Rockfax Description
18m. The long crack and flake in the right-hand wall of the chimney give a fine jamming and laybacking pitch. It can be gained from the left (or direct which is nearer HVS). © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Peak: past and Present, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans.

Longsufferingropeholder 28/May Lead O/S

Start was a bit chewy for VS

Sam Husband 28/May Lead O/S

Could have done with a few more big cams for the top section.

with Ed
DanielBryan 17/May Lead
with Charlie
Hidden 17/May Lead
AndrewP 17/May Lead O/S
with Josh Chappel
gavster 17/Apr Lead
with Ad
Stotty_88 17/Apr 2nd O/S
with gav
onlyfoddington 10/Apr Lead O/S

Tricky start and a sustained finish.

with Tabby, Tom C
tcn_2002 10/Apr 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar Lead O/S
jrccrosby 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Left hand start looked far more appealing so went for that, probably the hardest bit. Lay backs at the top took some nerve to start but gave confidence once on them with some foot jams too.

with Elsie
Stanners 11/Oct/15 2nd O/S

commit to the lay backing and its not too bad

with Giles
Hidden 03/Oct/15 TR rpt
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd
Monkey_Alan 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
mark4344 27/Sep/15 Lead
with Michel
Hidden 21/Sep/15 2nd rpt
matt1024 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Stevenson
Kemics 10/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Complete nightmare. Fell off the start when I thought lichen was chalk. Wobbled up on thin ring locks 2nd attempt. (definitely think this is one of those cracks which is better to layback!) Didnt take enough big cams. So had to hang on hand jam while I lowered a loop of rope for a cam so I wouldnt deck. More awkward fist jamming to finish. Was glad when it was over.

with Mel
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead
Gary Coggon 20/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Stiffer than remembered from c 1986/7 (2nd: Ian Le Fevre)

Hidden 20/Aug/15 2nd dog
Chris1234H 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
No? Yes! 01/Aug/15 2nd
Rollo 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Ben M, jsk
benwmorgan 23/Jul/15 2nd β
with Rollo
jennysknight 23/Jul/15 TR
with Roly
JEP 21/Jul/15 Lead rpt
sianabanana 11/Jul/15 TR dog

I couldn't really get started with the direct start. So wussed out and tackled the left. Nice enough but strenuous. Quite scary !

with Merten
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 21/May/15 2nd O/S
Stig 20/May/15 Lead O/S

On John's gear.

with Scott
DanChad 12/May/15 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 12/May/15 2nd

Made a mess of the start. Disappointing as I led it fairly comfortably about 17 years ago.

andyclimber 22/Apr/15 TR O/S
jonhowson 08/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Awesome, two different climbs in one. Really enjoyed the top crack.

with Pete, Chris
jonnie3430 03/Apr/15 2nd
with Will, Henry
DWebs 26/Oct/14 2nd O/S
GermanAlex 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Awesome, route of the day! Definitely one I had to work for, surprisingly the bottom was the tech crux for me. The steep bits of the upper sections are overcome by sinker fist jams for one hand and laybacking with the other. The true Top50 VS on the crag!

with Jack
Nigel Bond 03/Oct/14 Lead
with Coel
brian watson 28/Sep/14 2nd
natalio 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Very nice climb, a few awkward moves on the bulging bit of the crack.

with Chris B
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/14 2nd O/S
arthur_de_briton 07/Sep/14 Lead
with Alex Pickard
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 31/Aug/14 2nd dog

perhaps shouldn't have broken a two year grit-fast with this as a warm-up... found the starting moves (direct) quite tough and the exit a thrutch, but it's a great route.

with janet & ben, stuart walker, tony walker
andybirtwistle 29/Jul/14 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
philmitch 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Dave L
gavster 01/Jun/14 Lead

great climb ,direct start , good fun !

with ruth
Ruthie 01/Jun/14 2nd

Wow certainly gave me a buzz!

