Middleton's Motion VS 4b
[Schnabs doing battle with the 'obstinate crack' on Middleton's Motion, VS 4b, Roaches, 2 kb]10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. Climb straight to, and through, a short roof crack. Not quite as stiff a problem as you might be expecting. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Schnabs doing battle with the 'obstinate crack' on Middleton's Motion, VS 4b, Roaches © Smudge03
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This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/15

given vs 5a in guide, seems fair
PeteWilson - 2nd O/S - 04/May/15 with Pete B

Hidden - 21/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Jun/12

Sam Knowles - 2nd - 20/Jun/12 with rob

Tricky start and a few tough moves to get established in the crack. Fun top out
Nick Russell - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Steve Shenton

SJS - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/12

Not quite as stiff a problem as you might be expecting, are they taking the piss? Nick couldn't make the move into the crack, I went up and managed it after a lot of thrutching and sketching, then got my head stuck in the crack above lol, enjoyed the top out moves!
Andrew Abraham - Lead β - 01/Apr/11 with Nick Whimster

That was a lot harder than expecting!
nickwhimster - 2nd dog - 01/Apr/11 with Andrew Abraham

Gritstone kisses a plenty from this one!
mol - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Jesse

donkster - 2nd rpt - 22/May/10 with DaveNW

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Sparky!!!3 - Lead - 24/Apr/10

mike lawrence? - Lead - 08/Apr/10 with Colin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/10

mike lawrence? - Lead - 08/Apr/10 with Colin

donkster - Lead rpt - 30/Jan/10 with ben

cooper leek - 2nd dnf - 30/Jan/10 with donk

jcurley - 2nd - 23/May/08 with Mike Buddle

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

The start itself is work the trip up, but after reaching the big grassy ledge, and seeing the rounded crack about, i bottled it, and scuttled left to escape up the end of spectrum. Makes a nice little route in its own right, maybe a HVD (start of Middleton's Motion being the crux)?
doughboy_swiftandsure - Solo dnf - 27/Aug/07

Took me a long time to figure out how to get up into the wide crack then I nearly got stuck going straight through the roof. Jamie nearly went one better by virtually jamming his head in the roof crack.
Marvino - Lead - 05/May/07 with Jamie

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Stig - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/05 with Jonathan + Louise Teale

Hidden - Solo - 2005

donkster - Lead O/S - Sep/04 with devonlads

Gus - Lead - 2002

Roget - Solo O/S - 13/Apr/91

andrew300169 - 1990

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, BenedictIEP, Trina B

Total votes cast 25
hard HVS0 of 9
HVS0 of 9
easy HVS0 of 9
hard VS1 of 9
VS7 of 9
easy VS1 of 9
hard HS0 of 9
HS0 of 9
easy HS0 of 9
hard 4c1 of 9
4c0 of 9
easy 4c5 of 9
hard 4b2 of 9
4b0 of 9
easy 4b1 of 9
hard 4a0 of 9
4a0 of 9
easy 4a0 of 9
3 Stars0 of 7
2 Stars3 of 7
1 Star3 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....1 of 7
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat