90m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route, and a good tick for any VS leader. Start as for Unicorn on the left-hand side of the crag.
1) 4b, 15m. Unicorn P1.
2) 4c, 24m. Move right onto a black slab, continue diagonally right to an overlap/break. Keep going up and right to the large fissure of Overhanging Chimney (VS) and climb this past a chockstone until a swing right on the wall leads to a stance.
3) 4a, 26m. Climb the slab on the right, pass a short chimney, and continue on to Crackstone Rib.
4) 4a, 18m. Step right from the stance and climb up to a tree, then follow a large flake. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 22/Jun AltLd O/S
Benjaminblanc 11/Jun Lead O/S

Solid VS but that move across the large fissure/gap is verging on 5A if you avoid feet on the big loose block which looks like it will go any time now. It looks like the block has been used to place gear in the past but there is still plenty of choice around the chimney.

Hidden 10/Jun AltLd
jezb1 30/May Lead

Makes it harder when your client doesn't seem to like giving slack...

Tim Sparrow 15/May -

Done after attempting Unicorn! Dangerous loose block at junction with Overlapping Wall.

with Piers Nesbitt
Blake 14/May AltLd O/S

**CAUTION Very dangerous loose block at foot level as you enter the chimney - this is literally about to come off, so please make sure nobody is beneath you. Decent route - solid HVS 5A though if we're honest; unprotected traverse over weird volcanic black rock and powerful exposed moves into the chimney.

Pete_Frost 14/May AltLd rpt
with Blake
Heather Osborne 18/Mar AltLd O/S

Climbed in 3 pitches, led pitches 2 and 3 - amazing route!

Hidden 18/Mar AltLd
dobby 200 14/Mar AltLd O/S

I climbed P2 and P3. Amazing route with loads of Columnar jointing

with Kendal
Allanfairfechan ??/2016 -
Hidden 28/Oct/15 AltLd
JessWilliams 19/Oct/15 AltLd
with Dad
DannyH001 14/Oct/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Pero 10/Sep/15 AltLd
Bryan M 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3. Pero lead 2 & 4. The bold move across Overhanging chimney on p2 is possibly 5a.

with Pero
Steveb27 06/Sep/15 AltLd

A proper Wastad VS - if you know what I mean...!

Michael Morrell 27/Aug/15 Lead
martin c 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Felt tough and dodgy on first pitch due to lack of protection.

with Dave Thomas
Mr Tickle 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dan2
DanDevey94 16/Jul/15 2nd dog

Lion was a good scare, there was loose rock under the chimney, and the overhang was unexpected. Took a fall on the crux.

Marcin78 ?/Jul/15 AltLd
with Tomek
Ron Rees Davies 29/Jun/15 2nd
with Matt
rushy11111918 29/Jun/15 Lead
with Ron Rees Davies
shaunhumphreys 19/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

In grim weather strung last 2 pitches together so we could get off it quicker

with rory, benkelsey
benkelsey 19/Jun/15 2nd O/S

got 'the fear'. very cold, one runner on my rope forgot how to climb, so cold.

with rory wadsworth, Shaun Humphreys
noemie5438 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Liam
Hidden 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
PatrickEnglish 04/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Andrew Lester 21/May/15 AltLd
jalqazzaz 13/May/15 Lead dnf

After getting past the chock stone we had to bail to get to work on time :(. Thats a hard pitch for a VS, could have possibly been the damp but still!

static266 13/May/15 2nd dnf
Lucylou19 23/Apr/15 AltLd dnf

felt ill so bailed after first pitch

with Jeannie Sherwood
Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 05/Apr/15 2nd dnf

Andy lead. Had to be lowered after second (crux) pitch due to foot trouble.

with William Hardy, Andy Worster
Andy Worster 03/Apr/15 Lead
Si ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Pero 22/Sep/14 AltLd
GermanAlex 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1+2 in one, nice traverse and quite gymnastic moves to pass the big jammed block. Definitely felt like 5a to me, probably not enhanced by considerable ropedrag. Don't really see how I could've avoided that though.

Hidden 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Dawn_K_B 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, perfect black slab traverse and used some outrageous moves on the chimney. Hard moves but good protection. It was nice to see Dave from PYB there too!

Tarquin 31/Jul/14 AltLd
carl_123 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 -
Jenny Hall 26/Jul/14 2nd dog

Tough move needed assistance.

with tom wood, Louis
Louis Hume 26/Jul/14 Lead

Chimney too some working out but goes nice once you got it cracked. Assisted hoist for one of the seconds, well done team.

Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd
Lyndsay Superclimber 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Ryan
Helen Gibson 29/Jun/14 AltLd

led 2nd pitch. hee, hee awkward pull into chimney!

ColinD 21/Jun/14 AltLd
with Richard Hammond
Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ruairidhwad ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Shaun Humphreys, Ben Kelsey
jezb1 28/Apr/14 AltLd

P2. OK route. The chockstone perplexed me before I saw the holds on the right.

