A top-notch lead for 1918 and a great route.
1) 5a, 25m. Boulder into the groove in the centre of the face then follow the slab rightwards to access a narrow chimney-crack. Struggle up this to a ledge.
2) 4b, 10m. Continue up the surprisingly awkward crack. © Rockfax
Ivor Richards 1918
Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Matt Harmon||04/Oct||AltLd O/S||
Lucy, jon gill
Quite a hard move near start of first pitch and big cams would make the upper end of first pitch much safer!
Lucy Coulter, adam baker
|Tom Phillips||27/Sep||2nd O/S|
|George Killaspy||08/Aug||Lead O/S||
Led as one pitch on halves - great climbing made even better by the exposure of the slabs below.
Alex, Dylan Brown
I Started first pitch but set belay under the chimney. Ben got the rest done.
Started the second pitch below the chimney (Paul led the first), and needed a bit of 'assistance' to battle through it!! Enjoyable nonetheless, and the final crack is a nice bit of climbing.
|Pete Rigby||27/Jun||AltLd O/S||
Led both pitches
Horrible deep crack that required swimming.
Led as 1 pitch (following Tennis Shoe). Traditional chimney struggle helped keep temperature up!
|Tom McCabe||09/Jun||Lead O/S||
Got to the chimney/offwidth before remembering that I was wearing the 'sac. Hung it below me on a sling... Good fun, definitely 'traditional'.
|Tom Keaveny||18/Apr||Lead O/S|
Climbed in 2 pitches. I led pitch 1. Very polished, but good fun.
Done in two pitches. Started with the usual start, but fell of and swung quite a long way to the right, so switched to the Variation, which was less polished and wet. Day 4 of PYB "Moving Out" course.
Good fun, lovely climbing with a good old school bit of thrutching thrown in. Lead both pitches. Standard VS.
|Dan Hostford||25/Oct/14||Solo O/S|
|K Dawg||29/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
|David Stevens||05/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
|Ian Stirrups||09/Aug/14||AltLd O/S||
Lead first pitch. Chimney is an off width with all that entails.
Led first pitch
Continued up from Hope. Steve led the first pitch which was much tougher than the second. Skipped the chimney which was probably a good thing as I'm not sure the rucksack would have fitted in it!
|Jen Mason||22/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
Led original start, followed by wall finish to the belay ledge. The chimney looked a bit thrutchy and traditional for my liking!
|K Mckay||21/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
Led P1. Awkward chimney!
Dan Slome, Ed Poulter
Rhys led P1 (awesome move out of the chimney) and I led P2 (much easier). Great job Rhys!!
Started on Piton Route, crossed over via a nice finger traverse onto Original Route and finished off on Rampart Corner. Very dodgy route finding from Simon..
|Rob Evans||?/May/14||Lead O/S||
Great climb, think outside the chimney
Wendy did pitch one, but skirted the end of the chimney, i went up it properly then did pitch 2
side steeped the top of p1 onto the variation
Did all in one pitch. Nice balanced climbing for the first section, then some good old fashioned thrutch/chimney-ing at the top. Hannah was less than pleased by the chimney after the weeks climbing. Probably the best pitch of climbing the whole trip.
|Samuel Wainwright||11/Oct/13||AltLd O/S||
|Andre Clarke||29/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Very polish up the big crack making it a bit of a grunt festival. Good if you like that sort of thing
|Gareth T||18/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Jane Woulds, Amber
|Amber Chaloner||18/Aug/13||2nd O/S||
Jane Woulds, Gareth Thomas
Led the second pitch which was pretty easy. First pitch has a very hard start, the chimney bit wasn't as bad as it sounded, and the ramp was just great.
Jonathan French, Vanessa
Did the original start variation finish.
Fell off first pitch trying to get into the groove. Not good.
Brilliant! Pure Classical fun. The entry into the groove is trickier than it first appears and then struggle up the polish to some good 'ol fashion armbars. Determination is what you need for this bad boy
Too much polish to be that fun.
Running the slabs day!
