Rockfax Description
24m. A bit of an eliminate though with good positions, some interesting moves and low in the grade. Start up Hollybush Crack until above the prickly beast then climb the arete on the left passing a tricky overhang to gain the final exposed rib. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Days of the Week, Roaches HVS Challenge.

AndrewP 26/Oct 2nd O/S
HB1 13/Oct Lead
with JS
andy.smythe 12/Oct Lead

I found this quite tough. I may have also broken a vital foothold on the crux of the slab (all I did was stand on it)

JenShelley 27/Sep Lead O/S
with Anne
Dan Vaj 26/Sep 2nd rpt
mark4344 26/Sep Lead O/S
with Dan Vaj
eastonator 13/Sep 2nd O/S
Neal Jobling 13/Sep Lead O/S
with Tracy
StevieLee 13/Sep Lead
Jan.Hrb 30/Aug Lead O/S
James Rigby 28/Jul 2nd O/S

Pushing on the limits of single pitch with a 50m rope! The rain came in making all holds wet! Held a lead fall above the tree aswell!

with Ben Richie
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul 2nd O/S
mariannekhoo 18/Jul Lead O/S

Deserves another star despite being an eliminate - has two or three distinct technical moves above pretty reasonable gear. The 5a is fair and not really a soft touch (Knight's Move is easier!). Finding decent gear for an anchor was the hardest bit - glad I did as Chris took a couple of falls.

Hidden 18/Jul 2nd dog
tom bre 15/Jul 2nd O/S
Dan Vaj 11/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun Lead O/S
guy757 11/Jun -
FlavioL1989 07/Jun 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #15

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd
Martin Dale 30/May 2nd
with Wriggers
NickJH 30/May Lead O/S
with P Stridgen
john lynch 10/May Lead O/S
with Bethan D
Dom Bloomfield 24/Apr 2nd O/S
Morris123 24/Apr Lead O/S
Matt Amos 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Dan Dry
dandry 22/Mar 2nd O/S
with Matt Amos
rob 528 ??/2015 Lead O/S
AlexxelA 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Really good route, felt quite hard but then haven't climed much recently. Quite bold in places. And cracking toe rubber combined with greasy conditions didn't help.

cem 15/Nov/14 Lead rpt

A bit greasy in places.

Kirill 15/Nov/14 2nd rpt

Seconded just about cleanly this time. Hard for the grade.

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 28/Sep/14 2nd
Tomasz Smith 28/Sep/14 Lead
Rafal Malczyk 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S

I followed Ian - easy and pleasant climb.

with Ian Pegg
Katsmiff 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Justyn Philpot
mr random 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Ian Peg
KeenClimber 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker, Matt Kettle
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ben1983 31/Aug/14 2nd
benlatham07 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
chris smith 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A really nice climb, deserves more than 1 star.

MikeLell 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Mark, Fraser
poigol5043 12/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
peaterpan 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Did my first HVS on the summer solstice. Good day

with james
Ella7 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

One hard move between the breaks. Otherwise not too hard, enjoyable despite being eliminate.

Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 18/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Rich A
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead dog
Andrew Abraham 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Sam Riley
PeteWilson 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle ?/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd
MattKettle 06/Apr/14 2nd O/S
DanChad 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 01/Apr/14 Lead

As good as I remember it.

warrygallace ?/Apr/14 Lead
with ben edwin
switch 29/Mar/14 2nd
with John S
jon22 29/Mar/14 Lead
with si witcher
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead rpt
e_t_1990 ?/Nov/13 2nd
lost.arrow 29/Sep/13 Lead
with Emma Veitch
Amber Chaloner 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
ralphio 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. Nice finger jams, then a thin middle section followed but a protectionless run-out on massive jugs at the top.

khalidq 26/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/13 -
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S
rich_hw 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with James
hotfeet 14/Sep/13 Lead
with David Hammond
Hidden 10/Sep/13 -
David Kay 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Jules Lane
Jules Lane 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. 2 or 3 tricky moves, right at my limit, the one on the slab over the overhang very friction - dependent. I was 90% sure I could do them and felt good so went for it. Excellent. I am told it it a fair 5a, not especially 'low in the grade'as per rockfax.

with Mynydd Dave K
davebrox 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Fiona
UnkArl 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lee
Calum Wadsworth 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Steve D, Harrogate club
SPD224 27/Jul/13 2nd
jasonpm 20/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Eddie Webster
leon 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Done properly this time.

