72m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the UK's milestone routes for any aspiring hard climber which traces a majestic line up this stunning wall with initially technical climbing giving way to easier, but bolder moves higher up. Start on a grassy terrace below the high groove of Daurigol and to the right of some thin cracks that lead up the left-hand side of the Great Wall.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb up to a small overlap below a line of cracks. Climb these up and rightwards with difficulty until a reach gains a crack. Pull up into a depression to belay.
2) 5c, 35m. Climb up the crack and then a corner above (becoming thin on gear) to a left-facing groove and overlap. A memorable long move to a good hold leads quickly to a long ledge. Traverse right along this and back left to easier ground. © Rockfax

Ticklists: 15 Climbs to do before you die, Hard Rock, Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Ewan Russell 03/Oct AltLd dog

Fell off leading 2nd!

with Brad
breed 02/Oct AltLd O/S
soph 17/Aug 2nd rpt
with Pablo Martin
James Oakes 11/Jun Lead β

On Steve's gear

Ram MkiV 11/Jun Lead O/S

one long pitch. Brilliant.

with noaks, Al
Dan Vaj 11/Jun 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
Tubs 07/Jun 2nd β

A great lead from Dave, not least due to the very wet section on the P2 crux. Highly technical and absorbing climbing from bottom to top apart from the burly reach (wild leap?) rightwards for the jug on P2. I am surprised by all the E3 comments because much of the gear on the harder P1 was not beyond suspicion - then again I didn't lead it.

with Dave M
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead
Ed Babs 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Both pitches after Alex slipped on P1. Lots of chalk on the crux holds after all the dry weather. Much more gear on the first half of P2 than I was expecting. Glorious finish in the evening sun.

with AlexD
AlexD 30/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Aagh foot slipped on the crux! Tried several placements for the left foot before committing and found them all very slippery.

with Ed
AlexD 30/Jun/14 2nd
with Ed
nathanlee 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Doesn't dissapoint!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Low profile kept throughout the approach/climb, no troubles whatsoever.

Mr. K 21/Jun/14 2nd dnf

I seconded the first pitch with a rest at the crux to work out the sequence. Decided to pass on seconding pitch two so belayed James for his first E4 lead and we abbed down.

James Oswald 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. What an amazing route & my first E4. I'm glad I picked this one. One of the best climbing experiences I've ever had. The start of P1 was bold 5b but not really pumpy. It's mainly on your feet but getting to the gear was a relief. The climbing up until the crux was steep, balancey and strenuous but with pretty decent gear. * Beta There's a no-hands rest just before the crux which makes a big difference * The climbing to the belay after the crux is still technical and sustained but gets a little easier with a no-hands rest. P2 was a fair bit different.. The gear is reasonable but much less reliable. It's much smaller and relies much more on small wires and iffy gear. Though overall it's still relatively safe. The climbing from the belay gets gradually harder and more technical. Just before the crux traverse right I spent a long while stuffing the crack with half decent pieces of gear, together I think they'd have held me if I'd fallen off. The crux was brilliant, small footholds and big moves between sidepulls. Traversing across the ledge progressively further from your gear is scary, save a few quickdraws for the upper section (and for the peg). I probably placed 20ish pieces of gear in total, though the easy upper section with no quickdraws left was scary!! Amazing experience, 3*s.

Tom Livingstone 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with John Orr
Nick Russell 18/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Bailed after P1

Rachel Slater 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. Much easier than expected, surely most E3s in the peak are harder?!

Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
tim newton 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Very nice climb, goodness knows why it got upgraded from E3 though

Rob Pitt 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

with Lee Roberts
Luxulyan 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
Jack93 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch. It went so smoothly compared to Jim on the second when he dropped his RPs and almost fell off due to wet holds!

spidermonkey09 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Unreal lead from Jack first up. Run out to start, a way above small RP's, and then wet in the groove before the final reach right, which I held by the skin of my teeth before gibbering to the top. Dropping the rest of my RP's didn't help! What a route, its the obvious line of the wall and so pleased to have done it.

