18m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A mini-expedition, devious and with some excellent climbing. 1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base of a short ramp. Exit rightwards from the top of this to join Black and Tans which is followed to its stance. 2) 4b, 6m. Climb out left then up the short rib to a small stance. Pull onto the right edge of the wall above and traverse left (gripping) to climb the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Guilliard, John Yates (alts) 1970

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Days of the Week.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
FlavioL1989 11/Oct Lead O/S
Dan724 21/Jun AltLd O/S
dan ely 21/Jun AltLd O/S

bouldery,bold and contrived but good moves

Alex@home 09/Jun Lead O/S

P1 only. Dropped RPs from the ledge so had to finish with no gear above the roof which was interesting...Thought it was quite high in the grade even with gear there due to the start. Very good climbing

The Doctor
robertmichaeladams 26/Apr AltLd

actually pretty good, ace rock over on pitch one, two bits of gear on the last pitch

Tim Rodgers 26/Apr AltLd
theomoore 12/Jul/14 AltLd

took the line described in the BMC guide. the traverse of the final pitch was run out and a fall would've meant a massive swing. e3 5c. led p1 and p3.

jimmatthews 30/May/14 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

chris687 30/May/14 AltLd O/S

1st pitch

switch 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Great first pitch. I found the top pitch line contrived - seemed more logical to wander up leftwards to the arete. Good position though.

jon22 29/Mar/14 Lead
si witcher
Alistair Corbett 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Not 3 star or 5b... average route at best. i thought first pitch was bold near the top and a little tricky!

Mike W 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
Whitters 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
dannyboy83 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Ramsey Villanueva
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead
tomparrott 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
deejmonkey 05/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hannes B 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
chris fox ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Never E2 5b for someone 5'4" tall !!! very strenuous pull up after the big reach right off the ramp with gear way below under the roof. Shaking like a dog sh*tting razor blades !

Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Tim M 18/Sep/09 Lead rpt
climbergg 18/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
D-Si 24/Jun/09 2nd

3 on the little ledge, cosy

Dominic Bridgwood, Peter Bridgwood
benkelsey ??/2009 2nd RP
IanJackson 17/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Had to get Rob to past me my Rp's up!

sadams 09/Feb/08 AltLd

eric led 2nd pitch

Eric Hildrew
Ian Parnell 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 11/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 03/Feb/07 AltLd
dan gibson 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
climbingrick 01/Mar/06 2nd dog
shark 28/Jan/06 AltLd O/S

May have been a hindsight rather than an onsight -had a distinct feeling of deja-vu at the top of the first pitch ie the move rightwards into Black & Tans with only an rp for protection.

Mike Garton
jamesturnbull ??/2006 -
Billg ??/2006 Lead O/S
Megan Beaumont
datoon 04/Sep/05 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 15/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/03 AltLd
Gus 07/Jun/02 Lead O/S

awesome outing!!

ArnaudG ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
ciaran troup
Hidden 19/Sep/98 Lead
djones66 ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Felt like E25b to me, and I'm 5ft 4". For me, the crux was the thin pull in the groove near the top of pitch 1. Getting over the little roof on pitch 1 turned out to be easy. Best move is at the start of the hanging groove on pitch 2. Big pinch-grip pull-up, with solid gear. Recommended!

Nick Evans
nige ??/1996 2nd
john buckley
Sean Kelly ?/Apr/93 Lead

Easy for the grade.

Pete Carmichael
whispering nic 13/Oct/91 -
slow hand nick
Tony Little 13/Oct/91 AltLd O/S
adi bryant 06/Oct/91 AltLd O/S
Roget 29/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Mike Owen 19/May/87 Lead rpt
Richard Twinning
Simon2005 ??/1984 2nd
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
Bob Higginbotham
Mike Owen 12/Sep/81 Lead O/S
Gavin Peat
Hidden 12/Jun/81 AltLd
Mark Kemball ??/1977 Lead
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set