Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Aqua VS 4b

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Public Enemy Number One >>
[the crux  VS4b, 3 kb]12m. Climb the roof crack strenuously the amble to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1954

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, My Favourite Climbs Diff - HVS.

Photo: the crux VS4b © Paul Hy
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 279 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Prof. Outdoors - 2nd - 26/Jul/14 with Wendy

soph - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

8/31. Good warm-up for the second day.
Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

8 on Staffordshire nose. 6:20am.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Nick

BB95 - Lead - 09/Jul/14 with Jay Ibrahim

daveclarke5 - 2nd - 06/Jul/14 with Stephen

Fun moves getting past the roof. Easy but well run out in the upper section.
mapperley samurai - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Michael H

Michael-H - 2nd - 05/Jul/14 with mapperley samurai

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

cameron_hall - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Lina Arthur

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/14

Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 27/May/14 with Ceara

Ceara - 2nd O/S - 27/May/14 with Andrew

morganator - Solo - 26/May/14 with Sophie Whyte

Paul Hy - Lead rpt - 05/May/14 with Dave W

One move wonder once I'd stopped bothering to look for gear
mattgrange - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

morganator - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Sophie Whyte

soph - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with jon morgan

Bit of a one-move-wonder. Nice enough for that move, but a path after. Soft for the grade.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Ross Davidson

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Apr/14

warrygallace - 2nd - Apr/14 with ben edwin

Just climbed over the overhang then lowered off (after this it's just a scramble so didn't bother to continue)
TJ Mather - TR dnf - 16/Mar/14

Not done this for over 10 years. Really nice route.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 11/Mar/14 with Dan Chadfield

DanChad - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/14 with Chris Murray

Climbster - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - 2nd β - 30/Aug/13 with Matt

Paul Hy - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/13 with Dave E

wishicud climbHVS - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Big Fat Dan

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/13

Getting over the initial overhang with (in my case) 2 OK wires was good fun and suprisingly easy in the end, the rest of the climb sadly is without any interest though.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Mike

Fell off at roof trying to go straight up, got back on and layed back left
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Peter

Good route with the crux at the first few meters. Found this route slightly overgrown with heather and moss making foot placement a little tricky. Overall a good enjoyable route.
Matt300 - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13

asmith37 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/13

mky77 - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Jul/13

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

Katya - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Laura Goodare

Charlie Staincliffe - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Stuart Myatt

the lower bit was green as well as the crux!
Paul Hy - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/13 with Damon H

Ben Hollands - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13

Tough move over the roof. Place a number 3 Rock sideways in the small gully in the top right corner below the roof for the only decent placement. You wont need gear after the roof...just as well as there isnt much
Ben Taylor 1989 - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Alex wright

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Was quite wet and green, made the crack rather unpleasant "all a bit gynacological" as Paul said.
AlexxelA - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Thomas Brereton, Paul Deane

Psych - Lead O/S - Sep/12

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Mark H

Adrianw - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Natalie Wilson

Bede - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Mark Cunnington

MarkCunnington - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Adam Baker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12

Davey569 - TR O/S - 17/Jun/12

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 30/May/12 with Sean

swhitley - 2nd - 29/May/12 with gingerwolf

Laura-lou - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Toaf

Have waited a long time to lead this climb, having backed off it a number of times before, well chuffed.
Fiskavaig - Lead - 27/May/12 with Nic P

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/12

RichyBOYY - Lead - 22/May/12 with Will Caesar

Will Caesar - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Ric Elliott

My first Joe Brown Route really pleased!
paulharmer - 2nd - 21/May/12 with Vernon Bayliss

Steve J P - 2nd - 20/May/12 with BW

Bernie Wylde - Lead - 20/May/12 with sp

terri mc - Lead O/S - 17/May/12 with Andy Shardlow

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Jonboy

saalty - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Andy S, Jim

Foggy, cold, dirty and a bit damp. Felt hard but how much was the conditions? Off East to escape the fog.
harold walmsley - 2nd rpt - 15/Mar/12 with Colin Struthers

Didn't put cam in over-head so very bold move, great fun!
Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Robin Wilson

robinmuzette - 2nd - 15/Jan/12 with Ross Cooper

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Solo - 2012

Daniel Heath - TR O/S - 15/Oct/11

Hixmclix - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/11 with tim price

One 4b move with overhead gear - HS, surely?
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Simon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

hotfeet - Lead - 06/Aug/11 with Mac

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11

littleluke - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

Nice start to the route, but a one move wonder really. Exposed top section but very easy moves.
valentinesbabe - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Matt Jones

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Mike R, Ian

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11

claregardiner - 2nd - 29/Apr/11

richyg - 28/Apr/11

mcglenr25 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Kirsty Brown

Smithy Smith - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/11

Kirsty810202 - 2nd rpt - 27/Apr/11 with Ryan McGlen

matty123 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Bob Oldale

Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11

iwebster59017 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with kirsty Brown

