Great Wall*** E4 6a
[Patch high on Great Wall, 2 kb]72m, 2 pitches. One of the UK's milestone routes for any aspiring hard climber. It takes a majestic line up this stunning wall with initially technical climbing giving way to easier, but bolder moves higher up. 1) 6a, 25m. Climb up to a small overlap below a line of cracks. Climb these with difficulty until a reach gains a crack. Pull up into to a depression to belay. 2) 5c, 38m. Climb up the crack and then a corner above (becoming thin on gear). Make a long move to a good hold then traverse right and back left to easier ground. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: 15 Climbs to do before you die, Hard Rock, Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Patch high on Great Wall © Owain Llewelyn
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This climb is in 209 logbooks, and on 98 wishlists.

Both pitches after Alex slipped on P1. Lots of chalk on the crux holds after all the dry weather. Much more gear on the first half of P2 than I was expecting. Glorious finish in the evening sun.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/14 with AlexD

Aagh foot slipped on the crux! Tried several placements for the left foot before committing and found them all very slippery.
AlexD - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/14 with Ed

AlexD - 2nd - 30/Jun/14 with Ed

Led pitch 1. Doesn't dissapoint!
nathanlee - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Anna Gilyeat

Low profile kept throughout the approach/climb, no troubles whatsoever.
Rob Greenwood - UKC - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Nathan Lee

I seconded the first pitch with a rest at the crux to work out the sequence. Decided to pass on seconding pitch two so belayed James for his first E4 lead and we abbed down.
Mr. K - 2nd dnf - 21/Jun/14 with James Oswald

Lead both pitches. What an amazing route & my first E4. I'm glad I picked this one. One of the best climbing experiences I've ever had. The start of P1 was bold 5b but not really pumpy. It's mainly on your feet but getting to the gear was a relief. The climbing up until the crux was steep, balancey and strenuous but with pretty decent gear. * Beta There's a no-hands rest just before the crux which makes a big difference * The climbing to the belay after the crux is still technical and sustained but gets a little easier with a no-hands rest. P2 was a fair bit different.. The gear is reasonable but much less reliable. It's much smaller and relies much more on small wires and iffy gear. Though overall it's still relatively safe. The climbing from the belay gets gradually harder and more technical. Just before the crux traverse right I spent a long while stuffing the crack with half decent pieces of gear, together I think they'd have held me if I'd fallen off. The crux was brilliant, small footholds and big moves between sidepulls. Traversing across the ledge progressively further from your gear is scary, save a few quickdraws for the upper section (and for the peg). I probably placed 20ish pieces of gear in total, though the easy upper section with no quickdraws left was scary!! Amazing experience, 3*s.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Kyle Wood

P1
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with John Orr

Bailed after P1
Nick Russell - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/14

Lead pitch 1. Much easier than expected, surely most E3s in the peak are harder?!
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Tim Newton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14

Lead pitch 2. Very nice climb, goodness knows why it got upgraded from E3 though
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14 with rachel slater

Led both pitches
Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Lee Roberts

Lead the first pitch. It went so smoothly compared to Jim on the second when he dropped his RPs and almost fell off due to wet holds!
Jack93 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Jim Hulbert

P2. Unreal lead from Jack first up. Run out to start, a way above small RP's, and then wet in the groove before the final reach right, which I held by the skin of my teeth before gibbering to the top. What a route, its the obvious line of the wall and so pleased to have done it.
spidermonkey09 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Jack Knight

p1
HAJ Francis - AltLd O/S - Jun/14

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13 with will sim

pie_eater_pete - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with bwestwood

Fell of P1! Gutted. But P2 was a breeze, and I thought the gear was ok all the way.
drysori - Lead - 21/Jul/13 with brannock

2nd pitch
bwestwood - AltLd - 21/Jul/13

spidey - Lead β - 20/Jul/13 with mat lamb

Ry led both pitches, top effort pal!
Mattlamb90 - 2nd β - 20/Jul/13 with Ryan

Brannock - 2nd - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Conor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/13

Awesome! Led P2. First pitch a bit harder but better protected, whilst the second relies upon many RPs. If you carry a decent selection of RPs it can be made safe though still feels bold. Good runners for the crux but they are below your feet. Amazing feeling stepping across onto the ledge with the whole of the Great Wall falling away beneath your feet!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Ollie B

