Rockfax Description
20m. Climb the long curving flake to a good 'sit-down' ledge. Finish up the crack in the right arete. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Advanced beginner Hen Cloud and Ramshaw, Classic Rock, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars.

Paul Hy 23/Oct 2nd rpt

nicely lead that Nath.

Garnham 23/Oct Lead
strudles 18/Oct Lead O/S
with jun
Hidden 17/Oct 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 17/Oct Lead O/S

Ticked the 3 Classic Rock routes.

Joecartmell 15/Oct Lead O/S

Fair play if this was someones first lead, definitely a HS 4b, enjoyable though!

Hidden 03/Oct TR rpt
Hidden 27/Sep Lead O/S
mark4344 27/Sep 2nd
with Michel
Mike.Kinge 27/Sep 2nd O/S
with Rob
Ironmax 19/Sep Lead dog

My first lead!

with Luke Doherty
Hidden 13/Sep AltLd O/S
DanChad 11/Sep Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 11/Sep 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep Lead
mike_w18 06/Sep 2nd O/S
with Neil
Stanners 04/Sep Lead O/S

a brilliant crackline which required a lot more focussed climbing from me than I would expect on a severe! Settling in to yet another good paid day off work...could get used to this.

with Robbie Leishman
althesin 29/Aug AltLd O/S
schristophersmith 29/Aug AltLd RP
SuperLee1985 23/Aug Lead O/S

Really enjoyed the lower half of this route bit did the vd finish as the rain was coming. Fastest lead ive ever done but major faffing after to retrieve my gear as Sam wasn't keen on doing it in the wet.

with Sam Tucker
Chris1234H 16/Aug Lead O/S

VS in guidebook, top half was sustained

Hidden 08/Aug 2nd O/S
kez1 ?/Aug 2nd O/S
with Chris grant, gary smith, Andrew Boardman
Andrew Abraham 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Ceara
Dan Vaj 12/Jul Lead O/S
nigel bassam ?/Jul Lead
with Pam
stvey 29/Jun 2nd β
with Ollie
Dogwood 29/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun Lead
67hours 02/Jan Lead O/S


with Erinna, Steeeeeve
SteveCarratt 02/Jan 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd
GermanAlex 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Gets VS 4b in Rockfax, may be HS but absolutely no way Severe. Take a big(ish) cam or an extra portion of courage. Excellent climb though! Liked it more than Central Climb.

with Jack
Will Gordon 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Tough at S4a, not taking any large gear was an error and was due only to idleness.

bullybones 02/Oct/14 Lead
with Neil
Amber Chaloner 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
gavster 21/Sep/14 Lead

great climb on good jams , defo not severe ,more like hs 4b

with ruth
Ruthie 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Gavin
Sciguy 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Wilson
PeteWilson 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S

very hot/greasy, felt a little tough for HS?

arthur_de_briton 07/Sep/14 Lead
with Alex Pickard
Matt Harmon 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
amccann 06/Sep/14 Solo O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 16/Jul/14 2nd
carl_123 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
csd23 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Pumpy, felt high in the grade

with Richard Dodds
WhipperSnapper 02/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Maxie, Minty
bazilikiukas 02/Jan/14 -

Cannot remember which one this was... I only know that I was body-belayed from the top, which I only found out afterwards :)

alexpeeeee 02/Jan/14 TR dog

Odd fall and stop point to think about how to ascend. On a day with more motivation it would have been a lot easier

Hidden ??/2014 -
Tom_Shill ??/2014 -
andybirtwistle ??/2014 -
rd20 20/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Kim
kim.mulji 20/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Felt tough for the grade (HS 4b in the BMC Roaches guide)

mattgrange 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Seems to have been downgraded on UKC! Truth is probably around HS 4b, very good climb with great positions and varied moves.

Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd
Julian Prieto 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing.

Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 2nd
Fraser hill-casey 02/Sep/13 -
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
gavster 25/Aug/13 Lead
with dave
EddieA 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Done while waiting for the wind to drop a bit for a go on the Arete. Hugh's first outdoor climb - and it proved to be a bit of a tough intro but the lad did well and didn't come off.

with Hugh, Joe A
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Ste Ridd 15/Aug/13 AltLd
stokienomad 10/Aug/13 Lead

Brilliant route and out of the wind too.

j.buckley87 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Archbishop 01/Aug/13 Lead
with Dave Thistle
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 09/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Mike
Mayaculpa 09/Jul/13 Lead
with Paul
blackholesun 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
J1PEF 04/Jul/13 -
with beds
beds74 04/Jul/13 Lead

If you are just leading this grade you'd have had your brown trousers on! Top crack 4a?....Reminiscent of a small left unconquerable. A superb small Gritstone pack a lot in route!

Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead
angry pirate ?/Jul/13 -
bobpilgrem 21/Jun/13 2nd
with Dennis
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
HassenBali 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Chris C
David_Gledson 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Very nice climbing indeed. And a perfect evening.

with Tom
Goodstuff 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Not too hard, but interesting without a big cam.

Metalbear 25/May/13 Lead
with John James McEvoy
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
tradguy 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Anne Gumbley 05/May/13 2nd
with Phil Wadsworth
Shaw Brown 05/May/13 Lead
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd
farmerwad 05/May/13 Lead
with S.O.C.
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 27/Apr/13 Solo rpt
mark4344 19/Apr/13 2nd
with Matt Payne
cheeky 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
staceyjg 07/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Attempted to lead, not got the bottle as first day outside this year and first outdoor lead in about 8 months, backed off and seconded, new rockfax says its VS 4b, felt harder than severe.

Hidden 05/Mar/13 2nd O/S
friendzone1234 ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams ??/2013 Lead O/S
TRFrost ??/2013 2nd O/S
with D. Gledson
fifth ??/2013 -
MikeDowsett ??/2013 2nd
with Bill Bowley
rob 528 ??/2013 Lead O/S
gsavell 24/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Started up modern, but took the left crack instead of the right after the ledge for a slightly easier top out. Freezing fingers were completely numb.

with Liam Carter
pc1983 17/Nov/12 Lead O/S

The grassy gully at the start detracts a bit from otherwise fine climbing. The crack seems a bit off balance at points but this is solved by good jamming.

tomdavenport 17/Nov/12 2nd dog
with Pete Colledge
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 09/Oct/12 Lead
with Dave Dewhurst
Hidden 09/Oct/12 2nd
Wolfy1987 NEWMC 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Darrell Read 01/Sep/12 Lead
JamieSparkes 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S
ash longreach ?/Aug/12 2nd
climbingxcat 25/Jul/12 2nd O/S


with Brian
Daymo 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead
dannyevos 27/May/12 2nd O/S

Found this a test but loved every minute!!

with Steve Swanborough, Rick Clapham
Steve Swanborough 27/May/12 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Didn't actually finish up the top wall, as a park ranger was concerned we were too close to the peregrines (the route wasn't in the bird ban, but he was polite, so no complaints really). Escaped to the right from the ledge. (Deservedly) HS 4b in the 2009 BMC guide

with Emily
Theeni 18/Mar/12 2nd
Darron ??/2012 -
A Downing ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
Hidden 20/Nov/11 Lead
Anthony Dixon 13/Nov/11 -
Alan Dixon 13/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 25/Oct/11 2nd rpt
Steve J P 02/Oct/11 2nd
with BW
Bernie Wylde 02/Oct/11 Lead
with sp
Paul Hy 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Tony
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Dux 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Brought Andy up to the ledge for moral support before tackling upper wall.

