Llithrig*** E1 5c
[Llithrig crux, minus the pendulum, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A great, historical classic that traditionally involves a tension traverse on P2. The route is HVS if done this way and many prefer to use the original method as Joe Brown himself believes this retains the "original spirit of adventure".
1) 4a, 25m. Follow Sunset Crack to a stance below the corner by a manky thread.
2) 5c (5a), 20m. Delicately foot traverse a slopy ledge right to a groove. Move up the groove which leads up to a ledge on the rib. Traverse right below the overlap into a corner then pull up and right through the roof. Follow the good holds above and right to a spike. Descend slightly and, either make a technical traverse across right, or, using tension off the spike, pull yourself across to a belay ledge with pegs and wires.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up and right to gain and follow a crack. Make hard moves up to gain the base of a corner to a possible belay, although it is common to link this into the next pitch.
4) 4c, 18m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the right and then move left into a crack. This leads to a belay on a ledge just below the Green Gallery.
5) 4a, 5m. Climb up the short wall/crack to reach the terrace. Either escape off rightwards, or head up to climb Pinnacle Arete. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: Llithrig crux, minus the pendulum © chrishedgehog
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 174 logbooks, and on 44 wishlists.

Fell off the crux move after reading it all wrong. A bit of a cloudy, cold day on Cloggy
Matt77 - AltLd dog - 03/Oct/15 with Owen

7 teams on Cloggy in October. Grimly cold, took ages incl descent, such an intimidating crag. Freed crux on second, felt 6a
Owen W-G - AltLd rpt - 03/Oct/15 with Preston Matt

Fell off crux. Very out of character with the rest of the route. Good fun though, and pretty safe. Probably only justifies 2 stars.
Mackinclimb - AltLd - 02/Oct/15

Nails route, friend fell of the traverse.
Michael Morrell - AltLd dog - 02/Sep/15

1 pitch with a single. AWWw! I didnt wanna let the strong american down. I did a bit of a direct version to miss out the shitty crux which still felt like a hard but better e2. Actually part of Opening Bid
dan ely - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/15 with dave chew

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/15

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - AltLd - 2015

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Sarah

I agree with Joe, a much better route with a tension move rather than free...ie what we did first time around!
Bulls Crack - AltLd β - Jul/14 with SP

Never had to trust a crimp so much on multipitch, had a wobble, stunning pitches.
Tommy Moore - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with John Lynch

Brilliant line, loved the downwards traversey bit
john lynch - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Tommy

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/14

Tried the traverse about 4 times but just couldn't work it out. Judging from photos on here, I might have gone a bit too high, but shit at slab, so whatever. Carried on to the corner instead.
Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Bryan Clary

Bob - 2014

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

pie_eater_pete - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with bwestwood

1st and 3rd
bwestwood - AltLd - 22/Jul/13

Great moves through the traverse crux. Shame about the fiddly gear on the belay after
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Darren McMaster

Dougie took the first two in one and I did the third and fourth in one. Started a bit too far right so climbed up to join the end of the traverse on the first pitch. Did the pendulum move free - a little tricky. Unclipped the spike on second to avoid rope faff and make it a little more interesting!
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13

Simon Davis - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Tim P

Dan Mckinlay - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13

led pitch 2, highly enjoyable running it out on great rock.
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Alasdair

Nice route. I lead 1 and 3. We went for the tension traverse method.. The 3rd pitch is lovely exposed jug pulling
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Mark Reeves

alasdair19 - AltLd - Jul/13

Good history and quirky pendulum/backrope option. Would feel like a better climb if it wasn't at cloggy and next to so many other amazing routes.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Rachel Slater

Lead pitch 2. Fun.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Olli Crudge

Lead P1 and 3, Mike on 2 and 4. Took pendulum swing on second pitch (HVS alt).
cathymiller - AltLd - 08/Jun/13 with Mike Peak

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

matt.woodfield - AltLd - 08/Jun/13

Good lead by Jim-after much faffing I had to resort to the 'traditional'pendulum.Excellent sustained route- my first on Cloggy.
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with JIm

John Nuttall - 2nd - 07/Jun/13 with Andy H

jcw - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches. Great route. Climbed crux traverse free seconding with back rope from in situ sling on spike. Quite thin but ok. Rest of route HVS/VS.
Danjones - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Owen (London)

Led P2 (free) and P4/5. Good route.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Dan Jones

Led last three pitches, run together. Unbalanced route I thought.
Stig - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12 with Chris

Took the "roundhead" option!
chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12 with James Rees

Owain Llewelyn - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Dan and Kris

Stone Muppet - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with Owain, dan ely

dan ely - 2nd rpt - 23/May/12 with crispin, owian

First route on Cloggy. Good. Crux traverse fine if you find the right footholds.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Sam

sgl - AltLd - 28/Mar/12 with Alex

Liam FLeming - 28/Mar/12

Led p2 free. Andy ran 3 & 4 together.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2012 with OffshoreAndy

Hidden - 2012

Direct start up Serf, in 2 pitches, I led from the belay after traverse in one pitch. Had a silly slip off due to trying to reverse a mossy move to check the wire I then loaded :-)
Dizz - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with brian

First Cloggy Route
Chris M - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with Graham R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11

five - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with AV

me p2, john p1,3and4.
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with John

In two pitches. Went wrong way andd headed straight up to the main corner at the top.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with George Ullrich

