Rockfax Description
A superbly-exposed finale makes this a tremendous outing, although it is high in the grade.
1) 4c, 27m. Start at a small rib flanked on both sides by grooves. Climb the groove on the right of the rib, then surmount the rib itself. From its top, move right onto a slanting rake. Follow this to belay in the holly trees.
2) 4c, 9m. Follow the short groove on the left side of the ledge, passing a detached flake to gain a large ledge and tree belay over to the left.
3) 5b, 27m. The pitch! A superbly-sustained groove above the belay leads to a step right. Pass a loose block with care to reach the large roof above. A wild monkey-swing through the roof gains a ledge on the left. Step back up and right towards the steep arete to small ledges and interesting belays.
4) 5a, 18m. Trend rightwards up the steep face with sparse protection. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) Start to the right of the rib and work your way on top, step right onto flake and down slightly to make a move back up and right. Stay below the gorse on fairly crappy holds working your way right. head up through the holly bush to belay.

2)Trend left to the ledge with the ash tree mega flake to belay off.

3)The fun begins.... climb the groove behind the tree (the tree helps to get started) good gear placements. Step left slightly good foot holds then back into the groove on crappy holds, work your way up to a loose block under the roof and a peg (good runner underneath it). there are a few hand holds under the roof and a foot hold about 50cm below the peg, boldly swing out left and grab hold of the ledge which is at the same height as the edge of the roof, really smooth crap hold, work your way onto the ledge, good gear on right wall. Climb the arete to a poor peg belay.

4)Climb the fluted wall above trending right, sparse gear and bold to belay at the top.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Pete_Frost 10/Oct AltLd dog

Led P1,2 & 4. Fell off carrying the bag around the roof. Feet and hands were frozen.

Phil Creed, Jeannie Sherwood
Pete_Frost 10/Oct AltLd dog

Led P1,2 & 4. Fell off carrying the bag around the roof. Feet and hands were frozen.

Phil Creed, Jeannie Sherwood
Hidden 10/Oct AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug AltLd
Hidden 19/Jun AltLd O/S
Rory Shaw 15/Jun Lead O/S

Tough - felt like E2 to me. Combined last 2 pitches

fuzzysheep01 07/Jun Lead O/S

This route has everything - battling through bushes, loose holds, lichenous slabs and an brilliant, sustained (and hard!) top half. Crux move is wild but pretty well protected. Brilliant and high in the grade.

Hidden 07/Jun 2nd dog
Seymore Butt 16/Apr -
Sardien 07/Apr Lead O/S

My guidebook said it was HVS. Convincing myself it was 'only hvs' certainly helped in getting me to commit to the blind move. Awesome top half of the climb, totally worth the gorse, holly and lichen on the first half

Hidden ??/2015 -
chrismadar 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 1 and 4th pitch. 3rd pitch crux was very bold but alright once you had committed!

OliverRoss 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, P3. So scary! Couldn't figure out roof move until really pumped. Used all 4 micro rocks on 3rd pitch.

Chris Madar
Laurence Everitt 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Ashwell
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
wi11 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P1&2 as one. 2nd top pitches with head torch on. Pretty stiff for the grade!

rashwell ?/Sep/14 2nd
dan gibson 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Gavin Singleton
Motown 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 2. These pitches were pretty scrappy. Great moves on 3 and 4. Makes sense to string them together.

Mr Tickle 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P3 and 4. A great climb would have been better if the first 2 pitches were not as scrappy. Great move around the roof, just enough for your feet. P4 fairly easy climbing although not much gear.

mattfarr 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Bit off route at times. Enjoyable.

ColinD 21/Jun/14 AltLd

P1 & 3, great!

Richard Hammond
Ally Baba 19/Jun/14 AltLd
Gav Swinton
Lenny 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
apw 14/Jun/14 AltLd

Lead the 5b pitch

Chris Hindley
Martin Haworth 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Brannock 13/Jun/14 AltLd

Evening climb, bit vegetated and scrappy, some nice moves though, led first two pitches in one

BTphonehome 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

P1,2&4. Off piste on P1 lead to sketchy down climb to rejoin route. Superb top pitches - wild moves blindly round the roof on P3 and a bold P4 which were all the more atmospheric with the wind doing its best to throw us off!

tmawer 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 3. Felt quite tough, and added to by strong wind.

Hidden 04/May/14 Lead dog
jezb1 03/May/14 AltLd

Ld P2 & P4. P3 is great but cheeky for the grade, the groove is sustained and thought provoking and the roof is a bit bold and if you're expecting a thank god jug around the corner, think again! P4 was ok with just enough gear. Some pretty suspect rock throughout the route. E2 5b maybe?

will moy 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 2nd
Harry McG, neils EW
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Theeni 05/Oct/13 AltLd dnf

John started up the first pitch and put a belay in at a wet traverse. I led through and through the bushes to an awful traverse back before releasing Will on the crux pitch. After a few tries off the peg he finally came down and we retreated with our tails between our legs.

John McEvoy
Tubs 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

A good lead by Tim on a route that's right at the top of the grade.

Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd
adam 24 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
soph 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Lee Cooper
Richard Horn 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
La Mont 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 3 and 4. a lot of rope drag to link both.

Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
gjd 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2 and 3. What a wild move under the roof!

Sam Burns
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd rpt
shed_hed 01/Mar/13 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 01/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
BeckyBrown1989 08/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/12 2nd
willoates 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Hard for E1, More like E2 5c.

Dave Evans
Ollie B 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Binder 25/Mar/12 AltLd dog

I led p2. Attempted p1 but we went the much harder and dirtier way to the right of the main route so failed. Fell off the crux on p3 - bit of a lack of footholds!

