UKC

Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

28m.

Rockfax Description
The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to the base of the streak. Climb straight up this which is sustained and fingery all the way to its top (a rest is possible on the left, in the scoop of Catharsis, for the harassed). At the top of the streak, pull up and finish up Ivy Gash.. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
First thread on the head wall replaced May 2015. Second thread needs replacing. The rest are okish but not new. Good in situ ab point / belay at the top off a massive metal cable thread.

FA. John Yates 1974.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Lime trad for hobbyists

Feedback

User Date Notes
Albachoss 15 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Threads in great condition and much gratitude to whoever maintains the approach rope work
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Threads in great condition and much gratitude to whoever maintains the approach rope work
Fiend 19 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Magificent, as good as any bit of pocket pulling you'd find on the Continent. Currently well threaded and deserving of a fair 6b+. The off-route deviation to a rest out left does NOT get you the tick! Just a bloody great bit of climbing. To avoid the utterly vile and lethal approach from below, and to avoid the grass slopes getting to the Ivy Gash belay, it's possible to ab from the hawthorn cluster to the belay ledge with a 50m ab rope. A 60m ab rope would get you to Majolica too.
βeta?
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βeta: Magificent, as good as any bit of pocket pulling you'd find on the Continent. Currently well threaded and deserving of a fair 6b+. The off-route deviation to a rest out left does NOT get you the tick! Just a bloody great bit of climbing. To avoid the utterly vile and lethal approach from below, and to avoid the grass slopes getting to the Ivy Gash belay, it's possible to ab from the hawthorn cluster to the belay ledge with a 50m ab rope. A 60m ab rope would get you to Majolica too.
TonyM 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Surely the difficulty is pretty dependent on the number of threads in situ? Climbed as a clip-up (condition last weekend), it's straightforward. Quality though! Lots of 1st finger joint moves.
βeta?
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βeta: Surely the difficulty is pretty dependent on the number of threads in situ? Climbed as a clip-up (condition last weekend), it's straightforward. Quality though! Lots of 1st finger joint moves.
NickAL 21 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A worthwhile 'warm-up-approach' is to lead Pocket Symphony (can be done in one pitch from the ground), then do the 2nd, traverse pitch of Ivy Gash lowering off the top belay it shares with black grub (watch the ends of the rope when lowering the 2nd). Nick Learmont
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A worthwhile 'warm-up-approach' is to lead Pocket Symphony (can be done in one pitch from the ground), then do the 2nd, traverse pitch of Ivy Gash lowering off the top belay it shares with black grub (watch the ends of the rope when lowering the 2nd). Nick Learmont
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovelly sustained pocket pulling, with a distinct crux just below the move left. I thought there was a better rest when you move back right onto the black streak than the one out left. The approach is horrible and if the fixed rope wears out, you could go a long way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovelly sustained pocket pulling, with a distinct crux just below the move left. I thought there was a better rest when you move back right onto the black streak than the one out left. The approach is horrible and if the fixed rope wears out, you could go a long way.
chrishedgehog 23 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Just reached the approach path on 50m ropes from the steel cable threaded at the top of Ivy Gash - a good descent option. The approach is really grim and merits respect, even in the dry.
βeta?
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βeta: Just reached the approach path on 50m ropes from the steel cable threaded at the top of Ivy Gash - a good descent option. The approach is really grim and merits respect, even in the dry.
Ropeboy 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A nice long pitch, best done without the rest for the 'full' experience.
βeta?
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βeta: A nice long pitch, best done without the rest for the 'full' experience.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Comedian

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Hen Cloud)

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