Hidden 28/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
jsmcfarland 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Biggest sandbag route I've ever done, felt way more like HVS with plenty of 5a sections, though there was some great climbing at times. 2nd pitch was scary as hell going up the overhanging chimney with hardly any gear but somehow I led it. Worst "rest day" I've ever had!

will moy 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
highclimber 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Yet another Wastad sandbag. Good middle pitch if a bit stiff at 4c.

swmackey 13/Apr/14 AltLd
rbharries ??/2014 AltLd
with Greg Edwards
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Rob Royle 26/Aug/13 2nd

Very interesting route! The chimney section certainly got me grunting a bit......

with Jules Lane, David Kay
David Kay 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob, Jules Lane
Jules Lane 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led all but P1. Epic 2nd pitch. Coming round the corner after the delicate traverse was a little shocking, and after committing to it was really pleased to get up the chimney quite well. Last pitch up the top of Ribstone Crack was good too. Worth more than 1 star for sure.

with Mynydd Dave K
rob.grafton 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Jim
Jacob Forshaw 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jshields 10/Aug/13 AltLd
davewsargent 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and 3/4

TrevorCruse 05/Jul/13 AltLd dnf

Led second pitch. Did not complete the route. My belay plate came off my harness somehow on the second pitch. Clive was not happy to second the chimney with only a waist belay, so I lowered him to a ledge, abseiled down to him, and we both abseiled off. A bit of an epic.

with Clive Dean
Andrew Lester 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Big Lee 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and 4. Awesome second pitch. Almost at my bridging limit beneath the chockstone. Tough for the grade.

tiga271 25/May/13 AltLd

Led 1st

with Lee
tomjemmett 06/May/13 2nd dog

Dave Lead.

with Dave Wilkinson, Carol Umarova
brockers 20/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Repeat ascent. Still a nice route :)

alpinismo.uk 20/Apr/13 AltLd
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Simon Cahill 09/Aug/12 AltLd

I lead pt 2 across the black slab, could not make move to "cross over" to enter the far chimney, Note it crosses over then goes up rather than trying to go straight up the chimney), I down climbed back across the traverse to the belay, Simon led through. Still difficult even as a second. Top pitches ok, as for Crack stone rib at Severe.

with Simon Brockers, Maggie Bass
Jillybean 09/Aug/12 AltLd

Sweet route, with crag swag and midges! I led P1 and 3

with Ben
Bennykr 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with JB
brockers ?/Aug/12 AltLd

led main pitch. Nice.

Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
lcullum7 28/May/12 AltLd dnf
Desi Gillespie 25/May/12 2nd
with Chris Goldsmith
ryanb83 24/Apr/12 TR

Abseiling and going through multi-pitch climbing. RCF

thecurlyone 29/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th Pitches. Little pro on first pitch, but fairly straight forward climbing. Scary Move round the chockstone on P2! Last two pitches easy and fun.

with Simon
roberts1234567890 15/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
simonvand 15/Nov/11 AltLd
sgl 14/Nov/11 AltLd

Andy

Hidden 01/Sep/11 AltLd
Lawrie Brand 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead
alexjz 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Romy Wild
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Lotte Stuer 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Kristina, Iona
kristinawe 02/Jul/11 2nd
fizzychewitt 30/Jun/11 AltLd

Definitely charcter building! Much harder than 4c if shorter than 5ft10

with Jayne
dan ely 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with terry
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
carlh 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

A very bold route for the grade and tough overhanging chimney moves in baking hot conditions! Took a while on the crux pitch as was fried after second day in the sun! Ben strayed onto Crackstone Rib on his pitch after crux.

pawelx 01/May/11 AltLd dnf

only did P1, got put off but how unprotected it was

The Bad Cough 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
jon22 28/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Chris M 16/Apr/11 Lead
with Tommy B
Johnywilks 22/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Mar/11 AltLd
coombs 04/Mar/11 AltLd
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
spalice ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with gwen lancashire
duncanjohnstone 31/Jul/10 2nd
Ed Griffin 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Alaric
Alaric 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Quite fancied this since 2003. Excellent route, but bold. First pitch (15m) has 3 marginal wires. Traverse on pitch 2 is largely unprotected as well. Crux on pitch 2 tricky and requires thought.

with Ed
Hidden 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
malc 24/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
with Martin Hewes, Paul S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead
mick1jones 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd crux pitch. Forgot to protect Dale across traverse after chimney - naughty!

with Chris Dale
andeeeee 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Nick Read
Dale ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

mick lead the crux pitch, he decided not to put any gear in after the crux then quite a big traverse, good job i was quite convident i was in for a big swing, i told him off. ha ha

with mick
Hidden ??/2010 -
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
dkd ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Jon Dittman 15/Mar/09 AltLd dnf

The chockstone is all but impassable when wet.

