Gwynedd > Carreg Wastad >
 
Lion* VS 4c

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[Lion, pitch 2., 3 kb]90m, 4 pitches. A classic Llanberis Pass VS and a good tick for any VS leader. Start as for Unicorn. 1) 4a, 15m. Unicorn Pitch 1. 2) 4c, 24m. Move right onto a black slab, continue diagonally right to an overlap. Keep going up and right to the large fissure of Overhanging Chimney (VS) and climb this past a chockstone until a swing right on the wall leads to a stance. 3) 26m. Climb the slab on the right, pass a short chimney, continue on to Crackstone Rib. 4) 4a, 18m. Step right from the stance and climb up to a tree, then follow a large flake. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Lion, pitch 2. © caradoc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 182 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Lead pitches 1+2 in one, nice traverse and quite gymnastic moves to pass the big jammed block. Definitely felt like 5a to me, probably not enhanced by considerable ropedrag. Don't really see how I could've avoided that though.
GermanAlex - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14

Led 2nd pitch, perfect black slab traverse and used some outrageous moves on the chimney. Hard moves but good protection. It was nice to see Dave from PYB there too!
Dawn_K_B - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Calum Harvey

Tarquin - AltLd - 31/Jul/14 with Carl Stubbs

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14

Hidden - 26/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/14

Lyndsay Superclimber - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Ryan

led 2nd pitch. hee, hee awkward pull into chimney!
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 29/Jun/14

ColinD - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Richard Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14

P2. OK route. The chockstone perplexed me before I saw the holds on the right.
jezb1 - AltLd - 28/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/14

Biggest sandbag route I've ever done, felt way more like HVS with plenty of 5a sections, though there was some great climbing at times. 2nd pitch was scary as hell going up the overhanging chimney with hardly any gear but somehow I led it. Worst "rest day" I've ever had!
jsmcfarland - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Oli Hawk

will moy - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/14

Yet another Wastad sandbag. Good middle pitch if a bit stiff at 4c.
highclimber - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/14

swmackey - AltLd - 13/Apr/14 with simon hills

rbharries - AltLd - 2014 with Greg Edwards

Hidden - 2014

With Mark Derby. Led all pitches. Slighty off route on P1 which was pretty bold. P2 was great. Traversing across the black slab is good with loads of positive holds, the chimney was good fun, if a little brutal!
Mike Nolan - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13

Very interesting route! The chimney section certainly got me grunting a bit......
Rob Royle - 2nd - 26/Aug/13 with Jules Lane, David Kay

David Kay - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Rob, Jules Lane

Led all but P1. Epic 2nd pitch. Coming round the corner after the delicate traverse was a little shocking, and after committing to it was really pleased to get up the chimney quite well. Last pitch up the top of Ribstone Crack was good too. Worth more than 1 star for sure.
Jules Lane - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Mynydd Dave K

rob.grafton - Lead - 25/Aug/13 with Jim

Jacob Forshaw - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/13

jshields - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with Dave Sargent

pitch 1 and 3/4
davewsargent - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with jon shields

Led second pitch. Did not complete the route. My belay plate came off my harness somehow on the second pitch. Clive was not happy to second the chimney with only a waist belay, so I lowered him to a ledge, abseiled down to him, and we both abseiled off. A bit of an epic.
TrevorCruse - AltLd dnf - 05/Jul/13 with Clive Dean

Andrew Lester - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Led pitch 2 and 4. Awesome second pitch. Almost at my bridging limit beneath the chockstone. Tough for the grade.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Simon Rankine

Led 1st
tiga271 - AltLd - 25/May/13 with Lee

Dave Lead.
tomjemmett - 2nd dog - 06/May/13 with Dave Wilkinson, Carol Umarova

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Apr/13

alpinismo.uk - AltLd - 20/Apr/13

Nick Biven - 2013

I lead pt 2 across the black slab, could not make move to "cross over" to enter the far chimney, Note it crosses over then goes up rather than trying to go straight up the chimney), I down climbed back across the traverse to the belay, Simon led through. Still difficult even as a second. Top pitches ok, as for Crack stone rib at Severe.
Simon Cahill - AltLd - 09/Aug/12 with Simon Brockers, Maggie Bass

Sweet route, with crag swag and midges! I led P1 and 3
Jillybean - AltLd - 09/Aug/12 with Ben

Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with JB

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/12

lcullum7 - AltLd dnf - 28/May/12 with Sarah Acheson

Desi Gillespie - 2nd - 25/May/12 with Chris Goldsmith

Abseiling and going through multi-pitch climbing. RCF
ryanb83 - TR - 24/Apr/12

Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th Pitches. Little pro on first pitch, but fairly straight forward climbing. Scary Move round the chockstone on P2! Last two pitches easy and fun.
thecurlyone - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Simon

roberts1234567890 - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/11 with Simon Van Dam

SimonvanDam - AltLd - 15/Nov/11 with Matt Roberts

Andy
sgl - AltLd - 14/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/11

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Joe

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/11

alexjz - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Romy Wild

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jul/11

kristinawe - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

Definitely charcter building! Much harder than 4c if shorter than 5ft10
fizzychewitt - AltLd - 30/Jun/11 with Jayne

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11 with terry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11

only did P1, got put off but how unprotected it was
pawelx - AltLd dnf - 01/May/11

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11 with John Sealey

jon22 - AltLd - 28/Apr/11 with The Bad Cough

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/11

Chris M - Lead - 16/Apr/11 with Tommy B

Johnywilks - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Mar/11

coombs - AltLd - 04/Mar/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

David Smith - 2011

duncanjohnstone - 2nd - 31/Jul/10

Ed Griffin - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Alaric

Quite fancied this since 2003. Excellent route, but bold. First pitch (15m) has 3 marginal wires. Traverse on pitch 2 is largely unprotected as well. Crux on pitch 2 tricky and requires thought.
Alaric - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Ed

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/10

malc - AltLd rpt - 24/Apr/10 with Martin Hewes, Paul S

Hidden - Lead - 18/Apr/10

Led 2nd crux pitch. Forgot to protect Dale across traverse after chimney - naughty!
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Chris Dale

andeeeee - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Nick Read

mick lead the crux pitch, he decided not to put any gear in after the crux then quite a big traverse, good job i was quite convident i was in for a big swing, i told him off. ha ha
Dale - AltLd O/S - Apr/10 with mick

Hidden - 2010

DuckingFesperate - Lead - 2010

dkd - Lead O/S - 2010 with Al

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/09

The chockstone is all but impassable when wet.
Jon Dittman - AltLd dnf - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jul/08

Siderunner - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/08 with Kirsten

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

Gman - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/07

Carly - AltLd O/S - 26/May/07 with sophie

sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - 26/May/07 with Carlene Hill

MikeLeeds - AltLd - 06/Apr/07 with John Forrester

Lev - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Emma Ross

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/07

Lead pitch 2, it's a corker.
clive-greenwood - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06

Scary no gear
urbanmonkey - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/06 with Cath Bilson

AC 2nd
AngelaC - AltLd - 28/Apr/06 with Dieter Cole

mike kann - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Frank Medina

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

akhughes - 2006

Just had to take someone else on this climb the next day,fantastic route.
ritchierich - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/05 with Robbie Alexander

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/05 with Bob Dickson

Lots of safe storage for wires and gear in the bay on the second pitch
mooseloose - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/05 with Robo & Jana

Stone Muppet - 2005

George Ormerod - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/04 with Roger

dicky79 - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Michelle

Darragh - Jun/04 with Colm & Sonja

Hidden - AltLd - 13/May/04

clams - Lead O/S - 2004 with AD

joe c ook - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with R.Bates

The Pylon King - Solo O/S - Jul/03

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Jun/03

Soloed first pitch. Finished up Crackstone Rib
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - May/03 with Ian Fones