P1. Came off at the top of the groove, lowered and then did it. Quality route, worthy of its status!
Ollie B - AltLd β - 14/Jul/13 with D.Campbell

First pitch. Really great!!
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Darren McMaster

Took the second pitch. Nice climbing, glad I didn't hang around before committing on the crux.
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Led P1
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13

What a great route! Doesn't feel much like a slab for most of the first pitch and the crux on the second pitch, despite looking slabby - go figure! A bit of an epic ascent as Phil started up P1 but thought better of it as there was no decent gear before the bulge, so I took over. The moves to the bulge were actually not too bad (more like 5a), getting over it was awkward and after that there was loads of 5b and 5c but with a few rests if you have the stamina! The crux was pretty easy for 6a (may be only hard 5c?) but required determination. Phil seconded quickly and set off up P2 but unfortunately ran out of stamina and couldn't recover after resting on a dodgy nut, so in the ended lowered off. Stance change over faff ensued. I then led P2 on Phil's gear to just below the first hard move. That section was fairly steady and I don't think it made that much difference not placing the gear but it was nice not having to worry about it - thanks, Phil! Some of the gear was a bit iffy but on the whole it wasn't that bold. The crux was tough but fair with sketchy feet but good enough hand holds. Again, perhaps only hard 5c. Easy but run out after that. Overall, I think it's a hard E3 but I'll have the E4 tick! Phil came up pretty quickly again. Had planned to do the last pitch of Jelly Roll but by now it was 7.20pm (having started at 3pm after doing Vember earlier in the day), so we scampered off back down, packed the tent, walked out in the sunset and were down in Llanberis at 10pm. A great end to a fantastic weekend of wild camping and climbing in great weather. Not a single midge in sight but loads of climbers on the crag! Back home at 1.15am and Phil still had to drive to his!
Misha - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Phil

Michael Allday - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Bruce Houston

Hmmmm...fab route, not a fab effort - despite finding it relatively easy . . .on the second :-(
philhilo - 2nd β - 08/Jun/13 with misha

lukehunt - Lead - 05/Jun/13 with Tom Ripley

captain - 2013

captain - 2013

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

khawk - AltLd dog - 08/Sep/12 with DT

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Sophie

soph - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Glyn Hudson

Great climb, pretty steady really, has been on the ticklist for a while.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with Luke

Luke Brooks - AltLd rpt - 29/May/12 with Will

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

EagerAndy - Lead O/S - 2012

Class. Led 2nd pitch.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Mike

With Sarah
colesy - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

Good to do again after 23 years. Great route.
frank ramsay - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Dave Turnbull

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - 2011

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Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

phil64 - 2011

mwatson - AltLd O/S - 2011

Awesome route. Did it with my dad 41 years after he led it.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Dad

A truly great route, first E4 onsight. I lead first pitch and patch got second. The sidepull was wet but still do able.
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10 with patch

Martin Cleaver - 2nd - 25/Jun/10 with Dom Selers

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10 with Martin Cleaver

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10

1st pitch
barni - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with luke

Wow, wow, wow....great climbing, felt pretty steady for E4, lead both pitches, first is one tricky move with loads of gear, second is bolder and more sustained and was a bit damp on the sidepull section, great airy traverse to finish though...go do it!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Sam

sgl - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with chad

Got to lead both pitches, cheers Ben. Both awesome. Consistently sweet climbing & gear to keep things spicy, just made to climb! Cheers god.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 26/May/10 with Ben Alsford

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/10

Led first pitch, hard crux. Second pitch has an amazing sequence! Scrambled round to the axe from the top in 3 hideous pitches.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with George Ullrich

Got to lead both pitches. Cheers Ad. Always dreamt of my first full day of climbing up at Clog and doing routes like Troach and Silhouette and Great wall. So pulling across on the side pulls of the second pitch crux in the glowing evening sun was a pretty special moment. Thought first pitch was hard and second pitch pretty steady away. Great day!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

Adam Booth - 2nd - 17/Apr/10 with Ed Booth

zukator - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

first pitch
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Tom Brookes

Seymore Butt - 2009

Led both pitches.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Ian Bruce

Pete Graham - Lead - 27/Jul/08 with Rick Graham

datoon - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with RT

Aided the crux move of the first pitch.
ChalkBall - 2nd dog - 31/May/08 with Luke Brooks

