Staffordshire > Roaches Skyline >
 
Condor Slab** VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
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[Evening at the Easy Very Very Near Skyline Buttress, 2 kb]14m. The centre of the slab is climbed passing a hole to a ledge then a finish up the face above and slightly right. Good climbing that is poorly-protected. A Friend 3.5 is useful near the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars.

Photo: Evening at the Easy Very Very Near Skyline Buttress © davidj
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 258 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

Bold
JM0rrison - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13

thomaspomfrett - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Pat Brien

CSI Will - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/13

cem - Lead rpt - 07/Apr/13 with Paul Bolton

Copped out at the ledge!
Will Hunt - Solo - 16/Feb/13 with John Puddephatt

Hidden - 2013

sgl0jd - 2013

at night ... the gear was hard to find ;) pleasant tho :)
TM_Horton - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/12 with Guy

julesmckim - 2nd - 06/Oct/12 with dave lewis

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/12

David Kay - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with James Hoyes

Excellent
Julian Lane - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Mynydd Rach

Think the grade is pretty height dependent. Couldn't reach the big pocket from the first ledge so cheated and went up the crack of the HVS for a move to reach across.
Batt - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Jules

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Simon R, David K

Max Lowry - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/12

Boran - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Max Lowry

Dan Geh - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/12

PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Matt Wilson

Hillson - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Pete Wilson

sambosanquet101 - 2nd - 23/Jul/12 with Martin Jones

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/12

Bailed off to the left because of high wind throwing off balance.(I chickened out)
Hellflame - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/12 with Shim Mills

Lovely moves!
Babika - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/12 with Paul Callaghan

Very Bold, poor/no gear until shelf/upper block. Good footwork on very rounded handholds.
twodada - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Roman

2nd part tricky for short people
shim - 2nd - Jul/12

namagnall - 2nd - 12/Jun/12

Jay C - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Steve H, Nathan M

stevetheleg - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Nathan Magnall, Jay Conlon

TGreen - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Mark D, Rosie Henstock

Mark D - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Rosie Henstock, Tom Green

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/12

A nice little slab route. Seems to be a theme this weekend
Nick Russell - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Steve

Rosie Henstock - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Mark Duggan, Tom Green

Morris123 - Lead - 22/May/12

with Rob and Emma
martin c - Lead RP - 20/May/12

Lovely exposed/airy mid section, not that well protected it's true, but confidence and balance do you well.
lizzyb - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Matt Chinner

mmalbon - TR - 24/Mar/12 with Dave Lowndes, Simon

Matt JM Stevens - 2nd - 22/Mar/12

conorcussell - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Solo - 2012

Hidden - 2012

mark20 - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Nov/11

nice solo, solid
Lunar25 - Solo O/S - 01/Nov/11 with Pete nurse climber

Bart Shaw - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/11 with Sam, Tim

sgl - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/11 with tim, Bart

Rob84 - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/11 with Chris James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

crispyboy - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with denzel

Fiskavaig - TR - 01/Oct/11 with Jason J

Double Knee Bar - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/11

littleluke - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - 28/Jul/11

The blown gear must make this a candidate for upping the grade.
Ali.B - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11

One piece of gear below ledge one above.
Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Ian

Marvino - Lead - 07/Jul/11 with Martin

DanT - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/11 with James Moore

bullybones - Lead - 02/Jun/11

donkster - 2nd rpt - Jun/11 with Alfie, ki

Ky - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Donk

galpinos - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Sam

An awesome route. The crux for me was getting off the ledge to reach the good holds. I expected the top to be harder than it was.
Emma-Louise Anderson - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Mel Brown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11

really struggled as couldnt do the move off the ledge due to not being able to reach the decent hold
staceyjg - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with Barra

PenJD - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Duz Walker

fun climbing pretty run out between gear :) (just about)
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with woody

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

Kingsjester - TR O/S - 14/Nov/10 with Paul Feltham

Paul C F - 2nd dog - 14/Nov/10 with Adele Greenway

donkster - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/10 with ben, dennis

Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/10 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Oct/10

pauldr - Lead rpt - 25/Oct/10

Mr. K - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Nia Fletcher

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/10

Dux - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Andy Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10

danJBA - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Dan Leach - Lead - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/10

philboy - Lead - 27/Aug/10 with matt g

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/Aug/10

pauldr - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with J. Iles-Smith

jiles - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Alex Winter

twodada - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with Jamie

toasted - Lead - 11/Jul/10 with Dean Bucknall, Heather

Climbed to second ledge, only managed to get 1 piece of gear in (just above big pocket) and bailed when I got to the second ledge.
lukebowman551 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Craig Shelley

