Rockfax Description
A legendary Cornish classic that traces an exposed line across the blankest section of Bosigran's Main Face. Start at an easy-angled line of weakness that runs up rightwards to beneath a black wall known as the Coal Face.
1) 25m. Follow the weakness to a belay under the Coal Face.
2) 4b, 14m. Move up the corner right of the Coal Face to the start of a thin diagonal crack that runs up left across the Coal Face. Climb the crack to a large block on the arete and belay - the Pedestal stance.
3) 5a, 15m. Follow flakes leftwards across the wall above the Pedestal and move up to a wide break and good cams. Traverse the break left a short way until it is possible to gain a small ledge and belay below a smooth groove.
4) 5c, 9m. Some very hard but well-protected moves start the groove which then eases just before a belay ledge is reached a short distance above.
5) 4b, 15m. Move up the leaning corner above the belay for a few metres before swinging rightwards on good holds out of the corner to easier climbing and the top. Climbing the leaning corner directly is the strenuous top pitch of Paragon 5a. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Kernow, West Country Climbs, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Hidden 22/Oct Lead O/S
jonleighton 18/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug AltLd
ChrisBrooke 30/Jul AltLd O/S

Led Coal Face pitch and crux pitch to the top, using the direct Paragon finish (awkward). Really enjoyable route. The climbing on the coal face is great but feels more serious than the grade suggests. The traverse was lovely climbing with an awkward mantle at the end. The crux was hard and a bit committing, even with the protection you'd probably hit the ledge if you muffed it. A lot of fun and a lovely varied route though.

with Duncan Bell
JoeCoxson 29/Jul AltLd O/S

Lead all but the 2nd pitch. Made a pig's ear of a couple of sections, some very ungraceful moments, but didn't fanny around for two long working out the crux. Another very memorable Bosi tick.

Wendy Watthews 29/Jul AltLd

Joe lead all the meaty pitches with minimal disco leg, I lead the coal face

with joe c
robgixer 17/Jul AltLd O/S
lukegorman 27/Jun Lead O/S
with beni
Curly Rich 27/Jun AltLd O/S

In 3. me p1 &3

with gmc
RosePearson 21/Jun Lead O/S

A bit of a stiff warmup in the morning. I was a little nervous starting up the crib as I felt greasy and didn't want to take a factor two fall onto the belay

with Gywlim
foostu4 03/Jun AltLd O/S

Linked pitches 2+3 made it a bit scary! P4 quite tricky!

Hidden 03/Jun AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram 03/Jun AltLd O/S
with Nick Bryan
maryleese 03/Jun AltLd dnf
with nickb1
nickb1 ?/Jun Lead O/S
with liam ingram
Rachel Somerville 29/May AltLd dog
with Cal
Hidden 26/May AltLd rpt
pearson9596 23/May Lead O/S
ian d f 23/May AltLd rpt

Climbed in 3 pitches with the two harder pitches together. Probably a bad way to do it, as you are more likely to hit the ledge on the crux.

jimmatthews 22/May Lead O/S
chris687 22/May AltLd O/S

Did the traverse pitch, awkwardly.

Sam Simpson 22/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May AltLd O/S
andrewmcleod 16/May 2nd dog

Took rests on the crux, slightly too high/pumped/stuck to downclimb, and slightly too short to easily reach the jug!

Hidden 16/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May Lead
ewalker278 16/May Lead
LJC 22/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead everything except coalface traverse. Finished up Paragon as the rightward exit is pretty overgrown and dirty. More serious than the guidebook and E1 5c suggests.

ben.richards 22/Apr AltLd
Spearos 20/Apr AltLd O/S

p2, p4+5 together

with Riggo
Dan0Me 12/Apr AltLd O/S

3rd pitch. Some interesting shapes coming out getting onto the belay ledge

with James S, Geoff P
grp 12/Apr AltLd
James S 12/Apr AltLd O/S

all pitches bar the first romp were excellent, suuuper windy though so belays were a bit chilly!

with geoff, dan
cem 04/Apr AltLd rpt

Led the coalface pitch. Backed off leading the 5c pitch as I was too nervous about my injured foot hitting the belay ledge if I came off.

Kirill 04/Apr AltLd dog
Katsmiff 04/Apr AltLd dog

Martin started leading and ran the first two pitches into one. I lead the 3rd pitch cleanly but fell off seconding the 4th 5c pitch - back to not trusting my feet after a slippy foot hold.

Martin Bagshaw 04/Apr AltLd O/S
kennythescot 22/Mar AltLd dnf
with Luke Robinson
Jackislav 16/Mar AltLd dog

Cruised 3&4, fell off last move on 5 due to sopping wet holds. Whole thing felt very greasy although the traverse and crux pitch offered some incredible exposed climbing, very enjoyable pitches, very frustrated at falling off moving awkwardly over the last bulge on P5 onto a very wet ledge, bird Poo didn't help either!

Cheese Monkey 14/Mar AltLd O/S

Fantastic varied climbing. P1 was a pleasant speedy romp. P2 lovely slab climbing. P3 really great well protected traverse with an awkward finish. P4 crux is placing gear to protect the crux... Literally one 5c move then jugs and easier stuff. Great pitch. Be aware one of the belay pegs is essentially snapped. was great, steep 4b pull to a body pod thing then romp to the top. Brilliant

with Peter
pheotleyr 14/Mar AltLd O/S
with Ben
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Scooter Young ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
ferdia 29/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Andy Moles 29/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
alastairbegley 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

lead the 5a & 5c pitch. Traverse was nicely exposed and the 5c pitch was great, just a shame it is off the belay with a FF2 potential

Slick 27/Sep/14 AltLd
tskelhon 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
beds74 26/Sep/14 AltLd

Dave did first 2, I did rest. Tried this on Tuesday and my partner just didn't fancy seconding the 5a traverse, which was pretty bold, but great moves, took awhile to work the very last move onto the ledge out! Dave had big cam on harness... So I made decision to reverse the traverse take gear out and abseil off block on pitch two. (Easier said than done!) Did 5c pitch on top rope (26th) and last pitch of Paragon (I think it was Paragon-see comments-Fuc***g desperate!)

with Dave Fisher
Hidden 18/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
bigdrew 18/Sep/14 AltLd
with Eve
Hidden 02/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
markalmack 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

lead in 1 pitch

with gwen, james marjot
RFWilkie 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd, 4th and 5th Pitches

with Bec
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/14 AltLd
hornbywill 27/Jul/14 AltLd

Climbed up the crux pitch a few times to place gear then did it 5c seems fair

Brian H 27/Jul/14 AltLd
richiebongo 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

We split it into 5 pitches as the party before us had and i got pitch 1,3,4.

with Mat Coburn
1poundSOCKS 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Rich led P1 (the easy rising traverse), I led P2 (the Coal Face traverse), Rich led P3 and P4 (the 5a traverse, and the 5c crux), and I led P5 (the 5a left-hand variant finish). The crux pitch belay is solid, the pegs were backed up with 2 good pieces, but insecure 5c moves with hard to place gear and a potential fall factor 2 onto the belay was exciting. Excellent route, glad we got it ticked, the crux won't get any easier, the footholds are very shiny already.

Ewan Russell 14/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

4th and 5th

with Tom Nichols
peter.ravenscroft27 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Beautiful Route!!!! will be remembered for sure. had to abseil off due to rain on the the 4/07/14 so we had to come and settle the score two days later in the sun.

Maywood96 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Awesome route - lead all pitches with 5a finish. Stiff - thought every pitch was a tech grade harder than guide, though the heat/resulting greasiness probably didn't help.

Emma Reynolds 17/Jun/14 2nd

5a finish via Paragon. Exposed traverse pitch.

Fred_Richard 15/Jun/14 AltLd

Lead P1, P3, P5. Very nice route, shame p4 is so slippery now. The 5a Traverse definitely make the 3 stars for me.

with bill turner
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd dog
jakenichol 04/May/14 Lead β
monsteratt 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

very Good. Lead all pitches except the traverse. Quality climbing. Shame the pitches are so short.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead traverse

Hidden 25/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Nevil 20/Apr/14 Lead
with Martin, Vince
Vincej 20/Apr/14 2nd
spragglerocks 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1, 3 & 5.

David Kay 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

A route I will never forget...! My knee made a horrible popping/crunching sound whilst making a simple step up move from the belay on pitch 5. Luckily I was on second and managed to complete the pitch despite not being able to put much weight on my left leg. Thanks Rachael for carrying me off the crag!

Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
gg4419 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 15/Mar/14 AltLd dog
TDSvejstrup 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

2nd and 3rd pitches definitely made the route.

zcsharp 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Such a great climb! Well worth the effort. Did the direct 5a finish and lead the 5c and 5a traverse pitch. Me and my partner both agree that our traverses were a lot scarier because of the wind pushing us off and that the 5c pitch felt easier than 5c. Reverse bellyflop traverse at the end of p3 FTW!

