Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Aqua VS 4b

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Public Enemy Number One >>
[the crux  VS4b, 3 kb]12m. Climb the roof crack strenuously the amble to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1954

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS.

Photo: the crux VS4b © Paul Hy
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 229 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Ben Hollands - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13

Hidden - 2013

Was quite wet and green, made the crack rather unpleasant "all a bit gynacological" as Paul said.
AlexxelA - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Thomas Brereton, Paul Deane

Psych - Lead O/S - Sep/12

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Mark H

Adrianw - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Natalie Wilson

Bede - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Mark Cunnington

MarkCunnington - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Adam Baker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12

Davey569 - TR O/S - 17/Jun/12

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 30/May/12 with Sean

swhitley - 2nd - 29/May/12 with gingerwolf

Laura-lou - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Toaf

Have waited a long time to lead this climb, having backed off it a number of times before, well chuffed.
Fiskavaig - Lead - 27/May/12 with Nic P

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/12

RichyBOYY - Lead - 22/May/12 with Will Caesar

Will Caesar - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with Ric Elliott

My first Joe Brown Route really pleased!
paulharmer - 2nd - 21/May/12 with Vernon Bayliss

Steve J P - 2nd - 20/May/12 with BW

Bernie Wylde - Lead - 20/May/12 with sp

terri mc - Lead O/S - 17/May/12 with Andy Shardlow

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Jonboy

saalty - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Andy S, Jim

Foggy, cold, dirty and a bit damp. Felt hard but how much was the conditions? Off East to escape the fog.
harold walmsley - 2nd rpt - 15/Mar/12 with Colin Struthers

Didn't put cam in over-head so very bold move, great fun!
Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Robin Wilson

robinmuzette - 2nd - 15/Jan/12 with Ross Cooper

Hidden - 2012

leland stamper - 2012

Daniel Heath - TR O/S - 15/Oct/11

Hixmclix - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/11 with tim price

One 4b move with overhead gear - HS, surely?
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Simon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

hotfeet - Lead - 06/Aug/11 with Mac

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11

littleluke - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

Nice start to the route, but a one move wonder really. Exposed top section but very easy moves.
valentinesbabe - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Matt Jones

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Mike R, Ian

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11

claregardiner - 2nd - 29/Apr/11

richyg - 28/Apr/11

mcglenr25 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Kirsty Brown

Smithy Smith - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/11

Kirsty810202 - 2nd rpt - 27/Apr/11 with Ryan McGlen

matty123 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Bob Oldale

Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11

iwebster59017 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with kirsty Brown

Kirsty810202 - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Ian Webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11

Andy DJ - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with CHASETRAILBUILDA

CHASETRAILBUILDA - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with andy

Rock Zigger - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11

Bit of a one move wonder, but very nice.
JohnHutch - Lead - 07/Mar/11 with Frank R, Nik H

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 07/Mar/11

Pete Nugent - 2nd - 03/Mar/11 with Mike Nugent (LC&CC)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

John Mckeating - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Amazing roof. Took a while to work out what I was going to do. A second cam gave me the confidence to do it. No gear and lots of vegetation on the top made it an exciting finish.
Emma-Louise Anderson - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/10 with Mel Brown

Easy climbing but little pro on upper section
mick1jones - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Ralph Atkinson

Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Richard Lines

Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with andy gibb

good move at roof :)
Tom Redmond - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Joshua Willett

Joshua Willett - 2nd - 11/Aug/10 with Tom Redmond

j4kub - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with claire gibson

My first attempt at a Joe Brown route ended in failure kept falling at the crux "i'll be back"
paulharmer - 2nd dnf - 29/Jul/10 with Vernon Bayliss

Hidden - 2nd β - 17/Jul/10

Pete Randall - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Charles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10

Martin Cleaver - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

hazeysunshine - 2nd - 11/Jun/10 with Dave

Great climb, really enjoyable first move over the overhang - i.e. not too hard!
mmalbon - TR - 31/May/10 with Dave Lowndes, Mick