Got megga confused on this one. Could see the spike and the ledge but ended building a belay on the jugs, owain effectively top roped the stiff 5c move
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Owain

owain86 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Chris

4a, 5c, 4c, 4c, 4a - led P1 + P4/5
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with roslyn mckendry

mynyddresident - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with gareth

Me P1, Glynne P2, me P3 and 4 run together
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Tom

tomdude - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with rob

frost - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with Adam, D Garry

Baltic - had intended to then go on to the axe but bailed as it was just too cold.
mux - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with frost, Adam

Done clean without the pendulum. Stiff move on a almost blank slab. Great
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with Simon Frost, Dave Garry

Led in 2 long pitches
Billg - AltLd - 24/Apr/11 with Megan Beaumont

Lovely intricate climbing on main pitch
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 22/Apr/11 with Piers Nesbitt

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with dan ely

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with tim

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

lead pitches 2, 4 and 5
Laurence Everitt - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Cocky

adam coxsell - AltLd - 16/Aug/10 with laurence

Led 1st and 2nd pitches. 2nd free
Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Pete Lewis

Martin Cleaver - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/10 with Dom Selers

Using the pendulum after a very ill martin was sick all over the traverse! (sorry to the next party to follow us up)
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/10 with Martin Cleaver

brian watson - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with scott titt

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Marti

with pendulum
Tomprusk - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Nick

Nick Nitro - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Tom Parker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10

Hidden - Lead - May/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

zukator - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

soph - 2010

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Rich Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09

Fantastic route. Tom did really well to get the traverse clean onsight. Epic day out.
lazybones - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/09 with Tom Pearson

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Neil Pope

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - May/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Finished direct up the corner- felt like 5b/5c.
DannyK - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/08 with pep

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 27/Jul/08

morganator - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Sophie Whyte

barni - AltLd - 2008 with Paul James

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/07

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/07

With Pendulum Traditional Ascent !
rob1 - AltLd - 05/May/07 with Tom Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/07

Nicos - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with rich howels

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

shoulders - Lead - 25/Jul/06 with andy sharp

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/06

Si dH - AltLd dnf - 03/Jun/06 with Kane Chandler

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/06

mike lawrence? - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006 with Al leary

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

sadams - Lead O/S - 22/May/04 with Hugh Cottom

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/03 with Jill Singleton

Urgles - AltLd O/S - Jul/03 with Fed up

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

BenTiffin - AltLd - Aug/00 with Andy Bissell

WB - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Paul

D Tempest - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Chris, Rick

Ched - Lead O/S - 1998 with Glanfor

zero six - AltLd O/S - 1998

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/97 with Iain Boardman

rob.grafton - Lead - 1997 with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, Simon Wood

Duncan I - Jul/96 with Myles Jordan

GuyM - 1996

I led pitch one and pitch three
Chris Ellis - AltLd - 20/Jul/94 with Dan Morgan

biggianthead - 24/Jun/94 with HT

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1991 with Scott Titt

NickJH - 1991

Hidden - AltLd - 1989

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/87

Hidden - 1985

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 10/Jul/83 with Charlie Leverton

Soloed first pitch. Led second.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/83 with DAVID SMITH, Alan Bennett

Since climbed on several occasions(led all pitches)
uphillnow - AltLd - 02/Jul/83 with charlie french, Al Bennett

Hidden - AltLd - 1983

babymoac - Lead - 24/May/80 with MTW

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1980

RichardMc - Lead - 25/Aug/79 with Paul Richards

Led p2 (with lasso & pendulum as per guide, HVS, 1 pt, 1976 guide)
Pete Nugent - AltLd - Jul/79 with Pete Harris

With Frank ?? Done with the lasso.
Brian Wilderspin - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/78

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1978 with Psycho Mike from the Chester club?

Hidden - Lead - 1978

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 15/Oct/77 with Jim Worthington

Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jul/76 with Bob Millward

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/76

Mike Owen - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/76 with John Roberts

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/76

petemeads - Lead - 1976

sharpie - Lead O/S - Jul/75 with PL

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 13/Jun/75

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/74 with Dave Langmead

Hidden - Lead - 1974

But we did it with the pendulum - nowhere near 5c!
pneame - AltLd - 1973 with Eric Holligan

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/70

We had a good day, but a team of our climbing mates (GMW & WFH) were successful on Great Wall over to the right.
mikej - AltLd - 02/Sep/69 with Chris Fitzhugh

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris nutman, Just Another Dave, darrenpp, Jamie Skelton, Dan0Me, hutchay, andycash, Craigyboy13, Edvenables, mattrm, Col Kingshott, Ippikin, Ropeboy, JonmapDL, Alan100, CM1992, tlmarjot, Katex, Sebastien Gastaud, andy dunn, PeteWilson, rustaldo, johnpr, nigel pearson, obyrnechris, ColinD, Mike Goldthorp, sgl0jd, TRNovice

Total votes cast 67
hard E20 of 22
E21 of 22
easy E20 of 22
hard E12 of 22
E115 of 22
easy E12 of 22
hard HVS2 of 22
HVS0 of 22
easy HVS0 of 22
hard 6a0 of 22
6a0 of 22
easy 6a1 of 22
hard 5c2 of 22
5c15 of 22
easy 5c2 of 22
hard 5b2 of 22
5b0 of 22
easy 5b0 of 22
3 Stars12 of 23
2 Stars11 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat