75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic outing taking the central line of the buttress with some devious moves. Start on the large ledge gained by a scramble up the gully/chimney.
1) 4b, 22m. Climb the groove, taking the left branch until you reach a niche 2m below the capping roof. Arrange some gear and make a balancy move back right to regain the main groove-system and belay almost immediately on a small ledge below a steepening.
2) 4a, 22m. Follow the corner-crack which soon slabs off and leads up to a large ledge and block belay.
3) 4b, 20m. Step down from the belay and pull left onto the steep wall. Stand up and get established in the small groove, before traversing left on good holds to the base of another groove. Follow this up to a ledge. Belay over left on the tree. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Its a lovely climb but the rock is pretty rotten on pitch 3, with some really loose large blocks which unfortunately also look like lovely inviting hand holds! Not hard, just a little scary because of this.

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Menlove Routes, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Hidden 02/Nov AltLd
Matt1234 04/Oct AltLd O/S
greglad 27/Sep -
Wayne S 26/Sep AltLd O/S
with Dale
D Berry 26/Sep AltLd O/S

Led P1 + P2 combined.

with Wayne S
Hidden 26/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep AltLd
andy75 09/Sep AltLd O/S
with cem
Davesmith1981 07/Sep Lead
with Tim Oates
kez1 ?/Sep Lead
with Frankie davies
Hidden 31/Aug AltLd O/S
Keith Swainson 30/Aug AltLd O/S
with Georgie
Georgie25 30/Aug AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug -
cymjt 18/Aug Lead O/S

P1+2, 3. Pitch 3 seems fairly solid, but probably still requires care.

with David K
David Kay 18/Aug 2nd
alanblyth 16/Aug AltLd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 16/Aug AltLd O/S

Alt leads with Alan. I led the first pitch (soaking wet), Alan took the 2nd and I solo'd the third (gear was too fiddly to bother with considering the difficulty of the moves)

with Alan
andrewmcleod 03/Aug AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and half of pitch 2. Zack led the rest. Raining!

Hidden 03/Aug AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 25/Jul AltLd O/S

Led p3

with Alex S
Jack Manfredi 19/Jul AltLd
MYox 18/Jul Lead
with Barbara
cornishbekx 18/Jul 2nd O/S
martin c 11/Jul Lead O/S

Steep top pitch but good holds.

with Katy W
Julie Carroll 11/Jul AltLd
with Tristan Graham
Mark Kemball 11/Jul 2nd
with Clair Wilson
Hidden 10/Jul Lead O/S
Dazluke2000 05/Jul 2nd O/S
leethebee 03/Jul Lead O/S
with Stella Wyn Thomas
wi11 29/Jun Solo O/S

Nice climb before work :)

hazeysunshine 27/Jun AltLd rpt
with Tassie Anna
ads 27/Jun Lead
Stopsy 24/Jun AltLd O/S
with Rowan
Roo123 24/Jun AltLd
Patrick Clissold 24/Jun AltLd O/S
with Jonny Hawkins
Pero 19/Jun Lead
pete1993 15/Jun AltLd rpt

really good easy fun climbing

with Ben
Sam Ash 15/Jun AltLd O/S

P1+2 run together

amccann 15/Jun AltLd O/S
with Sam A
benkelsey 15/Jun AltLd O/S

p3. better than pinnacle to the left

Hidden 15/Jun Lead
cem 13/Jun AltLd rpt

Led p 3 & 4.

Kirill 13/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun AltLd
Andrew Lester 28/May AltLd
Alessandro Tentori 25/May 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
keithlambley 23/May AltLd
with Mary L, Kate R
Simon Alden 15/May AltLd O/S
with Hilary Lawrenson
lost.arrow 01/May -
noemie5438 26/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr AltLd rpt
ianstevens 22/Apr AltLd

Not VS in any way, shape or form. Nice climbing though. Watch out for loseness on P3.

Hidden 22/Apr AltLd O/S
Lucylou19 16/Apr Lead dnf

Led pitch 3 after bailing from Spectre

with Chris Brook
alexwolf47 16/Apr 2nd O/S
Phil.Rudd 16/Apr 2nd O/S
Stephen Cave 16/Apr AltLd O/S
beckyjg 15/Apr 2nd
jalqazzaz 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Becky
davenev 14/Apr AltLd O/S
with Graham
Hidden 14/Apr AltLd O/S
Sol Armer 08/Apr Lead O/S
gravity 08/Apr AltLd rpt

A great route. I led pitch 1. I had previously seconded it, some years ago.

with Khalid Qasrawi
khalidq 08/Apr AltLd O/S

I led 2nd pitch then we abseiled off.

JosephTATaylor 08/Apr 2nd
Teappleby 08/Apr Lead
Hidden 08/Apr 2nd
DBoothroyd 07/Apr AltLd O/S

Good climb, but some very loose stuff on P3. One huge block just after the traverse is particularly worrying, as it looks quite solid at first glance.

with Joe Mortimer
JoeMortimer 07/Apr AltLd

Great climb, with nice views of the pass. Watch out on P3 as mentioned above, there is a sizeable block that is VERY loose.

GordonAinslie ?/Apr -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Gillieshill ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
jt232 23/Nov/14 AltLd

I dropped my gold helium cam from the 3rd pitch, if anyone finds it please let me know!

Remyveness 23/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Pleasant climb, stay right on the first pitch to arrive at the fairly cramped hanging belay off two parallel cracks. Easy second pitch, followed by and exposed start to the third pitch.

