30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first route to climb both tiers. 1) 4b, 20m. A crack leads to a step right into a groove then move back left again up another groove leading to the terrace. 2) 3b, 10m. Finish up the deep crack and easy chimney above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
oscaig 11/Oct AltLd O/S

P1 - which has some tough technical climbing for the grade but dirty/overgrown in places and poorly protected too. A challenging lead!

Peakpdr 10/Oct -
rob 528 26/Sep Lead O/S
Dan Geh 05/Sep Lead O/S

Terrible climb

tgeh 05/Sep 2nd O/S
dan geh
Dan Vaj 12/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul AltLd
DanChad 30/Jun 2nd O/S

Very dirty but had a nice back-and-footing section. Only did the first pitch then finished up Final Crack.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 30/Jun Lead

Epic route involving raptor shit, root grabs, nest grabs, digging gear placements out of mossy cracks (Peter Harding style...never thought I'd have to do that in The Peak nowadays), and an abb to retrieve lost gear. Did I mention the raptor shit?

Krista 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Mike Peak
mattgrange 21/Sep/14 AltLd

LP1.Disjointed and festooned with bird crap, but still some testing & interesting moves

gpcomps 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead
oddtoast 23/Aug/14 2nd


chris warner 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Dhan Ghale
chris warner 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Dhan Ghale
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 2nd
Rob Royle 14/Sep/13 Lead

Great climb! Couple of difficult moves that tested me.....

Hidden 01/Jul/13 AltLd
Tamati 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
JRigby 05/May/13 AltLd
johnself1603 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

clearly not worth 2 stars it gets in the BMC guide, led both pitches together

Jim Slater 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
kabutsu ??/2013 -
Hidden 22/Sep/12 -
Thinker01 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
yarrow 26/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 (4b)

beckybutcher91 26/Feb/12 AltLd
Harry Yarrow
Joey C 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Tom Redmond 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

nice route

Gazleah 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Curly Rich 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S


GMC Paul S
Allan FW 03/Sep/11 AltLd

Ken led the first pitch which was covered in vegetation and not particularly enjoyable.

antonymcphillips ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Johnny B Diggerman 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch and Dan the second pitch. Found first pitch to be green, grubby and overgrown. Not very enjoyable. Second pitch was better. Not worth the 1 star it gets.

stronglikebear 27/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S
mullermn 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Me P1, Kylie P2. Terrible climb, god knows how bad your regular climbs have to be for you to consider this worth a star. Covered in bird shit, greenery, dead birds (lots) and horrendous amounts of grass pollen. This route makes me want to physically assault the guide book author. Some small redeeming moves at the very top of P1.

Kylie 03/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Horrible doesn't come close to describing this route. Covered in bird shit and animal bones. A couple of nice moves on the top section. Would not recommend to a friend! I lead the second pitch. Got some help from the rope getting over a bit move on the first pitch.

masa-alpin 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Finished the second pitch on Final Crack.

Michelle A
keith leonard ??/2011 -
jimmys 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
hotfeet 04/Sep/10 Lead
donkster 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
pete buswell, ben
Marvino 02/Aug/10 Lead

Interesting, fun moves on the first pitch. Finished up Final Crack. Overall a great climb.

31770 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Jesse Dufton
stratandrew 07/Jul/10 AltLd
Andy Grantham
tontopink 07/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Oceanic 30/May/09 -
Panda 30/May/09 -
superturbo 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Kirill 12/Oct/08 AltLd

Led second pitch. Not very pleasant climb, dirty and damp, also slipped and fell when seconding the first pitch.

daviesp2 20/Sep/08 AltLd
AndyM-LVB 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Brendan Ferguson
ianslade 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
eagleopus 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
gareth r 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S


smolders 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

1 (4b) smolders, 2 (3c) Jason vegetated and dirty

kleinej 08/Jun/08 AltLd

Martin did the bird shit pitch (P1) and I did the bird nest pitch (P2). Nice moves on P1 but can't recommend this climb.

a_d_tru 31/May/08 AltLd
Alistair, Claire
manwithacam 01/Apr/08 -
timharrison 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/07 2nd O/S
ebunick 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
davek 19/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/07 2nd
Danos ?/Apr/07 Lead
trevor macalonan ??/2007 2nd RP
Hidden 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Caralynh 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Climbed as single pitch

Hidden 28/Apr/06 -
Andrew Abraham ?/Jul/05 2nd
A Crook 13/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Very green, but a nice flared Bridging move

James B 30/May/04 -
ASchwirtz 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S

shona lead second pitch

Shona D'arcy
Roget 20/Aug/91 Solo O/S
SimonN 28/Apr/91 2nd
Nigel Bond 03/Nov/85 Lead
Bryn Roberts
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/71 AltLd
High HVS
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High HS
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Votes cast 20
High 4c
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High 4b
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High 4a
Mid 4a
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Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set