UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

50m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The second pitch gives some exhilarating fly-on-the-wall climbing. Start on a good ledge around 10m up from the bottom of East Gully. The route can be climbed at high tide during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch.
1) 4b, 12m. Take a red/black seam, initially on small holds, to better holds that lead left to a niche. Move up the corner above to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 20m. A great wall pitch. Climb directly up the bubbly wall past a wide break, and then up a short layaway crack to a good ledge and belay.
3) 5a, 7m. Climb the wall just right of Pendulum Chimney, and at a horizontal break, head up right to the arete and make a final couple of exposed moves to a good ledge and belay.
4) 4a, 10m. Move up a short wall to a big ledge. Climb the hairy wall until forced right into a wide crack and finish up this. © Rockfax

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High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 12
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
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Route of Interest
Millennium Falcon

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Forest Moon Buttress)

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