Alister123 23/Oct/14 2nd
with Remy Veness, James Thyng
Matthew Glenn 14/Oct/14 Lead
with Sam Pollit
sampollitt 14/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Ian MK 29/Sep/14 2nd
with Anna
bob johnson 28/Sep/14 AltLd

better than i remembered - first pitch a wee bit glassy second pitch tremendous - even with the wobbly spike

with Rich Ball
Anna Maykova 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Did P1 and P2 in one pitch. Found P3 a bit more thrilling. Climbing is not hard but gear is a bit sparse. Could only find bad placements for 2 tiny cams on the whole pitch which were more for confidence rather than protection. When Ian led this pitch as the final pitch of Spectre he managed to find 2 nut placements. Oh well there is still more to learn!

with Ian
JohnMetcalfe 23/Sep/14 2nd

tried to lead pitch 2 but got stuck on the crux and had to back off!

with Andy Wilson
Matt Schwarz 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

katie lead 1 and half of 2, then i did rest to top of 3 then abbed down.

with katie
dtalbot 21/Sep/14 AltLd
with Wm
Hidden 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Katie S 21/Sep/14 AltLd
MrJWilliams92 15/Sep/14 -
joedoherty 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
A Mountain Journey 07/Sep/14 Lead

Enjoyable climbing with good positions. Damp initial moves made me less trusting of my feet!

with Kate
KateA 07/Sep/14 2nd
georgenvk 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Becks87
Becks87 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with George
GermanAlex 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead first 2 pitches as one, Nigel lead last pitch.

with Nigel
ralphio 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3. Didn't think much of the first two pitches but the third was wonderful. Not too hard once commited but lovely and exposed. Thought the gear was a big sparse in places.

with Maumau
Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Luke Spiers
KKilroy ?/Sep/14 -
tobydunford 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Sarah Black 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
mattfarr 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Simon
Rob84 22/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
with Mel
planetmarshall 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

There is a very large and unstable block on the steep wall above the belay at the start of the third pitch. Treat with caution.

with Helen Mort
Cerris90 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
marvin1987 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
LakesWinter 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

The note in the description about loose rock isn't really true imho, there's one loose block on P3 after about 3m.

with Phil B
philboy 31/Jul/14 AltLd
with matt g
Jenny Hall 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
AndrewP 21/Jul/14 Lead

On MIA training

andyclimber 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

What a cracking climb. Lovely exposure with good holds. Searching out the dry places for hands and feet for the first 25ft added to the excitement! First pitch is the best although the belay is cramped. Lead first and second pitches, then abseiled off.

Angeline 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Seconded the first and second pitches; freaked out a bit during my first hanging belay! Who would have thought that a hanging belay would be scarier than trusting some slightly wet footholds? Abseiling down from the second pitch, though, was fantastic.

with Andy
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Solo
Hidden 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Heather Osborne 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 13/Jul/14 AltLd

Climbed after work with Emily and Harry, I led pitches 2 and 3.

erbridger 13/Jul/14 AltLd

Climbed 1st pitch - over climbed up slab.

Denry 10/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Nice evening climb. I led middle pitch. Some exciting and exposed moves, and, especially at the top, loose rock.

with Rhys Bowen-Harries
scott mayled 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Easy VS, gear is good throughout. The belay stances for pitch 1 is a little hard to spot on route. Would do the 44m pitch up to the better stance in future.

ashsleight 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Easy at VS. Solid gear throughout. Didn't do the last pitch due to advice from other posts.

with Scotty
Hidden 02/Jul/14 AltLd
Max19 ?/Jul/14 AltLd
robpartridge ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Noddy
charlielow 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4 - such an epic route! P1-3 were awesome, not really worth doing the 4th pitch, had to abseil off a tree down to P3 belay stance and ab down properly from there.

CathS 29/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

with Dave Clark, Kev Bowser
James12389 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3, loved the start moves on P3 and based on the amount of cobwebs the spiders do too!

JDG2428 29/Jun/14 2nd
stonemikey 29/Jun/14 Lead
cpt_crunch 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with matt lally
Nigel Coe 26/Jun/14 AltLd
with Pete Kelly
climbingrev 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Peter led first, I lead through to 2nd, then ab'd off. Nice, good climbing on a lovely crag. Nothing too tricky.

poeter210 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
valentinesbabe 23/Jun/14 AltLd

Kev led p1and p2 in a oner, I led 3and 4 in a oner. P4 isn't that great and mega rope drag if you run it with 3. The start to p3 is great, very exposed :-) real fun move

Tithe Technique 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I lead p1 and p2, Ange lead p3 and p4

charley 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Ange, Kev
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
simonsclimbing 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
SimonvanDam 20/Jun/14 AltLd
useful 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Dan
Hidden 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/14 2nd
jack 9895 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Goodstuff 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P3, great bold position on the headwall, the 50m abseil is cracking too.

with Jack, WillDoyle
K Dawg 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Kit
tim newton 15/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
leeds_belle 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

We had originally planned to do Hazel Groove. I didn't like the look of the traverse left to the tree so decided to do Nea instead. Lead P1, 2 & 3. We did P4 as well but discovered the descent gully was wet so we had to ab down.

with Zylo
shed_hed 13/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lester 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
JenRoberts 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Ollie
jon59 01/Jun/14 Lead
Luxulyan 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tess Lyons
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd
Rob Evans ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
SimonMarcYoung 30/May/14 AltLd O/S

Did half of pitch 2 and all of pitch 3 as we split the route into two

alaster tonge 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Lailah, Assad Lahlou
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd
Qureshi 15/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 05/May/14 AltLd O/S

Another lovely grochan VS. pretty easy all the way but the last pitch feels very airy. Lead pitches 1 & 3

with jamesA
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
adamre12 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice climbing with an easier second pitch, and bold 3rd.

Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Pryan ?/May/14 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Robin Brooke ?/May/14 Lead
BTphonehome 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Matt
Matt_C9716 30/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead
Samuel Wainwright 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead
ads 18/Apr/14 AltLd
with Julie
MoWalker3 18/Apr/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Mr Messy 16/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Julie
Julie 16/Apr/14 2nd
with Matt
Matt Harmon 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

led P2

Anna duckett 12/Apr/14 AltLd
with Matt H
guy757 11/Apr/14 -
Hidden 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
ian d f 15/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
with Mark
markfromstoke 15/Mar/14 AltLd
with Ian
Hidden 14/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/14 AltLd
Andrew will wilson ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 AltLd
with denry
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
rob 528 ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
john_ni 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2. Also did start of pitch one of Spectre - up to the ledge. NOTE - there is a large 2ft x 6" block on the right of the small groove of the top pitch (4), about 15 ft up just before head leftwards. Its an inviting handhold but is just sitting there - it needs tumbled, but will fall all the way down the route & can't see the bottom.

