Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Capitol Climb* HS 4a

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[Kevin Gibbs, Mark Readman and Vince Norris at Capitol Climb - Roaches Upper, 3 kb]20m. A worthwhile climb. Get into the hanging groove and exit right below the overhang to reach a short crack that leads to ledges. Climb the face above, finishing up a short crack. © ROCKFAX
FA. R Handley 1954

Ticklists: Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS.

Photo: Kevin Gibbs, Mark Readman and Vince Norris at Capitol Climb - Roaches Upper © Jeremy Wilton
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 189 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Couldn't convince myself to go round the corner on the first attempt, so climbed down, rechecked the book to make sure we had the line right, and climbed it again. Much scarier than I usually find an HS!
cameron_hall - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Lina Arthur

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/14

Rory Bascombe - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14 with Ben clarke

wow, felt scary, must come back to lead.
Tiinster - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Lee

HS?? at the height of 5ft 3, I don't think so, this was nails, backed off after realising I had an audience of around 10 people who were waiting for me to take a swing. Not strong enough or tall enough, maybe another time when I have grown! ;-)
staceyjg - 2nd dnf - 09/Mar/14 with John Lewis, Chris Gardner

csd23 - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Richard Dodds

dantheoptimist - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Ralph, Ben Sparkes

bsparky - 2nd - 21/Feb/14 with Daniel Peters, Ralph Ranford

Managed to get a lot of rope drag when one of the ropes got stuck in a crack (despite extending beneath the overhang/corner). A really great climb and one you've just got to go for. Upper section is easy but very pleasant.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 05/Sep/13 with Richard Bower

Hidden - 2nd dog - 10/Aug/13

Andy lead this really well
Double Knee Bar - 2nd rpt - 24/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13

Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with John S, Rich A

JDSwain - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Paul Hyland

Nice moves at the overhang.
knighty - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Lee Cammann

One move wonder. Great climbing around the overhang, straightforward from there up.
SuperLee1985 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with chris knight

Finally got up this on the fourth attempt. Richard didn't manage the crux so I stripped the gear on abseil.
Blisco - Lead - 07/Jul/13 with Richard Beckett

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13

A real gem of a climb and worth doing and worth a star. Good moves throughout, moving around the nose is awkward but not to bad.
matthomas79 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13 with Tala M

Tala M - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Matt Thomas

theandthem - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Sally

Hidden - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

I think a hold has broken off...
Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Khalid

khalidq - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Dan Vajzovic

Quick climb on our lunch break
parker236 - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Peter Parker

RichyBOYY - Lead - 22/May/12 with Will Caesar

Will Caesar - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Ric Elliott

tiga271 - Lead - 12/May/12 with Dave

jhsp - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

Will Caesar - Lead O/S - 2012 with Rob Caesar

Hidden - 2012

This is about the third or fourth time I've tried and failed to get up this, though I might have got marginally further this time.
Blisco - Lead dnf - 15/Nov/11 with Khalid Qaswari

Putting things to rights after not even getting started on this last year.
treg - Lead RP - 01/Oct/11 with Beka

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/11

Rob Laird - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/11

On a single there was quite a lot of rope drag. Awesome climb though!
Wil.Hooke - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Olly

sputnik - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Awesome route, needs more than one star.
valentinesbabe - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Matt Jones

fun intro to overhangs, well worth the distress
minirollsrule - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Tim Nixon

HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dylan Williams

williamsd79 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Mark Freestone

Pleb - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

simone.lombardi - Lead β - 20/Jun/11 with Mark Ward

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/11

nevets - Lead - Jun/11

My head wasn't working at the first traverse. Got wobbly. Reversed it. Took gear out and climbed down. Must try again when head is working properly!
Andrew Bangs - Lead dnf - 08/May/11

Dave Mahon - 2nd - May/11 with Rob Munday

gingerwolf - Solo rpt - 25/Apr/11

gingerwolf - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Mar/11

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with S.Bennett

Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/11

John Mckeating - 2011

My lead followed by Mark then Kev. Really enjoyed this one.
Peeley.b - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Kev Gibbs, Mark Readman

krikoman - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with 1_Kev Gibbs, Neil Peeley

Double Knee Bar - Lead β - 02/Sep/10

Double Knee Bar - Lead β - 10/Aug/10 with Iain

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

Excellent moves. Look for the flakes in the roof. Things get easy after the big rock-over.
manik - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Toby Knight

gravity - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Manik

SteWatkins - Aug/10

DaNo123 - 2nd - 11/Jul/10 with ian

Bobling - 2nd - 13/Jun/10 with Kevin, Andy

wi11 - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Chris Gee

simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with James West

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with phil biglands

MD - Lead - 15/May/10 with Rob T

climbed with andy good found the flakes in the roof
meridius32 - 07/May/10

Interesting move out under the overhang, boring after that
mullermn - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Ruth, Tom Perrin

PerrinT - 2nd - 01/May/10 with Andy Arbon

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Erica

erica - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with John

Good route, tricky step out onto arete near the start, but unfortunatly the rope jammed, making the top slab pretty tricky! top slab was very enjoyable climbing though.
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Ash Mellor

failure....
ashmellor - 2nd dog - 07/Mar/10 with Dan lane

GF - 2010

benny_m - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Roger Hill

silhouette - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with benny_m

My third lead!
Glennjoe - Lead β - 24/Aug/09 with Nathan

my fourth lead, did well
Double Knee Bar - Lead β - 24/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09