Coel Hellier - Lead - 05/Jun/10

Garron - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

previously top roped 2007
bobpilgrem - Lead β - 24/May/10 with Bob/Nic

Double Knee Bar - 2nd O/S - 20/May/10 with Iain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/10

Alroy - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with john corbett

First did this in late 80's. Good wire in approach groove stops the others pulling out. Good wire just above pocket, perfect wire protects headwall, small friend in front of your face for top-out. more importantly; it's brilliant
alan moore - May/10

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 18/Apr/10 with Adam

A Crook - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Dom Stockton, Neil Griffiths

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/10

mikelawrence aka jonnienomates - 2nd - 08/Apr/10 with Colin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10

JGW - 2nd - Apr/10 with Matt Tilley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10

donkster - Lead rpt - 13/Feb/10 with pete buswell

Solod to ledge to find top section very green. Got put on belay then fell off last move. Wrist now in plaster.
MattT88 - Lead dnf - 07/Feb/10 with Alex Maggs

top roped due to tiredness after a long walk, nice route but will pass on the lead
Jack.Beech - TR - 2010

GF - 2010

No real protection and had to miss the top meter due to damp green algae
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/09 with Tim

donkster - 2nd rpt - 10/Oct/09 with DaveNW

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

cooper leek - 2nd rpt - 22/Sep/09 with matt

benny_m - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Roger Hill

I led up to the shelf but I was so far above the "gear" that I escaped left. Good to top-rope. I may be brave next year.
silhouette - TR O/S - 13/Sep/09 with benny_m

Rick Ashton - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Richard McElligot

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Richard Ashton

Russell Lovett - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with alan taylor

JamesBurton - 2nd - 08/Aug/09 with Darrell Read

Darrell Read - Lead - 08/Aug/09 with James Burton

Felt pretty bold up the central section.
RCrockford - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Charlie

donkster - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/09 with alex

cooper leek - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/09 with alex

Warning for anyone with an average to short reach - getting off the ledge will be hard!! Lots of effort and some "proactive belaying" eventually got me up. Won;t lead this route unless I grow some more.
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 05/Jul/09 with Neil Pacey

Neil Pacey - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Tanya Savage

grady - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Decided we'll never lead this. No gear and virtually no holds! Good to top rope tho.
mmalbon - TR - 31/May/09 with Mick

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Sarah New

Diggler - 2nd - 23/May/09 with jonah

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 11/May/09

Hidden - Lead - May/09

bobpilgrem - TR O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Bob/Tom

James B - Lead - 18/Apr/09 with Nick

Stable, but very bold. Found one nut placement near the top.
Rob Laird - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with B Sosin

mr random - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Rob L

PaulGreenhead - TR O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Kirsty

Kirsty - TR - 12/Apr/09 with PaulGreenhead

donkster - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/09

joe larner - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/09

cooper leek - Lead rpt - Apr/09 with donk

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Drew

chiragshah5001 - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/08

rob wmc - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08

snakebite - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Becki Blackshaw

sarah87 - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08

Superb route in a great situation, necky lead by Dunc. Definitely helps to be tall. Crux is at the top, I'd say, pretty sketchy for 4c. Skipped the silly 'Integrale' start.
Steve Pardoe - 2nd - 02/Jul/08 with Duncan Irving

Enjoyable, but not sure why it has 2 stars. Very little gear placing opportunities!
AndyM-LVB - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Richard Hopton

richardhopton - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with AndyM-LVB

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/08 with Neil Furniss

siah - Lead - 08/Jun/08 with hissi, joe and rv

Fantastic - Highly recommended. I didn't see anywhere to put gear though.
mmalbon - TR - 10/May/08 with Mick, Simon and James

jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 10/May/08 with Huw Howells

Neil Henson - 2nd - 08/May/08 with Graham Robinson

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 2008

Climbed during group session
RETICENTFISH - TR O/S - 22/Oct/07 with Mike Watkiss

deejmonkey - Lead - 07/Oct/07 with Tom

tomparrott - 2nd - 07/Oct/07 with DJ

cem - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/07 with David T, Rob Truckle

pennyb - TR - 23/Sep/07 with A School Group (with Jon)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07

jonny5 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Alix Blockley

MaccMark - 2nd - 08/Aug/07 with Philip Jarvis

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07

Hidden - TR - 19/Jul/07

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Chris and Jones

ed woods - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with Marshall & Jonesy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/07

