Staffordshire > Hen Cloud >
 
Modern** S 4a

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[Modern Area, 3 kb]20m. Climb the long curving flake to a good 'sit-down' ledge. Finish up the crack in the right arete. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Advanced beginner Hen Cloud and Ramshaw, Classic Rock, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars.

Photo: Modern Area © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 278 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 16/Jul/14

carl_123 - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/14

Pumpy, felt high in the grade
csd23 - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Richard Dodds

WhipperSnapper - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/14 with Maxie, Minty

Cannot remember which one this was... I only know that I was body-belayed from the top, which I only found out afterwards :)
bazilikiukas - 02/Jan/14 with Maxie, Oliver skeoch

Odd fall and stop point to think about how to ascend. On a day with more motivation it would have been a lot easier
alexpeeeee - TR dog - 02/Jan/14 with WhipperSnapper, bazilikiukas

Hidden - 2014

rd20 - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/13 with Kim

Felt tough for the grade (HS 4b in the BMC Roaches guide)
kim.mulji - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/13 with PgClimbs

Seems to have been downgraded on UKC! Truth is probably around HS 4b, very good climb with great positions and varied moves.
mattgrange - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/13

Julian Prieto - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Viorel Chicu, Alan Blanchflower

Really nice climbing.
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Julian Prieto, Viskii Chicu

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/13

Fraser hill-casey - 02/Sep/13 with Jen 'Banksy' Banks

Hidden - Lead - Sep/13

gavster - Lead - 25/Aug/13 with dave

Done while waiting for the wind to drop a bit for a go on the Arete. Hugh's first outdoor climb - and it proved to be a bit of a tough intro but the lad did well and didn't come off.
EddieA - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Hugh, Joe A

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/13

moose ridd - AltLd - 15/Aug/13 with M.Sadler

Brilliant route and out of the wind too.
stokienomad - Lead - 10/Aug/13

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/13

Archbishop - Lead - 01/Aug/13 with Dave Thistle

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Paul Hy - 2nd rpt - 09/Jul/13 with Mike

Mayaculpa - Lead - 09/Jul/13 with Paul

blackholesun - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13

J1PEF - 04/Jul/13 with beds

If you are just leading this grade you'd have had your brown trousers on! Top crack 4a?....Reminiscent of a small left unconquerable. A superb small Gritstone pack a lot in route!
beds74 - Lead - 04/Jul/13 with Jon Peffer

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/13

angry pirate - Jul/13

bobpilgrem - 2nd - 21/Jun/13 with Dennis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

HassenBali - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Chris C

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Not too hard, but interesting without a big cam.
Goodstuff - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

Metalbear - Lead - 25/May/13 with John James McEvoy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

tradguy - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with philippa wiffen

Anne Gumbley - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Phil Wadsworth

Shaw Brown - Lead - 05/May/13 with Judith Neaves

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/13

farmerwad - Lead - 05/May/13 with S.O.C.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/13

Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 27/Apr/13

mark4344 - 2nd - 19/Apr/13 with Matt Payne

cheeky - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Mark Philipson

Attempted to lead, not got the bottle as first day outside this year and first outdoor lead in about 8 months, backed off and seconded, new rockfax says its VS 4b, felt harder than severe.
staceyjg - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Chris Gardner

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Mar/13

JamesWilliams - Lead O/S - 2013

TRFrost - 2nd O/S - 2013 with D. Gledson

fifth - 2013

Started up modern, but took the left crack instead of the right after the ledge for a slightly easier top out. Freezing fingers were completely numb.
gsavell - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/12 with Liam Carter

The grassy gully at the start detracts a bit from otherwise fine climbing. The crack seems a bit off balance at points but this is solved by good jamming.
pc1983 - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/12 with tomdavenport

tomdavenport - 2nd dog - 17/Nov/12 with Pete Colledge

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Vanessa Turney

Nigel Bond - Lead - 09/Oct/12 with Dave Dewhurst

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/12

Wolfy1987 NEWMC - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12

Darrell Read - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Oliver Mentz

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Claire

Chris Hind - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/12 with ash

ash longreach - 2nd - Aug/12 with Chris Hind

midgy
climbingxcat - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Brian

Daymo - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Len Oakes

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jul/12

Found this a test but loved every minute!!
dannyevos - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Steve Swanborough, Rick Clapham

Steve Swanborough - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Danny Evans, Rick Clapham

Didn't actually finish up the top wall, as a park ranger was concerned we were too close to the peregrines (the route wasn't in the bird ban, but he was polite, so no complaints really). Escaped to the right from the ledge. (Deservedly) HS 4b in the 2009 BMC guide
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Emily

Theeni - 2nd - 18/Mar/12

Darron - 2012

A Downing - 2012

Hidden - 2012

adie84 - 2012

Babika - 2012

Hidden - Solo - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 20/Nov/11

Anthony Dixon - 13/Nov/11

Alan Dixon - 2nd - 13/Nov/11 with Anthony Dixon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11

tom.ireson - 2nd rpt - 25/Oct/11 with Charlotte Latter

Steve J P - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with BW

Bernie Wylde - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with sp

Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Tony

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/11

Brought Andy up to the ledge for moral support before tackling upper wall.
Dux - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Andy Smith