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Dave Watson

Purple Roni - Lead - 15/May/10 with Roger F

ianslade - Lead β - May/10 with Tim Price

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

dishevelled - 2nd O/S - Apr/10

keith leonard - 2010

GF - 2010

R77 - TR - 2010 with Mark

ozbaker - Lead O/S - 2010

SHCS - 2010

Cat Hendrie - Lead O/S - 2010

toasted - 2nd - 25/Oct/09 with Simon Whitehead

simonw1 - Lead O/S - Oct/09 with Allan Watson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/09

dja - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/09 with Andy Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/09

cooper leek - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/09 with dave nw

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/09

Jon Dittman - Solo - 28/Jun/09

jcurley - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Mike Buddle

stump - Jun/09

Richard_D - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09

DanT - Lead dog - 30/May/09 with Hana White, Junaid White

Mr. K - Lead dnf - 23/May/09 with Bryn Wood

donkster - Lead rpt - 13/May/09 with ben

cooper leek - 2nd rpt - 13/May/09 with donk

stevemcg - Lead - 10/May/09 with Liz

fizzychewitt - 2nd - 10/May/09 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 09/May/09 with Al Smith

danoflynn - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Cat Black

catblack - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Dan O'Flynn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09

Hidden - 2009

DanT - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Olly Creedy

ollycreedy - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Dan Towns

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Aug/08

After top roping to work it out, Mick lead it very easily and me and Simon seconded reasonably easily.
mmalbon - 2nd - 03/Aug/08 with Mick and Simon

simonfife - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/08 with ali

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

FrankW - Lead rpt - 04/Nov/07 with Colin Adams

Managed it at last, having backed off several times before. Quite easy once I'd summoned up the nerve not to put gear in the best handhold! Finished up the tower on the left, which was quite exciting too.
Toreador - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/07 with Carmen

excelleny route-a case of balance/technique rather than brute force.
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/07 with Bob/Nic

Lovley climb apart from the ants!
RETICENTFISH - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with GRAY

Not a good route.
Stig - 2nd O/S - 29/May/07 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

FrankW - Lead rpt - 03/Feb/07 with Laura

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/06

Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/06

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/06 with Ute Wegenhoff, Mark Hazell

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

Hard move at 3M then v.v. easy.
epic ed - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Ben

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 04/Jun/06

Marvino - Lead - 25/Apr/06 with Darren

davidwright - Lead rpt - 20/Jan/06

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

Allan Young - 2nd rpt - 02/Jul/05 with Jonathan Bode-Hey

One move wonder.
Eric the Red - Lead O/S - 2005 with Rachel Scott

Hidden - TR - 31/Dec/04

donkster - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with trigg

Stevie_R - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/04 with rod

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/04

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Nice juggy moves through overhang
Sankey - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/03 with Rich

Chesh - Lead - Jun/03 with Sparky

Neil Curtis - Lead rpt - 10/May/03 with Pete Barnes

Allan Young - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/03 with Peter Taylor

Digger - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/03 with James Latham

Alaric - TR O/S - 05/Apr/03 with Pierre Maxted

SteveM - Lead - 16/Mar/03

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/03 with Steve Puttick

beermonkey - Lead - Mar/03 with mike

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 2003

mark s - Solo - 2003

Danhan - 2nd - 19/Oct/02

Hidden - Solo - 06/Oct/02

five - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/02

D Berry - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/02 with Claire Berry

Steve Vincent - 2nd - 29/Jun/02

Steve Vincent - 2nd - 29/Jun/02

Steve Vincent - 2nd - 29/Jun/02

Mark Salter - 2nd - 21/Apr/02 with Chris Shorrock

FrankW - 2nd rpt - 20/Apr/02 with Joe

platt2000 - Lead - 2002

Hedley - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/01 with Steve Runnacles

andygreen - 2nd - 30/Jun/01

Retroman3 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/01 with Yan

Retroman3 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/01 with Yan

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/01

Forshaw
adamwesthead - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/00 with Taylor