Did it in the evening sun, and then watched the sun set over the sea from the belay at the top of the second pitch. Magic.
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Ryan Brooks

class !
mr mills - Lead O/S - 23/May/08 with ioan d

tuftynick - 2008

Hidden - AltLd dog - 11/Aug/07

Totally pumped legs way too much walking :O)
Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 10/Aug/07 with Mark Stevenson

Toby Dunn - 2007

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd - 2007 with Choo

Hidden - Lead - Aug/06

bronsonite - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/06 with Dave Barrans

Early morning ascent after a bivvi at the tarn. Excellent route - very different to expectations from the Hard Rock photos. Watched the Snowdon Marathon from a distance then joined in the run down from the summit. Great climb great day - great stack when in full flight Robert!
KRB - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/06 with Martin Bridges

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

Bern - Jul/06

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/06 with john nuttal

Boy - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2005

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 06/Jul/03 with Norman Clacher

tuftynick - 2001

DJonsight - 2000

D Tempest - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Chris, Rick

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/99

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Jul/99

Big fall from easy ground on P2
ellis - AltLd - Sep/97 with Ally Coull

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 12/Apr/97 with Jon Sykes, Muir Morton

phardman - 1997

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/95 with Nick Ashton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Jun/95

richparry - 1995

richparry - 1995

Hidden - 1995

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Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

I lead first pitch, Chris the second pitch.
Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/94 with Chris Wilson

shark - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/94 with John Codling

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/94

Hidden - Lead - Jun/94

P1
Nick Biven - AltLd - 1994 with Ian McNeill

I love this route. Done pitch 1 twice. It's well worth doing
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Jul/93 with Smokin Dick

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/93 with jon

I led the 2nd pitch.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/92 with Andy Mackay

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - Jun/91 with George reah

led 1st pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 26/May/91 with martin ackerley

Billg - Lead O/S - 1991 with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/90 with Glen Jones

mark-abz - Lead - 13/May/90 with Ian D

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with owen jones

keefe - 1990

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Had to lower off from the top of the second pitch when the heavens opened. A few anxious moments when the downpour came as I had no gear for about 40 ft.
Dave Douglas - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/89 with Graeme Ettle

Pedro50 - AltLd β - 17/Jun/89 with Nigel Preston

craig d - 1989

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/88

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/88

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/88

sadams - AltLd - 12/Jun/88 with Andy Mitchell

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd O/S - 14/May/88 with Luke Steer

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1988 with Paul Greenland

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/87

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

mark mcgowan01 - 1986 with Andy Popp

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Only E3
Bob - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/85 with J. Topping

Melok - 1985

Led first pitch. chris took a big fall on the second pitch onto a key ring type carabiner, when I told him not to just clip the bunch and carry on!
charlesmfrench - AltLd rpt - 26/Aug/84 with Chris the body.

A good moc in the top pitch before the move right
neilh - 2nd - 26/Jul/84 with kevin glass

Big fall leading second pitch.
charlesmfrench - 2nd - 16/Jul/83 with Alan Bennett

Great route but why E4?
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Robert Kieske ('Flog')

I led P1 but grabbed a nut momentarily after placing it on the crux!
Dave Musgrove - AltLd dog - 25/Jul/82 with Kim Greenald

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

redjerry - AltLd O/S - Jul/82 with Bob Duncan

Hidden - Lead - 1982

dominic lee - AltLd - 1981 with daniel lee

Mike Owen - 18/May/80 with Elaine Watson

GeoffG - AltLd - May/80 with tony bowker

Swung leads, my first pitch.
Chris Craggs - Lead β - 1980 with Graham Parkes

andy gittins - Lead - 1980 with Mark Carnall

Hidden - 1980

Chris Craggs - AltLd - 1980 with Graham Parkes

sharpie - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/77 with John Harwood

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/77

steve L - 1977

Hidden - AltLd dog - 26/Jun/75

Hidden - 1973

Too much seepage
mikej - AltLd dnf - 18/Oct/69 with Wil Hurford

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Voting
Total votes cast 107
hard E50 of 36
E50 of 36
easy E50 of 36
hard E40 of 36
E425 of 36
easy E45 of 36
hard E34 of 36
E32 of 36
easy E30 of 36
hard 6b0 of 37
6b0 of 37
easy 6b0 of 37
hard 6a3 of 37
6a27 of 37
easy 6a4 of 37
hard 5c2 of 37
5c1 of 37
easy 5c0 of 37
3 Stars33 of 34
2 Stars1 of 34
1 Star0 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf