UKC

Rockfax Description
A top-notch lead for 1918 and a great route.
1) 5a, 25m. Boulder into the groove in the centre of the face then follow the crescent slab rightwards to access a narrow chimney-crack. Struggle up this to a ledge.
2) 4b, 10m. Continue up the surprisingly awkward crack. © Rockfax

Ivor Richards, CF Holland,Dorothy Pilley 22/May/1918.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Snowdonia in Chains , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Extreme Rock! , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS , 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
jrobinson 29 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The chimney crack was indeed awkward, bridge the outside by pressing feet and bum/back onto opposing walls. Dead easy beta.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The chimney crack was indeed awkward, bridge the outside by pressing feet and bum/back onto opposing walls. Dead easy beta.
PaulJepson 19 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If you only put gear on one rope in the chimney, you can drop a loop of the other down to your second once they're comfortably wedged and haul their pack up to the belay. Would recommend, as the moves are fairly 'full-body'.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you only put gear on one rope in the chimney, you can drop a loop of the other down to your second once they're comfortably wedged and haul their pack up to the belay. Would recommend, as the moves are fairly 'full-body'.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
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Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flake Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet))

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