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||?/Jun/13||AltLd|
1918? Blimey. Arrived at the crack and realised I needed the big cam from my pack, that was interesting. Finished up with a leftward traverse to the wall and a mantel. Dashed up the second pitch and off as I seemed to be getting ill, consequently abandoned a Blue BD Stopper, would be good to hear when someone gets it out.
lead both pitches, pure class and not a giveaway at VS. big cam for the offwidth would've been nice, but can be replaced with commitment
My 1st VS - well chuffed! I'm 11 yrs old - made me think about life, why we are here & what created the amazing motivations to climb these places.
Struggled on the top of the nose just after the overhang. Should of been bolder & pushed straight up. Lovely 40m solo to final belay point.
|Tom Seccombe||18/Feb/13||AltLd O/S|
|tim exley||18/Feb/13||AltLd O/S|
Continued up from the slabs minus gf...thrutchy chimney took an interesting leg jamming approach
In wet with boots as a three on double ropes, joe lead
Julian King, Joe Heasman
Cold and wet
As part of a big mountain day link up
|Alex Thompson||15/Sep/12||AltLd rpt||
Forgot I had done this before! Haydn backed off the chimney so took over lead.
James Williamson, Haydn Martin
Backed off the final chimney! Alex finished. Ridiculously hard, or possibly just old school.
James W, Alex Thompson
I fell on the polished 'chimney' trying to get a stuck cam (cragswag)
Quality climb, stiff for the grade.
Tough old school climbing. With 2 students.
awakward chimney had to shimmey myself up through it with an easy finish
|Charley Carpenter||?/Sep/12||AltLd O/S|
|Pete Randall||11/Aug/12||AltLd dog||
|Katherine Ross||11/Aug/12||2nd β||
Used the in-situ aid tat on the first move for speed and the risk of decking from rope-stretch. I wasn't sure I'd get up the chimney but did manage it and the hand traverse. Really fun!
|Steve J T||27/Jul/12||Lead|
|David Kay||11/Jul/12||AltLd O/S|
Chimney was tough! At the top of the chimney moved out on to the left face.
|Rich God 3||28/May/12||AltLd||
|Big Lee||27/May/12||AltLd O/S||
Stayed in the wide crack and off-width'ed it. Lead the easy second pitch. A good route but not a three star classic.
Led P1. Fell off in the offwidth. Held by 2 well placed cams. Removed bag and finished pitch using a couple if holds on the left.
Chimney was a bit of a thrutch - glad my second had the backpack.
|Gerallt Owain||01/Apr/12||Lead O/S||
Felt comfortable at this grade on second... as in previous time at Idwal Slabs I didn't didnt have a very heavy rucksack on.
|james chesmer||??/2012||Lead O/S|
Led P1, Luke P2. Couldn't do the top of the chimney had to move left and around :(
|Nick Rundall||01/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
Nick Pass, Jon Taylor
|Ewan Russell||29/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
Partner couldn't do chimney on lead so went up ramp on left slab below chimney entrance instead. I lead pitch 2.
|Simon Cahill||14/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
Lead first pitch
Had to pop out of the top of the chimney left. Would be better climbing with out a ruck sac!
Led second pitch
|Lawrie Brand||30/Jun/11||AltLd O/S||
Led P1 + P2, a good value route.
really cool route, though felt alot harder having to use my 'claw'
Led P2 (2 pitches).
|Tom Livingstone||25/May/11||AltLd rpt|
brilliant fun - except the chimney of course.
|chris smith||25/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
In a 1er. polished as ken at the start!
|Dan Lane||18/Apr/11||2nd dog||
first move was really hard, ended up pulling on the tat as i didn't trust my foot to stick on the mega polished smear.
bit cheeky putting alt leads as i had the second easir pitch
Lead first pitch. Great start, but came a cropper on the chimney where it turned out carrying a bag made the moves a whole lot more difficult. Took a fall from the top of the chimney and landed at the bottom unhurt. Clipped bag to gear and reattempted successfully. Second pitch still challenging but more straightforward. Leave your bag at the bottom!
|Will Hunt||02/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
fell on the first move! was a horrendous wet day though, so i'll allow it..
