Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Diamond Wednesday* HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Black Velvet
 
Hollybush Crack >>
[Diamond Wednesday. On a Tuesday. Also at http://www.originaltake.com/2011/04/tuesday-19th-april-2011.html, 3 kb]24m. A bit of an eliminate though with good positions, some interesting moves and low in the grade. Start up Hollybush Crack until above the prickly beast then climb the arete on the left passing a tricky overhang to gain the final exposed rib. © ROCKFAX
FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, My Favourite Climbs Diff - HVS.

Photo: Diamond Wednesday. On a Tuesday. Also at http://www.originaltake.com/2011/04/tuesday-19th-april-2011.html © Fidget
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 215 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - 2nd - 28/Sep/14 with Tomasz Smith

Tomasz Smith - Lead - 28/Sep/14 with Mark Stitson

I followed Ian - easy and pleasant climb.
Rafal Malczyk - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Ian Pegg

Katsmiff - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Justyn Philpot

mr random - 2nd - 27/Sep/14 with Ian Peg

KeenClimber - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/14

fuzzysheep01 - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Naomi, Matt Kettle

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14

benlatham07 - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14

A really nice climb, deserves more than 1 star.
chris smith - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14

MikeLell - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Mark, Fraser

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/14

Did my first HVS on the summer solstice. Good day
peaterpan - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with james

One hard move between the breaks. Otherwise not too hard, enjoyable despite being eliminate.
Ellie Fuller - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Ben Tanner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/14

Paul Hy - TR O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Rich A

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jun/14

Andrew Abraham - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Sam Riley

PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Timm Wilson

WillDoyle - Lead - Jun/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/14

DanChad - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Chris Murray

As good as I remember it.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 01/Apr/14 with Dan Chadfield

warrygallace - Lead - Apr/14 with ben edwin

switch - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with John S

jon22 - Lead - 29/Mar/14 with si witcher

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Nov/13

e_t_1990 - 2nd - Nov/13

Amber Chaloner - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Tim Popplestone

Really enjoyed this. Nice finger jams, then a thin middle section followed but a protectionless run-out on massive jugs at the top.
ralphio - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/13

khalidq - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/13 with Ralph Simpson

Hidden - 24/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with James

hotfeet - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with David Hammond

Hidden - 10/Sep/13

David Kay - 2nd - 11/Aug/13 with Jules Lane

Really enjoyed this. 2 or 3 tricky moves, right at my limit, the one on the slab over the overhang very friction - dependent. I was 90% sure I could do them and felt good so went for it. Excellent. I am told it it a fair 5a, not especially 'low in the grade'as per rockfax.
Jules Lane - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Mynydd Dave K

davebrox - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Fiona

UnkArl - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Lee

Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Steve D, Harrogate club

SPD224 - 2nd - 27/Jul/13 with Calum Wadsworth

jasonpm - Lead dog - 20/Jul/13 with Eddie Webster

Done properly this time.
leon - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/13 with Andy Bell

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/13

Good fun and well protected in the lower half - excellent gear at the crux, and a comfortable position to place it. But....being so close to Black Velvet takes a bit of the fun out of it, and...there's one wire placement just above the crux, and then there's no gear till you get to the top (unless you step left into Black Velvet). Luckily its easy territory.
djones66 - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Stve mc D

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Alice

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/12 with Dad

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Chris Vanderz

claregardiner - Lead - 15/Sep/12

Whitters - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Sep/12

Pryan - 2nd - Sep/12 with Hazel

littleluke - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12

SPD224 - Lead - 21/Jul/12 with Vivian Sherwood

pebbles - 2nd - 12/Jul/12 with guido

climb the peak - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12

whitehouse_rhys - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12 with ben roe

BRoe - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12 with whitehouse_rhys, Alex Law

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/12

Charley Carpenter - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with Steph ward

