Tarantula/Tantalus** E1 5b

Rockfax Description
A route that takes the best two pitches from these routes and combines them into one stunning E1. The first pitch is technical and balancy and the final pitch is totally out there. Start down and right of Tensor, at a rib that is the toe of the central slab.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the rib to a good ledge and arrange gear in the overhang. A technical sequence over this leads to delicate climbing up the slab above. Trend right to gain the airy arete. Belay on the ledge as for Tensor. An easier alternative is to follow Tensor P1 which is VS.
2) 5b, 30m. A stunning pitch. Climb up and right from the belay to a groove. Ascend this, and the rib, until level with the wall on the left. Step left to clip a peg - wires back this up - before making a committing pull out left to gain a jug on the arete. Move up the arete briefly, then make a delicate and airy traverse left to a ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. As for P3 of Tensor. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Combination that goes up the cliff at E1 (or HVS if that's what you think the hardest bit is worth)


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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

P1 didnt get any gear worth having where it mattered so went into solo mode!
shaunhumphreys - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/15 with benkelsey

Great climb. I only led the last pitch (4b) Karen did two great pitches. Balancy and lovely. I pulled on the piton on the second pitch so cant say I did it, but lovely climbing never the less!
Denry - AltLd dog - 21/Mar/15 with Karen AI

Apparently in some guide books this is HVS, what a sandbag that would be! Quite bold in places but enjoyable climbing.
foostu4 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/15 with max railing

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/15

A first-rate combination, giving dramatic, airy situations on both main pitches. Still felt going direct over crux bulge on P1 was a stiff move, but don't think I found most technical sequence. Good gear here but run out above. P2 traverse feels excitingly bold, even though the gear's above your head. Led 5b pitches. (Did Tarantula a decade ago, but fell off at bulge.)
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 19/Mar/15 with Johnny

jon22 - AltLd - 09/Aug/14 with Dave Garry

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 11/Nov/12

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Hood
Voting
Total votes cast 8
hard E20 of 3
E20 of 3
easy E20 of 3
hard E12 of 3
E11 of 3
easy E10 of 3
hard HVS0 of 3
HVS0 of 3
easy HVS0 of 3
hard 5c0 of 3
5c0 of 3
easy 5c0 of 3
hard 5b0 of 3
5b3 of 3
easy 5b0 of 3
hard 5a0 of 3
5a0 of 3
easy 5a0 of 3
3 Stars0 of 2
2 Stars2 of 2
1 Star0 of 2
0 Stars0 of 2
Bag of .....0 of 2
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