Shortcomings** E1 5c
[Stretching for the gear..., 3 kb]10m. The flake that runs up the right edge of the buttress is the substance of the route. Reach it with difficulty (hard for everybody and especially so for the short - E2) and sprint up it by quality barn-door layback moves. © ROCKFAX
A potentially very good route. E1 if you can place cams from the ledge, E3 otherwise. 5c if you can reach the undercuts from the ledge, 6a otherwise.
FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge.

Photo: Stretching for the gear... © Ian Milward
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 171 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Done in strange September sun, greasy and quite crimpy in places had me going a little for sure but still a good route.
jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with John Cooper

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/14

TGreen - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Rosie Henstock

A certain amount of pulling me up by the rope was done to gain the underside of the flake
Rosie Henstock - 2nd - 22/Jul/14 with Tom Green

Andrew Abraham - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/14 with Sam Riley, Ceara

lots more practise before I can lead!!!
Ceara - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/14 with Andrew

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Paul Stoke, Andy Stoke

Nice technical moves. A crimp and a low side pull were crucial.
gavinpeach - 2nd O/S - 15/May/14 with Max Pendleton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/14

Not that hard for me at 6'
Cake - Lead - 24/Apr/14 with Matt

theomoore - Lead β - 02/Feb/14

Ed carrigan - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/14

robertmctague - Lead β - 2014

Fantastic technical climbing. Arms felt like they were pulling out of shoulder sockets on stretch up to undercut. Getting up to flake best done with high foot out right and using crimps on face, not too bad that way.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Adele, Dave Wynne-Jones

simonfilson - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/13

Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 23/Nov/13 with George

bwestwood - 2nd - 10/Nov/13 with pete sargeant

J...s - fell off an E1 :-( Not been on E grade grit for .... a number of years so forgotten the dark arts, and this requires the 'how to use a selection of not much to rise up the wall'. Good moves when I sorted it.
philhilo - Lead dog - 26/Oct/13 with Helen E

benny_m - TR O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Su, Ali Brown

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 05/Oct/13 with Nick Barratt

Hidden - TR O/S - 05/Oct/13

mike lawrence? - 2nd - 26/Sep/13 with Ali, luca

i wish i was taller
Ali.B - 2nd - 22/Sep/13 with mikelawrence

As others have said, would be hard for the short. I managed to get a couple of cams in before attempting the crux but was a very tenuous move. I'm 5'8" and coul just reach the undercut part of the flake when rocking over. The top is quite spicy too. Quality route.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13

Karl Wooffindin - 2nd - 26/Aug/13 with Andrew Deacon

aidanb - TR O/S - 18/Aug/13

Jordanh031 - Lead - 27/Jun/13

WillDoyle - 2nd - 24/Jun/13 with Mike

Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with Mike

RichyBOYY - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Pete Wilson, Arthur parker

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jun/13

Tried to lead, couldn't reach the overlap to place gear or get a finger jam. Tried traversing left and placed cam and finger lockers in middle of roof, and rightward traverse back on route. Too short (5'5") so bailed out up safety net. Afterwards top roped, fell off 10 times, finally made the move with a far high right foot. Not something i'll try on lead in a hurry.
MichaelGallimore - TR dog - 27/May/13 with Rob, MikeR

hard work placing the gear for the crux, awesome technical bit of climbing though!
PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Matt Wilson

Hillson - Lead - 27/Feb/13 with Pete Wilson

Hidden - TR dog - 17/Feb/13

admackie - 2013

saffy - 2013

joeflan - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12

If ukc had a category for "Lead - Lanked" I would deserve it
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with ah

Loooong stretch to plug in a cam overhead!
julesmckim - Lead - 06/Oct/12 with dave lewis

pulled on rope, told jack where crimp was. 1st route back since may injury
timmsy - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Neil

Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/12 with Saul

Committing, but worth it
Souljah - Lead - 28/Jul/12 with Andi T

Brian Rodgers - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/12 with Esther Bott

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

Just about managed to reach the crucial gear in before committing to the crux
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12

Ross Barnes - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Neil A

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Ross B

ed woods - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Marshall

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Eddie

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Mar/12

Ky - 2012

northy1983 - Lead - 2012 with david h

long reach for the undercut on the overhang, easy for my ape arms :D
Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/11 with Pete nurse climber

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/11

Tough but nice moves. A weird bit at the top where all the holds face sideways..
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/11 with Jon Stewart

stephenhartley - 2nd - 27/Sep/11 with Burns

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

This route would be both hard to protect and climb if you are much below 6'
Sam W - 24/Jul/11 with Tom Bide

Felt like a hard 6a move to get to the flake for me. 5'7"
richardr - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/11

luckily the crux under the roof stays dry in the rain. Good climbing well worth its two stars, must be much bolder for anyone short!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Richard Williams

clive-greenwood - Lead dog - 21/May/11 with Dave Clarke

OMSKB - TR - 17/May/11 with Richard Winfield

galpinos - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Sam

chrissyboy - 2nd - May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Mikael - Lead - 20/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/11

Pete Graham - Lead - 19/Jan/11 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - Lead - 2011

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 14/Dec/10 with Rich Brammall

donkster - 2nd rpt - 12/Dec/10 with mark

Took a flyer of this trying to place gear for crux move. - ripped out gear and bent a crab - second attempt went much better
Mark Dennison - Lead rpt - 12/Dec/10

nice route but i need new shoes
scotty h - TR dnf - 17/Oct/10 with Matt Reynolds, Alex Maggs

donkster - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/10 with jus

bobpilgrem - TR O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Bob/Nic

Alex Winter - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/10 with T. Selvage

tigertim - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Alex Winter

Similar style to Safety Net but harder and better
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with J. Iles-Smith

jiles - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/10 with Alex Winter

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 19/May/10 with Mark D

Mark D - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with Laurence Everitt

Helped being 6ft4!
zerocool_jj2000 - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/10

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 18/Apr/10 with Dom, Adam

A Crook - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Dom Stockton, Neil Griffiths

rikbattye - Solo - Mar/10

Lead with gear in
gingerwolf - Lead dog - 13/Dec/09

Tim M - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 19/Sep/09 with cheesesarnie

Not sure if I did this right... The photo-topo is from really far away in the guidebook. I only found gear in a low break, meaning a groundfall from the base of the flake (where the next gear was) - wasn't willing to take the chance so downclimbed to the ground. Not sure how this can be E1 5c with potential groundfall like that.
PeteH - Lead dnf - 16/Sep/09 with Noel Peatfield

spacey - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with si barrow

wolverine - 02/Aug/09 with Iain Mount

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Jun/09

Tough for E1
craig d - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Simon Kincaid

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/09

mulletcocktail2000 - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/09 with john

View at- http://youtu.be/ZShQpZ1c1xw
caradoc - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with nick yapp

jored - Apr/09 with Ryan

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/08

nails at E1!
Rob84 - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/08 with Andy F

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Claire Duffield

SteveM - Lead dnf - 11/Oct/08 with Kat

kitkat78 - 2nd - 11/Oct/08 with SteveM

Led up on ev's gear and still sat on it twice.
metal arms - Lead dog - 20/Sep/08

snakebite - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Becki Blackshaw

Fell off while stood there!
Steve Banham - Lead dog - 10/Feb/08 with Dan M (wig)

jamesturnbull - Lead - Feb/08 with aiden

Billg - Lead O/S - 2008 with Alisdair Pettifer

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2008 with Brian

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Finger tip reach to place pro. Excellent
Jack Symmons - Lead - 16/Sep/07 with Chris T

Mike W - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/07 with Martin

mattyork2 - 2nd - 04/Feb/07 with Alan Royle

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 2007

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

I reckon I'd have bee npretty scared going for the flake if I'd been leading this (couldnt reach it from the break), although perhaps not too hard for 5c?
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/06 with Neil Furniss

dan gibson - 2nd - 07/Oct/06 with AJ

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Oct/06

Definitely hard for the short, nasty moves on poor crimps, and a fairly offputting finish too.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/06 with James Rowe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Sep/06

Rampikino - Lead - 02/Jul/06 with Ian & Liam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Fell off just after placing gear
Andrew Abraham - Lead dog - 2006

AngelaC - 2nd - 29/Aug/05 with Dieter Cole

FrankW - TR O/S - 11/Aug/05 with My Shunt

Stig - 2nd dog - 25/May/05 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 01/May/05 with Pete Robins

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

mark s - Solo - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/04

Coel Hellier - Lead - 2004

Easier for the tall!!
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Aug/03

cem - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/03 with Rod Strachan

2nd: Alan ?
Gary Coggon - Lead O/S - 04/May/02 with ?

cem - Lead dog - 23/Sep/01 with Graham Dolman

tlr - Lead - 2000

jonka - Lead - 2000

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/99

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/99

antroy - 2nd - 10/May/99

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 10/Jul/98 with Richard Bower

craig h - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/97 with Phil B

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/96

nige - Lead - 1996 with john buckley

robtrooper - 1996

Scott McRae - Lead β - 30/Apr/95 with Steve Lucas

Scott McRae - TR O/S - 29/Apr/95 with Steve Lucas

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/93

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - May/93

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/93 with Colin Hughes

andrew300169 - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/92 with Tim

Late in the day, i was knackered.
teespaddler - 2nd - 1992 with Al George

Rich Kirby - Lead - 04/Nov/90 with Joanne Jowett

sadams - 2nd - 31/Aug/90 with Mark Bonham

OMSKB - TR - Apr/90 with John Roberts

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/90 with Richard France, Andy Joyce

andrew300169 - 1990

Roget - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/89 with jim

Gambit - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/89 with Barney

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/89

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/84

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stvey, Ewano

Voting
Total votes cast 115
hard E20 of 42
E20 of 42
easy E28 of 42
hard E110 of 42
E124 of 42
easy E10 of 42
hard HVS0 of 42
HVS0 of 42
easy HVS0 of 42
hard 6a0 of 42
6a1 of 42
easy 6a2 of 42
hard 5c5 of 42
5c28 of 42
easy 5c6 of 42
hard 5b0 of 42
5b0 of 42
easy 5b0 of 42
3 Stars5 of 31
2 Stars20 of 31
1 Star5 of 31
0 Stars1 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
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