Tala M, fozzybear, willotheward, jayrenegade, Mr-Cowdrey, Dan_Carroll, ozbaker, Hidden, Hidden, Chris Perry, Hidden, Hidden, franksnb, philboy, Mike Nolan, benkelsey, Hidden, Hidden, LankyPaddy, benvowles, dkelly, hapymike, kayakmonkey, Stoff, Hidden, catblack, iceaxejuggler, daviesdan, Shorty83, ChrisRGX, Hidden, Hidden, Superchop75, Hidden, chri55ie, Hidden, vincentvega, Hidden, maxkellock, hellboundblr, dansmonkeytroubles, becoming-stranger, JFraser123, Hidden, Hidden, a13x, Hidden, Hidden, David Bulley, Alan100, Hidden, BeccaSnowden, Hidden, Cornish Cream, jumpingjimminy, furry, rcammack, fleapitfan, Singleton_Alex, BicepAndrews, Ralfy, sharon lannie, Big Steve C, JonBrown, Andrew Abraham, boywonder, davross1986, mattrm, Jay J, mattyork2, Listy, jandyd05, mcdougal, hdog76, Hidden, bobbarnes00, William_Rennie, Marcos31, Glennjoe, johnkevan, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ahilton83, gary.barr, bavarianGaz, nic42, Lawrie Brand, blanchie14c, Hidden, Skinny Kin, Hidden, JaseSSDD, pottsworth, andybuckley, Swotson, Hidden, The Bad Cough, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Rustyshanks, adamwesthead, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Danhan, frume, ma-ding, dashitboarder, Mr Tickle, franny, climbinmunkey, JCB42, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mbtulett, b.hayley, leopet, Tadams, Mr Sparkle, Glyn Davidson, Hidden, BBRC, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, Hidden, jules699, Mr. K, rocktigger, Tomprusk, lewk_c, betamonkey, Hidden, rosida, madmats, Hidden, Hidden, hugh2002, Daxman, Hidden, Albie, Hidden, tedburt, Hidden, Hidden, fennerz, rogersavery, Hidden, middle aged slob, Hidden, Hidden, pldarch, Hidden, Hidden, sstanier, skittles, Hidden, djking1983, wilchivs, Hidden, nublet, DanT, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, climbingpixie, Hidden, Tommy G, Will Hunt, AlastairB, hailtryfan, Quiddity, C@rwyn, loco_ola, saillord, trevor macalonan, Hidden, Chris Harding, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, dja, tobydunford, Mike H, fran04, Hidden, duczak_1, Hidden, silhouette, Hidden, Peakology, climber130887, Steve Waters, Mynydd, MDowson, Charles, Si01, ChalkBall, bendurance, tasmat, Hidden, Hidden, wushu, Steve Banham, waltersp, Benwa, jak.kelly, davek, Hidden, PenCox, eppa, Hidden, Mike Parker, Reds, simonfife, Hidden, Milne, sharky91, Hidden, Hidden, andymoin, eonuk, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Paul Burgess, Carl Smethurst, Hidden, Paul Leader, Cameron13, SecretSquirrel, tomboyle, Hidden, Simon Fyfe, featuresforfeet, ungracefulathlete, Hidden, Matt Bill Platypus, studly84, Pem, maybe_si, Oliver Sherman, mike kann, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Caralynh, Hidden, Hidden, Pete E, Tobias at Home, adam carless

Voting
Total votes cast 733
hard E10 of 200
E10 of 200
easy E112 of 200
hard HVS13 of 200
HVS155 of 200
easy HVS18 of 200
hard VS2 of 200
VS0 of 200
easy VS0 of 200
hard 5b0 of 280
5b0 of 280
easy 5b76 of 280
hard 5a57 of 280
5a124 of 280
easy 5a20 of 280
hard 4c3 of 280
4c0 of 280
easy 4c0 of 280
3 Stars248 of 253
2 Stars5 of 253
1 Star0 of 253
0 Stars0 of 253
Bag of .....0 of 253
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 779 (0.4%)
Lead470 of 779 (60.3%)
Followed225 of 779 (28.9%)
Toproped9 of 779 (1.2%)
Alt Leads16 of 779 (2.1%)
Unknown56 of 779 (7.2%)

'Climbed'238 of 779 (30.6%)
clean O/S369 of 779 (47.4%)
clean β39 of 779 (5.0%)
clean rpt45 of 779 (5.8%)
clean RP8 of 779 (1.0%)
dogged54 of 779 (6.9%)
dnf26 of 779 (3.3%)