Hidden - AltLd - May/03

keith leonard - 2002

Hidden - 2002

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Jun/01 with Chris Pearson

clams - 2nd dog - 2000 with UMC

Scotsken - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/99

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/99 with Mark Lee

five - AltLd O/S - Aug/99 with TW

Emma came off at the overhanging chimnney on the 2nd pitch.
Paul-Michael - Lead dnf - 20/Sep/98 with Emma Day

Spent over an hour waiting for route, then ages waiting at top of first pitch - then started raining so we abseiled off
rachm2004 - 2nd - 01/May/98 with Ian L

Lead 1st pitch, Another rope climbed through on 2nd pitch ignoring protests & their ropes pulled me off the overhanging chimney.
Paul-Michael - AltLd dnf - 14/Feb/98 with Paul Nurse

zero six - Lead O/S - 1998

BenTiffin - AltLd - 30/Apr/97 with Matt Clegg

1st VS climbed - character building stuff on P1 & P2
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - Mar/97 with Darren Lambert

Hidden - Solo - 20/Sep/96

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/96 with Iain Boardman

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/96 with Louise Pellett

With Danuska Rycerz.
iskra2000 - 2nd - 06/Jun/96 with Duncan Hornby

Hidden - Lead - 14/Oct/95

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/95

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

jim_randell - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/94 with SL2

babymoac - AltLd - 17/Jul/94 with cash

colin milton - AltLd - 18/Jun/94 with eric milton

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/94 with mik

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Apr/94

2nd attempt after beta from Nick's dad! Jam to start the traverse.
Pete_Frost - AltLd rpt - 1994 with Nick Davies

malc - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/93

WB - 1992

KingM - Solo - 07/Sep/91

sdht - 1991

Dave Rumney - Solo - 1991

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 1990

led 1st,3rd and 4th pitches
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 07/May/89 with pete roberts

Budge - AltLd O/S - Jun/88 with Richard Teed

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/88

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/88

Backinthegame - AltLd - Aug/86 with Gary Hughes

Ian Clare - 1984

Melok - 1984

jasper11 - 1983

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 18/Apr/79 with Brian Carson

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 15/Sep/78 with Jonathan Lagoe

mikej - Lead - 09/Sep/77 with Tony Waite

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1977 with Billy Jones

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 08/Nov/75 with John Broadwell

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/75

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 1975 with Pete Leury

granitbahn - AltLd - 1974

Hidden - 1974

Tom V - 1972

ill_bill - 2nd - Jun/70 with Martin Bown

tapley - AltLd - 06/Aug/69 with Dave Hearnshaw

greenbuoy - 2nd - Aug/69 with Terry Taylor

North Wales has now been opened after the Foot and Mouth epidemic.
mikej - AltLd dnf - 25/Feb/68 with Pete Kokolaar, Geoff Williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ms26g10, Louvet, Hidden, BradleyWhite, Jon Pilling, Hidden, hedgehog77, Gwyneth, jezb1, studly84

Voting
Total votes cast 91
hard HVS0 of 32
HVS2 of 32
easy HVS7 of 32
hard VS14 of 32
VS9 of 32
easy VS0 of 32
hard HS0 of 32
HS0 of 32
easy HS0 of 32
hard 5a0 of 31
5a6 of 31
easy 5a11 of 31
hard 4c11 of 31
4c3 of 31
easy 4c0 of 31
hard 4b0 of 31
4b0 of 31
easy 4b0 of 31
3 Stars2 of 28
2 Stars12 of 28
1 Star12 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....2 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 182 (2.7%)
Lead31 of 182 (17.0%)
Followed14 of 182 (7.7%)
Toproped1 of 182 (0.5%)
Alt Leads103 of 182 (56.6%)
Unknown28 of 182 (15.4%)

'Climbed'90 of 182 (49.5%)
clean O/S75 of 182 (41.2%)
clean rpt4 of 182 (2.2%)
dogged2 of 182 (1.1%)
dnf8 of 182 (4.4%)
Unknown3 of 182 (1.6%)