Hidden ?/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Gman ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
dan gibson 04/Jun/07 Solo O/S
Carly 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
with sophie
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
MikeLeeds 06/Apr/07 AltLd
with John Forrester
Lev 06/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
clive-greenwood 15/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, it's a corker.

Hidden 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
urbanmonkey 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf

Scary no gear

with Cath Bilson
AngelaC 28/Apr/06 AltLd

AC 2nd

beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Frank Medina
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
akhughes ??/2006 -
ritchierich 10/Aug/05 Lead rpt

Just had to take someone else on this climb the next day,fantastic route.

with Robbie Alexander
ritchierich 09/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Bob Dickson
mooseloose 11/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Lots of safe storage for wires and gear in the bay on the second pitch

with Robo & Jana
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
George Ormerod 10/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Roger
dicky79 ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Michelle
Darragh ?/Jun/04 -
with Colm & Sonja
Hidden 13/May/04 AltLd
clams ??/2004 Lead O/S
with AD
joe c ook ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with R.Bates
Urgles ?/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Mark Riley ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/May/03 Lead O/S

Soloed first pitch. Finished up Crackstone Rib

with Ian Fones
Hidden ?/May/03 AltLd
keith leonard ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
DerwentDiluted ?/Jun/01 AltLd
clams ??/2000 2nd dog
with UMC
Scotsken ??/2000 -
Hidden 16/Oct/99 AltLd O/S
Derek Ryden 02/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with Mark Lee
five ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with TW
Paul-Michael 20/Sep/98 Lead dnf

Emma came off at the overhanging chimnney on the 2nd pitch.

with Emma Day
lost.arrow 03/May/98 Lead
with Gill Heartly
rachm2004 01/May/98 2nd

Spent over an hour waiting for route, then ages waiting at top of first pitch - then started raining so we abseiled off

with Ian L
Paul-Michael 14/Feb/98 AltLd dnf

Lead 1st pitch, Another rope climbed through on 2nd pitch ignoring protests & their ropes pulled me off the overhanging chimney.

with Paul Nurse
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 10/Sep/97 Lead O/S
BenTiffin 30/Apr/97 AltLd
with Matt Clegg
Different Steve ?/Mar/97 AltLd O/S

1st VS climbed - character building stuff on P1 & P2

with Darren Lambert
Hidden 20/Sep/96 Solo
Paul Boardman 24/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Chris Ellis 17/Aug/96 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
iskra2000 06/Jun/96 2nd

With Danuska Rycerz.

with Duncan Hornby
Hidden 14/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/95 Lead
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
jim_randell 23/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with SL2
babymoac 17/Jul/94 AltLd
with cash
colin milton 18/Jun/94 AltLd
with eric milton
ste_d 11/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden 16/Apr/94 AltLd
Pete_Frost ??/1994 AltLd rpt

2nd attempt after beta from Nick's dad! Jam to start the traverse.

with Nick Davies
malc 13/Mar/93 Lead O/S
WB ??/1992 -
Mick King 07/Sep/91 Solo
sdht ??/1991 -
Dave Rumney ??/1991 Solo
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
michael burrows 07/May/89 AltLd O/S

led 1st,3rd and 4th pitches

with pete roberts
Budge ?/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden ?/May/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/88 AltLd
Backinthegame ?/Aug/86 AltLd
with Gary Hughes
Rob Davies ??/1985 AltLd

Date?

with Roy Lindsay, Mike Papworth
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Bruce Kerr 18/Apr/79 Lead
with Brian Carson
Ken Taylor 15/Sep/78 AltLd
with Jonathan Lagoe
mikej 09/Sep/77 Lead
with Tony Waite
Ian Jones ??/1977 AltLd O/S
with Billy Jones
Bolt Phobia 08/Nov/75 Lead
with John Broadwell
Hidden ?/Aug/75 AltLd
Mark Kemball ??/1975 AltLd
with Pete Leury
kjacks ??/1975 Lead

Serious 2nd pitch not to be underestimated at the grade, would say more like low end HVS

with John Webster
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
Bob M ??/1974 -
with Jal Arustu
Martin Bennett 13/May/72 -
with Geoff Baker, JD
Tom V ??/1972 -
ill_bill ?/Jun/70 2nd
with Martin Bown
tapley 06/Aug/69 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
greenbuoy ?/Aug/69 2nd
with Terry Taylor
mikej 25/Feb/68 AltLd dnf

North Wales has now been opened after the Foot and Mouth epidemic.

with Pete Kokolaar, Geoff Williams
Hidden 18/Jun/67 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Pixie-Andy, rustyfishhook, Jack Manfredi, climbingrev, Hidden, SJPowderham1, Ellie Fuller, Hidden, sam@work, useful, ms26g10, Louvet, Hidden, BradleyWhite, Jon Pilling, Hidden, hedgehog77, Gwyneth, studly84
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 42
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set