ben8522 26/Sep/13 Lead
Jack Manfredi 21/Sep/13 -
Alkis 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. P1 was mostly soaking yet but that didn't cause much trouble to either of us.

gazfellows 31/Aug/13 Lead

Yet another bangin route in the pass. Well worthy of 3stars !! Really don't understand why the majority are voting 2stars?? Absolute class :))

with Nic
rob.grafton 26/Aug/13 Lead
with Jim
Curly Rich 23/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with GMC Tris
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 03/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd
Bry 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Pryan ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Robin Brooke ?/Aug/13 Lead

Led p1, 3. Bit wet to start, not a lot of Nat pro on p3. Nice climb and easy abseil descent

robgixer ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Didymus 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S


with Remo
Hidden 24/Jul/13 2nd
Louis Hume 24/Jul/13 Lead
ollyroberts 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Did in 2 pitches. I did pitch 1 and belayed half way up slab.

benscarter 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Jack
piersnewton 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd half of pitch 2 and pitch 3

jwpil 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben
Hidden 21/Jul/13 -
R Spisser 21/Jul/13 AltLd
with Alasdair Monteith
skippyridgway 18/Jul/13 Solo rpt

very hot conditions - did it on my own to mark last day in Nant Peris :-)

rd20 16/Jul/13 AltLd
with Ben Ram
thecurlyone 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

A lovely climb for a lovely evening! Every time i do this route i like it more. Great to climb it with Robert too!

with Robert Dufton
Chris dyer 16/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Tom Moores
jcasey2436 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 2 together. Joe lead 3

Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead
alicelarkin 06/Jul/13 2nd β
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
Zoomer 03/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Soaking wet first pitch, bailed at the top of pitch 2 due to rain. Great climbing with very good gear. Looking forward to finishing it.

Jules 210681 03/Jul/13 AltLd

didnt do last pitch, started to rain, so abbed off!

Hidden 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
CurlyStevo ?/Jul/13 Lead

lead all pitches

with Rob
robbraby ?/Jul/13 2nd

nice climb. final pitch lets it down a bit with quite a bit of loose rock including large lump right where you want to grab doing one of the crux moves.

with Steveo
Skinny Kin 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Bit wet in the corner of 1st pitch. Otherwise quite good. Not as hard as Phantom Rib.

with Joe
Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd
Trobbo 09/Jun/13 AltLd
with Matt Reed
j.buckley87 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 07/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Kirsten
kirsten 07/Jun/13 Lead


cem 02/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Led p 1 & 3

Hidden 30/May/13 2nd
Hidden 30/May/13 Lead
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd rpt
JonathanJones 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Done pitch 1 and a bit and pitch 4

vyl20 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Celyn
Chriswallis2 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
augustus trout 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Stevie G
Hidden 20/May/13 Lead O/S
francesanncavanagh 20/May/13 2nd
with Craig Fussy Pants Letham
beds74 07/May/13 Lead

Great climb. People say isn't a classic...what more do they want?! Lovely. Did last pitch too, two abs down.

with Rebecca Edwards
Murr64 07/May/13 2nd O/S
with Bill Strachan
Hidden 07/May/13 AltLd
Ray Sparks 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
with pete ranstead
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
tommy 06/May/13 AltLd

middle pitch is not as easy as it looks and the top pitch is hard to get gear placements

staceyjg 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Chris led p1 & p3, I led p2 & p4

minaturechris 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Stacey
Hidden 02/May/13 2nd
sheelba 01/May/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Bex_M 26/Apr/13 AltLd β
with Scott, Claire Ellwood
andyjirvin 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Easy but exctiting climbing, with a strong and obvious line. For both me and Mike found it a way more enjoyable experience. We did it in two pitches, there's an easy belay halfway along the slab. Top pitch steep exposed and loose - great fun!

Metalbear 06/Apr/13 AltLd
with Matthew Brown, John James McEvoy
BenRyle 26/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Dan
Dan724 26/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Very easy with one proper pitch

chris ginge ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
neilh ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Naomi2003 ??/2013 AltLd

My first VS lead. Patrick lead 1&4 as it was wet I lead 2nd and 3rd.

with Patrick Hutchinson
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd O/S
Little Amy ??/2013 2nd O/S
with Paul
Stuart_Burbidge 18/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Wet start, climb good but quality variable, not 3 stars as guide. Exposure good. Descent horrific (top an left) dont advise!

bede.west 18/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

wet, descent horrible

with stu
CM1992 07/Oct/12 Lead

Great climb if a fair bit damp at the start, well worth it's classic status. Only did the first 2 pitches as we'd heard the last 2 weren't worth bothering with. The first 2 pitches are easily worth 3*

Chris Manasseh 09/Sep/12 AltLd

Led P1 + 3. Abbed off after P3.

with John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 09/Sep/12 AltLd


Hidden 08/Sep/12 -
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead
thecurlyone 14/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Unexpectedly good weather in the evening, and what a nice climb to enjoy it with.

with Rich Gentry
SAF 09/Aug/12 2nd
with Mark
ldadams ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Fowler
bwestwood 31/Jul/12 Lead


Skullfire 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Another classic climb, loved the exposure of the left step out/traverse on the 3rd pitch.

with Jun Minohara
Mackinclimb 15/Jul/12 AltLd
JessWilliams ?/Jul/12 2nd
with Peter, Dad
Dan Vaj 06/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
efrance24234 28/May/12 Lead O/S
Big Lee 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 & 3. First two pitches felt like HS climbing. Third pitch a little more challenging as not much gear for the traverse moves left. Large loose block halfway up the third pitch (although wasn't obvious until I had passed it). Good route. Phantom Rib slightly better.

MikeLell 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Lee Harrison
Hidden 24/May/12 AltLd
Double Knee Bar 20/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lead on 2nd. Good 3rd pitch. Watch out for large loose juggy spike (2'x1') about 5 metres after stance on third pitch. If that thing goes its landing straight on the belayer.

with Iain
paddy1024 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/12 2nd
EllieWoods 06/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Rain and hail!

with Lucy
treg 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

I led P1&2 together, Dan did P3.

with Dan Osbaldeston
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead
DanOsb 05/May/12 AltLd

matt lead 1&2. i lead 3, awesome exposed climbing on pitch 3. dont mind the waterfall on pitch 1 its short lived.