Nice, once you find the flaky holds in the roof (thanks Kev!)
KeithW - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Kev Bowser

Happy Wanderer - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ken T

nathanroberts89 - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with glenn

cooper leek - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09 with crucko

Chris Harding - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Ben Hollands

Ben Hollands - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Chris Harding

Graeme Hammond - Solo O/S - 31/May/09

stevemcg - Lead - 09/May/09 with Liz

stevemcg - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Liz

fizzychewitt - Lead - 09/May/09 with Steve

koopa - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Col Kingshott - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

LeighAdams - Lead - 03/Aug/08 with Eddie Banks

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08

donkster - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/08 with dennis

snakebite - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Darren Sansom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/08

George Bassant - Lead - 07/Jun/08 with Nina/Pam Waud

jcurley - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with John Dickie

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Chris Smith

dprctr - Lead O/S - May/08 with Jens Verhaegh

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Feb/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Good lead!
James Oswald - Lead β - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 2008

Interesting rockover on a heel hook to reach the arete, since there was no way my stumpy arms would have got it! Nice route though, especially the gear-less top slab :)
Caralynh - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with JimmyD

The move right at the start was luckily easier (and less slimy) than it looked. But the final 7m slab was green, tricky, and totally unprotected - scary stuff. Perhaps I was supposed to have walked off left before this!
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/07 with Carmen

Clio's 1st HS lead!
Different Steve - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Clio

Clee - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Steve

David Robinson - Lead - 05/Aug/07

b.hayley - Lead O/S - Jun/07

Matty - 2nd O/S - 26/May/07 with James Cross

davek - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Larson

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - Apr/07 with random

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Michael

Matty - 2nd - 24/Mar/07 with laurence_ev

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2007

RETICENTFISH - TR - 17/Aug/06 with Mike Watkiss

Great fun until above the roof where the rope jammedin the crack. Made the slab much more of a struggle than it needed to be.
Marvino - Lead - 06/Jul/06

flyboy86 - Lead - Jul/06 with Nick (kendogcatchy)

thomasholyoak - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with DS

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06

bigglesbutcha - Lead - 03/Jun/06 with Clive Ceney

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/06

Jez - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/05

deanroberts - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/05

Rampikino - Lead - 29/Jul/05 with Claire Rollason

Actually "the arete" but UKC is being a twat
Rampikino - Lead - 29/Jul/05 with Claire Rollason

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jul/05

Sankey - Jan/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/04

Had climbed this before as a beginner.
Irk the Purist - Lead β - 08/Aug/04 with Rachel Scott

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/04 with Shona D'arcy

Jonny M - Lead O/S - Feb/04 with Rich Cole

Hidden - 2nd - 2004

kendogcatchy - TR - Aug/03 with stu bosley

mark s - Solo - 2003

Batty - Lead O/S - 04/May/02

kato'sdad - Lead - 2002 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - 2nd O/S - 2002 with Jon Berry

Hedley - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/01 with Steve Runnacles

tlr - Lead - 2000

antroy - Lead - 15/May/99

Martyn - 1999

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 1998

David Smith - Lead - 29/Oct/97 with Margaret Smith

Hidden - Solo - 12/Oct/97

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/95 with Alan

A Crook - 2nd - 22/Apr/95 with Pat Boothman

ColinD - Solo - 14/Apr/95

brady - 2nd - 1995 with John Cameron

ColinD - Lead - 17/Jul/94

Iain Thow - Lead - 09/May/94 with Pram Singh

Nigel Coe - Lead - May/93 with Scott Titt

stokienomad - Lead - 22/May/92

RichardMc - Lead - 09/May/92

nai - Lead - 1992

adi bryant - 2nd - 06/Oct/91 with Clive

Roget - Solo O/S - 06/Sep/90

Raggar - Lead - 02/Apr/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

babymoac - Lead - 03/Sep/89 with Sid

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/Mar/87 with Martin Cash

Billg - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/85 with Dave Gregory

Mark Kemball - Solo - 13/Mar/84

Simon2005 - Lead O/S - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/83

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980

Hidden - Lead - 1980

JohnHutch - Lead - 18/Nov/78 with DT

JohnHutch - Lead - 17/Sep/77

rogerskews - Lead - 1976

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jul/71 with Debbie Wilkinson

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/68

Pat Higson
oldmanofmow - Lead - 1961

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jackmccormack, alp79, Hidden, Hewin, Hidden, Chalky Cat, WILLS, hallex

Voting
Total votes cast 68
hard VS0 of 24
VS1 of 24
easy VS0 of 24
hard HS11 of 24
HS11 of 24
easy HS1 of 24
hard S0 of 24
S0 of 24
easy S0 of 24
hard 4b1 of 24
4b1 of 24
easy 4b16 of 24
hard 4a1 of 24
4a5 of 24
easy 4a0 of 24
hard 3c0 of 24
3c0 of 24
easy 3c0 of 24
3 Stars1 of 20
2 Stars10 of 20
1 Star9 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Soloed9 of 189 (4.8%)
Lead114 of 189 (60.3%)
Followed48 of 189 (25.4%)
Toproped2 of 189 (1.1%)
Unknown16 of 189 (8.5%)

'Climbed'85 of 189 (45.0%)
clean O/S86 of 189 (45.5%)
clean β8 of 189 (4.2%)
clean rpt3 of 189 (1.6%)
clean RP2 of 189 (1.1%)
dogged2 of 189 (1.1%)
dnf3 of 189 (1.6%)