C.J.Horsfield - Lead O/S - 2007 with tom boyle

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Chewie - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2007

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 08/Oct/06

Hidden - Solo - 08/Oct/06

Whealiebob - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/06 with Terry & Ned

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06

goot route
Milne - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/06 with Ned

really windy and no big friend
tomboyle - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/06 with horsi

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/06

alj - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/06 with leon skeldon

Retroman3 - 2nd - 22/Jul/06 with Yan, Rachel, Steph

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/06

Col Allott - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06 with Alex Sturrock

Hidden - 2006

Si dH - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/05 with Gerhard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/05

ArnaudG - 2nd - Jul/05 with Dunc

tatz45 - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Keren Willcocks

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/05

Stig - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/05 with Jonathan Teale

ASchwirtz - Solo O/S - 07/Sep/04

Bold – Ground fall potential.
Alaric - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/04 with Neil

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/04 with Matt Smith

Apharri - Lead O/S - May/04 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/04

max_chan - Lead O/S - 2004 with AG

Tim W - Lead - 2004

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Mark Davies

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 27/Sep/03 with Nige Shaw

Sankey - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/03

Laramadness - Solo - 21/Jul/03

Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/03 with ChrisA

Climbed on shunt
Yourlead - TR - 14/Apr/03

nige - Solo - 2003

D Berry - Lead rpt - 26/Oct/02 with Claire Berry

Hidden - Lead - 02/Sep/02

D Berry - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/02 with Claire Berry

akhughes - Lead - Jul/02

cem - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/01 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/01

MontyH - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/01 with Andy Lawrance

mark s - Solo - 2001

Ropeboy - Solo - 03/Sep/00

kato'sdad - Lead - 08/Aug/00 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - 2nd - 08/Aug/00 with Jon Berry

richard31 - Lead O/S - 13/May/00 with Dave Draycott

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - May/00

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2000 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Solo rpt - 03/May/99

craig h - Solo O/S - 08/Oct/98 with Jamie Lillieman

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/98

FrankW - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/98 with Joe

FrankW - Solo - Aug/98

Budge - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/98 with Mike Oates

Billg - Solo - 27/May/98 with Alisdair Pettifer

smudge - Lead O/S - 11/May/96 with Rich

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/95 with Tony Morris

nai - 2nd - 1995

brady - 1995 with John Cameron

John Southworth - Solo - Nov/94

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 03/May/92 with Pom

Andy Say - Solo - 19/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/90

Roget - Solo O/S - 08/Apr/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Hidden - Solo O/S - Aug/89

Iain Thow - Lead - 04/May/89 with Rob Ivens

tlr - TR - Oct/88 with Fin and Nick

babymoac - Lead - 11/Sep/88 with Bob Hunter

tapley - Solo - 18/Sep/87

Ken Taylor - Lead - 20/May/83 with Ros

Chris Craggs - 1980

Gordon Stainforth - Solo - 30/Apr/77

rogerskews - Solo - 1974

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jul/71 with Debbie Wilkinson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
iksander, MikeStuart26, PeteWilson, Hidden, Imosavageking, gianpaolo, Hidden, bigmrp, hapymike, Kelly D, Hidden, tompilgrem, Dr Caterpillar, daza

Voting
Total votes cast 146
hard HVS0 of 55
HVS0 of 55
easy HVS3 of 55
hard VS6 of 55
VS38 of 55
easy VS5 of 55
hard HS3 of 55
HS0 of 55
easy HS0 of 55
hard 5a0 of 41
5a0 of 41
easy 5a1 of 41
hard 4c0 of 41
4c26 of 41
easy 4c3 of 41
hard 4b11 of 41
4b0 of 41
easy 4b0 of 41
3 Stars0 of 50
2 Stars34 of 50
1 Star13 of 50
0 Stars3 of 50
Bag of .....0 of 50
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed30 of 258 (11.6%)
Lead122 of 258 (47.3%)
Followed75 of 258 (29.1%)
Toproped16 of 258 (6.2%)
Unknown15 of 258 (5.8%)

'Climbed'99 of 258 (38.4%)
clean O/S129 of 258 (50.0%)
clean β1 of 258 (0.4%)
clean rpt25 of 258 (9.7%)
clean RP1 of 258 (0.4%)
dogged1 of 258 (0.4%)
dnf2 of 258 (0.8%)