LouMullen 29/Mar/12 2nd β
with Garry Smith, Mark Gylby
Hidden 28/Mar/12 Lead
Duncan Campbell 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Did first 4c pitch of Spectre then, into this as a nice warm down. Also seconded Ollie on SS SPecial and The Stebbing. Nice to revisit them on the blunt end.

with Ollie B
Hidden 25/Mar/12 -
Ollie B 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S

In one pitch upto P2 ab

with D.Campbell
Hexman 24/Mar/12 2nd
with EdO, Andy Holder
Stumpyham 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jody Vallance
Hidden 14/Mar/12 -
Harri777 11/Mar/12 AltLd
with Danushka, jt
Hidden 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Yong_Welsh 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Harry, Tom
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd
cmsg 15/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 3. Alarming loose block on 3.

with Llewelyn Thomas
A Crook 15/Jan/12 AltLd rpt
Dom Whillans 15/Jan/12 AltLd
with a.crook
Darron ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
bwestwood ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
JamesP ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
roberts1234567890 14/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
SimonvanDam 14/Nov/11 AltLd
melonmike 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Ewan Chamings
Jams Crwca 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

1st/3rd pitch, 1st was drippin wet

with Justin
tim.fairhall 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Hui
bwestwood 03/Oct/11 Lead
kristinawe 29/Sep/11 2nd
Bennykr 28/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
scottski 27/Sep/11 Lead β

wet first 10m after that very nice climbing

adi bryant 13/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Great lead by Lee,first 2 pitchs certainly not in the lee, of hurricane katia's wind n rain. 3rd pitch good too.

with Lee
mr mills 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with dionne
Tom Cox 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
stonemikey 01/Sep/11 AltLd

Pitches 1 + 2

with Dom Gill
flatland_warrior 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
SteveJCox 01/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Falko 31/Aug/11 Lead rpt

First pitch a little damp. Jonathen climbed very well. Climbed all pitches and descended the gully - would not do this in the rain! Went back to Ynys for lunch!

with Jonathan Rech
dpiddock 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom Jones
tsjx 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

With Dan. I lead pitches 1 & 3.

claregardiner 29/Aug/11 Lead

Pitch 4 not worth bothering with, had to down climb it anyway to get back to abseil point after aborting on wet sketchy gully descent

richyg 29/Aug/11 -
arthurraffle98 28/Aug/11 AltLd
with Tim Raffle
Lawrie Brand 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Joe
kirsten 17/Aug/11 2nd
with John Kettle, Emily Carr
Alex Thompson 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Felt tricky after all the easier routes!

Hidden 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
willoates 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

good last pitch.

with Iona, Lotta
Hidden 05/Aug/11 AltLd
jezb1 03/Aug/11 AltLd

Nice top pitch

Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
vertically_challenged 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
skippyridgway 31/Jul/11 AltLd β

Classic. Led pitched 1 and 3. Windy conditions made pitch 3 exciting!

with Ali Thomas
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led in 2 pitches, led 1st.

with Pete S
alexjz 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Brecht Morris
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Dibdawg 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Forced climb to retrieve ropes left over night on Spectre from ab. decent.

with Terry Smith, Mark Sheridan
whiting.jp 10/Jul/11 AltLd
with jamesca
jasonpm 04/Jul/11 AltLd
with Arla IMC, Steve IMC
Different Steve 04/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
with Jason, Ala
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd
hazeysunshine 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Helen L
Dan Geh 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

bit damp

tgeh 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with dan geh
Hidden 25/Jun/11 AltLd
Anthony Dixon 21/Jun/11 AltLd

did pitch 1 and half of second. Rained off at the top of P2

Blurgy319 18/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Dave Gleave
joeydurkin 14/Jun/11 AltLd
with Andy w
chris687 13/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
garethsteel 13/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
lilliyan 10/Jun/11 -
with Ewan
benchwarmer 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Simon Cahill 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead middle pitch

with Sam Benson
Hidden 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
smallerrich 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Did it in 2 pitch's

with Dan R
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
matt0759 28/May/11 AltLd
wirralclimber1984 28/May/11 AltLd O/S
with richard matthias
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
ritchierich 03/May/11 AltLd rpt

Pitch 2 for me this time.

Noodles 03/May/11 AltLd


kdalzell 03/May/11 AltLd
with Neil Pope
Hidden 03/May/11 AltLd
Ian JL 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd
Clarky10 ?/May/11 -
with Ben Matthews
pawelx 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead in 2 pitches. First was wet and unpleasant, second was well protected and had nice moves.

The Bad Cough 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt
The Bad Cough 27/Apr/11 2nd rpt

First two pitches to retreive some gear out of Spectre after someone had a leader fall.

jon22 27/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
cem 22/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
with Dave Amos
Col Kingshott 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Daymo 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with DJ
deejmonkey 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Damian
Sam Marland 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

let pitch 3 and 4

Andy_B39 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Sam Marland
carlh 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

With Dan Wilson. Sunny day, great climb - bit damp at start. Abseil off (50 metres to ground ledge)

stevepotter 16/Apr/11 AltLd
with Aaron V
avin_a_look 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Ceridwen 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

First pitch was wet, second is polished and the third is bold. Despite all this its a very good route!

with Heather
Blurgy319 08/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Marks one thousandth different climb!!!

david morse 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Lawrence
HIGHTOWER 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Katy Nelson ?/Apr/11 AltLd
with Josh
Hidden ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
myoung 27/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Heather
HeatherF 27/Mar/11 AltLd rpt
with Mark
gd303uk 24/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
daveyb 24/Mar/11 -
Hidden 23/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
brianrunner ??/2011 -
jon59 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Bob ??/2011 -
birdie num num ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
ColinD ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
pasbury ??/2011 -
Mark Salter ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

with gavin, boots, steep thrutchy

Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
james chesmer ??/2011 AltLd O/S
with Ben Barton
Ala the 'cat' Piatkowska ??/2011 2nd
with Steve Culverhouse
Callum T 06/Nov/10 -
libby.southgate 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S