Coel Hellier - Lead - 29/May/12

gavinpeach - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12 with Max Pendleton

hellboundblr - Lead - 20/May/12 with Richard Savage

bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with Bob/Nic

Charlie Zephyr Booth - AltLd O/S - 2012 with martin broadhurst

PAJames - 2012

Morris123 - 05/Nov/11

Skell - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Jules

slacky - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Andes, Gary

First HVS, either low in the grade or suited to me but didn't find it tough
antdav - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Wayne

waynem1985 - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Antony Davies

monika paprzycka - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with Jeremy Axford

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/11

moberg - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11

Shortarse.Crowley - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Barry D - 2nd - 14/Jun/11 with Andy H

Avoided the crux - couldn't work it out :(
999thAndy - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Barry Duckworth

Frostie - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Guy Buckingham

Mikael - Lead - 28/May/11

jaimer - 2nd - 28/May/11 with Mikael Collin

Hidden - 2nd - May/11

straight forward for the grade.
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - May/11

claregardiner - Lead - 29/Apr/11

richyg - 28/Apr/11

chrisbussell - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Tim O'Neill

Took a while to commit. Signs of recent breaks on slabby holds, but still good for the grade. 2nd confirmed grade from previous ascents.
ColinD - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11

Wicked moves up onto break, and tricky feet starting up slab on the left... Awesome!
NB Pixel - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/11 with JT

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11

Jonas Paulsson - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11 with Robin Dahlberg

Climbed cleanly up the crack and corner but stupidly went up Black Velvet rather than continuing up the slab - damn
rd20 - Lead dnf - 31/Oct/10 with Ben Ram, Martin

Finished up the crack in the top section ofBlack Velvet
smolders - 2nd dnf - 31/Oct/10 with Robert D

Loved this climb. The hollybush crack a the start was tough... It took forever to commit to moving from the groove onto the gearless, hold less slab. When I finally did it was amazing. The top flowed too perfectly to interrupt the pace to place gear.
Emma-Louise Anderson - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Mel Brown

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Sep/10

Started off up this route but mistakenly moved left into the crack when I should have moved straight up on the slab. The bit I did was very good.
leon - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Steven Davidson

cem - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/10 with Paul Wilkinson

riddle - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Mike Stephenson

Jamesb55 - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10 with John Slarke

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

riff156 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Alex Falconer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10

Happy Day's, did not know it was HVS at the time :)
ianslade - Lead β - 22/Jun/10 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

A good route, not too pumpy and more thoughtful. The line of the route is not very clear just be careful not to stray left into easy ground.
matt.jj - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Dave Mahon - 2nd O/S - Jun/10 with Matt Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/10

Happy Wanderer - 2nd O/S - 28/May/10 with Ken T

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 09/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

marclloyd77 - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Shelby

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/10 with Alan Royle

tatz45 - Lead O/S - Mar/10

keith leonard - 2010

donkster - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/09 with crooko

rfdl100 - 2nd - 26/Sep/09

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Noel Peatfield

ndp - Lead - 15/Sep/09

ben__day - 2nd - 29/Aug/09 with Martin Parmitter

spacey - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with si barrow

jandyd05 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Julie Anglesea

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Aug/09

b.hayley - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with alfredo

Alfredo - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ben H

garywong - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Mark Shale

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

stvey - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/09 with Jay_Kay

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/09 with Trevor

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/09

mic_b - Lead O/S - 31/May/09

Think we went a bit off-route at the top
Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 30/May/09 with Jenny Andexer

Elsier - 2nd - 03/May/09 with Ian, Stuart

Barry D - Lead - 18/Apr/09 with Chris M

Great route and didnt feel eliminate at all to me - climbing up the groove is toally indepedent the crux is close to BlackVelvet but you dont really notice it. I thoguht it was worth at least 2 stars, would be 3 if the Holly Bush wasnt there!
Si dH - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

paul.valentine - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Adrian Wood

Trobbo - 2nd - 12/Apr/09 with martin bennett

danm - Lead - 06/Oct/08

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Angus

The holly bush stole my hat!
stuckonarock - 2nd - 16/Sep/08 with Matthew

only done it with the help of the tight rope
Kirill - 2nd - 13/Sep/08 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/08 with Kirill Spiridonov

Another great climb worth more than one star. Top section very run out, but easy, so take your bold slab head with you.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Carl

