Rockfax Description
A superbly-exposed finale makes this a tremendous outing, although it is high in the grade.
1) 4c, 27m. Start at a small rib flanked on both sides by grooves. Climb the groove on the right of the rib, then surmount the rib itself. From its top, move right onto a slanting rake. Follow this to belay in the holly trees.
2) 4c, 9m. Follow the short groove on the left side of the ledge, passing a detached flake to gain a large ledge and tree belay over to the left.
3) 5b, 27m. The pitch! A superbly-sustained groove above the belay leads to a step right. Pass a loose block with care to reach the large roof above. A wild monkey-swing through the roof gains a ledge on the left. Step back up and right towards the steep arete to small ledges and interesting belays.
4) 5a, 18m. Trend rightwards up the steep face with sparse protection. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) Start to the right of the rib and work your way on top, step right onto flake and down slightly to make a move back up and right. Stay below the gorse on fairly crappy holds working your way right. head up through the holly bush to belay.

2)Trend left to the ledge with the ash tree mega flake to belay off.

3)The fun begins.... climb the groove behind the tree (the tree helps to get started) good gear placements. Step left slightly good foot holds then back into the groove on crappy holds, work your way up to a loose block under the roof and a peg (good runner underneath it). there are a few hand holds under the roof and a foot hold about 50cm below the peg, boldly swing out left and grab hold of the ledge which is at the same height as the edge of the roof, really smooth crap hold, work your way onto the ledge, good gear on right wall. Climb the arete to a poor peg belay.

4)Climb the fluted wall above trending right, sparse gear and bold to belay at the top.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!.

Cerris90 14/Oct 2nd O/S

1st 2 pitches.

with Ronnie
Pete_Frost 10/Oct AltLd dog

Led P1,2 & 4. Fell off carrying the bag around the roof. Feet and hands were frozen.

with Phil Creed, Jeannie Sherwood
Pete_Frost 10/Oct AltLd dog

Led P1,2 & 4. Fell off carrying the bag around the roof. Feet and hands were frozen.

with Phil Creed, Jeannie Sherwood
Hidden 10/Oct AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug AltLd
Hidden 19/Jun AltLd O/S
Rory Shaw 15/Jun Lead O/S

Tough - felt like E2 to me. Combined last 2 pitches

fuzzysheep01 07/Jun Lead O/S

This route has everything - battling through bushes, loose holds, lichenous slabs and an brilliant, sustained (and hard!) top half. Crux move is wild but pretty well protected. Brilliant and high in the grade.

Hidden 07/Jun 2nd dog
Seymore Butt 16/Apr -
Sardien 07/Apr Lead O/S

My guidebook said it was HVS. Convincing myself it was 'only hvs' certainly helped in getting me to commit to the blind move. Awesome top half of the climb, totally worth the gorse, holly and lichen on the first half

with Marija
Hidden ??/2015 -
chrismadar 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 1 and 4th pitch. 3rd pitch crux was very bold but alright once you had committed!

OliverRoss 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, P3. So scary! Couldn't figure out roof move until really pumped. Used all 4 micro rocks on 3rd pitch.

with Chris Madar
Laurence Everitt 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Rachel Ashwell
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
wi11 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P1&2 as one. 2nd top pitches with head torch on. Pretty stiff for the grade!

with John
rashwell ?/Sep/14 2nd
dan gibson 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Singleton
Motown 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 2. These pitches were pretty scrappy. Great moves on 3 and 4. Makes sense to string them together.

with Luke
Mr Tickle 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P3 and 4. A great climb would have been better if the first 2 pitches were not as scrappy. Great move around the roof, just enough for your feet. P4 fairly easy climbing although not much gear.

with Will
mattfarr 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Bit off route at times. Enjoyable.

with Simon
ColinD 21/Jun/14 AltLd

P1 & 3, great!

with Richard Hammond
Ally Baba 19/Jun/14 AltLd
with Gav Swinton
Lenny 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Vun
Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Pete Wimbush 14/Jun/14 AltLd

