Staffordshire > Roaches Skyline >
 
Middleton's Motion VS 4b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Spectrum
 
Rowan Tree Traverse >>
[Schnabs doing battle with the 'obstinate crack' on Middleton's Motion, VS 4b, Roaches, 2 kb]10m. Climb straight to, and through, a short roof crack. Not quite as stiff a problem as you might be expecting. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Schnabs doing battle with the 'obstinate crack' on Middleton's Motion, VS 4b, Roaches © Smudge03
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Jun/12

Sam Knowles - 2nd - 20/Jun/12 with rob

Tricky start and a few tough moves to get established in the crack. Fun top out
Nick Russell - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/12

Not quite as stiff a problem as you might be expecting, are they taking the piss? Nick couldn't make the move into the crack, I went up and managed it after a lot of thrutching and sketching, then got my head stuck in the crack above lol, enjoyed the top out moves!
Andrew Abraham - Lead β - 01/Apr/11 with Nick Whimster

That was a lot harder than expecting!
nickwhimster - 2nd dog - 01/Apr/11 with Andrew Abraham

Gritstone kisses a plenty from this one!
mol - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Jesse

donkster - 2nd rpt - 22/May/10 with DaveNW

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Sparky!!!3 - Lead - 24/Apr/10

mikelawrence aka jonnienomates - Lead - 08/Apr/10 with Colin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/10

Excellent!
mikelawrence aka jonnienomates - Lead - 08/Apr/10 with Colin

donkster - Lead rpt - 30/Jan/10 with ben

cooper leek - 2nd dnf - 30/Jan/10 with donk

jcurley - 2nd - 23/May/08 with Mike Buddle

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

The start itself is work the trip up, but after reaching the big grassy ledge, and seeing the rounded crack about, i bottled it, and scuttled left to escape up the end of spectrum. Makes a nice little route in its own right, maybe a HVD (start of Middleton's Motion being the crux)?
doughboy_swiftandsure - Solo dnf - 27/Aug/07

Took me a long time to figure out how to get up into the wide crack then I nearly got stuck going straight through the roof. Jamie nearly went one better by virtually jamming his head in the roof crack.
Marvino - Lead - 05/May/07 with Jamie

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Stig - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/05 with Jonathan + Louise Teale

mark s - Solo - 2005

donkster - Lead O/S - Sep/04 with devonlads

Roget - Solo O/S - 13/Apr/91

andrew300169 - 1990

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RM199, Hidden, Trina B

Voting
Total votes cast 22
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS0 of 8
easy HVS0 of 8
hard VS1 of 8
VS6 of 8
easy VS1 of 8
hard HS0 of 8
HS0 of 8
easy HS0 of 8
hard 4c0 of 8
4c0 of 8
easy 4c5 of 8
hard 4b2 of 8
4b0 of 8
easy 4b1 of 8
hard 4a0 of 8
4a0 of 8
easy 4a0 of 8
3 Stars0 of 6
2 Stars2 of 6
1 Star3 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....1 of 6
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 25 (12.0%)
Lead12 of 25 (48.0%)
Followed9 of 25 (36.0%)
Unknown1 of 25 (4.0%)

'Climbed'11 of 25 (44.0%)
clean O/S7 of 25 (28.0%)
clean β1 of 25 (4.0%)
clean rpt2 of 25 (8.0%)
dogged2 of 25 (8.0%)
dnf2 of 25 (8.0%)