Rockfax Description
The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to the base of the streak. Climb straight up this which is sustained and fingery all the way to its top (a rest is possible on the left, in the scoop of Catharsis, for the harassed). At the top of the streak, pull up and finish up the Ivy Gash. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
First thread on the head wall replaced May 2015. Second thread needs replacing. The rest are okish but not new. Good in situ ab point / belay at the top off a massive metal cable thread.

FA. John Yates 1974

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Hidden 28/May Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 20/May Lead rpt

Dogged a few years ago. Cruisey this time.

with Mike W
Mike W 20/May Lead O/S
with chris
theomoore 23/Apr Lead O/S

not that good with all the threads in

Mike_Hayes 25/Mar Lead
Stoney Boy 07/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Nick Conway
philhilo 18/Jul/15 Lead β

Had a look at it on abseil approach. No surprises but did check out a cam placement to back up the peg.

with Helen E
Graham Westbrook 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Rachel Slater 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Rosie Slater
benw681 04/May/15 Lead dog

What a stonking route. Perhaps E3 with the current shocking in situ threads and bird in the hole.

with Hannah
Misha 04/May/15 Lead O/S

What a great route! Perfect pocketed rock, not much of that around in the UK. Hung around below the crux moves past the second thread on the headwall, not entirely convinced by the two old threads so fiddled a good wire in but got a bit pumped in the process, managed to recover though and then figured out a fairly straightforward way forward so the hardest bit was the hanging around! The moves (or at least the easiest sequence) takes you towards the niche rest but didn't need it as there are better pockets up right anyway. Easier above but still lots of great 5b pocket pulling and a couple of tricky finishing moves. Good lower off at the top (steel cable thread) means you can ab off but it makes for a very exposed and slightly uncomfortable belay stance - better to lower off and belay the second from the belay ledge. Replaced the first thread on the headwall, the second one needs doing as well but ran out of tat! The threads above that aren't new but seemed more or less ok. Definitely E3 5c as per the guidebook, the E3 5b here must be a typo.

with Jon
morganator 19/Apr/15 2nd
with Neil McAdie
Duncan Campbell 22/Mar/15 2nd rpt
with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic, there is a 5c move there in among the 5b in my opinion. Shout into the manhole when you get there, you'll be suprised.

Chriswallis2 03/Aug/14 Lead dog

Underestimated this. Hard and pumpy with the threads in place.. would be nails without them. Bomber metal lower off at the top, just below the grass.

with Anna
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 04/May/14 2nd dog
with conor shepherd
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
alaan 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Will
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Brown 12/Apr/14 Lead
with Lilifa
Duncan Campbell 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Awesome! Brilliant pocket climbing up the wall, would be very cheeky if you had to place those threads! Should be on all E3 climbers hitlist and any sport fit E2 leaders' also. E3 5c and definitely deserving it's Top 50 tag.

with Bubbles
Mike_Hayes 16/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with dan parkes
Mike_Hayes 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Very good unique and sustained pocket pulling. Would be awesome, but the tat strangely spoils the route's authenticity.

mike mo ??/2014 -
Shortarse.Crowley 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A fun climb! Onsight lead- nice stamina route, recommend using two ropes. A load of drag to pull through, doesnt help being pumped already !

with Andi t, Justin Critchlow
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
bigdrew ??/2013 Lead O/S

Can't remember date.

w.pettet-smith 18/Aug/12 Lead

maybe e3 if all threads were chopped.fun, unique climbing.

with ben
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
markalmack 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S

so many threads it's a sport route! F6c ish

Ram MkiV 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Guy
tlmarjot 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Mark Almack
Bob ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Chris_barr 22/Sep/11 Lead β
with James
simeclimb68 09/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Phil Wilkinson
robinsi197 09/Sep/11 2nd dog

Fell off. Then completed.

with Nick
Nick Sillem 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead
Somerset swede basher 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with George Taylor
phil64 ??/2011 -
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
steveb2006 31/Aug/10 Lead
with Tim Cairns
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead
Nick Taylor 20/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Adam Long
spacey 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing, very sustained to the little rest in the scoop and a sketchy top out. You can lower off a wire/chain set up near the top. Also worth noting that currently the path accross from the Thorn gearing up spot is relatively clear and makes it easyish to get to, so no excuses!

with Tom
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 TR dog
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Brian Rodgers 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Quite physical. Approach as if doing Majolica and then traverse in.

with Ian Bruce
Stig 08/Aug/08 Lead dog

A truly appalling effort. Did all the moves though.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
andi turner 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Sharratt
Alex Mason 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S

last route of a quality trip. well suited too. more tat than you can shake a stake at (8 bits?) the groove that the harrassed swing into, i believe everyone swings into its the line of the route. it doesnt make any difference because you get a good rest on big holds just too the right. 3**

Gustav ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Gustav ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Neil
steveb2006 29/Apr/06 Lead
with Pete Carter
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 16/Sep/05 Lead rpt
Dave Bond 08/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
nige 05/May/05 Lead
with sven rowan
chrishedgehog 18/Mar/05 Lead O/S

Sweaty day, seeping a bit AND chose today to forget chalk bag so as Botty doesn't use chalk, did it without. Add a grade!!

with Erwin Bottomley
steveb2006 15/Jul/03 Lead dog

Too sweaty

with Paul Ramsden
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd O/S
craig h 20/Apr/99 2nd
with Nez
steveb2006 21/Mar/99 Lead

Both lead

with Neville Contractor
steveb2006 06/Apr/97 Lead
with Terry Thornton
crossleysm ?/Jun/96 Lead
Daniel Wrightson 13/May/95 2nd
with Simon
andybirtwistle 02/May/94 Lead
neilh 17/Oct/93 Lead

no instu tat just wires!

with sara hyde
steveb2006 18/Sep/93 Lead

Climb direct staying right of Catharsis scoop. Good

with Ian Cartwright
andrew300169 30/May/93 Lead

What a brilliant climb in an excellent position. Was hell to get to though

steveb2006 27/Mar/93 Lead

After Mike fails on The Fly. Cold

with Mike Pycroft
AlanLittle ??/1993 2nd
with John Whitham
steveb2006 17/Oct/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 13/Aug/92 2nd
Roget 07/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with colin
adi bryant 05/Oct/91 Lead dnf

Took a big fall!

with Clive
Hidden 11/May/91 Lead
whispering nic 21/Apr/91 2nd
with Ali W
mark-abz 02/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Simon K
NickJH ?/Apr/90 2nd
with D Picker, J Airey, I Smith, D Townsend
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Aug/89 -
tapley 27/Jul/89 2nd
Stoney Boy 30/Apr/89 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 29/Apr/89 Lead
with Grahame Nicoll, Rab Young
Billg ??/1989 Lead O/S
steveb2006 07/May/88 Lead
with Simon Mee
Dave Musgrove 01/Nov/87 Lead O/S

we both led

with David
shark 10/Oct/86 Lead
with Chris
Hidden 04/Oct/86 2nd
uphillnow 31/Aug/86 2nd

since lead

with Andrew (Pog) Horn
sadams ?/Aug/86 2nd
with Colin from Stoney
steveb2006 17/Jul/86 Lead RP

1 fall, lower off. Pleased to do it in reasonable style

with Mervyn Dudley
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
John Marsland 29/Jun/85 2nd
with Eduardo Martinez
Hidden ?/May/84 2nd rpt
Mark Kemball 12/Nov/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey
stp 24/Sep/83 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 17/Apr/83 AltLd O/S


with Dave Booth
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Ivan Machin 27/Jul/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Ivan Machin 27/Jul/82 -
with Jon Mellor
redjerry ?/Jul/82 2nd
with Bob Duncan
Mike Owen 03/May/82 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 25/Apr/82 AltLd
Andy Edgar ??/1980 -
with Hugh Woodland, Mick Hardwick
Steve Bell ??/1978 2nd O/S
with Tim Leach
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AlexD, deacondeacon, islandlynx, Gary Coggon, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, Alan100, ShaunD, Hidden, Hidden, Simon Davenport, Hidden
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