with Gavin
cem 05/May/14 2nd rpt
CrispsSmiths 05/May/14 Lead
with cem
Andy Chubb 04/May/14 Lead

More lay-backing than jamming. The hardest bit was getting off the ground. From there, fairly straight forward

with Steve Goodman
PeteWilson 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with James, John P, Dave
Hidden ??/2014 -
chrisallan 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Fragmod 14/Sep/13 Lead
James Oakes 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
wishicud climbHVS 28/Aug/13 2nd

WOW. Dan did direct start on the left. From bottom to top this route is a pure jam fest, tough and sustained. Disengage brain and pull!!! Good effort

JenDurden 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Gramps
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd dog
Ian Bell 27/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Hard cause I can't jam! Spat me off a few times incl once onto the ground. A bit battered. Eventually gave up as ran out of big gear and down climbed.

with Sabrina
Mike Turner 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
riff156 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with julie Carlise, Jo Smith
Dave138 13/Jul/13 -

bigger gear needed for the top section than i first imagined made the crux section more interesting than it should have been. Avoid putting a sling around the resident bottle that had fallen in the crack and up to (shaky) victory...(well not a massive fall)...

shaunhumphreys 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

direct start, got abit scared at top when i didnt have any gear big enough to fit

with Jem
dan_blair87 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
chrisbussell 11/Jun/13 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ragabond007 04/Jun/13 Lead RP

awesome and my hardest climb to date, pumped after the first section which I thought was the hardest bit, ideally need to belay at the ledge good anchor points, lay back the second pitch which after the first move is all that hard to the top.

ranga 01/Jun/13 2nd
vassy05 ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
sputnik 26/May/13 2nd rpt
Calum Wadsworth 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfairbank 05/May/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd β
g1m147 28/Apr/13 Lead
with Mick.
fatbuoybazza 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Hello Dave..

Chris Sansum 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Phil P1, Chris P2

with Phil Gibson
Hidden 28/Feb/13 2nd O/S
saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
rob 528 ??/2013 Lead O/S
demarcation86 10/Nov/12 Lead dog

Very wet.

with Elbish, Paul
SteWatkins ?/Oct/12 -
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
AJ007 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Brian
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
francois 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Chris
BelayBunney 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Very pleasant! Good practice for my jamming too! Proably only hard-VS/hard-5a is your jamming is not optimal (like mine).

Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Truan 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead
Darrell Read 01/Sep/12 2nd
Peakpdr 12/Aug/12 -

Direct Hvs..

Rob Davies 10/Aug/12 Lead
with Pete Trewin, Dave Nicol
sputnik 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mrs Z
c00kie 02/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Leander
Different Steve 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Jason
jasonpm 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Steve IMC
sambosanquet101 22/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd
Tithe Technique 15/Jul/12 TR O/S
charley 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Right hand start - Led just after doing the left hand start so obviously the top section wasn't O/S. Lovely off-width climbing, felt great on it. The tips I picked up from the Crack School definitely helped. Wouldn't give it HVS, thought both starts were a similar grade.

with Ange
charley 15/Jul/12 Lead RP

Left hand start - Stupidly messed up the second or third move at the start; got my hands wrong, over balanced and then barndoored. Had a "I'm off, no I'm on, nope I'm off" moment. Got it fine the second time. Awesome layback on the top section - Brilliant route, loved it..

valentinesbabe 15/Jul/12 TR O/S

LEFT HAND START Found start straightforward on toprope, loads of excellent jams once you'd made the first couple of moves...not sure if I would've found it so easy on lead having to place gear. Top half a good layback (even though I hate laybacking) Excellent route.

valentinesbabe 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S

RIGHT HAND START Enjoyed this. Bit of a struggle retrieving Charley's gear as he's so much taller than me so had to use all the techniques learnt at Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker's Crack School to gain the height I needed. Really nice route and I didn't find it any harder than the left hand start. Second part, the layback was a repeat having done the left hand start and felt harder this time with tired arms.