Led the second.
Original line, almost impossible with my sac on and hauling G's abandoned sac from the harness.
George Porter, Laim Jay
|Clay C||11/Jun/10||Lead dnf||
Couldnt manage the last few moves out of the chimney, so lowered off a hex that was already in place. Rope got stuck when pulling through, so did Lazarus and then lowered from the top and climbed the route on top rope removing gear. Moves still felt pretty tricky at the top of the chimney!
|Peter Holder||03/Jun/10||AltLd O/S|
|Tom Hopkinson||28/May/10||2nd dog||
Nice. Started to the right, slightly steeper but good fun. Didn't fancy getting stuck into the crack/chimney higher up so opted to pull onto the arete/slab to the left.
The crack at the top of P1 was a bit of a fight
the start is really hard on the polished holds, bold onto the arete aswell
Only climbed the first pitch, ab'd off.
|dan ely||06/May/10||Lead O/S||
|Aaron Lines||?/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
Led first pitch.
I led 2nd pitch.
rcp top of faith easy 5a move
billy from atcp
|jamie ward||29/May/09||AltLd O/S||
|Graeme Hammond||24/May/09||Lead O/S||
hardest i've lead with a big rucksack on? (both pitches)
|dan gibson||20/Apr/09||Solo O/S|
Led all pitches. Chimney well protected with a big cam. On second attempt of the chimney exited left onto wall.
Clare Pickup and Rowan Midwood
Andy C second.
in full flood never thought id climb a waterfall
Led pitch 1. Knew the moves up chimney would be less than pretty, and was right. But loads of solid gear in the back. Staying out of the chimney on the left arete might prove better.
|Glyn Davidson||10/Jul/08||AltLd O/S||
Very wet and greasy.
|Alex Thompson||07/Jun/08||AltLd O/S||
Alec and Sarah
|lee richards||??/2008||Lead O/S||
|Jim Slater||27/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
Chimney section was really tough, hard slog.
|Irk the Purist||21/May/07||AltLd O/S||
Tough lead! Dave led pitch 1 but climbed the wall instead of the chimney. I followed up the chimney/crack/depths of hell with much panting and loss of skin and dignity.
|Stuart Johnston||20/May/07||Lead O/S|
|Joe Marsh||17/Sep/06||AltLd O/S||
VS on holy tree wall, start well right not left !! luckily excelent wire
Superb start, bit thin on the gear as you leave the ledge half way up the first pitch - there was a brand new friend stuck in the crack on the second pitch - failed to get it out!
The wall variation at 5a is great
Tim & Instructor
|beardy mike||??/2006||Lead O/S||
Tom, Jakob and Kate
|Adam Booth||27/Jul/05||AltLd O/S|
|bigie bob||?/Jul/05||Lead O/S|
|Different Steve||?/Jul/05||AltLd O/S||
Led P1 - tricky!
|Andy Clarke||29/Mar/03||AltLd O/S||
|jamie ward||03/Sep/02||AltLd O/S||
|paul m hadley||??/2002||Lead|
|Rob Oram||04/Aug/00||AltLd O/S||
I led the first pitch and reckon the route was overgraded at VS 5a.
|Ed Booth||??/2000||Lead O/S|
Paul C, Julie H
Lead 1st pitch.
|Ian Archer||09/Aug/97||AltLd O/S||
|Paul Boardman||??/1996||AltLd O/S||
GH pitch 1.
Dave Instructor, Martin
|chris sm||17/Jul/95||AltLd O/S||
Martin (from South America)
Quite easy if you bridge up the initial moves instead of trying it in the corner on very slippyholds...
|Jelly Mould Surfer||06/Aug/88||AltLd O/S||
Led pitch 1
date is a guess
On YHA Climbing course
The first pitch was the hardest thing I ever led in big hill walking boots. John led the Crescent Slab pitch.