UKC Logbook - 'Rainbow Crack'

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Staffordshire > Hen Cloud >

Rainbow Crack

VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Great Chimney

Arêtenophobia >>

18m. The long crack and flake in the right-hand wall of the chimney give a fine jamming and laybacking pitch. It can be gained from the left (or direct which is nearer HVS). © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Peak: past and Present.

Photo: Rainbow Crack © Cheshire Dave
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 218 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

chrisbussell - Lead - 11/Jun/13 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13

awesome and my hardest climb to date, pumped after the first section which I thought was the hardest bit, ideally need to belay at the ledge good anchor points, lay back the second pitch which after the first move is all that hard to the top.
ragabond007 - Lead RP - 04/Jun/13

ranga - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

sputnik - 2nd rpt - 26/May/13

Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Mark

markfairbank - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Calum Wadsworth

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/13

Hello Dave..
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with liv_the_div

Phil P1, Chris P2
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Phil Gibson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Nov/12

SteWatkins - Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

francois - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Chris

Very pleasant! Good practice for my jamming too! Proably only hard-VS/hard-5a is your jamming is not optimal (like mine).
BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Francois

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12

Truan - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/12

Darrell Read - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Oliver Mentz

Direct Hvs..
pauldr - 12/Aug/12

sputnik - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/12 with Mrs Z

c00kie - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/12 with Leander

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Jason

jasonpm - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Steve IMC

sambosanquet101 - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Martin Jones

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jul/12

Tithe Technique - TR O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Steve Fletcher, Angela Paul, Charley Fell

Right hand start - Led just after doing the left hand start so obviously the top section wasn't O/S. Lovely off-width climbing, felt great on it. The tips I picked up from the Crack School definitely helped. Wouldn't give it HVS, thought both starts were a similar grade.
charley - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Ange

Left hand start - Stupidly messed up the second or third move at the start; got my hands wrong, over balanced and then barndoored. Had a "I'm off, no I'm on, nope I'm off" moment. Got it fine the second time. Awesome layback on the top section - Brilliant route, loved it..
charley - Lead RP - 15/Jul/12 with Steve Fletcher, Ange, Kev

LEFT HAND START Found start straightforward on toprope, loads of excellent jams once you'd made the first couple of moves...not sure if I would've found it so easy on lead having to place gear. Top half a good layback (even though I hate laybacking) Excellent route.
valentinesbabe - TR O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe, Steven Fletcher

RIGHT HAND START Enjoyed this. Bit of a struggle retrieving Charley's gear as he's so much taller than me so had to use all the techniques learnt at Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker's Crack School to gain the height I needed. Really nice route and I didn't find it any harder than the left hand start. Second part, the layback was a repeat having done the left hand start and felt harder this time with tired arms.
valentinesbabe - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Charley Fell

With the easier non off width start, folled Charley
chumleywarner - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Angela Paul

stuaart - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Neil Redgrave

Direct Start... a good battle; strenuous and bold but good fun (once finished)
TimKnight - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Dave Marshall

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/12

will randall - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with sarah

Matt JM Stevens - 2nd - 09/May/12

Joey C - 2nd O/S - 09/May/12 with Matt Stevens

john lynch - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Ed Austin

Don Jebus - 2nd O/S - 13/Jan/12 with James

joese7en - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/12

Hidden - 2012

adie84 - 2012

cat22 - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Mike

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Mark R

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11

Calder - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

lizzie789 - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/11 with Marc Duhig

lizzie789 - 2nd rpt - 03/Sep/11 with Marc Duhig

Left hand start
marcduhig - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Sexy Liz

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/11

Right hand start.
tmawer - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/11 with Jaime Robertson

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/11

great climb, solid laybacking for the top half
mol - 2nd - 31/Jul/11 with Jesse

joemallia - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Tim Rolfe

left hand start, didn't like the look of the nests in the direct version. jams followed by Laybacks and mantles, good stuff.
SGD - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Rob Gray

left hand start
Mike Tutt - Lead - 28/May/11

SteveM - Lead - 22/Apr/11 with Kat

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with SteveM

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with dan geh

Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Thomas Geh

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 08/Apr/11

Tricky introduction to cracks / laybacks... Got through first section but bottled half way up the flake after the ledge, ran out of juice to place more protection! Followed partner.
James Gomez - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/11 with Tom Bauer

Followed up having bottled the lead. Next time.
James Gomez - 2nd RP - 24/Mar/11 with Tom Bauer