HAJ Francis ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


malx ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
jamesturnbull 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with will sim
pie_eater_pete 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
drysori 21/Jul/13 Lead

Fell of P1! Gutted. But P2 was a breeze, and I thought the gear was ok all the way.

with brannock
bwestwood 21/Jul/13 AltLd

2nd pitch

spidey 20/Jul/13 Lead β
with mat lamb
Mattlamb90 20/Jul/13 2nd β

Ry led both pitches, top effort pal!

with Ryan
Brannock 20/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead
Duncan Campbell 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Led P2. First pitch a bit harder but better protected, whilst the second relies upon many RPs. If you carry a decent selection of RPs it can be made safe though still feels bold. Good runners for the crux but they are below your feet. Amazing feeling stepping across onto the ledge with the whole of the Great Wall falling away beneath your feet!

with Ollie B
Ollie B 14/Jul/13 AltLd β

P1. Came off at the top of the groove, lowered and then did it. Quality route, worthy of its status!

with D.Campbell
dswansonlow 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

First pitch. Really great!!

shed_hed 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Took the second pitch. Nice climbing, glad I didn't hang around before committing on the crux.

mark20 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
Misha 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

What a great route! Doesn't feel much like a slab for most of the first pitch and the crux on the second pitch, despite looking slabby - go figure! A bit of an epic ascent as Phil started up P1 but thought better of it as there was no decent gear before the bulge, so I took over. The moves to the bulge were actually not too bad (more like 5a), getting over it was awkward and after that there was loads of 5b and 5c but with a few rests if you have the stamina! The crux was pretty easy for 6a (may be only hard 5c?) but required determination. Phil seconded quickly and set off up P2 but unfortunately ran out of stamina and couldn't recover after resting on a dodgy nut, so in the ended lowered off. Stance change over faff ensued. I then led P2 on Phil's gear to just below the first hard move. That section was fairly steady and I don't think it made that much difference not placing the gear but it was nice not having to worry about it - thanks, Phil! Some of the gear was a bit iffy but on the whole it wasn't that bold. The crux was tough but fair with sketchy feet but good enough hand holds. Again, perhaps only hard 5c. Easy but run out after that. Overall, I think it's a hard E3 but I'll have the E4 tick! Phil came up pretty quickly again. Had planned to do the last pitch of Jelly Roll but by now it was 7.20pm (having started at 3pm after doing Vember earlier in the day), so we scampered off back down, packed the tent, walked out in the sunset and were down in Llanberis at 10pm. A great end to a fantastic weekend of wild camping and climbing in great weather. Not a single midge in sight but loads of climbers on the crag! Back home at 1.15am and Phil still had to drive to his!

with Phil
Michael Allday 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
philhilo 08/Jun/13 2nd β

Hmmmm...fab route, not a fab effort - despite finding it relatively easy . . .on the second :-(

with misha
lukehunt 05/Jun/13 Lead
with Tom Ripley
captain ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
khawk 08/Sep/12 AltLd dog
with DT
Glyn 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
soph 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
willoates 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great climb, pretty steady really, has been on the ticklist for a while.

with Luke
Luke Brooks 29/May/12 AltLd rpt
with Will
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
thomasadixon 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Class. Led 2nd pitch.

with Mike
colesy 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

With Sarah

frank ramsay 03/Jul/11 AltLd

Good to do again after 23 years. Great route.

with Dave Turnbull
Dave Turnbull, BMC 03/Jul/11 AltLd rpt


with Frank Ramsey
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 04/Sep/10 Lead

Awesome route. Did it with my dad 41 years after he led it.

with Dad
centurion05 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

A truly great route, first E4 onsight. I lead first pitch and patch got second. The sidepull was wet but still do able.

with patch
Hidden 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Martin Cleaver 25/Jun/10 2nd
with Dom Selers
Somerset swede basher 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Martin Cleaver
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
barni 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

1st pitch

with luke
Chad123 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Wow, wow, wow....great climbing, felt pretty steady for E4, lead both pitches, first is one tricky move with loads of gear, second is bolder and more sustained and was a bit damp on the sidepull section, great airy traverse to finish though...go do it!

with Sam
sgl 05/Jun/10 2nd
with chad
Mike Goldthorp 26/May/10 Lead O/S

Got to lead both pitches, cheers Ben. Both awesome. Consistently sweet climbing & gear to keep things spicy, just made to climb! Cheers god.

with Ben Alsford
Hidden 26/May/10 2nd O/S
Alex Mason 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, hard crux. Second pitch has an amazing sequence! Scrambled round to the axe from the top in 3 hideous pitches.

with George Ullrich
Ed Booth 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Got to lead both pitches. Cheers Ad. Always dreamt of my first full day of climbing up at Clog and doing routes like Troach and Silhouette and Great wall. So pulling across on the side pulls of the second pitch crux in the glowing evening sun was a pretty special moment. Thought first pitch was hard and second pitch pretty steady away. Great day!

Adam Booth 17/Apr/10 2nd
zukator ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
lukehunt 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

first pitch

with Tom Brookes
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Brian Rodgers 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Ian Bruce
Pete Graham 27/Jul/08 Lead
with Rick Graham
datoon 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with RT
ChalkBall 31/May/08 2nd dog

Aided the crux move of the first pitch.