Lead the 5b pitch

with Chris Hindley
Martin Haworth 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Brannock 13/Jun/14 AltLd

Evening climb, bit vegetated and scrappy, some nice moves though, led first two pitches in one

BTphonehome 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

P1,2&4. Off piste on P1 lead to sketchy down climb to rejoin route. Superb top pitches - wild moves blindly round the roof on P3 and a bold P4 which were all the more atmospheric with the wind doing its best to throw us off!

with Tony
tmawer 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 3. Felt quite tough, and added to by strong wind.

with Bram
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead dog
jezb1 03/May/14 AltLd

Ld P2 & P4. P3 is great but cheeky for the grade, the groove is sustained and thought provoking and the roof is a bit bold and if you're expecting a thank god jug around the corner, think again! P4 was ok with just enough gear. Some pretty suspect rock throughout the route. E2 5b maybe?

will moy 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Jez
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 2nd
with Harry McG, neils EW
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Theeni 05/Oct/13 AltLd dnf

John started up the first pitch and put a belay in at a wet traverse. I led through and through the bushes to an awful traverse back before releasing Will on the crux pitch. After a few tries off the peg he finally came down and we retreated with our tails between our legs.

with John McEvoy
Tubs 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

A good lead by Tim on a route that's right at the top of the grade.

with Tim C
Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd
adam 24 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
soph 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Lee Cooper
Richard Horn 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
La Mont 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 3 and 4. a lot of rope drag to link both.

Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
gjd 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2 and 3. What a wild move under the roof!

with Sam Burns
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd rpt
shed_hed 01/Mar/13 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 01/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
BeckyBrown1989 08/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/12 2nd
willoates 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Hard for E1, More like E2 5c.

with Dave Evans
Ollie B 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with D.Campbell
Binder 25/Mar/12 AltLd dog

I led p2. Attempted p1 but we went the much harder and dirtier way to the right of the main route so failed. Fell off the crux on p3 - bit of a lack of footholds!

with Max A
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 30/Sep/11 AltLd dog
Luke Brooks 27/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Liam
Coel Hellier 25/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ben Tibbetts
Lawrie Brand 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Matt Etheridge, Neil Phillips
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
vertically_challenged 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead p3 & p4. the step left under the overhang was a bit scary cos ihad got a bit lazy with putting gear in. but the rest of the climb was nice.

owain86 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3. Thought it was soft, one move stepping left at overhang which is a little off balance, 5b

Alex.M-M. 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 06/Jun/11 AltLd rpt


with terry
Hidden 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tim newton 04/May/11 AltLd O/S
with andy stotesbury
Rich Kirby 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Lincoln 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Rick Kirby
Adam Armitage 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing stuff! Ferocious move under the roof on pitch 3 :-) gripping!

uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Andrew Barker 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

A great route. Si led the crux pitch which was pretty tough. My job was to link the first two pitches into one - I didn't fancy the inevitable rope drag involved with zig-zagging through a bush so decided to bulldoze a line directly to the second belay from where the first pitch moves right. It was a bit snappy and very bold but pretty entertaining - I reckon around E2/3 5a/b.

with Si
Speeddemonsi 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S


beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
wilchivs 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led the crux pitch - belayed at the tree ledge, not sure if this was right or not but it worked out fine!

with Sarah Joyce
Trisha Murphy 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with mike
Duncan Campbell 15/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

p1, p3. rux pitch isnt easy, too hard, awkward sections...awesome belay! bold easy pitch

Bennykr 15/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

pretty sweeet, a little dirty

with Duncan
greenclimb 01/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
dan ely 24/May/10 AltLd O/S

hard to get around roof luckly i was seconding. Really exposed lead p1 and 3

with ed
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 16/May/10 AltLd dnf

Was using an old guide, which gave the route HVS. And didn't even grade the first pitch. Simon lead first and ran the first 2 pitches together. I lead the second, but from the discription went up from the holly tree and soon found myself in loose and hard climbing. Got to a block and lowered off. The climbing was not pleasant anyway.

with Welsh Simon, Swifty
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd
HeatherF 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex
fennerz 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

last pitch was fantastic!

with Simon
marlow 05/Mar/10 -

don't go left on the third pitch too soon! Very scary climbing.... but a great pitch and a really amazing finish!!!

mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
danny33 ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 24/Sep/09 AltLd
Different Steve 13/Jun/09 Lead dog

Scary step left at the peg....

with Clare
Hidden 11/May/09 2nd rpt
SMc ?/May/09 Lead O/S

Not easy - sustained - hard going under and around roof - can do 3rd and 4th together- top pitch a bit loose - overall really good

with Anne
colina 26/Apr/09 -

seconded this route with phil //managed to slip off under the roof traverse,do it next time though i reckon

with phil
mike lawrence? 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Top pitch fantastic

with Simon Kemper
Rob Pitt 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
Carly 21/Mar/09 AltLd dnf
with sophie
Hidden 19/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
barni 24/Jun/08 2nd
with Sheila
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
OffshoreAndy 30/Aug/07 AltLd

Lead P2,P4

with UKC Rob Greenwood
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Dan 85 06/Jun/07 Lead dog

Top section whilst being easy consists of a number of loose flakes etc.

with Jonny
Hidden 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Cragrat Rich 16/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. The crux moves under the roof are strenuous and baffling. Top pitch is excellent and serious

Hidden 16/Oct/06 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
gonggashan 30/Jul/04 AltLd
with Mike
jparry75 ?/Jun/04 Lead
with m.evans
Hidden 17/Jul/00 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/00 Lead O/S
WB ??/2000 -

Felt well sketchy

with James
nige pacer ?/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
Paul Boardman ??/1996 -
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 30/May/94 AltLd O/S

Poor second pitch, but 3rd and fourth are absolute solid gold. Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Only bank holiday in Wales I ever remember being sunny for three days in a row!

with Steve Jones
Budge ?/May/94 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden 20/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/89 AltLd

Al didn't follow on the top pitch as he was running late, so we abbed back down, followed by a mad drive back to Manchester, ratty words from his mrs as they were running late for a night at the Opera. When they eventually made it they were an hour early as Al had messed up the times! Seem to recall that it was HVS.

with Alan Payne
michael burrows 07/May/89 AltLd O/S

led 3rd and 5th pitch

with pete roberts
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden 10/Aug/87 AltLd
Backinthegame ?/Aug/86 AltLd

Gary led hard pitch - I led run-out pitch at the top

with Gary Hughes
Hidden 06/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
mark-abz ?/Jul/85 Lead
with Graham W
John Marsland 21/Apr/84 Lead
with Dave Mould
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
AlanLittle ?/Jul/83 AltLd
with John Walters
Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
tapley 04/Jul/81 AltLd
with Chris Seymour
mikej 22/Jun/81 AltLd
with The Puerile Ticker
Hidden 24/Mar/81 AltLd
charlesmfrench 24/Jan/81 AltLd dnf

L,L. Then rain?

with Ian Milne
RichardMc 29/Jun/80 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead O/S

A bit desperate and unpleasant.

with Mark Holt?
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Mark Kemball 08/Sep/78 Lead
with Richard Lang
Rob Davies ?/Apr/77 Lead dnf

Not sure when I tried this, but backed off big swing L

steve L 15/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
Bolt Phobia 10/Jun/76 AltLd
Mike Owen 17/Apr/76 -
with John Roberts
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/76 AltLd O/S

Nobody told us about the jug, and neither leader nor second noticed it. Did seem hard for an HVS!

with Martin Smith
mikej 10/Sep/75 AltLd dnf

Short of time and bottle.

with Mike Byles
Nigel Bond 27/Jul/75 Lead
with Steve
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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
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Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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