Felix Ottey - 2nd - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/11

Ken led pitch one which was good with at least one "moment" half-way up. The top pitch is short (basically one move) but good.
Allan FW - AltLd - 03/Sep/11 with Ken

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/11

nrhardy - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Tim

This is a hard, hard route. The Folesmeister took himself a lob off the second half, I wouldn't have argued with a VS grade for this.
Ander - 2nd - 20/Aug/11 with Colonel Kurtz

gd303uk - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Alisingo

gingerwolf - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/11

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 02/Aug/11 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

good line..hard for Severe
mol - Lead - 30/Jul/11 with Jesse

Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Thomas Geh

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with dan geh

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Mel

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Jon Read - Solo - 23/Mar/11 with andi turner

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - 19/Mar/11

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/11 with Chris Fox

PAJames - 2011

birdie num num - 2011

keith leonard - 2011

AielSavage - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2011

jimmys - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Markus

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10

P2. Hard for 4a?
gary.barr - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/10 with Ally Singleton

b.hayley - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with alfredo

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Graeme, Steve C

easier but better than i remembered, good route
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Steve, Jim

Rampikino - Lead - 19/Jun/10 with Cat

Toby B 1985 - Lead - Jun/10

Thought this was a bit hard for grade and could easily be HS. Will have to come back and do this again after down climbing back to the ledge and seconding the last couple of metres. Should have placed more gear!
markblair - Lead dnf - 11/Apr/10 with Alison Dixon

djking1983 - 2nd - 10/Apr/10 with Rich Brammall

Bram - Lead - 10/Apr/10 with Dave King

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/10

felt like vs. came off on first move. Really nice steep route tho.
manwithacam - Lead - 03/Apr/10 with Sarah

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Dec/09

Hidden - 2nd RP - 17/Dec/09

much tougher than it should have been. (snow didn't help!)ended as a bit of a slog
ben comery - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/09 with Tom D

FANTASTIC!! also down as VS 4B in western grit
bavarianGaz - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/09 with Dan and Tom

Tom Lee-Field - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/09 with Dan, Gaz

sgl0jd - 08/Oct/09

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Sarah Clough

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/09

nice, but hard for S
Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Darren McMaster

shed_hed - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/09

Irn Bruce - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ian Jenkins

colinwarden - 2nd - 01/Jul/09 with Sean Robey

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/09

nathanroberts89 - TR O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/09

RCrockford - 2nd - 21/Jun/09 with Andy C

Very good but hard for Severe.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 16/Jun/09 with Simon Coldrick

Mike Roach - AltLd - 13/Jun/09 with Wilson To

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

donkster - 2nd rpt - 16/May/09 with DaveNW

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/09

BIG FALL, fell from top bounced off ledge! 2nd lead fall! badly bruised foot.
alias dave - Lead dnf - 02/May/09 with liam ....

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09

heart stopping moment from 3/4 way up, to main ledge no protection and lots of sloppers! lovely finish at top!
axeman - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with schofield

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/09

Danzig - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Rich Ogden

spacey - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with paul evans

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/09

DannyK - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09 with Katie

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - 2009

wilkie14c - 2009

Curving flake at beginning is superb, disturbed to find chockstone wobbles. From the big ledge the obvious continuation of the central hard to protect and extremely difficult crack is brutal: I fell off this innumerable times before I managed to climb it and didn't believe it could be the route. Have since seen Rockfax route topo for confrimation. There is no way that top central crack is a severe all the same. Should be VS.
jimorothy - Lead - 18/Oct/08 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

Kirill - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Gerard Thornley

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/08

GrantB - Lead - 21/Sep/08 with Dave the rave

Jon Read - Solo - 21/Sep/08

daviesp2 - 2nd - 20/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08

Very tricky. Very scary. Very much disagree with the grade.
Ashapalan - 2nd - 31/Jul/08 with ad and hillary

Should be graded about VS!
hils theaker - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/08 with Adam + Dave

Mike Turner - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Dave White

eagleopus - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Gareth

gareth r - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Hywel

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Jun/08

stevepotter - 2nd - 08/Jun/08 with paddygoodwin

cooper leek - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with donk

2 pitches
roscoe6 - Lead - 24/May/08

Unexpectedly scary!
ClaireS - 2nd - 21/May/08 with Tink

Hidden - TR O/S - 26/Apr/08

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/08

quantized - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/08 with Tom Buckley

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Mar/08

Hidden - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

RMAS
Theeni - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07

Caralynh - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Jez Hadall

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07

dja - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/07 with jodi

galpinos - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Nick V and Emily

C.J.Horsfield - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/07 with tom boyle, jonna

got pumped on short final wall, need to get stamina back
tomboyle - Lead dog - 22/Aug/07 with horsi

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/07

Tried and failed leading both pitches, off balance moves on 1st pitch then steep 2nd did for me! Pathetic
mart rich - 2nd - 04/Aug/07 with Steve Moody

PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Tom

fell twice
Mersea - Lead - 01/Jul/07 with Phil

Completely exhausted after this. only had three weeks off...
ungracefulathlete - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/07 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07

Jo wanted me to spot her on the final wall so beloayed me to the ledge. I led through to the top!
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/07 with Jo Bowen

davek - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/07 with Duncan

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/07

+ Graham Harris
Howard J - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/07 with Ronnie Abrams

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07

naughtybadboy - 2nd - 04/Feb/07

Steve Banham - Lead - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

EAYL - 2nd - 30/Aug/06 with Mat J

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/06

Hard for the grade, but (pitch 1) protectable with a big cam.
jonathannewth - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/06 with Jon G

Hopevalleypaul - 2nd - 29/Jul/06 with Gareth W

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/06

Admittedly I was hungover but this route was scary and hard for the grade, typical Hen Cloud!
Marvino - Lead - 02/Jul/06 with Rach

First time I've been really scared seconding. Ver y strenuous, much harder than it looks.Surely at least VS.
rachelwheatcroft - 2nd - Jul/06 with Marvino

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/06 with karing

Very Hard at S we did some VSs that were easier earlier in the day, completely knackered by the time I reached the first ledge
krikoman - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Rick Graham, Steve Wood

Hidden - 2nd - Feb/06

deklan - Lead - Jan/06

Hidden - Lead - 2006

bullybones - 2nd - 2006

nice! great moves near the top
2RoyalAnglian - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with mark ansty

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - Jul/05 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/05

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/05

mark s - 2005

Darragh - 2005

burnt - Lead O/S - Nov/04 with Richard Kirk

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - Nov/04 with Mike Bottomley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/04

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 21/Aug/04 with Phillipa Beale

Hopevalleypaul - 2nd - 24/Jul/04 with Mike C

Howard J - 2nd - 20/Jul/04 with Richard Bonheyo

Jon Read - Lead O/S - May/04 with Debs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/03

thetourist - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/03 with Claire Ryder

cem - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/03 with Rod Strachan

Sankey - 2nd - 07/Jun/03 with Rich + Offwidth

Mark Collins - Solo O/S - 07/Sep/02

Mark Collins - Solo - 07/Sep/02

kato'sdad - Lead - 28/Aug/02 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/02 with Jon Berry

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/02

gazbonutter - 2nd - 01/Mar/02 with Pete MacDonald

Hidden - Lead - Mar/02

Simon Caldwell - 2nd O/S - 2002 with Rich

Damon lead
Alaric - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/01 with Damon, Pierre Maxted

shaun walby - Lead O/S - Jun/01

BruceW - Lead O/S - 2001

MontyH - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/00

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/00

chrishedgehog - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/00 with Joe Thompson

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000 with Gaz Haynes

runestone - 2000

alan moore - Solo - 2000

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - Apr/99

rlrs - 2nd - 1999

barney@helmshore - 2nd - 28/Sep/97 with simon

brady - Lead - 01/Sep/96 with John Cameron

Iain Thow - Lead - 29/Aug/96 with Dave Walch

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Sep/94

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/92

stokienomad - Lead - 04/May/92

SimonN - 2nd - 28/Apr/91

Roget - Solo O/S - 26/Jan/91

Raggar - 2nd - 22/Apr/90

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/86

Howard J - 2nd - 10/Aug/83

Chris Craggs - 1980

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/77 with Shay Gorman

rogerskews - Lead - 1973 with Paul Barrow

mikej - Solo - 07/Apr/71 with Stewart Grant

Rog Wilko - Lead - Mar/71 with Debbie Wilkinson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
nesbear, Hidden, Hidden, DaveB61, Hidden, SuperLee1985, Rocktart, Hidden, Hidden, ruthonbike, steveth, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Mike Roach, Rob Messenger, Chris Sansum

Voting
Total votes cast 230
hard HS4 of 86
HS2 of 86
easy HS72 of 86
hard S7 of 86
S1 of 86
easy S0 of 86
hard HVD0 of 86
HVD0 of 86
easy HVD0 of 86
hard 4b2 of 78
4b4 of 78
easy 4b64 of 78
hard 4a3 of 78
4a5 of 78
easy 4a0 of 78
hard 3c0 of 78
3c0 of 78
easy 3c0 of 78
3 Stars16 of 66
2 Stars42 of 66
1 Star7 of 66
0 Stars1 of 66
Bag of .....0 of 66
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Style of ascent

Soloed10 of 278 (3.6%)
Lead138 of 278 (49.6%)
Followed90 of 278 (32.4%)
Toproped3 of 278 (1.1%)
Alt Leads11 of 278 (4.0%)
Unknown26 of 278 (9.4%)

'Climbed'139 of 278 (50.0%)
clean O/S118 of 278 (42.4%)
clean rpt10 of 278 (3.6%)
clean RP2 of 278 (0.7%)
dogged4 of 278 (1.4%)
dnf5 of 278 (1.8%)