Camilla Mapstone ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Tom, Jamie
JoeE ?/Mar/14 2nd

First pitch was a bit damp.

with Irish Joe
Hidden 11/Jan/14 AltLd dnf
Doug miller 11/Jan/14 AltLd dnf
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Dave Searle ??/2014 -
Luxulyan 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Tim
tim.fairhall 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1+2, and 4+5 (direct finish)

with Richard
smallerrich 11/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch one and the last two pitches together

MD 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1, p3, p4 and p5 alternate direct finish.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 24/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Led p2 and loved it. Had to take low option for traverse as too short to reach ledge with inelegant mantle to belay pt. Dogged p4 (too short again) backed off p5 and pinged on 2nd but survived the direct finish.

with Mike D
Julesthe1st 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Mike
j.buckley87 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
bwestwood 13/Aug/13 Lead
Graham Westbrook 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Great route! 5c pitch felt pretty greasy, was quite hard work! The coal face wasn't that easy at 4b either, maybe feet in the crack instead of hands??

Trobbo 12/Aug/13 2nd
with Stu Bradbury
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd dnf
Hidden 04/Jul/13 2nd
ian d f 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led 3rd and 4th

with Bob, Norman
Norman_P_W 04/Jul/13 AltLd
with Bob M
Alex the Alex ?/Jul/13 AltLd dnf

Polish and sun and a sopping wet break on pitch 3. we backed off after that...

Gavdee1 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Led first pitch

with Kev
Kevster 24/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

After first pitch, remaining pitches done in one, with the harder direct finish. Makes it hard E1 like this.

Hidden 23/Jun/13 AltLd dog
Dizz 23/Jun/13 AltLd
with EJ
Ross.Cooper 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led flake traverse pitch and final pitch, went direct, pretty spicy finish.

lanky ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd dnf
Hidden 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
Misha 15/May/13 AltLd O/S

First route of the day in the shade - we knew it would be cold and it was! Davor did P1&2 together. I led P3, which was solid E1 5a - exposed, tricky moves and a bold start (particularly as Davor belayed standing on top of the pedestal off an ageing peg and two micro cams!). Followed by an ungainly shuffle to finish (the hidden hold is way over left!). Davor led P4&5 in one, taking in the vicious direct finish. Good, varied route but not sure about 3 stars. With Davor on BMC international meet.

with Davor
morganator 13/May/13 Lead
with International Meet Guest
Ed Booth 13/May/13 2nd O/S
with Jon Redmond
Binder 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

I led P3 (traverse) and top pitch (getting stuck in the chimney). Fantastic on a beautiful sunny day.

with Dave J, JT
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
onlyfoddington 30/Mar/13 2nd dog

Awesome climb. In retrospect I am gutted that I gave up at the end of the 5a traverse. Found a sequence which needed a dynamic approach but otherwise was not too bad on the 5c pitch. Found the first 4b pitch really fluttery.

with Steve R
stevorobs3 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
IzzyWhite 28/Mar/13 2nd dnf
IzzyWhite 28/Mar/13 2nd dnf
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 -
Ed morris 08/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

A fantastic climb. very varied and interesting. The crux is hard, as is the end of the traverse pitch.

with Colin
jacobjlloyd 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S


with Mike Spooner
mikespooner 27/Oct/12 AltLd dog
with Jake Lloyd
Hidden 13/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
Frances Bensley 30/Sep/12 AltLd β
El3ctroFuzz 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Not 5c, 5b.

with Paul Roberts
Hidden 20/Sep/12 AltLd dnf
stuart34 08/Sep/12 Lead dog

fuck me!

Martin Haworth 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Worst 3 star route ever! No line, polished rock, completely imbalanced and unpleasant crux, 1 star for a few comedy moments: gangly mantle on traverse pitch, combined tactics from jim on crux and me getting scared and squeezing behind flake on final pitch

with Jim
Hidden 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

short pitches but a very groovy route

with Colin
Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Mike W 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S
shouter 28/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead
ushi 23/Jun/12 AltLd
with Andy Marshall
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
tgeh 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 07/Jun/12 2nd
rustaldo 06/May/12 Lead O/S

great route, P2 and the traverse P3 really nice climbing in an awesome position! some combined tactics used to leave the bomber belay (2pegs + nuts!) of the crux pitch

with Si
Hidden 17/Apr/12 2nd
burto 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with malc
Jonesy_A 07/Apr/12 2nd dnf

Leader (Joe) on P3 continued all the way to the top. I was Going well till the crux at the beginnning of P3 where i fell, with the only piece of gear on this rope failing. Then swung out to random platform and overhanded by my way up the rope to escape.... interesting experience...

givemetea 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Alternated leads with Patrick doing the crux pitch. Super-polished route that doesn't seem worthy of 'Top 50' status.

with Patrick
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd rpt
adam 24 06/Apr/12 Lead RP
tobydunford 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
francois 31/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Led P1 scramble and P3 traverse with the bellyflop finish. Chris led P2 and took a fall on P4 straight onto the top peg and landed underneath the ledge, exciting times. Low blood sugar led to a shameful retreat!

with Chris
BelayBunney 31/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Bummer! We got stumped by P4! More like a 6a move than 5c - took a fall trying to make the move and ended up falling below the belay! Had to abandon as we were running out of time and energy!

arandall 23/Mar/12 AltLd β

Climb the crack to an open bay, oh if only it were that simple. Brilliant route, P1 solo, second P2, lead the rest. Some very good hard moves. Managed to bleed all over it though :)

Wendy Watthews 23/Mar/12 AltLd

lead pitch two, had to weigh the rope a little on pitch 4, the third belay made for some very interesting on belly cam removal :)

Hidden 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
pete87abs 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Rosie Crossley
Pete Graham 27/Feb/12 AltLd
with Ben Silvestre
Davebryant 25/Feb/12 AltLd
sam.hann 25/Feb/12 AltLd
paultaylor 14/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Edd
eddy-on-the-rocks 14/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Down jacket ascent. Alternate pitches 10years after first time. P2 was mondo in trainers. P Dawg did a bit of phantom to start P3 - cool.

with P Dawg
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
alasdair19 ??/2012 -

with dan aided 5c bit looked hard and ledgy

JonG ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
tumbling wizard ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
DanH9883 ??/2012 Lead
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/11 Lead O/S
fraserbarrett 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Dave Heaton 28/Oct/11 Lead
with James Forbes
Hidden 28/Oct/11 2nd
Anta Misina 02/Oct/11 2nd dog
mark20 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1+2 together. Polished but classy

soph ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
Graeme Hammond 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3, 4 & 5. Top effort by Becky on pitch 2, the Coal Face. Pitch 3 is really good. If you back up the peg belay with better natural gear as per the CC guides tip (hex/cam) and get the 2nd to sit on the ledge the 4th pitch feels slightly better protected. Finished up the harder 5a top pitch of Paragon as the 4b finish looked even harder!

with Becky E
Becky E 23/Aug/11 AltLd

Led P2 (Coalface) clean - very pleased with that and seconded P3 clean. Needed tight rope on P4 to reach the holds. P5 (top pitch of Paragon) was horrific!

Matthew Robinson 21/Aug/11 AltLd
with Jon
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led throughout. Found the crux pitch pretty stiff and easy to fluff. Not as 'well protected ' as RFax suggests either really. Got pretty strung out disco legging on 5c finger locks above a 'direct to belay pegs' fall potential... The pitch before required a pretty tough rockover sequence too! Great Hard Rock tick :)

gowla 16/Aug/11 AltLd dog

in the drizzle.. aided coming off the ledge

with Alan Dovey, tom maunder
Hidden 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jack_F 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
adam cooper*super* 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

had so much fun getting on to the belay on pitch 2!

tatz45 ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led teh 2 crux pitches as Katy had done it before.

Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
myoung 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom L, Heather
Tom Livingstone 11/Jul/11 2nd
Subwaycups 01/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Fell from the fourth (GREASY!) pitch, and then backed off. First outdoor fall...

with Rob H
CRiddiford 23/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Tom, Mike
thomasadixon 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 3, 4 an 5 in 1. Crux felt nails for the grade, was short lived though so as described I guess. Probably not 3 star but still pretty good. Finished up the last pitch of Paragon.

Laurence Everitt 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st, 2nd and 4th of the 5 pitches

Harry Thorpe 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led traverse and last pitch. Traverse is awesome, managed to flop onto the belay ledge by the skin of my teeth! A quality route

Luke90 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Had most difficulty getting onto the belay ledge before the technical crux pitch!

with Liz Alder
a13x 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! Wanted to do it it for ages. Led P2 and P4.

Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jun/11 AltLd dnf
manwithacam 28/May/11 AltLd

Climbed 5c pitch on top rope, dont think it is very well protected, and its rather polished.

SamChessell 27/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch, Dave lead 2nd and ran 4th and 5th into one. Absolutley amazing route, hard 5a pitch! both lead and second can take big swings. Dave did awesome on the 5c moves, getting good finger locks in and working round the polish. top route, classic. and my first multi pitch E1!