Felix Ottey 24/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead
Allan FW 03/Sep/11 AltLd

Ken led pitch one which was good with at least one "moment" half-way up. The top pitch is short (basically one move) but good.

with Ken
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead
nrhardy 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Tim
Ander 20/Aug/11 2nd

This is a hard, hard route. The Folesmeister took himself a lob off the second half, I wouldn't have argued with a VS grade for this.

gd303uk 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
gingerwolf 09/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Steve Lenartowicz 02/Aug/11 Lead
with Clare
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mol 30/Jul/11 Lead

good line..hard for Severe

with Jesse
Dan Geh 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
tgeh 25/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Rob84 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Mel
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jon Read 23/Mar/11 Solo
Graham Westbrook 19/Mar/11 2nd
PeteH 26/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with Chris Fox
PAJames ??/2011 -
birdie num num ??/2011 -
keith leonard ??/2011 -
AielSavage ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
jimmys 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Markus
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
gary.barr 21/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

P2. Hard for 4a?

b.hayley 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with alfredo
gingerwolf 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 26/Jun/10 2nd rpt

easier but better than i remembered, good route

with Steve, Jim
Rampikino 19/Jun/10 Lead
with Cat
Toby B 1985 ?/Jun/10 Lead
markblair 11/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Thought this was a bit hard for grade and could easily be HS. Will have to come back and do this again after down climbing back to the ledge and seconding the last couple of metres. Should have placed more gear!

with Alison Dixon
djking1983 10/Apr/10 2nd
Bram 10/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/10 2nd
manwithacam 03/Apr/10 Lead

felt like vs. came off on first move. Really nice steep route tho.

with Sarah
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 17/Dec/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 17/Dec/09 2nd RP
ben comery 17/Dec/09 Lead O/S

much tougher than it should have been. (snow didn't help!)ended as a bit of a slog

with Tom D
bavarianGaz 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S

FANTASTIC!! also down as VS 4B in western grit

with Dan and Tom
Tom Lee-Field 13/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Dan, Gaz
sgl0jd 08/Oct/09 -
Mr. K 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 27/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S

nice, but hard for S

shed_hed 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Irn Bruce 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
colinwarden 01/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead
nathanroberts89 ?/Jul/09 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead dnf
RCrockford 21/Jun/09 2nd
with Andy C
Steve Waters, Mynydd 16/Jun/09 2nd

Very good but hard for Severe.

Mike Roach 13/Jun/09 AltLd
with Wilson To
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
donkster 16/May/09 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
Hidden 16/May/09 Lead O/S
alias dave 02/May/09 Lead dnf

BIG FALL, fell from top bounced off ledge! 2nd lead fall! badly bruised foot.

with liam ....
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
axeman 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S

heart stopping moment from 3/4 way up, to main ledge no protection and lots of sloppers! lovely finish at top!

with schofield
Hidden 21/Apr/09 2nd
Danzig 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rich Ogden
spacey 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
DannyK 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Katie
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
wilkie14c ??/2009 -
jimorothy 18/Oct/08 Lead

Curving flake at beginning is superb, disturbed to find chockstone wobbles. From the big ledge the obvious continuation of the central hard to protect and extremely difficult crack is brutal: I fell off this innumerable times before I managed to climb it and didn't believe it could be the route. Have since seen Rockfax route topo for confrimation. There is no way that top central crack is a severe all the same. Should be VS.

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Kirill 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
GrantB 21/Sep/08 Lead
with Dave the rave
Jon Read 21/Sep/08 Solo
daviesp2 20/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Ashapalan 31/Jul/08 2nd

Very tricky. Very scary. Very much disagree with the grade.

with ad and hillary
hils theaker 31/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Should be graded about VS!

with Adam + Dave
Mike Turner 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Dave White
eagleopus 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Gareth
gareth r 15/Jun/08 2nd
with Hywel
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead RP
stevepotter 08/Jun/08 2nd
cooper leek ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with donk
roscoe6 24/May/08 Lead

2 pitches

ClaireS 21/May/08 2nd

Unexpectedly scary!

with Tink
Hidden 26/Apr/08 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd
quantized 22/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Buckley
Hidden 08/Mar/08 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Theeni 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S


Caralynh 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
dja 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with jodi
galpinos 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Nick V and Emily
C.J.Horsfield 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with tom boyle, jonna
tomboyle 22/Aug/07 Lead dog

got pumped on short final wall, need to get stamina back

with horsi
Hidden 20/Aug/07 2nd O/S
mart rich 04/Aug/07 2nd

Tried and failed leading both pitches, off balance moves on 1st pitch then steep 2nd did for me! Pathetic

with Steve Moody
PanzerHanzler 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Tom
Mersea 01/Jul/07 Lead

fell twice

with Phil
ungracefulathlete 12/Jun/07 2nd O/S

Completely exhausted after this. only had three weeks off...