Kirsty810202 - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Ian Webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11

Andy DJ - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with CHASETRAILBUILDA

CHASETRAILBUILDA - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with andy

Rock Zigger - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11

Bit of a one move wonder, but very nice.
JohnHutch - Lead - 07/Mar/11 with Frank R, Nik H

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 07/Mar/11

Pete Nugent - 2nd - 03/Mar/11 with Mike Nugent (LC&CC)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

John Mckeating - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Amazing roof. Took a while to work out what I was going to do. A second cam gave me the confidence to do it. No gear and lots of vegetation on the top made it an exciting finish.
Emma-Louise Anderson - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/10 with Mel Brown

Easy climbing but little pro on upper section
mick1jones - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Ralph Atkinson

Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Richard Lines

Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with andy gibb

good move at roof :)
Tom Redmond - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Joshua Willett

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/10

j4kub - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with claire gibson

My first attempt at a Joe Brown route ended in failure kept falling at the crux "i'll be back"
paulharmer - 2nd dnf - 29/Jul/10 with Vernon Bayliss

Hidden - 2nd β - 17/Jul/10

Pete Randall - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Charles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10

Martin Cleaver - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

hazeysunshine - 2nd - 11/Jun/10 with Dave

Great climb, really enjoyable first move over the overhang - i.e. not too hard!
mmalbon - TR - 31/May/10 with Dave Lowndes, Mick

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Dave Watson

Purple Roni - Lead - 15/May/10 with Roger F

ianslade - Lead β - May/10 with Tim Price

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

dishevelled - 2nd O/S - Apr/10

keith leonard - 2010

GF - 2010

R77 - TR - 2010 with Mark

ozbaker - Lead O/S - 2010

SHCS - 2010

Cat Hendrie - Lead O/S - 2010

toasted - 2nd - 25/Oct/09 with Simon Whitehead

simonw1 - Lead O/S - Oct/09 with Allan Watson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/09

dja - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/09 with Andy Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/09

cooper leek - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/09 with dave nw

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/09

Jon Dittman - Solo - 28/Jun/09

jcurley - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Mike Buddle

stump - Jun/09

Richard_D - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09

DanT - Lead dog - 30/May/09 with Hana White, Junaid White

Mr. K - Lead dnf - 23/May/09 with Bryn Wood

donkster - Lead rpt - 13/May/09 with ben

cooper leek - 2nd rpt - 13/May/09 with donk

stevemcg - Lead - 10/May/09 with Liz

fizzychewitt - 2nd - 10/May/09 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 09/May/09 with Alan

danoflynn - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Cat Black

catblack - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Dan O'Flynn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09

Hidden - 2009

DanT - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Olly Creedy

ollycreedy - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Dan Towns

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Aug/08

After top roping to work it out, Mick lead it very easily and me and Simon seconded reasonably easily.
mmalbon - 2nd - 03/Aug/08 with Mick and Simon

simonfife - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/08 with ali

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

FrankW - Lead rpt - 04/Nov/07 with Colin Adams

Managed it at last, having backed off several times before. Quite easy once I'd summoned up the nerve not to put gear in the best handhold! Finished up the tower on the left, which was quite exciting too.
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/07 with Carmen

excelleny route-a case of balance/technique rather than brute force.
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/07 with Bob/Nic

Lovley climb apart from the ants!
RETICENTFISH - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with GRAY

Not a good route.
Stig - 2nd O/S - 29/May/07 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

FrankW - Lead rpt - 03/Feb/07 with Laura

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/06

Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/06

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/06 with Ute Wegenhoff, Mark Hazell

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

Hard move at 3M then v.v. easy.
epic ed - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Ben

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 04/Jun/06

Marvino - Lead - 25/Apr/06 with Darren

davidwright - Lead rpt - 20/Jan/06

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

Allan Young - 2nd rpt - 02/Jul/05 with Jonathan Bode-Hey

One move wonder.
Irk the Purist - Lead O/S - 2005 with Rachel Scott

Hidden - TR - 31/Dec/04

donkster - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with trigg

Stevie_R - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/04 with rod

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/04

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Nice juggy moves through overhang
Sankey - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/03 with Rich

Chesh - Lead - Jun/03 with Sparky

Neil Curtis - Lead rpt - 10/May/03 with Pete Barnes

Allan Young - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/03 with Peter Taylor

Digger - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/03 with James Latham

Alaric - TR O/S - 05/Apr/03 with Pierre Maxted

SteveM - Lead - 16/Mar/03

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/03 with Steve Puttick

beermonkey - Lead - Mar/03 with mike

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 2003

mark s - Solo - 2003

Danhan - 2nd - 19/Oct/02

Hidden - Solo - 06/Oct/02

five - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/02

D Berry - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/02 with Claire Berry

