Black Grub*** E3 5c
[Looking committed- second ever 'E' grade lead- onsight too, 2 kb]28m.

Rockfax Description
The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to the base of the streak. Climb straight up this which is sustained and fingery all the way to its top (a rest is possible on the left, in the scoop of Catharsis, for the harassed). At the top of the streak, pull up and finish up the Ivy Gash. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
First thread on the head wall replaced May 2015. Second thread needs replacing. The rest are okish but not new. Good in situ ab point / belay at the top off a massive metal cable thread.

FA. John Yates 1974

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List.

Photo: Looking committed- second ever 'E' grade lead- onsight too © Shortarse.Crowley
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This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Stoney Boy - 2nd rpt - 07/Aug/15 with Nick Conway

Had a look at it on abseil approach. No surprises but did check out a cam placement to back up the peg.
philhilo - Lead β - 18/Jul/15 with Helen E

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Gibbon

Use this as an incentive to lose the weight ! Could not do move after first thread - 15/2!
derekb - Lead dnf - 23/Jun/15 with Harry

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 16/May/15 with Rosie Slater

What a stonking route. Perhaps E3 with the current shocking in situ threads and bird in the hole.
benw681 - Lead dog - 04/May/15 with Hannah

What a great route! Perfect pocketed rock, not much of that around in the UK. Hung around below the crux moves past the second thread on the headwall, not entirely convinced by the two old threads so fiddled a good wire in but got a bit pumped in the process, managed to recover though and then figured out a fairly straightforward way forward so the hardest bit was the hanging around! The moves (or at least the easiest sequence) takes you towards the niche rest but didn't need it as there are better pockets up right anyway. Easier above but still lots of great 5b pocket pulling and a couple of tricky finishing moves. Good lower off at the top (steel cable thread) means you can ab off but it makes for a very exposed and slightly uncomfortable belay stance - better to lower off and belay the second from the belay ledge. Replaced the first thread on the headwall, the second one needs doing as well but ran out of tat! The threads above that aren't new but seemed more or less ok. Definitely E3 5c as per the guidebook, the E3 5b here must be a typo.
Misha - Lead O/S - 04/May/15 with Jon

morganator - 2nd - 19/Apr/15 with Neil McAdie

Duncan Campbell - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/15 with GuyVG

Fantastic, there is a 5c move there in among the 5b in my opinion. Shout into the manhole when you get there, you'll be suprised.
GuyVG - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/15 with duncan campbell

Underestimated this. Hard and pumpy with the threads in place.. would be nails without them. Bomber metal lower off at the top, just below the grass.
Chriswallis2 - Lead dog - 03/Aug/14 with Anna

horrendous approach. well worth the effort though, quality
papashango - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Rob

rob.grafton - 2nd dog - 04/May/14 with conor shepherd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

alaan - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Brown - Lead - 12/Apr/14 with Lily

Awesome! Brilliant pocket climbing up the wall, would be very cheeky if you had to place those threads! Should be on all E3 climbers hitlist and any sport fit E2 leaders' also. E3 5c and definitely deserving it's Top 50 tag.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Bubbles

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

mike mo - 2014

A fun climb! Onsight lead- nice stamina route, recommend using two ropes. A load of drag to pull through, doesnt help being pumped already !
Shortarse.Crowley - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/13 with Andi t, Justin Critchlow

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

Can't remember date.
bigdrew - Lead O/S - 2013 with Ian Milward

maybe e3 if all threads were, unique climbing.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 18/Aug/12 with ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

so many threads it's a sport route! F6c ish
markalmack - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with tim marjot

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Guy

tlmarjot - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Mark Almack

Bob - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Chris_barr - Lead β - 22/Sep/11 with James

simeclimb68 - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/11 with Phil Wilkinson

Fell off. Then completed.
robinsi197 - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/11 with Nick

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/11

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with George Taylor

phil64 - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/10

Nick Taylor - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/10 with Adam Long

Lovely climbing, very sustained to the little rest in the scoop and a sketchy top out. You can lower off a wire/chain set up near the top. Also worth noting that currently the path accross from the Thorn gearing up spot is relatively clear and makes it easyish to get to, so no excuses!
spacey - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - TR dog - 03/May/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Quite physical. Approach as if doing Majolica and then traverse in.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Ian Bruce

A truly appalling effort. Did all the moves though.
Stig - Lead dog - 08/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

andi turner - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/08 with Mark Sharratt

last route of a quality trip. well suited too. more tat than you can shake a stake at (8 bits?) the groove that the harrassed swing into, i believe everyone swings into its the line of the route. it doesnt make any difference because you get a good rest on big holds just too the right. 3**
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/06 with Steve Ramsden

Gustav - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with Neil

Gustav - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with Neil

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/05

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/05 with Simon Wren

nige - Lead - 05/May/05 with sven rowan

Sweaty day, seeping a bit AND chose today to forget chalk bag so as Botty doesn't use chalk, did it without. Add a grade!!
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/05 with Erwin Bottomley

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Jul/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Sep/02 with Matt

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Tim M - AltLd O/S - 2000

craig h - 2nd - 20/Apr/99 with Nez

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/99

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/97

Daniel Wrightson - 2nd - 13/May/95 with Simon

no instu tat just wires!
neilh - Lead - 17/Oct/93 with sara hyde

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/93

What a brilliant climb in an excellent position. Was hell to get to though
andrew300169 - Lead - 30/May/93

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/93

AlanLittle - 2nd - 1993 with John Whitham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/92

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 13/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton

Roget - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/92 with colin

Took a big fall!
adi bryant - Lead dnf - 05/Oct/91 with Clive

Hidden - Lead - 11/May/91

whispering nic - 2nd - 21/Apr/91 with Ali W

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/90 with Simon K

NickJH - 2nd - Apr/90 with D Picker, J Airey, I Smith, D Townsend

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - Aug/89

tapley - 2nd - 27/Jul/89

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 29/Apr/89 with Grahame Nicoll, Rab Young

Billg - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/88

we both led
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/87 with David

shark - Lead - 10/Oct/86 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/86

since lead
uphillnow - 2nd - 31/Aug/86 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

sadams - 2nd - Aug/86 with Colin from Stoney

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Jul/86

Hidden - Lead - 1986

John Marsland - 2nd - 29/Jun/85 with Eduardo Martinez

Hidden - 2nd rpt - May/84

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 12/Nov/83 with Dave Abbey

stp - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/83

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/83 with Dave Booth

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Steve Burns

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Ivan Machin - 27/Jul/82 with Jon Mellor

Ivan Machin - 27/Jul/82 with Jon Mellor

redjerry - 2nd - Jul/82 with Bob Duncan

Mike Owen - 03/May/82 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/82

Andy Edgar - 1980 with Hugh Woodland, Mick Hardwick

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AlexD, deacondeacon, theomoore, islandlynx, Gary Coggon, Owen W-G, derekb, Alan100, philhilo, ShaunD, Simon Davenport

Total votes cast 101
hard E40 of 36
E40 of 36
easy E40 of 36
hard E39 of 36
E321 of 36
easy E35 of 36
hard E21 of 36
E20 of 36
easy E20 of 36
hard 6a0 of 34
6a0 of 34
easy 6a0 of 34
hard 5c1 of 34
5c3 of 34
easy 5c27 of 34
hard 5b3 of 34
5b0 of 34
easy 5b0 of 34
3 Stars26 of 31
2 Stars4 of 31
1 Star1 of 31
0 Stars0 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP