Black Grub*** E3 5b
[Looking committed- second ever 'E' grade lead- onsight too, 2 kb]28m. The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to the base of the streak. Climb straight up this which is sustained and fingery all the way to its top (a rest is possible on the left, in the scoop of Catharsis, for the harassed). At the top of the streak pull up and finish up the Ivy Gash. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Yates 1974

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Photo: Looking committed- second ever 'E' grade lead- onsight too © Shortarse.Crowley

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 95 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Underestimated this. Hard and pumpy with the threads in place.. would be nails without them. Bomber metal lower off at the top, just below the grass.
Chriswallis2 - Lead dog - 03/Aug/14 with Anna

horrendous approach. well worth the effort though, quality
papashango - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Rob

rob.grafton - 2nd dog - 04/May/14 with conor shepherd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

alaan - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Brown - Lead - 12/Apr/14 with Lily

Awesome! Brilliant pocket climbing up the wall, would be very cheeky if you had to place those threads! Should be on all E3 climbers hitlist and any sport fit E2 leaders' also. E3 5c and definitely deserving it's Top 50 tag.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Bubbles

wolverine - 2nd rpt - 16/Mar/14 with dan parkes

Very good unique and sustained pocket pulling. Would be awesome, but the tat strangely spoils the route's authenticity.
wolverine - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with ian mount

mike mo - 2014

A fun climb! Onsight lead- nice stamina route, recommend using two ropes. A load of drag to pull through, doesnt help being pumped already !
Shortarse.Crowley - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/13 with Andi t, Justin Critchlow

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

Can't remember date.
bigdrew - Lead O/S - 2013 with Ian Milward

maybe e3 if all threads were chopped.fun, unique climbing.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 18/Aug/12 with ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

so many threads it's a sport route! F6c ish
markalmack - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with tim marjot

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Guy

tlmarjot - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Mark Almack

Bob - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Chris_barr - Lead β - 22/Sep/11 with James

simeclimb68 - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/11 with Phil Wilkinson

Fell off. Then completed.
robinsi197 - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/11 with Nick

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/11

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with George Taylor

phil64 - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/10

Nick Taylor - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/10 with Adam Long

Lovely climbing, very sustained to the little rest in the scoop and a sketchy top out. You can lower off a wire/chain set up near the top. Also worth noting that currently the path accross from the Thorn gearing up spot is relatively clear and makes it easyish to get to, so no excuses!
spacey - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - TR dog - 03/May/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Quite physical. Approach as if doing Majolica and then traverse in.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Ian Bruce

A truly appalling effort. Did all the moves though.
Stig - Lead dog - 08/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

andi turner - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/08 with Mark Sharratt

last route of a quality trip. well suited too. more tat than you can shake a stake at (8 bits?) the groove that the harrassed swing into, i believe everyone swings into its the line of the route. it doesnt make any difference because you get a good rest on big holds just too the right. 3**
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/06 with Steve Ramsden

Gustav - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with Neil

Gustav - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with Neil

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/05

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/05 with Simon Wren

nige - Lead - 05/May/05 with sven rowan

Sweaty day, seeping a bit AND chose today to forget chalk bag so as Botty doesn't use chalk, did it without. Add a grade!!
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/05 with Erwin Bottomley

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Jul/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Sep/02 with Matt

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Tim M - AltLd O/S - 2000

craig h - 2nd - 20/Apr/99 with Nez

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/99

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/97

Daniel Wrightson - 2nd - 13/May/95 with Simon

no instu tat just wires!
neilh - Lead - 17/Oct/93 with sara hyde

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/93

What a brilliant climb in an excellent position. Was hell to get to though
andrew300169 - Lead - 30/May/93

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/93

AlanLittle - 2nd - 1993 with John Whitham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/92

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 13/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton

Roget - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/92 with colin

Took a big fall!
adi bryant - Lead dnf - 05/Oct/91 with Clive

Hidden - Lead - 11/May/91

whispering nic - 2nd - 21/Apr/91 with Ali W

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/90 with Simon K

NickJH - 2nd - Apr/90 with D Picker, J Airey, I Smith, D Townsend

Hidden - Aug/89

tapley - 2nd - 27/Jul/89

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 29/Apr/89 with Grahame Nicoll, Rab Young

Billg - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/88

we both led
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/87 with David

shark - Lead - 10/Oct/86 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/86

since lead
David Smith - 2nd - 31/Aug/86 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

sadams - 2nd - Aug/86 with Colin from Stoney

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Jul/86

Hidden - Lead - 1986

John Marsland - 2nd - 29/Jun/85 with Eduardo Martinez

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 12/Nov/83 with Dave Abbey

stp - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/83

L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/83 with Dave Booth

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Steve Burns

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Ivan Machin - 27/Jul/82 with Jon Mellor

Ivan Machin - 27/Jul/82 with Jon Mellor

Mike Owen - 03/May/82 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
islandlynx, Gary Coggon, Si dH, JamieSparkes, Owen W-G, derekb, Alan100, philhilo, ShaunD, middle aged slob

Voting
Total votes cast 86
hard E40 of 31
E40 of 31
easy E40 of 31
hard E39 of 31
E317 of 31
easy E34 of 31
hard E21 of 31
E20 of 31
easy E20 of 31
hard 5c1 of 29
5c1 of 29
easy 5c24 of 29
hard 5b3 of 29
5b0 of 29
easy 5b0 of 29
hard 5a0 of 29
5a0 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
3 Stars22 of 26
2 Stars3 of 26
1 Star1 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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