Steve Vincent - 2nd - 29/Jun/02

Steve Vincent - 2nd - 29/Jun/02

Steve Vincent - 2nd - 29/Jun/02

Mark Salter - 2nd - 21/Apr/02 with Chris Shorrock

FrankW - 2nd rpt - 20/Apr/02 with Joe

platt2000 - Lead - 2002

Hedley - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/01 with Steve Runnacles

andygreen - 2nd - 30/Jun/01

Retroman3 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/01 with Yan

Retroman3 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/01 with Yan

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/01

Forshaw
adamwesthead - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/00 with Taylor

Nigel Coe - Lead - 10/Jun/00 with Tim Dunsby

Hidden - TR - 30/Apr/00

FrankW - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/00 with Jane T

rlrs - Lead - 2000

Start crux has "pro or hold" choice With Ian Grimsey
Steve Pardoe - 2nd - 17/Jul/99 with Youarsey / NWF Posse (uk.rec.climbing)

antroy - Lead - 15/May/99

Martyn - 1999

petekeron - Lead O/S - 1999

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Nov/98

craig h - Solo O/S - 08/Oct/98 with Jamie Lillieman

Howard J - 2nd - 11/Aug/98 with Aidan Raftery

orb - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with ?

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/98

cem - Lead O/S - Mar/98 with Paul Richardson

Hidden - Solo - 12/Oct/97

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/97

32C. Rock too hot to touch. Could fry an egg.
Phil West - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/97 with David Atherton

chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Jon Stevens

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - May/97 with Richard Bower

BruceW - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

smudge - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/96 with Alex

Ian Archer - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/96 with Danny Hale

Tony Buckley - Jul/96

EddieA - Lead O/S - 04/May/96 with NCMC

five - Lead O/S - May/96

brady - 2nd - 1996 with John Cameron

michael burrows - Solo - 27/Jun/95

Yourlead - 2nd - 11/Jun/95 with Graham Penny

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/95 with Debbie Wilkinson

Duncan Bourne - Solo rpt - 02/Apr/95

nai - Solo - 1995

Hidden - Solo rpt - 1995

malc - Lead - 17/Sep/94

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/94

stokienomad - Lead - 12/Jul/94

Howard J - 15/Jun/94

SimonN - Lead - May/94

andrew300169 - Solo - 30/May/93 with Pom

andrew300169 - Solo - 16/Apr/93

SimonN - Solo - 24/Jun/92

andrew300169 - Solo - 18/Jun/92 with Tim Woz

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - Jun/92 with Steve Jones

adi bryant - 2nd - 06/Oct/91 with Clive

ChrisJD - Solo - 26/Aug/90

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/90

Roget - Solo O/S - 03/May/90

Raggar - Lead - 02/Apr/90

OMSKB - Lead - Mar/90 with Dad

andrew300169 - 1990

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/89

Iain Thow - Lead - 28/Jun/88 with Bob Lister

ChrisJD - Solo - 08/Jun/88

tlr - TR - Jun/88 with Fin and Nick

SPD224 - Lead - Jun/88

Nigel Bond - Lead - 31/Jan/82 with Charlie Leverton

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1981

leland stamper - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/79

rogerskews - 1976

mikej - Solo - 03/May/70 with E

Pete Williams tried this for weeks before getting over the overhang and getting me to second him. A pointless climb, difficult start and then nothing.
oldmanofmow - 2nd - 1960

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lobsbelow, SuperLee1985, rich.mike, hapymike, WILLS

Voting
Total votes cast 177
hard HVS0 of 64
HVS0 of 64
easy HVS0 of 64
hard VS2 of 64
VS12 of 64
easy VS38 of 64
hard HS12 of 64
HS0 of 64
easy HS0 of 64
hard 4c0 of 58
4c0 of 58
easy 4c5 of 58
hard 4b2 of 58
4b42 of 58
easy 4b8 of 58
hard 4a1 of 58
4a0 of 58
easy 4a0 of 58
3 Stars0 of 55
2 Stars4 of 55
1 Star34 of 55
0 Stars17 of 55
Bag of .....0 of 55
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed24 of 279 (8.6%)
Lead143 of 279 (51.3%)
Followed82 of 279 (29.4%)
Toproped9 of 279 (3.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 279 (0.4%)
Unknown20 of 279 (7.2%)

'Climbed'120 of 279 (43.0%)
clean O/S125 of 279 (44.8%)
clean β5 of 279 (1.8%)
clean rpt23 of 279 (8.2%)
clean RP1 of 279 (0.4%)
dogged2 of 279 (0.7%)
dnf3 of 279 (1.1%)