First outdoor trad! Steve and Callum alt/lead (Led 1 pitch of a different climb up to a tree on the left of the climb's base afterwards, no idea what it was called though.)

with Steve Mullan, Callum Tayor
Katex 25/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Simon Edwards
Hidden 17/Oct/10 AltLd
Paul Bailey 13/Oct/10 2nd
minus273degrees 10/Oct/10 2nd dnf

good climb hardest id done so far got me away from the easier grades and let me know what i should be climbing

Scotsken ?/Oct/10 -
Lee Groves ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Allington
r.greaves 26/Sep/10 2nd
with neil, aled davies
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Darrell Read 04/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd
Jen Crook 02/Sep/10 AltLd


with Will Marshall
Keith Jones 01/Sep/10 AltLd
with Chris
christoph owen 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

me p1 + p3, keith p2

Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 30/Aug/10 2nd

Traversed in from the top of P2 of Spectre.

Abevan 30/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
with Andy Wright
mtempest 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Dazzlin 15/Aug/10 2nd
with Nick Harvey, Ross Davidson
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead dnf
nigsims 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Nig Caton
chri55ie 13/Aug/10 AltLd

Lead the first pitch, Tony the 2nd and Alan the 3rd

with Tony Marchant, Alan Gill
JasonV 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Mike Doyle
Goody 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch.

Howard J 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

I led the first (crux) and third pitches. Excellent throughout, with some tricky moves. Abbed off the tree after Pitch 3, because that's where the Pokketz guide says it finishes.

Ewan Russell 21/Jul/10 Solo rpt
with Myself!
climbinmunkey 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

We did the route in two pitches as a warm up. Only just makes VS due to a couple of bold feeling exposed moves. Gear sound and climbing enjoyable.

with Ken
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead
carl_123 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Elizabeth Noyes 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
s.c.white 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Peter Metcalfe 20/Jun/10 AltLd
wilchivs 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Lenny 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S
stuart34 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
gilbert 12/Jun/10 2nd rpt

A bit of a long one. A struggle of a lead not helped by a team climbing onto the wrong line from Phantom Rib

with Joe RAFMA
Hidden 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Wilbur 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P3. Pretty poorly protected and probably why the route as a whole gets VS. Not sure why it's in classic rock though - fairly average.

with Caine
twodada 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Steve GH
Dunx 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Joe M
joeym 04/Jun/10 AltLd
viking ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

quite easy for VS

with wilbur
Hidden ?/Jun/10 AltLd
steve prior ?/Jun/10 AltLd
with Andy C
ian caton 31/May/10 2nd rpt
with Abi
Abi Chard 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ian
Mr. K 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch, abbed off after 3rd.

Hidden 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 2nd
Hidden 27/May/10 Lead
Jillybean 20/May/10 AltLd
with Martyn
Noodles 20/May/10 AltLd

P1,P3 P3 = Bold

groovy_nut 17/May/10 AltLd rpt


with Matt K
Monkey_Alan 16/May/10 Lead O/S

WMC Classic Rock weekend: Nea. Four vastly contrasting pitches. P3 steep, poorly protected and possibly loose. Reversed top pitch and abseiled off the tree.

tev 16/May/10 2nd
with Alan B
bigbobbyking 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Robert King
Hidden 13/May/10 Lead
Gareth Pritchard 09/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Andy Butler ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook ?/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
pete1993 24/Apr/10 -
Hidden 22/Apr/10 AltLd
joe1979 22/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd
Si dH 12/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
with Robin Macintosh
Liam FLeming 12/Apr/10 -
with james hayward
Bex_M 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S

First two pitches only (strung together)

with Andy Saxby, Claire Ellwood
aipattison 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Yetiyare 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
martinazando 28/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Poppy Klen
alancash100 ??/2010 AltLd
krusty23 ??/2010 Lead

did in two pitches. Major rope drag on end of 1st pitch after a short runner before right move around bulge

with Janek
31770 ??/2010 -
with Ian Johnson
centurion05 ??/2010 -
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
sgl0jd ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
adamscottthomas 12/Dec/09 Lead rpt

Very cold day. First pitch was wet. Still enjoyable though.

with Luke
danleyden 17/Oct/09 AltLd

Lead pitch 2, Abseil after pitch 3

PaulHarris 03/Oct/09 AltLd
wolf.leeb ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
rd20 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

RD P1 and P3, Martin P2 - then abseil descent

with Martin
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
smolders 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
ungracefulathlete 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S

a big jump into climbing after nearly 6 weeks. An epic.

with Tim C
asmith37 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Did in 4 pitches, 1st belay is very cramped, would be better to link pitches 1 & 2 although communication & rope drag would be a problem. Pitch 1 was steep and easy with a tricky move going around the rib near the top.I thought pitch 2 was the most awkward, not many positive holds when you want them. Pitch 3 was steep with nice climbing on really positive holds and is much easier than it looks from below, however there are no worthwhile runners until a vertical crack near the top, watch out for some very wobbly blocks on this pitch! Pitch 4 is short and easy, not really worth the effort, better to abb off at the top of pitch 3. We took a look at the descent gully which looked very slippery, so down climbed last pitch and abbed off. Although a good and varied climb and well worth doing, not really deserving of its classic status.

mikeshewring 25/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
groovy_nut 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Essentially led the whole thing due to a touch of blondeness and missing the first belay.

with Patrick
Mr G 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

(PYB Lead Climbing Coaching, Guide: Mark Reeves)

with O
Hidden 09/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
SaraKaikk ?/Sep/09 2nd

I can only really remember the last pitch and the Ab down. The last pitch was def the best :)

with Keri
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 21/Aug/09 2nd
mark4344 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S

v.easy for grade and nothing special for it's classic rock status. Pitch 3 slightly bold, but loads of good holds, which is probably why it's VS.

with Michel and james
cooper leek 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S


with crucko
sam820 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Took wrong route for third pitch

Clivest 02/Aug/09 2nd
BorisVBlade 01/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Boris p1&p2&p4, Neil p3

Neil D 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Led P3

Ows ?/Aug/09 AltLd
CathS 24/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

A late evening climb. I led pitch 2. Abbed off from the top of pitch 3 just as it started getting dark. A great route! Pitch lengths don't seem to quite match up with description in Ground Up.