chumleywarner 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S

With the easier non off width start, folled Charley

stuaart 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Neil Redgrave
TimKnight 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Direct Start... a good battle; strenuous and bold but good fun (once finished)

with Dave Marshall
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead
will randall 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with sarah
Matt JM Stevens 09/May/12 2nd
Joey C 09/May/12 2nd O/S
with Matt Stevens
john lynch 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Austin
Don Jebus 13/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with James
joese7en 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
cat22 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
bigdrew 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
mark20 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Calder 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
tim.fairhall 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
lizzie789 03/Sep/11 Lead dnf
lizzie789 03/Sep/11 2nd rpt
marcduhig 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Left hand start

Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead
tmawer 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Right hand start.

with Jaime Robertson
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead
mol 31/Jul/11 2nd

great climb, solid laybacking for the top half

with Jesse
joemallia 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
SGD 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

left hand start, didn't like the look of the nests in the direct version. jams followed by Laybacks and mantles, good stuff.

Dave Mahon ?/Jun/11 2nd

good lead Matt!

matt.jj ?/Jun/11 Lead
Mike Tutt 28/May/11 Lead

left hand start

SteveM 22/Apr/11 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with SteveM
tgeh 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Mar/11 2nd RP
Tombauer 24/Mar/11 2nd
Peakology 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

I did this in twilight, Dave seconded in near pitch dark. Probably felt hard because neither of us could see the footholds.

with Dave
PAJames ??/2011 -
keith leonard ??/2011 -
Hidden 21/Nov/10 2nd dnf
P Rogers 07/Nov/10 Lead dnf

A right good struggle up offwidth start, then bottled at base of flake & lowered off. Abbed in to retrieve gear.

with matty
Hidden ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
donkster 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with den steve
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
gary.barr 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Awesome climb! I can't imagine it getting any easier no matter how many times I climb it. Jamming all the way. Love it!

hotfeet 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Garron 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
JRae 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Oli H
Oliver Houston 01/Aug/10 2nd
feilx 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 17/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Simon Chandler
jon_gill1 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
JWB 17/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead
rod757 ?/Jul/10 Lead
LittleClimbingMaria 29/Jun/10 -
RFWilkie 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
matt.jj 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Climbed direct, which is a little tricky, mainly getting the gear in. Loved the route, especially the slightly overhanging layback crack near the top. The holds are all there though, just when you need them!

Toby B 1985 ?/Jun/10 Lead
Col Allott 23/May/10 Lead
with james, kat, jon kelly
Hidden ??/2010 -
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
dannyboy83 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
shed_hed 26/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
hellboundblr 20/Sep/09 2nd

Failed on lead.

with Danny Smudge
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/09 Lead O/S
martin one 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with dave knight
Irn Bruce 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Direct, HVS version. Difficult crack to start but jugs found above once I mustered the stones to go for them. Rainbow crack itself was layback heaven!

jonka ?/Aug/09 2nd
with sean
wrapped in bacon ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Great climb

with James, Rob
Mr Wild 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

very pleasant

Dave Rumney 18/Jul/09 2nd
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 24/Jun/09 2nd O/S
RCrockford 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Andy C
Danhan 20/Jun/09 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Lead
JEP 16/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Dr Caterpillar 02/Nov/08 Lead O/S

really nice climb

with UBMC
Hidden 01/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/08 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd
bullwinkle 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with John
Pete Graham 31/May/08 Lead
with Luke Porter
Neil Henson 21/May/08 2nd

Great route, shame I didn't climb it very well though.

with Graham Robinson
dprctr ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jens Verhaegh
Jim Slater 26/Apr/08 Lead dog

Rested on gear on the lower crack. Top half of climb - good stuff!

jeffb 26/Apr/08 2nd
with andy c
@ndy 26/Apr/08 Lead dog
rob wmc 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Jim
Daymo ?/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
sadams 09/Feb/08 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 12/Nov/07 2nd O/S
jameswbrae 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S

Fun laybacky fight! Grr.

with Alan Sage
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
BallsofBritishSteel 10/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Charles
cem 09/Sep/07 2nd
tonanf 02/Sep/07 2nd
with burt
tatz45 ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Quentin O'Brien
scullymammoth 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Beth
trevor macalonan 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Tim
timharrison 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
cragdan 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Sam
dan gibson 11/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with sam read
PanzerHanzler 19/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Tom
RocknRoll ?/Jul/07 Lead dog

First you struggle up a vertical crack and when you think you are home and dry you then have to overcome two difficult maouevres that aren't simple hand jams or crimps.

with Liz Kooper
jasonpm 09/Jun/07 2nd RP
with Dave, Dave.
khawk ?/Jun/07 Lead
with WH
Mark D 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Andrew Duggan
tom_1985 01/May/07 Lead O/S
with Charlie T
tlr 29/Apr/07 Lead
with Richard
Hidden 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
EAYL 30/Nov/06 2nd
with Peak Phil
Peakphil 30/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Si dH 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S

direct "HVS" version - not noticeably harder tha nthe top though despite my dislike of offwidths. Slightly damp in places.

with Neil Furniss
K Wall 23/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Caralynh 08/Aug/06 Lead

What a nightmare!!! 2 cruxes, including an overhanging layback got up with much gibbering, then ran out of the right gear.

Hidden 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
rilem 29/Jul/06 2nd
with Ian W
Nicos 11/Jun/06 Solo O/S
with keith leonard
Hidden 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/06 TR
masa-alpin 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S

Good jamming start.

with Adam W
Hidden 13/Sep/05 2nd
Lawrence Eccles 03/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with A. Crook
AngelaC 28/Aug/05 Lead
Rob Davies 07/Aug/05 2nd
with Phil Ashton
maybe_si ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Chesh ?/May/05 Lead

Got gear in a mess and fell off trying to sort it out!

with Lawrence
Smelly Fox ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
donkster ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with trigg
Dave Latimer 09/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead dog
jimshrimp 31/Jul/04 Lead O/S

From what I can remember- an amazing route. Must make an effort to head back over and repeat.

Hidden 21/Jun/04 Lead
r0b 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Mark Humphries
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Debs
aulda 10/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Dave R
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead
Gus ??/2003 Lead
MontyH 11/May/02 Lead
with Andy Lawrance
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
Brian Rodgers ??/2001 Lead
with Helen Rea
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Gaz Haynes
bullybones ??/2000 Lead
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Aug/99 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/99 Lead
with Richard Bower
Hidden 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/97 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 17/Jun/97 2nd β
brady 01/Sep/96 2nd
with John Cameron
Iain Thow 29/Aug/96 2nd
with Dave Walch
Gordon Stainforth 16/Jul/95 2nd
with Mick Wrigley, Steve Dean, Pete Sutton
Marti999 ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 17/Sep/94 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/94 TR
Roget 23/Jun/92 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/May/92 Lead
RichardMc 10/May/92 Lead
IanGilbertJones 04/May/92 2nd O/S
Andy Fielding ??/1992 2nd
with Mark Lardner
Chris Ellis 18/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy Barker
sadams 16/Sep/90 2nd
with Mark Bonham
Hidden 31/May/90 Lead
Raggar 22/Apr/90 AltLd
with mike p, Steve P
steve prior ?/Aug/89 Lead
with Rob W
angry pirate ??/1989 Lead
Martin Bennett 18/Sep/88 -
with MT
Hidden 24/Aug/86 -
Hidden 28/Aug/82 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Hammy 09/Jul/79 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
Nigel Bond 09/Dec/78 Lead
with Martin Crosby
babymoac 26/Jun/77 2nd
with SWH
RichardMc 30/Apr/77 2nd
with Dave Langmead
Dave Musgrove 23/May/76 -
rogerskews ??/1973 Lead
with Martin Coward
tapley 02/Nov/69 Lead O/S
with Derek Montford
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 78
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set