A mini-expedition, devious and with some excellent climbing. 1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base of a short ramp. Exit rightwards from the top of this to join Black and Tans which is followed to its stance. 2) 4b, 6m. Climb out left then up the short rib to a small stance. Pull onto the right edge of the wall above and traverse left (gripping) to climb the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax
FA. Mick Guilliard, John Yates (alts) 1970
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|dan ely||21/Jun||AltLd O/S||
bouldery,bold and contrived but good moves
P1 only. Dropped RPs from the ledge so had to finish with no gear above the roof which was interesting...Thought it was quite high in the grade even with gear there due to the start. Very good climbing
actually pretty good, ace rock over on pitch one, two bits of gear on the last pitch
took the line described in the BMC guide. the traverse of the final pitch was run out and a fall would've meant a massive swing. e3 5c. led p1 and p3.
Great first pitch. I found the top pitch line contrived - seemed more logical to wander up leftwards to the arete. Good position though.
|Alistair Corbett||31/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
Not 3 star or 5b... average route at best. i thought first pitch was bold near the top and a little tricky!
|Mike W||31/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
|Haydn Jones||01/Sep/12||AltLd O/S||
|Chris Sansum||24/Mar/12||2nd O/S||
|Hannes B||12/Oct/10||Lead O/S||
|chris fox||?/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
Never E2 5b for someone 5'4" tall !!! very strenuous pull up after the big reach right off the ramp with gear way below under the roof. Shaking like a dog sh*tting razor blades !
|Adam Potter||17/Apr/10||Lead O/S|
|Tim M||18/Sep/09||Lead rpt|
3 on the little ledge, cosy
Dominic Bridgwood, Peter Bridgwood
Had to get Rob to past me my Rp's up!
eric led 2nd pitch
|Ian Parnell||15/Sep/07||Lead O/S||
|dan gibson||08/Oct/06||Lead O/S||
May have been a hindsight rather than an onsight -had a distinct feeling of deja-vu at the top of the first pitch ie the move rightwards into Black & Tans with only an rp for protection.
Excellent route. Felt like E25b to me, and I'm 5ft 4". For me, the crux was the thin pull in the groove near the top of pitch 1. Getting over the little roof on pitch 1 turned out to be easy. Best move is at the start of the hanging groove on pitch 2. Big pinch-grip pull-up, with solid gear. Recommended!
Easy for the grade.
slow hand nick
|Tony Little||13/Oct/91||AltLd O/S||
|adi bryant||06/Oct/91||AltLd O/S||
|Mike Owen||19/May/87||Lead rpt||
|Mike Owen||12/Sep/81||Lead O/S||