Hidden 24/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Stig 23/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

In two pitches. Admittedly quite damp but didn't feel like a classic. Unbalanced in its current state.

with Chris
chrishedgehog 23/Jul/09 AltLd

Consider abseiling: the descent to the left (looking in) is miserable. I understand there was a fatality here not so long ago and it was clear how that could happen judging by what it was like in the wet.

with James
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
gilbert 08/Jul/09 2nd

lovely evening climb! F15 down the pass???

with Stu Harth
Audrey @ The Castle ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
chrisallan ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 AltLd rpt
jimorothy 19/Jun/09 AltLd

Fast ascent after 8pm. The new (4c) Pitch 3's lack of gear scared me more than the Wild Mouse at Blackpool! Descent via gully watercourse twas tricky

with Rachel Crolla
Liam FLeming 16/Jun/09 AltLd
with karen dalzell
Marti999 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 12/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Marti
Hidden 11/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
ritchierich 31/May/09 AltLd rpt

Did 2nd pitch.

with Wyn Price
Hidden 26/May/09 2nd O/S
Keith Jones 26/May/09 Lead
with ali, Dilwyn
Em66 25/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mat
CharlieMack 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Matt Watkins
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
JDSwain 11/May/09 AltLd O/S

I got the first and third pitch, cracking route, very pleasant!

with Sally Lisle
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 23/Apr/09 AltLd

I did the 1st and 3rd pitch. Abseiled after this. Fantastic climb.

with Jayne
existing debt 23/Apr/09 -
with Iain a
Hidden 23/Apr/09 AltLd
catblack 18/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Dynosoar 12/Apr/09 Lead

Great route, first pitch was a bit wet but still fine. Second pitch was quite low in the grade. Last pitch was great. Exposed, limited gear. But still loads of fun. Ab off after this pitch (ab point at topof pitch 3) if you top out of the crag, only safe desent was a long walk out to wastad (skylon/wrinkle)

with Sally Enwhistle
Morgan Woods 12/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant last pitch.

with Blaine
Hidden 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
debbien1 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

led p2, abseiled off from the top of P3

with Joe
Hidden 01/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
adam06 19/Mar/09 AltLd

nice route!

with chris white and Hilary Theaker
hils theaker 19/Mar/09 2nd
with Adam + Chris
The Bad Cough 16/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with John Nesbitt, Chris Minnett
Hidden 16/Mar/09 2nd O/S
gravity 14/Mar/09 2nd dog
with Hugh and David
cavemancolumbus ?/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

with dan
popov86 ?/Mar/09 AltLd
Rob84 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Chris & Jack
Chrisstroud162 22/Feb/09 2nd O/S

Loved this climb, finished by absailing down. Awesome

with Rob Dyer, Jack Appleby
en7edh ??/2009 2nd
MarkFoster ??/2009 -
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Sally Lisle ??/2009 -
sionjosh ??/2009 -
wilkie14c ??/2009 -
popov86 ??/2009 AltLd
pad-rat 17/Oct/08 Lead
kleinej 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Led all four pitches. Sun. Nice.

with Adam
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Keith Jones 24/Sep/08 AltLd
with ali, David
Hidden 24/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Swirly 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch, easy for VS.

with Dale and Nia
GPN 20/Sep/08 AltLd
with Annette
Hidden 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
net 20/Sep/08 Lead

Very wet at the bottom. Ran p1 & 2 together. Rather easy for VS, but pleasant.

with George
ewen 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with cat
rob wmc 02/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

I led the first and fourth pitch. First pitch was quite wet but had positive holds so felt safe enough. Definately worth abseiling off, we went left and downclimbed right of the gully. Bad idea.

with Alex WW
crag_monster ?/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3

Hidden 29/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
simonfife 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/08 AltLd rpt
jeffb 13/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with andy g
mjeffery 11/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
leonjones 08/Jun/08 AltLd

First 2 pitches only, then abseiled off.

with Phil Barley
irish paul 07/Jun/08 AltLd
with Sarah Joyce
victim of mathematics 01/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3, abbed from the tree. Pitch 3 in particular is awesome.

with Mark (Refugee)
JiveWeasel 22/May/08 Lead

Abseiled off after pitch 3. I found the description of pitch 3 in "North Wales Rock" a little misleading. The description in the "Llanberis Pass" guidebook makes more sense (oh, and I have been up Nea before!). Yes, a small-ish rock spike a couple of moves up pitch 3 is indeed loose ... which I only found out when I put some gear behind it and then pulled up on it! It's still hanging around, so be aware!!

Mrs Weasel 22/May/08 2nd
mitch 15/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3 and 4. 3rd pitch has loose rock on the right just before the traverse. D linked pitches 1 & 2.

Hidden 15/May/08 AltLd O/S
Renegade_Pony 15/May/08 2nd
with Owen Barnicott
Hidden 14/May/08 AltLd
si_green99 05/May/08 Lead O/S

My first full lead on a VS! and a good long abseil down from the top.

HeatherF 05/May/08 Lead
with My mum
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
zchael6 ?/May/08 Lead
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
johniebriggs ?/Feb/08 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
barni ??/2008 Lead O/S

LP all

Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Rampikino 17/Nov/07 Lead

MMC Annual Dinner

with Cat
givemetea 03/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
with Craig Jenkins
joe larner 24/Oct/07 Lead O/S

great fun, pitch 3 especially.

Samsungl 24/Oct/07 2nd
with Joe Larner
tweedcore 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Very nice climb! recomend absailing out as the walk/down climb out is horrible

with Jam/Toby
jambomotamops 21/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Toby Vye, Owen Tweedie
Hjort 21/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with James Mortimer, Owen Tweedie
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
cem 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Keith Jones 11/Sep/07 2nd
with David
Dave Westby 28/Aug/07 AltLd
with Liam Gascon
OffshoreAndy 27/Aug/07 AltLd

Lead P3,4

with NCC Kelvin
Theeni 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Matt Dalby
Hidden 10/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/07 AltLd
cas smerdon 30/Jul/07 2nd

Great abseil

with Gary Thomas
Hidden 19/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Pete Horn 23/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Pete A
Hidden 06/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Carly 05/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Richard
Hidden 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
vinspin ?/Jun/07 -
with steve
psychicbread 25/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Max
Hidden 23/May/07 AltLd O/S
Sgt. Vest 23/May/07 AltLd O/S
Caralynh 20/May/07 AltLd

Led pitches 1 and 3. Abbed off from the ledge. Loved the 3rd pitch - lots of exposure on a wall the guidebook correctly defines as "deceptively steep"

toasted 20/May/07 AltLd
with Charlie Shufflebotham
ritchierich 04/May/07 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
Cardi 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Did in 2 with a grassy scramble one at the top. 1st was quite awkward, the way I went after the chimney felt bold and hard for 4b

with Pete D
mje1398 10/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Dom
KeithW 08/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Another consistent route. S/L/S/L

with Corky
MikeLeeds 07/Apr/07 AltLd
with John Forrester
MikeT ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with SP, TP
brighters ??/2007 -
Samsungl ??/2007 -
with Joe Larner
Samsungl ??/2007 -

Climbed in 2 pitches

Joe Costello ??/2007 -
matthewjc ??/2007 AltLd
with Nigel
steve2006 ??/2007 Lead
peter myers ??/2007 Lead
with Simon Bennet
tumbling wizard ??/2007 Lead
richardr ?/Oct/06 -
John Southworth ?/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Vicky Munn
jimshrimp 09/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Fun climb, although not all that memorable.

Si dH 05/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Neil Furniss
JGW ?/Aug/06 AltLd
with Matt Tilley
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 14/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

I led 1st and 2nd pitches run together. Nice climb, probably doesn't warrant VS though.

bob3141 14/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Lovely climb. At easier end of VS.

sammoore ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Will Sutcliffe
PenJD 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S

I lead pitches 1, 2, 3,4. Lead pitch 5.

with Lianna and Ketch
dicky79 18/Jun/06 AltLd dnf

Heavy rain meant we had to beat a retreat!!

with Pete
dan gibson 07/Jun/06 Solo O/S
PWEI_fan 01/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Lovely... a multipitch climb after work watching the sunset!!! nice position... nice n easy climbing.. fab apres-graft relaxant!!!

with Ad Powers
Joyce 30/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Slightly damp in the groove on the first pitch but dry above. Absorbing climbing and a cheeky exposed third pitch which got the heart racing a little too well. Ian linked pitches 1 and 2 and I led 3 and 4. Superb.

Irk the Purist 30/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Did as two pitches. I took the first 2 and Andy got the fantastic 3rd pitch as well as the 4th. Git.

with Andy
Hidden 29/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
urbanmonkey 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Nice route, 3rd pich was a bit run out

with Cath Bilson
shaun walby 29/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Chris Tan
Hidden 21/Apr/06 AltLd
Strange little creature ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with SimonSanders
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Matt Bengy
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
alpinismo.uk ??/2006 -
rob.grafton ??/2006 AltLd
with Bruce
Luke Brooks ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
petebale2000 20/Sep/05 Lead O/S
petebale2000 20/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Very Busy!

Hidden 19/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
BALD EAGLE 10/Jun/05 AltLd
with Will Wykes, Christian Darr
Hidden 14/May/05 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd
Stone_donkey ?/May/05 Lead

On PyB course. Partner led final pitch

wirralclimber1984 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with jerry
smokeyj ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Danny
tomkhoward 30/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with John Spear
Tom M Williams ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Nigel Mackwood ??/2005 Solo O/S

Although it's one of the easiest VSs, the crux moves made the onsight solo a bit tenuous because I was only leading 4c at the time.

nai ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with Tim
tlr ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with Pom
Gman ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with James
Hidden 31/May/04 Lead
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Dave Mason ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
John Kettle ??/2004 AltLd
keith leonard ??/2004 -
Ewan Russell ??/2004 -

Can't remember if I lead any pitches or not. With dad's mate(name escapes me)

with Mike(Dad)
Hidden 10/Nov/03 AltLd
SteveM 09/Nov/03 AltLd
with Tobs
richardlong78 05/Sep/03 -
with Willie MacRitchie
A Crook 14/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

Well bit exposed now most of the chimney has fallen off

with Pat Boothman
Alaric 05/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3

with Patrick R
Hidden ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 22/Jun/03 -
Tim W 07/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Cat
Mark Riley ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Greenall
John HW ?/Jun/03 AltLd
with Cath and Jill
BIgYeti86 ?/Jun/03 AltLd
Darragh ?/May/03 -

Joe Brown abbed past me, and Hanna met him at the bottom.

with Hanna & Sonja
Hidden 05/Apr/03 AltLd
Urgles ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S

with stitches in foot

with Laura
Chesh ??/2003 Lead
with Mash
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
akhughes ??/2003 -
DerwentDiluted ?/Nov/02 AltLd
with J. Ellson
Hidden 26/Aug/02 Lead
nige pacer ?/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
Julie Carroll 10/May/02 2nd
with Pete Richardson
J1PEF ??/2002 -
DanH9883 ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/01 2nd
FrankW 01/Oct/00 AltLd O/S
with Joe
IanGilbertJones 30/Sep/00 Lead O/S
sims ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hammy 07/Jun/00 AltLd
with Jim Evans
Hidden 30/Apr/00 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/00 -
MoWalker3 01/Jan/00 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd
kitkat78 ??/2000 AltLd
with Gavin E
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
Dave Toseland ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Bill
marcoleptic ??/2000 AltLd
with Moley
runestone ??/2000 -
Derek Ryden ??/2000 Solo rpt
Matt Tranter ??/2000 -
Matt Tranter ??/2000 -
TobyA 21/Nov/99 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Adams
Hidden 29/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/99 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd β
YnysHir 16/May/99 2nd O/S