Tombauer - 2nd - 24/Mar/11 with James Gomez

I did this in twilight, Dave seconded in near pitch dark. Probably felt hard because neither of us could see the footholds.
Peakology - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Dave

Hidden - 2011

keith leonard - 2011

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Nov/10

A right good struggle up offwidth start, then bottled at base of flake & lowered off. Abbed in to retrieve gear.
P Rogers - Lead dnf - 07/Nov/10 with matty

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/10

donkster - Lead rpt - 24/Oct/10 with den steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

Awesome climb! I can't imagine it getting any easier no matter how many times I climb it. Jamming all the way. Love it!
gary.barr - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10 with Ally Singleton

hotfeet - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Alex

Garron - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10

JRae - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Oli H

Oliver Houston - 2nd - 01/Aug/10

feilx - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

PanzerHanzler - 2nd rpt - 17/Jul/10 with Simon Chandler

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with john beardmore

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/10

rod757 - Lead - Jul/10

LittleClimbingMaria - 29/Jun/10

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Mark

Climbed direct, which is a little tricky, mainly getting the gear in. Loved the route, especially the slightly overhanging layback crack near the top. The holds are all there though, just when you need them!
matt.jj - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Toby B 1985 - Lead - Jun/10

Col Allott - Lead - 23/May/10 with james, kat, jon kelly

Hidden - 2010

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Alice

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Darren McMaster

shed_hed - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09

Failed on lead, followed Danny, bad day climbing.
hellboundblr - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Danny Smudge

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/09

martin one - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with dave knight

Direct, HVS version. Difficult crack to start but jugs found above once I mustered the stones to go for them. Rainbow crack itself was layback heaven!
Irn Bruce - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ian Jenkins

jonka - 2nd - Aug/09 with sean

Great climb
wrapped in bacon - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with James, Rob

very pleasant
Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with jon m

Dave Rumney - 2nd - 18/Jul/09 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/09

RCrockford - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Andy C

Danhan - 2nd - 20/Jun/09 with Nick

JEP - Lead - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

really nice climb
Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/08 with UBMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/08

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/08

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/08 with John

Pete Graham - Lead - 31/May/08 with Luke Porter

Great route, shame I didn't climb it very well though.
Neil Henson - 2nd - 21/May/08 with Graham Robinson

dprctr - Lead O/S - May/08 with Jens Verhaegh

Rested on gear on the lower crack. Top half of climb - good stuff!
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 26/Apr/08 with Rob Smith

jeffb - 2nd - 26/Apr/08 with andy c

@ndy - Lead dog - 26/Apr/08

rob wmc - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Jim

Daymo - 2nd - Apr/08 with Len Oakes

Hidden - Lead - Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

sadams - Lead - 09/Feb/08 with Eric Hildrew

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/07

Fun laybacky fight! Grr.
jameswbrae - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Alan Sage

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07

BallsofBritishSteel - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/07 with Charles

cem - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Rob Truckle

tonanf - 2nd - 02/Sep/07 with burt

tatz45 - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with Quentin O'Brien

scullymammoth - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Beth

trevor macalonan - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Tim

timharrison - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07 with Trevor Macalonan

cragdan - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Sam

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/07 with sam read

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Tom

First you struggle up a vertical crack and when you think you are home and dry you then have to overcome two difficult maouevres that aren't simple hand jams or crimps.
RocknRoll - Lead dog - Jul/07 with Liz Kooper

jasonpm - 2nd RP - 09/Jun/07 with Dave, Dave.

khawk - Lead - Jun/07 with WH

Mark D - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Andrew Duggan

tom_1985 - Lead O/S - 01/May/07 with Charlie T

tlr - Lead - 29/Apr/07 with Richard

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/07

EAYL - 2nd - 30/Nov/06 with Peak Phil

Peakphil - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/06

direct "HVS" version - not noticeably harder tha nthe top though despite my dislike of offwidths. Slightly damp in places.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06 with Neil Furniss

K Wall - 2nd - 23/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/06

What a nightmare!!! 2 cruxes, including an overhanging layback got up with much gibbering, then ran out of the right gear.
Caralynh - Lead - 08/Aug/06 with Nick Smith

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/06 with Caralynr

rilem - 2nd - 29/Jul/06 with Ian W

Nicos - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/06 with keith leonard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/06

Hidden - TR - Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/05

Lawrence Eccles - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/05 with A. Crook

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/05

Got gear in a mess and fell off trying to sort it out!
Chesh - Lead - May/05 with Lawrence

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - Nov/04 with Gus Hudgins

donkster - Lead O/S - Nov/04 with trigg