Hidden - TR - 30/Apr/00

FrankW - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/00 with Jane T

rlrs - Lead - 2000

Start crux has "pro or hold" choice With Ian Grimsey
Steve Pardoe - 2nd - 17/Jul/99 with Youarsey / NWF Posse (uk.rec.climbing)

antroy - Lead - 15/May/99

Martyn - 1999

petekeron - Lead O/S - 1999

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Nov/98

craig h - Solo O/S - 08/Oct/98 with Jamie Lillieman

Howard J - 2nd - 11/Aug/98 with Aidan Raftery

orb - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with ?

Good route, easy for the grade! Gordon led
wadey1973 - 2nd - 03/May/98 with Dave Hilton, Gordon Hutchinson

cem - Lead O/S - Mar/98 with Paul Richardson

Hidden - Solo - 12/Oct/97

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - 17/Aug/97 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/97

32°C. Rock too hot to touch. Could fry an egg.
Phil West - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/97 with David Atherton

chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Jon Stevens

BruceW - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

smudge - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/96 with Alex

Ian Archer - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/96 with Danny Hale

Tony Buckley - Jul/96

five - Lead O/S - May/96

brady - 2nd - 1996 with John Cameron

michael burrows - Solo - 27/Jun/95

Yourlead - 2nd - 11/Jun/95 with Graham Penny

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/95 with Debbie Wilkinson

Duncan Bourne - Solo rpt - 02/Apr/95

nai - Solo - 1995

Hidden - Solo rpt - 1995

malc - Lead - 17/Sep/94

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/94

Howard J - 15/Jun/94

SimonN - Lead - May/94

andrew300169 - Solo - 30/May/93 with Pom

andrew300169 - Solo - 16/Apr/93

SimonN - 1993

andrew300169 - Solo - 18/Jun/92 with Tim Woz

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - Jun/92 with Steve Jones

adi bryant - 2nd - 06/Oct/91 with Clive

ChrisJD - Solo - 26/Aug/90

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/90

Roget - Solo O/S - 03/May/90

Raggar - Lead - 02/Apr/90

OMSKB - Lead - Mar/90 with Dad

andrew300169 - 1990

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/89

Iain Thow - Lead - 28/Jun/88 with Bob Lister

ChrisJD - Solo - 08/Jun/88

tlr - TR - Jun/88 with Fin and Nick

SPD224 - Lead - Jun/88

Nigel Bond - Lead - 31/Jan/82 with Charlie Leverton

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1981

rogerskews - 1976

Pete Williams tried this for weeks before getting over the overhang and getting me to second him. A pointless climb, difficult start and then nothing.
oldmanofmow - 2nd - 1960

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
rich.mike, angry pirate, hapymike, WILLS

Voting
Total votes cast 157
hard HVS0 of 56
HVS0 of 56
easy HVS0 of 56
hard VS2 of 56
VS9 of 56
easy VS33 of 56
hard HS12 of 56
HS0 of 56
easy HS0 of 56
hard 4c0 of 51
4c0 of 51
easy 4c5 of 51
hard 4b2 of 51
4b35 of 51
easy 4b8 of 51
hard 4a1 of 51
4a0 of 51
easy 4a0 of 51
3 Stars0 of 50
2 Stars3 of 50
1 Star31 of 50
0 Stars16 of 50
Bag of .....0 of 50
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed19 of 229 (8.3%)
Lead116 of 229 (50.7%)
Followed66 of 229 (28.8%)
Toproped8 of 229 (3.5%)
Unknown20 of 229 (8.7%)

'Climbed'103 of 229 (45.0%)
clean O/S102 of 229 (44.5%)
clean β3 of 229 (1.3%)
clean rpt17 of 229 (7.4%)
clean RP1 of 229 (0.4%)
dogged1 of 229 (0.4%)
dnf2 of 229 (0.9%)