Hidden 27/May/11 AltLd O/S
Scotsken 22/May/11 AltLd
Bobby Gilbert 05/May/11 2nd rpt
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Doug lead P1, P3, P5, Jo lead P2, I lead P4. Doug has climbed this route before (but has never lead P3). Varied and fantastic route! Considering the real risk of a factor 2 fall at the crux 5c move in P4, I would say this is an E1 route for E2 leaders.

with Jo B, Doug S
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead
mattshort 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Alan100 28/Apr/11 -

Fantastic climb altho the 5c pitch felt easier than the 5a one. Maybe i reached too far left on the crux.. Plenty of variety and great positions all the way.

Mayo 28/Apr/11 2nd
with Kaya
Hidden 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
sergio46 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch. 2nd pitch brilliant!! Well done to Dan on 3rd & 4th pitches. Interesting boulder problem at 4th pitch crux. Final pitch is not 4b, more 5a.

Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead
Ian Jones 26/Apr/11 Lead RP

Sandbag at E1. Very hard work placing the gear and took many sorties. Grabbed a krab at one point. Climbed down about 15 times. Dan seconded first time! Is this really such a great classic?

with Wing Commander Daniel Whaley
Hidden 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Jez 25/Apr/11 AltLd β

Another repeat: led P1, P3

with NJSharp
Steve Waters, Mynydd 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1, P3 (Traverse Pitch) and P5 (swing into pod). P3 was exciting - the move up to the break was protected by a rusty peg which I could only clip with a krab sitting across a rock edge. Spent ages contemplating the final move. I couldn't work it out at all. In the end I lanched across fully expecting to be off but instinct got me up. P4 (the 5c pitch) had more positive hand holds than I was expecting. Had no problem on the foot holds. Great lead by Mike. P5 was way more than 4B. I had at least 4 exhausting attempts before I got established in the pod and I had to remove my helmet for the excellent exit.

mtempest 21/Apr/11 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Dan_Carroll 18/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Alan
Hidden 18/Apr/11 AltLd
andybenham 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Jeremy led up the rake and across the coal face as one. I led the traverse and the pitch above (ran last two together). Couldn't work out where to go after the hard groove...tried to squeeze into a damp greasy off-width and eventually gave up and finished up the last pitch or paragon. Traverse is an excellent piece of climbing .. last move onto he ledge is quite exciting! Hard moves off the ledge felt very committing and I climbed up and down several times before finally committing. Very pleased to finally do this.

Clay C 03/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
with Jay
Jay C 03/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
with Clay C
flyinfrenchy 02/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
mbradberry2008 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Lead 3rd pitch traverse, then kept falling on the 5c pitch sooo close, abbed down, will be back!

pudding 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

i did 3rd and 4th pitches then got lost as the guide book said move out right and ending up swinging around the flake into an awesome exposed finish, should be an alternative end - much less polish up there :) managed to avoid combined tactics on pitch 4!

with mike mason
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led crux & top pitch

with Harry
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
JEP ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
with Pete Ollis
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
colkurtz 05/Sep/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead
Jack_F 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Quality route! worth every star! not sure what everyone is complaining though about the polish on pitch 4. you have obvoisly never climbed on chudleigh :)

with mike waller, adam cooper* super*
Alex T (RAFMA) 29/Aug/10 AltLd
with Rimon
mike88 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

me 2nd

with Jack Folland
Jim Slater 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3, P5

spum 16/Aug/10 AltLd
with ben jones
Si dH 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

All soloed 1st pitch, Tom led 2nd, I led 3rd, Neil led 4th (crux), Tom led 5th. Overall a disappointing route. My 5a pitch was the only good one. Neil's was really hard 5c due to polish and the gear was extremely difficult to place above an only-adequate belay - felt pretty nasty for E1 really. Would only give it more than one star for the history.

with Tom Lambert, Neil Furniss
Hidden 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
3 Names 02/Aug/10 Lead rpt
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Nel Tindale, Jim Jarvis
Hidden 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
bullwinkle 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3 & 5

with Bart
metal arms 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 & 3

Hidden 12/Jul/10 Lead rpt
jasonpm 12/Jul/10 2nd dog
with TonyM
lukea 10/Jul/10 Lead β
with Al
mikeyg 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Lead traverse, 5c pitch and the mental last 4b pitch. Is it just me or is that the last pitch the scariest? Weird rock over to throw yourself into a crack followed by a green lichen slab!

Hidden 06/Jul/10 AltLd
melonmike 16/Jun/10 AltLd

Lead the crux fine, fell on the next pitch, injured shoulders begun here.

Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
jacobjacob 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

lead the middle traverse pitch, apparently the start of the third pitch is the crux although neither me nor Thom noticed it... weird

theotherpetehill 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 12/Jun/10 AltLd dog
joese7en 03/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
PaulTanton 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
muttley_109 28/May/10 2nd dog

had to pull on gear at the start of the 5c pitch off the belay ledge due to the amount of polish. finished up top pitch of paragon (5a)

with Gary Lewis, Steven Delaney
Hidden 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
verticon 15/May/10 Lead O/S

For the traverse on the second pitch I used the horizontal crack. The footholds on the crux at the beginning of the 3rd pitch are quite polished, but the handholds are good enough.

with Craig Harwood
Hidden 15/Apr/10 -
benkelsey 15/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

lead pitch two - just a little exposed!! may have forgoten to protect my seconds.

Hidden 12/Apr/10 AltLd β
raku 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

first 2 pithes did with Beata previous year, but had to absail down (Beata was scared of traverse)

with Paul Thomson
Hidden 08/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 08/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with michael porter
arandall ?/Apr/10 2nd dog
JerryD ??/2010 Lead
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Pete Rigby ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden 29/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 04/Oct/09 AltLd dog

Not a route to do in the rain. Tom made a fine traverse as the rain started to fall. Slipping and sliding I pulled up on one of the pegs to place gear after the belay ledge forefitting the clean onsight. Great route though which I would highly recommend.

twright180 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
mark4344 14/Sep/09 AltLd

great route. Led pitch 2 and found ok, after a few commiting moves away from the belay. Dogged 5c pitch and surprised that it was several moves before easier climbing. Good range of cams useful for this route.

with Nick Coles
joese7en 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S

no aid, still fairly straight foward

cat22 18/Aug/09 AltLd
with Mike
Ceridwen 09/Aug/09 AltLd

Brilliant route, pitch 3 was sophie's and really hard. probably deserves an upgrade. we both dogged it, but she did it clean, after several attempts as the hard move is right off the belay ledge.

Sophie Nunn 09/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
climber130887 19/Jun/09 AltLd
with alex cannon and emily bond
Em66 19/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with MUMC
lukehunt 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Bl@ckhawkjac, Nick Smith
nic42 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jack, Luke
Hidden 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
davefount 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

glyn led coal face, traverse (after I backed off it) and 5c pitch. I led easy starting rake and last pitch which is intresting. Whether I went teh right way or not I can't see how this is 4b.

with Glyn
Glyn 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead traverse and crux pitch. Worth every star.

Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 04/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Tiff and Steven Mayor
TiffTiff 04/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve M, Ben H
brian watson 03/May/09 AltLd dog
with scott titt
Tim M 02/May/09 Lead rpt
with Emma
climbergg 02/May/09 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
adamscottthomas 19/Apr/09 AltLd dog

Led the coal face cleanly but generaly frigged the rest.

Mr Tickle 11/Apr/09 Lead dog

One slip on crux 5c move, otherwise clean. Great climb, cant decide which is my favourite pitch

with davenev
davenev 11/Apr/09 2nd

Awesome climb - clean apart from the 5c - traverse a bit spicy with a lovely seal finish!!!

with luke
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Rock Lizard ?/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden 01/Nov/08 AltLd
irish paul 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Great adventureous climbing

with Dave Ripley
sebrider ?/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
eugeneth 03/Oct/08 AltLd
with Seb
Hidden 24/Aug/08 AltLd
centurion05 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Simonfarfaraway 31/Jul/08 AltLd
with Dave A
Fenwick ?/Jul/08 -
with Pete/Tomo
Matt Bennett 22/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
bfreeman 12/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden 12/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
jfreeman 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
simonr 08/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Subwaycups ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
davebrox ?/Jun/08 Lead
Steerpike 27/May/08 AltLd
with Bruce
OffshoreAndy 04/May/08 AltLd O/S

crux traverse pitch

with Skell
bpmclimb 09/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Can't quite decide whether this climb is brilliant or pants.

with Clare
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd
Justin T 16/Feb/08 Lead

Aided start of crux pitch after a couple of abortive attempts sweating out of tiny finger locks.

with Wifey
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Frostie 17/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
AJ007 26/Aug/07 AltLd dnf

the piton belay at start of the third pitch was not inspiring so we retreated.

with Andrew
Hidden 16/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
chris wyatt ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Covered in dew untill the sun gets on it making it slimy. Also the traverse pitch appears easier for those over 5 ft 8

kenneM ?/Aug/07 AltLd

Ange and Bobby

with Ange Laycock, Booby Hewitt
Rich Mayfield 16/Jul/07 AltLd
Ed Babs 02/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
drysori 12/Jun/07 AltLd

Led first 2 pitches as one. Whoever said the coal face pitch is badly protected must be missing a rack. Traverse pitch was brilliant.