with Ben
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 25/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Jo wanted me to spot her on the final wall so beloayed me to the ledge. I led through to the top!

with Jo Bowen
davek 19/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Duncan
Hidden 19/Apr/07 2nd
Howard J 25/Mar/07 2nd dog

+ Graham Harris

with Ronnie Abrams
Hidden 21/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
naughtybadboy 04/Feb/07 2nd
Steve Banham ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
EAYL 30/Aug/06 2nd
with Mat J
LakesWinter 05/Aug/06 Lead
with Wil
jonathannewth 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Hard for the grade, but (pitch 1) protectable with a big cam.

with Jon G
Hopevalleypaul 29/Jul/06 2nd
with Gareth W
Hidden 13/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Marvino 02/Jul/06 Lead

Admittedly I was hungover but this route was scary and hard for the grade, typical Hen Cloud!

with Rach
rachelwheatcroft ?/Jul/06 2nd

First time I've been really scared seconding. Ver y strenuous, much harder than it looks.Surely at least VS.

with Marvino
dan gibson 24/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with karing
krikoman 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Very Hard at S we did some VSs that were easier earlier in the day, completely knackered by the time I reached the first ledge

with Rick Graham, Steve Wood
Hidden ?/Feb/06 2nd
deklan ?/Jan/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
bullybones ??/2006 2nd
2RoyalAnglian ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

nice! great moves near the top

with mark ansty
Ybot Htulk ?/Jul/05 2nd
with Pete
Hidden 15/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Darragh ??/2005 -
burnt ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with Richard Kirk
dicky79 ?/Nov/04 2nd O/S
with Mike Bottomley
Hidden 10/Oct/04 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 21/Aug/04 Lead
with Phillipa Beale
Hopevalleypaul 24/Jul/04 2nd
Howard J 20/Jul/04 2nd
with Richard Bonheyo
Jon Read ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Debs
Hidden 04/Oct/03 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 04/Sep/03 Lead
thetourist 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Claire Ryder
cem 15/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Rod Strachan
Sankey 07/Jun/03 2nd
with Rich + Offwidth
Mark Collins 07/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Mark Collins 07/Sep/02 Solo
kato'sdad 28/Aug/02 Lead
RobSimmo 28/Aug/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/02 Lead
gazbonutter 01/Mar/02 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/02 Lead
Simon Caldwell ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Rich
Alaric 21/Jul/01 2nd O/S

Damon lead

with Damon, Pierre Maxted
shaun walby ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
BruceW ??/2001 Lead O/S
MontyH 21/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/00 Lead
chrishedgehog 09/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with Joe Thompson
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Gaz Haynes
runestone ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 Solo
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Apr/99 Lead
rlrs ??/1999 2nd
mjeffery ??/1999 -
barney@helmshore 28/Sep/97 2nd
with simon
brady 01/Sep/96 Lead
with John Cameron
Iain Thow 29/Aug/96 Lead
with Dave Walch
nacnud 04/Nov/95 Lead
Hidden 17/Sep/94 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/92 Lead
stokienomad 04/May/92 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Maggie McAndrew
SimonN 28/Apr/91 2nd
Roget 26/Jan/91 Solo O/S
Raggar 22/Apr/90 2nd
Babika 10/Jun/89 Lead
with Fred Cochrane
Hidden 08/Jun/86 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/84 Lead
Howard J 10/Aug/83 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
RichardMc 30/Apr/77 Lead O/S
with Shay Gorman
tapley 28/Aug/74 Lead
with Alison Tapley
rogerskews ??/1973 Lead
with Paul Barrow
mikej 07/Apr/71 Solo
with Stewart Grant
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, DanChad, Chris1234H, RyanOsborne, Hidden, nesbear, DaveB61, TizzyA, SuperLee1985, Rocktart, Hidden, Hidden, ruthonbike, steveth, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Mike Roach, Rob Messenger, Chris Sansum
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 105
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 79
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set