Luke Brooks 31/May/08 Lead O/S

Did it in the evening sun, and then watched the sun set over the sea from the belay at the top of the second pitch. Magic.

mr mills 23/May/08 Lead O/S

class !

with ioan d
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Hidden 11/Aug/07 AltLd dog
Rich Mayfield 10/Aug/07 AltLd

Totally pumped legs way too much walking :O)

Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 AltLd
with Choo
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
bronsonite 27/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Barrans
KRB 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Early morning ascent after a bivvi at the tarn. Excellent route - very different to expectations from the Hard Rock photos. Watched the Snowdon Marathon from a distance then joined in the run down from the summit. Great climb great day - great stack when in full flight Robert!

with Martin Bridges
Adam Ellwood 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S

2nd pitch

with Dave Evans
Bern ?/Jul/06 -
dan gibson 09/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with john nuttal
Boy ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
JulesV ??/2005 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 06/Jul/03 Lead
with Norman Clacher
tuftynick ??/2001 -
DJonsight ??/2000 -
D Tempest ??/2000 Lead
with Michelle
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/99 Lead rpt
Andy Edgar ??/1999 AltLd

Lead the first pitch, loong stretch o the crux

with Hugh Woodland
ellis ?/Sep/97 AltLd

Big fall from easy ground on P2

phardman 20/Jul/97 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/Apr/97 AltLd
with Jon Sykes, Muir Morton
phardman ??/1997 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
Hidden 25/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/95 AltLd rpt
richparry ??/1995 -
richparry ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
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Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
Campbell42 30/Jul/94 AltLd O/S

I lead first pitch, Chris the second pitch.

with Chris Wilson
shark 17/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/94 Lead
Nick Biven ??/1994 AltLd


PaulTanton ?/Jul/93 Lead O/S

I love this route. Done pitch 1 twice. It's well worth doing

with Smokin Dick
Roget 09/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with jon
Rich Kirby 28/Jun/92 AltLd O/S

I led the 2nd pitch.

with Andy Mackay
Mike Owen 16/May/92 AltLd rpt
with Al Phizackerlea
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/91 AltLd
with George reah
michael burrows 26/May/91 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with martin ackerley
Billg ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
jfletcher 13/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Glen Jones
mark-abz 13/May/90 Lead
with Ian D
Steve Crowe 06/May/90 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with owen jones
keefe ??/1990 -
Dave Douglas 25/Jul/89 AltLd O/S

Had to lower off from the top of the second pitch when the heavens opened. A few anxious moments when the downpour came as I had no gear for about 40 ft.

with Graeme Ettle
andybirtwistle 22/Jul/89 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
andybirtwistle 22/Jul/89 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
Pedro50 17/Jun/89 AltLd β
with Nigel Preston
craig d ??/1989 -
Mike Owen 23/Jun/88 Lead rpt
with Paul Mills
Hidden 22/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/88 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/88 Lead
sadams 12/Jun/88 AltLd
with Andy Mitchell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 14/May/88 2nd O/S
with Luke Steer
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/87 2nd
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 -
with Andy Popp
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Bob 03/Jun/85 Lead O/S

Only E3

with J. Topping
Hidden 03/Jun/85 2nd
Hidden ??/1985 -
charlesmfrench 26/Aug/84 AltLd rpt

Led first pitch. chris took a big fall on the second pitch onto a key ring type carabiner, when I told him not to just clip the bunch and carry on!

with Chris the body.
neilh 26/Jul/84 2nd

A good moc in the top pitch before the move right

with kevin glass
steve L 05/May/84 AltLd O/S
with Alun Richardson
charlesmfrench 16/Jul/83 2nd

Big fall leading second pitch.

with Alan Bennett
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S

Great route but why E4?

with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Hidden ??/1983 Lead dnf
Dave Musgrove 25/Jul/82 AltLd dog

I led P1 but grabbed a nut momentarily after placing it on the crux!

with Kim Greenald
Mark Kemball 14/Jul/82 Lead
with Dave Abbey
redjerry ?/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
with Bob Duncan
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
dominic lee ??/1981 AltLd
with daniel lee
Mike Owen 18/May/80 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
GeoffG ?/May/80 AltLd
with tony bowker
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead β

Swung leads, my first pitch.

with Graham Parkes
andy gittins ??/1980 Lead
with Mark Carnall
Hidden ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 AltLd
with Graham Parkes
sharpie 17/Jul/77 Lead O/S
with John Harwood
Hidden 04/Apr/77 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/75 AltLd dog
Hidden ??/1973 -
mikej 18/Oct/69 AltLd dnf

Too much seepage. Will had already done this route in early September and was doing me a favour by attempting to repeat it.

with Wil Hurford
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 41
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set