30m. Climbs the natural line of grooves and flake cracks on the left hand side of the impressive 'Sauron' slab. Climb the initial blocky groove past 3 bolts via 2 fins to gain the large ledge. The hard climbing starts here with a technical move to get established on the wall / slab. Continue upwards following the system of flakes to a square cut groove, some technical and precarious moves up the arete on the right hand side of the groove make for a really cool crux. 11 bolts protect to a double bolt lower off + a bolt belay / abseil point on the ledge above.
Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 05/May/2011