stuwelly85 11/Jun/07 Lead dnf

First 3 pitches clean, another group member lowered rope on 5c pitch as couldn't do

with Beck Holland
Beck Holland 11/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with stu llewelyn
Sidekick ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S


yuha 26/May/07 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2, 3 and 4. Pitch 4 at 5c was done clean without combined tactics. Well worth the hype, a classic route!

with Bernard
Neil Adams 19/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Bez
r@bag 27/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1 (easy rake to belay) and pitch 2 (poorly protected, slimy 4c). Dom led the rest. Pitch 3 really hard traverse with sketchy in-situ gear, combined tactics necessary to get me on the belay! Pitch 4 - Awesome. Pitch 5 - harder than expected. Three stars - amazing climb! Every pitch different and enjoyable.

Somerset swede basher 27/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Laurence Davis
dmoir 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Dan B and Heather R
dannyboy83 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Heather Rogers, Dave Moir
pezzerrr 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Dan_Carroll ??/2007 Lead dog
Dave Rumney ??/2007 AltLd
with Sean Roberts
Hidden ?/Oct/06 AltLd
AngelaC 01/Aug/06 AltLd

AC 2+4th

Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead dog
ShaunD ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

awesome. top pitch felt 6a

Hidden 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 20/Jul/06 Lead O/S

felt hard disjointed and naff. although i was in agony with stomach pains on that day. overrated. i only did first pitch lead.

Ram MkiV 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Hidden 03/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
jimdanson 29/May/06 2nd O/S
with Mike Adams
reg_measures 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead O/S
Richard Horn ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
Jez 13/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
maybe_si ?/Apr/06 AltLd
with jez
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
Bern ??/2006 -
wojt ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
ewen ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
centurion05 11/Aug/05 Lead O/S


with Dan Carroll
graniterocks ?/Aug/05 AltLd β
with Nick Kemp
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Lev 06/Feb/05 AltLd O/S

Andrew stood on rich's shoulders to do the 5c move. Worth all 3 stars.

with Andrew Bitmead, Richard Abell
John Kettle ??/2005 AltLd
feilx ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Phil D
William Robertson ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Mark Calver
fifth ??/2005 2nd
datoon ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with WW
Hidden 07/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
johnboyrevel ?/Aug/04 Lead
with Faye
RussB ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

I did the crux pitch.

with Alex H
Tim Steward 20/May/04 Lead
with Andy Gibbs
skygodley 18/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Samuel P ??/2004 2nd
with Tim
Neil ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/03 AltLd
lukea 28/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 27/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 18/Apr/03 Lead G/U
with John Bunny
Different Steve ?/Apr/03 AltLd dnf

Led P3 then rained off

with Martin Hore and Mervyn Lamacraft
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2003 -
JasonG ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Mal Dickson
shoulders 02/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with andy sharp, dai
Hidden 19/May/02 AltLd O/S
cem 29/Mar/02 AltLd O/S

Led p 3 & 5

with Rob Smithies
masa-alpin 16/Feb/02 2nd dnf

Rob lead. Abed off after P2. My first taste of Cornish climbing.

with Claire Wint [ULMC], Rob Whit [ULMC]
bullybones ??/2002 -
Hidden 13/Aug/01 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Jul/01 AltLd
with Chris Ranner, Viv
rockjedi12345 ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S

bloody hard

with Ian Stocker
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
IanGilbertJones 24/Feb/01 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
andy_pemberton ??/2001 AltLd
with Rik Meek
lost.arrow 29/Apr/00 AltLd

Twice is enough, the crux is very hard, maybe 6a. I faffed at the final 4b for some time until I found the knee lock.

with Paul Palfreyman
alex_th ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S

Stephen lead black shiny slab, I led traverse, Stephen lead pitch after traverse with slippery step up, I lead awkward wide crack at top.

with Stephen Lumb
Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
Neil Ireson ??/2000 AltLd
with John
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
NickP ??/2000 -
VPJB ??/2000 -
markpollak ??/2000 -
with roy thomas
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
nickdonohue 21/Nov/99 AltLd
with Mark McCarthy
Roget 18/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with jim
jfletcher 17/Jul/99 Lead
with Charlotte Fletcher
timreynolds 01/May/99 AltLd

Led crux traverse pitch

with Mick Cooke, Sean Corbett
WB 03/Apr/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Chad123 ??/1999 AltLd O/S
chris sm 23/May/98 AltLd O/S
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Alun Richardson
Just Another Dave ??/1998 AltLd
with Ben Hope, Jo Bertalot, Laura
michael burrows 30/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with helen swygart
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
stuart100 14/May/97 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
lost.arrow 27/Apr/97 AltLd
with Martin Styles
Pete Nugent 29/Mar/97 AltLd rpt

