Excelsior** E1 5b
[Excelsior (E1 5B), 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A long and varied line-up of steep pitches build to an exposed climax on the final headwall. Start left of the base of East Gully.
1) 4b, 13m. Climb three square-cut corners to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. On the left of the ledge are two parallel rounded cracks. Take these steeply, and the crack above, to another good belay ledge.
3) 5a, 17m. Climb easily to another ledge in an overhung recess. Take the steep right hand corner to the overhang and pull right to an exposed ledge and belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move right beneath the wall to a line of weakness and climb to a black streak. Climb the black streak on small holds to a break and make a final tricky sequence to pass it. The top is just above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Excelsior (E1 5B) © Kafoozalem
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 90 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Led P2 and P4
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Rich Draisey

dready - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/15 with dillwat

P 1 & 4. Great route, with loads of variety. P2 is the tough one.
Dilwat - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/15 with dready

rob.grafton - 2nd - 28/Jun/15 with Martin Smith, andy bunnage

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15

jimmatthews - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15 with Chris Andrews

Not sure where the 5b move was on the top pitch, second pitch felt like the crux to me. Route was brilliant.
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Richard Nicholson

Slick - AltLd - 04/Apr/15 with Alastair Begley

Hidden - 2015

Had to have a rest on the crack pitch, thought it was really hard.
jhb0510 - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/14 with Luke Randall

Like many, I found the twin cracks on pitch2 pretty hard - it was not long after high water and they were greasy and slippery. Good gear at least! The following two pitches were great, although that top pitch is very 'out there' with not much gear. I'd say 5b, 5a, 5a/b
derekm - AltLd - 10/Sep/14

Led p3. Thought cracks on p2 was the crux
david morse - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14 with chris todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14

Led P1&2 as one.
spragglerocks - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Matt, Matt Box

Felt gippy throughout but thought the whole route was pretty steady and very enjoyable, especially as second :) .
Lumbering Oaf - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Matt McLay, Rach Spraggs

Lead P2&4. Thought P2 harder than the 5b pitch!
Batt - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/14 with Si Coldrick

The cracks are good, didnt think much of the rest, top pitch was easy - far more so than the first.
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Konrad

Did pitch 2 and had trouble in the parallel cracks, lack of chalk to start with didn't help with the damp.
Robin Woodward - AltLd dog - Jul/13

Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Rachel Ashwell

rashwell - 2nd - Jun/13

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/13

Marcin78 - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Stu

Either the top pitch has changed over the years, or this is very soft for 5b. gear was small but bomber. 5a twin cracks was hardest pitch by far.
jakenichol - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Kayleigh Tremaine

Did first two pitches then came face to face with a bird, i tried convincing it that despite its first impression it didn't want to peck my eyes out, but it disagreed, so with much hex swinging i lowered off. Another time when there aren't birds.
arandall - Lead dnf - 11/May/12 with Wendy Matthews

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

Tide was coming in so ended up scrambling up first pitch. I lead p2 and p4. P2 was good and p4 not as hard as I was expecting.
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Chris Goddard

guy757 - 15/Apr/12

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Guy Buckingham

Lead P2 and P5 (CC guide pitches). Patrick led P1 and rather than putting P3 and P4 together (as in the Rockfax) decided to split them leading both. P5, the 5b pitch, was easy but the first 5a pitch (P2) felt nails - The cracks were sopping wet and steep. I got a mega-pump, could barely take a hand of to place gear and was pretty close to decking onto the massive belay ledge below! Had to place gear, then down-climb to rest and depump. Lots of seagulls, seagull poo, crashing waves etc. Fab!
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Patrick

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

Led througout in 2 pitches... Enjoyed the jamming, lots of jug hauling too. Felt like two grit HVS's on top of each other!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 19/Aug/11 with Jon

TerryLines - AltLd dog - 15/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11

Found the first crack pitch way harder than the rest of it! Birds weren't too fierce thankfully. The last pitch has a bomber hex in the break then a bit of a runout before you get to the jugs though it did not feel hard at all compared to the first 5a pitch. A lovely route!
Scotsken - AltLd - 20/May/11

climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/11

led in one big pitch
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with helen gibson

Led P1 and P3. Dirty.
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

jchenoweth - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Tide was too high was first pitch. Ian leaded 2nd pitch and Roger 3rd. We are to get off route, due to bird nest.
sergio46 - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with roger benton, Ian Jones

A frustrating one. Unable to access at tidal level. Abbed in. Superb 5a pitch then stubborn seabird colonies refused us passage.
Ian Jones - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/11 with Seargeant Serge, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton

I Lead the Crux Pitch
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Tom Thorpe

Led P2 and P4
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Pete Wimbush

E1: 4b 5a 5a 5a
Bulls Crack - AltLd - Aug/10 with RW

verticon - Lead O/S - 13/May/10 with Craig Harwood

Led 5a P2, Mick then led onto the top
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 11/May/10 with Mick Walsh

Seymore Butt - 2010

sims - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/09 with Nick

Very enjoyable, with luxury belay ledges. Last pitch has a 5b move next to marginal small wire protection - just one good wire here and the whole climb would be HVS, IMO.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Clare

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/08

Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/08

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/08 with Rebecca Holland

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jul/07

Fell off the "4c" pitch, having tried to take the right crack instead of the left. Apart from that, clean.
Epic Ebdon - 2nd - 05/May/07 with Neil Adams

Last pitch was far easier than expected, but the twin craks lower down were brutal!
Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Tim Ebdon

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/07

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/07 with jez

Hidden - 2007

Worth every penny- very social belays
guyblackwood - AltLd - 08/Aug/06 with Mark Glaister, Alison M.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/05

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Sep/05

Pippa fell and broke ankle, I rescued with Jim's help.
Jason Gotel - 2nd - Aug/05 with Pippa Lansdown

gimmer - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Matt Telfer

Sarah led pitch 2 and 4
skygodley - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/04 with SarahM

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/04

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/03

A lovely route after yet another Cornish sandbagging.
Paz - AltLd O/S - Jun/03 with CC

Stone Muppet - 2003

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

With Clark Alston
Simon cook - AltLd - May/02

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/00

craig h - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/00 with Mark c

plain kitten - 2000

done twice
andy_pemberton - Lead - 1999 with Steve Gooberman Hill, Rik Meek

Mark Kemball - Lead - 01/Jun/97 with Rob Galley

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/96 with David Trelawney-Ross

jcw - 2nd - 1994 with Martin Harris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/May/87

A good varied climb with a great top pitch
Jah - AltLd - 03/May/80 with T. Sawyer

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 07/Jun/77

Hidden - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, dready, Dilwat, Master Chief, willotheward, Ian Jones, Steve Waters, Mynydd, jeffb, Alan100, clive-greenwood

Voting
Total votes cast 74
hard E20 of 26
E20 of 26
easy E20 of 26
hard E10 of 26
E111 of 26
easy E113 of 26
hard HVS2 of 26
HVS0 of 26
easy HVS0 of 26
hard 5c0 of 25
5c0 of 25
easy 5c0 of 25
hard 5b0 of 25
5b8 of 25
easy 5b10 of 25
hard 5a7 of 25
5a0 of 25
easy 5a0 of 25
3 Stars2 of 23
2 Stars16 of 23
1 Star5 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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