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/08

Dave Lacey - Lead - 30/Aug/08 with jak.kelly

Poor route, awkward moves to gain the meat of the route, which is a couple of reachy moves between breaks, then straightforward
Sankey - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with John + Eddy

Really good varied climbing, some nice technical moves with gear where it counts, deserves at least two star's IMO.
Neil Pacey - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Tanya Savage

hard but excellent
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 16/Feb/08 with Neil Pacey

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

SamStrong - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Greg Kieckhefer

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Clio

Shaw Brown - Lead - 03/Aug/07 with David Jones

Duncan Skelton - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Kai Green

twodada - 2nd - 28/Jul/07 with Kai

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/07

Chesh - 2nd - 02/May/07 with Paul Lestor

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/07

Think I may have traversed round one bit - apparently not the crux.
dpmUK - Lead - 25/Apr/07 with ebygomm

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/07 with Rosie Henstock

Rosie Henstock - 2nd - 11/Apr/07 with Laurence

Dogged? i fell off numerous times, as it was PITCH BLACK.... i must get points for that...?
ungracefulathlete - 2nd dog - 10/Apr/07 with Tim

Very good route. Sustained but do-able as a lead.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/07 with Martin Kocsis

sce8 - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/07 with Masa and Gemma

Si01 - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

BallsofBritishSteel - 2nd - 26/Nov/06

cem - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/06 with Pete Atkinson, Rob Truckle

A Crook - 2nd - 04/Nov/06 with Dom Stockton

Stig - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/06 with Pete

Hidden - Lead - 07/Sep/06

Paul Burgess - 2nd - 29/Jun/06 with Dan Henderson

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 27/Apr/06 with Andy Leavitt

jamesturnbull - 2006

Lawrence Eccles - 2nd O/S - 2006 with A. Crook

orb - Lead O/S - Nov/05 with Mojo

Jez - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/05

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/05

Had to start up Tech Slab due to traffic on Black and Tans so may have missed the crux, all flet a bit artificial
Chris the Tall - Lead - Jun/05 with Jenny Fones

mark s - 2005

Budge - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/04 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

Mark Collins - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/04 with Neil Henson

Coel Hellier - Lead - 2004

James B - 24/Aug/03

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/03 with Mike Todd

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/01

ArnaudG - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Tarquin - 1999

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - May/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

landed in Holly Bush first time!
brady - Lead - 26/Jun/96 with John Cameron

Roget - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/91

Raggar - 2nd - 30/Mar/91 with Steve B

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

OMSKB - Lead - Aug/89 with John Roberts

rogerskews - 22/Mar/86 with John Blackburn

Richard Weller - Lead - 22/Sep/85 with Rory O'Connor

Graded MVS then - my third lead. Until today I thought I had not led HVS until the following spring
shark - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/83 with Paul Hempstock

Nigel Bond - Lead - 19/Feb/83 with Charlie Leverton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, strudles, simon pape, nesbear, SuperLee1985, Hidden, ozbaker, WILLS, Albie, Hidden, silhouette, Steve Waters, Mynydd

Voting
Total votes cast 145
hard E10 of 51
E10 of 51
easy E10 of 51
hard HVS1 of 51
HVS37 of 51
easy HVS12 of 51
hard VS1 of 51
VS0 of 51
easy VS0 of 51
hard 5b0 of 48
5b0 of 48
easy 5b0 of 48
hard 5a5 of 48
5a36 of 48
easy 5a6 of 48
hard 4c1 of 48
4c0 of 48
easy 4c0 of 48
3 Stars2 of 46
2 Stars18 of 46
1 Star25 of 46
0 Stars1 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 215 (0.5%)
Lead123 of 215 (57.2%)
Followed72 of 215 (33.5%)
Toproped1 of 215 (0.5%)
Alt Leads1 of 215 (0.5%)
Unknown17 of 215 (7.9%)

'Climbed'87 of 215 (40.5%)
clean O/S110 of 215 (51.2%)
clean β3 of 215 (1.4%)
clean rpt8 of 215 (3.7%)
dogged3 of 215 (1.4%)
dnf4 of 215 (1.9%)