Max A
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 30/Sep/11 AltLd dog
Luke Brooks 27/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Coel Hellier 25/Jul/11 AltLd
Ben Tibbetts
Lawrie Brand 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Matt Etheridge, Neil Phillips
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
vertically_challenged 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead p3 & p4. the step left under the overhang was a bit scary cos ihad got a bit lazy with putting gear in. but the rest of the climb was nice.

owain86 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3. Thought it was soft, one move stepping left at overhang which is a little off balance, 5b

Alex.M-M. 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 06/Jun/11 AltLd rpt


Hidden 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tim newton 04/May/11 AltLd O/S
andy stotesbury
Rich Kirby 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Lincoln 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Rick Kirby
Adam Armitage 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing stuff! Ferocious move under the roof on pitch 3 :-) gripping!

uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Andrew Barker 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

A great route. Si led the crux pitch which was pretty tough. My job was to link the first two pitches into one - I didn't fancy the inevitable rope drag involved with zig-zagging through a bush so decided to bulldoze a line directly to the second belay from where the first pitch moves right. It was a bit snappy and very bold but pretty entertaining - I reckon around E2/3 5a/b.

Speeddemonsi 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S


beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
my uncle carl
Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
wilchivs 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led the crux pitch - belayed at the tree ledge, not sure if this was right or not but it worked out fine!

Sarah Joyce
Trisha Murphy 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 15/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

p1, p3. rux pitch isnt easy, too hard, awkward sections...awesome belay! bold easy pitch

Bennykr 15/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

pretty sweeet, a little dirty

greenclimb 01/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
dan ely 24/May/10 AltLd O/S

hard to get around roof luckly i was seconding. Really exposed lead p1 and 3

Simon Holden (LCandCC) 16/May/10 AltLd dnf

Was using an old guide, which gave the route HVS. And didn't even grade the first pitch. Simon lead first and ran the first 2 pitches together. I lead the second, but from the discription went up from the holly tree and soon found myself in loose and hard climbing. Got to a block and lowered off. The climbing was not pleasant anyway.

Welsh Simon, Swifty
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd
HeatherF 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
fennerz 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

last pitch was fantastic!

marlow 05/Mar/10 -

don't go left on the third pitch too soon! Very scary climbing.... but a great pitch and a really amazing finish!!!

mr mills ??/2010 -
paul simkiss
danny33 ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 24/Sep/09 AltLd
Different Steve 13/Jun/09 Lead dog

Scary step left at the peg....

Hidden 11/May/09 2nd rpt
SMc ?/May/09 Lead O/S

Not easy - sustained - hard going under and around roof - can do 3rd and 4th together- top pitch a bit loose - overall really good

colina 26/Apr/09 -

seconded this route with phil //managed to slip off under the roof traverse,do it next time though i reckon

mike lawrence? 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Top pitch fantastic

Simon Kemper
Rob Pitt 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Helen Pitt
Carly 21/Mar/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 19/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
barni 24/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
OffshoreAndy 30/Aug/07 AltLd

Lead P2,P4

UKC Rob Greenwood
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Dan 85 06/Jun/07 Lead dog

Top section whilst being easy consists of a number of loose flakes etc.

Hidden 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Cragrat Rich 16/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. The crux moves under the roof are strenuous and baffling. Top pitch is excellent and serious

Hidden 16/Oct/06 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
gonggashan 30/Jul/04 AltLd
jparry75 ?/Jun/04 Lead
Hidden 17/Jul/00 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/00 Lead O/S
WB ??/2000 -

Felt well sketchy

nige pacer ?/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
Paul Boardman ??/1996 -
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 30/May/94 AltLd O/S

Poor second pitch, but 3rd and fourth are absolute solid gold. Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Only bank holiday in Wales I ever remember being sunny for three days in a row!

Steve Jones
Budge ?/May/94 AltLd O/S
Richard Teed
Hidden 20/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/89 AltLd

Al didn't follow on the top pitch as he was running late, so we abbed back down, followed by a mad drive back to Manchester, ratty words from his mrs as they were running late for a night at the Opera. When they eventually made it they were an hour early as Al had messed up the times! Seem to recall that it was HVS.

Alan Payne
michael burrows 07/May/89 AltLd O/S

led 3rd and 5th pitch

pete roberts
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden 10/Aug/87 AltLd
Backinthegame ?/Aug/86 AltLd

Gary led hard pitch - I led run-out pitch at the top

Gary Hughes
Hidden 06/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
mark-abz ?/Jul/85 Lead
Graham W
John Marsland 21/Apr/84 Lead
Dave Mould
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
AlanLittle ?/Jul/83 AltLd
John Walters
Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
tapley 04/Jul/81 AltLd
Chris Seymour
mikej 22/Jun/81 AltLd
The Puerile Ticker
Hidden 24/Mar/81 AltLd
charlesmfrench 24/Jan/81 AltLd dnf

L,L. Then rain?

Ian Milne
RichardMc 29/Jun/80 AltLd
Dave Langmead
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead O/S

A bit desperate and unpleasant.

Mark Holt?
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Mark Kemball 08/Sep/78 Lead
Richard Lang
steve L 15/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
Bolt Phobia 10/Jun/76 AltLd
Mike Owen 17/Apr/76 -
John Roberts
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/76 AltLd O/S

Nobody told us about the jug, and neither leader nor second noticed it. Did seem hard for an HVS!

Martin Smith
mikej 10/Sep/75 AltLd dnf

Short of time and bottle.

Mike Byles
Nigel Bond 27/Jul/75 Lead
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set