Hidden 11/Jul/13 2nd
djones66 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Good fun and well protected in the lower half - excellent gear at the crux, and a comfortable position to place it. But....being so close to Black Velvet takes a bit of the fun out of it, and...there's one wire placement just above the crux, and then there's no gear till you get to the top (unless you step left into Black Velvet). Luckily its easy territory.

with Stve mc D
CharlieMack 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alice
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 10/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Dad
Hardcore Pat 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
claregardiner 15/Sep/12 Lead
Whitters 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd β
Pryan ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Hazel
littleluke 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
SPD224 21/Jul/12 Lead
with Vivian Sherwood
pebbles 12/Jul/12 2nd
with guido
climb the peak 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
whitehouse_rhys 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with ben roe
BRoe 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/12 2nd
Charley Carpenter ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 29/May/12 Lead
gavinpeach 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with Max Pendleton
hellboundblr 20/May/12 Lead
with Richard Savage
bobpilgrem 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Bob/Nic
Charlie Zephyr Booth ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with martin broadhurst
PAJames ??/2012 -
Morris123 05/Nov/11 -
Skell 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
antdav 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

First HVS, either low in the grade or suited to me but didn't find it tough

with Wayne
waynem1985 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
monika paprzycka 24/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead
moberg 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Shortarse.Crowley ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Barry D 14/Jun/11 2nd
with Andy H
Andy Hardy 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Avoided the crux - couldn't work it out :(

Frostie 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Mikael 28/May/11 Lead
jaimer 28/May/11 2nd
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd
Dave Mahon ?/May/11 Lead O/S

straight forward for the grade.

claregardiner 29/Apr/11 Lead
richyg 28/Apr/11 -
chrisbussell 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tim O'Neill
ColinD 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Took a while to commit. Signs of recent breaks on slabby holds, but still good for the grade. 2nd confirmed grade from previous ascents.

Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
NB Pixel 18/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Wicked moves up onto break, and tricky feet starting up slab on the left... Awesome!

with JT
Hidden 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jonas Paulsson 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Robin Dahlberg
rd20 31/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Climbed cleanly up the crack and corner but stupidly went up Black Velvet rather than continuing up the slab - damn

smolders 31/Oct/10 2nd dnf

Finished up the crack in the top section ofBlack Velvet

Emma-Louise Anderson 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Loved this climb. The hollybush crack a the start was tough... It took forever to commit to moving from the groove onto the gearless, hold less slab. When I finally did it was amazing. The top flowed too perfectly to interrupt the pace to place gear.

Hidden 22/Sep/10 2nd rpt
leon 04/Sep/10 Lead

Started off up this route but mistakenly moved left into the crack when I should have moved straight up on the slab. The bit I did was very good.

with Steven Davidson
cem 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Paul Wilkinson
riddle 21/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Jamesb55 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with John Slarke
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ianslade 22/Jun/10 Lead β

Happy Day's, did not know it was HVS at the time :)

with Dave
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
matt.jj 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

A good route, not too pumpy and more thoughtful. The line of the route is not very clear just be careful not to stray left into easy ground.

Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Happy Wanderer 28/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ken T
chrisallan 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
marclloyd77 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Shelby
mattyork2 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tatz45 ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2010 -
donkster 23/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with crooko
rfdl100 26/Sep/09 2nd
PeteH 16/Sep/09 2nd O/S
ndp 15/Sep/09 Lead
ben__day 29/Aug/09 2nd
spacey 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
jandyd05 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd
b.hayley 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with alfredo
Alfredo 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ben H
garywong 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
stvey 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Jay_Kay
Jim Slater 20/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd
mic_b 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
Elsier 03/May/09 2nd
with Ian, Stuart
Barry D 18/Apr/09 Lead
with Chris M
Si dH 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great route and didnt feel eliminate at all to me - climbing up the groove is toally indepedent the crux is close to BlackVelvet but you dont really notice it. I thoguht it was worth at least 2 stars, would be 3 if the Holly Bush wasnt there!

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
paul.valentine 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Adrian Wood
Trobbo 12/Apr/09 2nd
with martin bennett
danm 06/Oct/08 Lead
Jim Slater 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Angus Malcolm
stuckonarock 16/Sep/08 2nd

The holly bush stole my hat!

with Matthew
Kirill 13/Sep/08 2nd dog

only done it with the help of the tight rope

cem 13/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Dave Foster ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Another great climb worth more than one star. Top section very run out, but easy, so take your bold slab head with you.

with Carl
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Dave Lacey 30/Aug/08 Lead
Sankey 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Poor route, awkward moves to gain the meat of the route, which is a couple of reachy moves between breaks, then straightforward

with John + Eddy
Neil Pacey 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Really good varied climbing, some nice technical moves with gear where it counts, deserves at least two star's IMO.

Tanya Savage 16/Feb/08 2nd

hard but excellent

daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
SamStrong 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Greg Kieckhefer
Different Steve 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Clio
Shaw Brown 03/Aug/07 Lead
with David Jones
Duncan Skelton 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Kai Green
twodada 28/Jul/07 2nd
with Kai
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead
Chesh 02/May/07 2nd
with Paul Lestor
Hidden 25/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 25/Apr/07 Lead
Laurence Everitt 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 11/Apr/07 2nd
ungracefulathlete 10/Apr/07 2nd dog

Dogged? i fell off numerous times, as it was PITCH BLACK.... i must get points for that...?

with Tim
Steve Waters, Mynydd 01/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Very good route. Sustained but do-able as a lead.

with Martin Kocsis
sce8 10/Mar/07 Lead dnf
with Masa and Gemma
masa-alpin 10/Mar/07 Lead β

Steve attempted to lead but backed off, so I took over using his gear.

with Steve El, Gemma F
Si01 ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
BallsofBritishSteel 26/Nov/06 2nd
cem 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Pete Atkinson, Rob Truckle
A Crook 04/Nov/06 2nd
Stig 07/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Pete
Hidden 07/Sep/06 Lead
Paul Burgess 29/Jun/06 2nd
with Dan Henderson
goi.ashmore 27/Apr/06 Lead β
with Andy Leavitt
jamesturnbull ??/2006 -
Lawrence Eccles ??/2006 2nd O/S
with A. Crook
orb ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Mojo
Jez 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/05 2nd
maybe_si ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/05 Lead

Had to start up Tech Slab due to traffic on Black and Tans so may have missed the crux, all flet a bit artificial

with Jenny Fones
lost.arrow 11/Apr/05 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Budge 17/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates
Mark Collins 21/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Neil Henson
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
James B 24/Aug/03 -
ASchwirtz 21/Jun/03 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2002 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/01 Lead
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
brady 26/Jun/96 Lead

landed in Holly Bush first time!

with John Cameron
Roget 23/Apr/91 Solo O/S
Raggar 30/Mar/91 2nd
with Steve B
Hidden 01/Aug/90 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
OMSKB ?/Aug/89 Lead
with John Roberts
rogerskews 22/Mar/86 -
with John Blackburn
Richard Weller 22/Sep/85 Lead
with Rory O'Connor
shark 05/Nov/83 Lead O/S

Graded MVS then - my third lead. Until today I thought I had not led HVS until the following spring

with Paul Hempstock
Nigel Bond 19/Feb/83 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, strudles, simon pape, nesbear, SuperLee1985, Hidden, ozbaker, WILLS, Albie, Hidden, silhouette, Steve Waters, Mynydd
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 58
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set