Had led before, TM did main pitches

with Tony Madden
cornishben ?/Jan/97 Lead dnf
with Andy Connor
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 -
colin milton 14/Sep/96 AltLd dog

aid to start 5c crack

with eric milton
mikej 13/Sep/96 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ?/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
craig h 24/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
rurp ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/95 Lead O/S
frost ?/May/95 -
with J Turner
Hidden ?/May/95 AltLd
ste_d 17/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 17/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/95 AltLd
Guy ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
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Hidden ??/1995 -
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Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 -
with Paul Tucker
goi.ashmore 06/Dec/94 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

with Tim Darlow
brianrunner ?/Sep/94 AltLd
with gordon innes
GAtkins 24/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Richard Brown, Tim Noble
sdht ??/1994 -
with Tim Reynolds
3 Names ??/1994 Lead dnf
with Brian Parker
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
jcw ??/1994 2nd
with Martin Harris
John Southworth ?/Sep/93 Lead O/S
K1 ??/1993 Lead
Nick Biven 27/Dec/91 Lead O/S
with Rich Whitwell
rogerskews 31/May/91 AltLd
with Bryn Roberts
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
whispering nic 28/Mar/91 AltLd
with Graham Iles
Hidden 26/Mar/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/90 AltLd
NickJH ?/Aug/90 Lead
with D Townsend
biggianthead ?/Jun/90 -
with C
Andy Say 15/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Grezza ?/Apr/90 AltLd

resident fulmar for added risk factor

philhilo ??/1990 -
philhilo ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 -
tapley 24/Oct/89 AltLd
with John Sumner
BigHairyIan 28/Aug/89 AltLd RP

I failed to lead the 5c pitch. Was too hard, and I was going well at the time...

with Mike Buckley (Little Mike)
Bruce Kerr 13/Jul/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/89 -

Fell on the peg. Done a couple of times since .

Hidden 22/Mar/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
richparry ??/1989 -
Tony Buckley ?/Aug/88 Lead
with Richard Brockman
Hidden 12/May/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/88 Lead
steve taylor ?/Mar/88 AltLd
with stumpy
Mike Owen 23/Aug/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
andyblain 23/May/87 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch

wynaptomos ?/Apr/86 2nd O/S
DDDD ??/1986 -
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
scree ?/Apr/85 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1985 Solo O/S
peterbeaumont ??/1985 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
keefe 22/Aug/84 -
GordonHart ?/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with James Butler
Campbell42 ?/Aug/84 AltLd O/S
with Eric Marsden
Richard Weller 28/May/84 AltLd
with Pete Dewdney
malc 12/Apr/84 AltLd dog
with JW
Gregory ??/1984 AltLd
with caroline lee
KRB 01/Sep/83 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
Mark Kemball 20/Jun/83 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
TonyF ?/May/83 Lead O/S
with Paul Harrison
nigehughes ?/Apr/83 AltLd
with Eric Joyce
steveboote ??/1983 Lead

With Rona Owens

charlesmfrench 01/Sep/82 AltLd


Nigel Coe 31/May/82 AltLd dog

Fell off crux, rope burns round leg, ended up aiding that section.

with Steve Portnoi
Roy Stuart ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Billy Bones
Nigel Coe 25/May/80 Lead
with John Walmsley
GeoffG ?/May/80 AltLd
Nic Robinson 08/Apr/80 Lead O/S
with Roy Stupak
Hidden ??/1980 -
uphillnow 01/Nov/79 AltLd

Did the top 5b pitch

with Al Bennett
Hidden ?/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
Mike Owen 29/May/79 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Peat
Andy Edgar ??/1979 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/78 AltLd
Chris Terrey 06/Nov/77 AltLd
with Chris Lloyd
Hidden 15/Aug/77 AltLd
Hidden 15/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 04/Jun/77 AltLd
with Richard Crewe
D Tempest ?/Feb/77 AltLd
steve L 27/Nov/76 AltLd
with sharpie
Falko 16/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with Alan Taylor, Chris Plant
Marcus ??/1976 -
Nigel Bond 22/Jun/75 AltLd
with Ian Duckworth
Ken Taylor 15/May/75 2nd
with Jonathan Lagoe
Rob Davies 31/Mar/75 2nd dog

In those days aid (leader) or strong pull (2nd) on 5c pitch was usual. A fine way to spend my 21st birthday.

with Pete McNulty (ICMC)
Hidden ?/Mar/75 Lead O/S
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 01/Jan/70 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 121
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 117
Votes cast 109
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set