Ab off @ tree

dickypips ??/1999 AltLd O/S
with john richards
dickypips ??/1999 Lead rpt
pigeonjim ??/1999 AltLd O/S
haydng ??/1999 -
RobSimmo 18/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
kato'sdad 18/Aug/98 AltLd
plain kitten ?/Jul/98 Lead
stokienomad 30/May/98 Lead
rachm2004 01/May/98 2nd
with Ian L
Hidden ??/1998 2nd O/S
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/1998 -
ColdAndWet ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/97 Lead
frost ?/Jun/97 -
John Pickles 03/May/97 AltLd O/S
with Dave Elliot
Hidden 10/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/96 Solo
five ?/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
Russell Lovett 31/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with andrew haigh
buxtoncoffeelover 07/Jul/96 2nd
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
BenTiffin 14/Dec/95 Lead

A good first VS.

with John Wheeler
Hidden 19/Oct/95 2nd O/S
Budge ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
JiveWeasel 18/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Kate S
danm ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd O/S
Rich ??/1995 -
Tom Vivian 23/Sep/94 AltLd

Abbed off after pitch 2.

Hidden 19/Aug/94 2nd
colin milton 17/Jun/94 AltLd
with eric milton
ste_d 11/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 11/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
Tenko 08/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with Kev Wilson
auld al ?/May/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/94 AltLd O/S
Mike_T0501 26/Mar/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/94 AltLd
NeilGriffiths 01/Jan/94 AltLd

Hangover. Very wet.

with Simon Bennett
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
smudge ??/1994 Lead O/S
stokienomad ??/1994 -
BigHairyIan 24/Oct/93 AltLd O/S

And Debs.

with Tufty (Stewart Moffat)
Cowflinger 01/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/93 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 15/Apr/93 Solo O/S
DavPk ??/1993 AltLd
with Gareth Wood
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
iskra2000 ??/1993 Lead

With Doug ? First VS lead. Climbed after party in front hit ground on rope stretch after gear ripped. Winded but OK. Squashed sandwiches in rucksack.

with Paul Woodcock
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Ian Archer 22/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Peter Horton
Chris Ellis 23/May/92 AltLd
with Ernie Horrocks
jacque ?/May/92 AltLd

My first climb in Wales and the name of my daughter

with Roger Martin
WB ??/1992 -
Andy Chubb 01/Sep/91 Lead
with Dave Higham
Duncan I ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Simon Hunter
AdmWlr ??/1991 Lead O/S
timreynolds 29/Sep/90 AltLd
with Andy Phillips
mattnuttall 14/Aug/90 Lead
with Steve Prior, Alan Holden
Hidden 05/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/90 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/90 2nd O/S
rogerskews 06/Jul/90 Lead
with Phil
Hidden 01/Apr/90 AltLd
lithos ?/Mar/90 -
rilem ??/1990 2nd
with Ian W
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
phardman ??/1990 -
alan moore ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Andy Say 19/Oct/89 Solo
Iain Thow 26/Nov/88 AltLd

Ran into 2 pitches, I led first.

with Nick Hunt
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
with Longhair Mick
Tony Buckley ?/Jul/88 AltLd

We set off from the car at 6.30 when the rain got a little lighter. It soon came back, heavy as ever. It was getting dark when we discovered that the last pitch had fallen off. After some consequent excitement, two rather soggy climbers just made last orders at the Vaynol.

with Richard Brockman
cragspud ?/Jul/88 Lead O/S
Budge ?/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Jelly Mould Surfer ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/88 AltLd
Raggar 22/May/88 AltLd
with Steve B
Hidden ?/May/88 AltLd
mark-abz 30/Apr/88 AltLd
with Andy W
Paul Figg ?/Mar/88 Lead
AndyB123 ??/1988 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
malc 30/Oct/87 AltLd O/S
sadams 24/Oct/87 Lead
with LUMC Fresher's Meet
Yourlead ?/Oct/87 2nd
with Harvey, John Sellers
Hidden 04/Jul/87 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/87 AltLd
biggianthead 18/Jun/87 -
with M
jimslade ?/Jun/87 AltLd

Did this in the mid-late 80's. Glad I didn't lead top pitch. I think the original top pitch had only just fallen off then. First 2 pitches I rember as highly polished back then. Can only reiterate what an earlier logger has written :- "recomend absailing out as the walk/down climb out is horrible" Very, more dangerous unroped than the climb was roped.

Babika ?/May/87 Lead

A sense of history on this route..

with Ian Shore
Gary Coggon ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S

?With Catherine Hammond, Stantonbury student.

Hidden 29/Jun/86 AltLd
neil3965 ??/1986 -
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Richard Weller ??/1986 -
Hidden 03/Aug/85 Lead O/S
Nick Biven 03/May/85 Lead O/S
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Steve Crowe ??/1984 AltLd O/S

circa 1984

with LM
nigehughes ?/Sep/83 AltLd
with Steve Nicholson
Mark Kemball 22/Aug/83 Lead
with Bill Kemball
hazeysunshine ?/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with Pete H
Hidden 23/Jul/83 Lead
charlesmfrench 15/Jul/83 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/83 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/83 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1983 AltLd
AlanLittle ?/Jun/82 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin ?/Feb/81 AltLd
with Steve Gough
MikeDowsett ??/1981 AltLd
RichardMc 12/Jul/80 Lead
with Margaret Clennet, Pam Holt
philhilo ?/Jul/80 2nd
with Dave or Hes? Pickup
RichardMc 29/Jun/80 Solo
PaulHermes ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
Nevil ??/1980 -

Do not know year

Norman_P_W ??/1980 -
Neil R 01/Sep/79 AltLd
with David M
Bruce Kerr 15/Apr/79 Lead
with Brian Dick
Hidden ??/1979 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1979 -
Andy Fielding 23/Jul/78 AltLd
with Mike Gilbert
Chris Terrey 12/Jun/78 Lead
with Roger Wilson
Hammy 27/May/78 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
babymoac 29/Apr/78 Lead
Andy Chubb 23/Sep/77 Lead
with Saxon Ridley
RichardMc 03/Jul/77 Lead
with Mo Dunning
steve L 27/Jul/76 -
with Phil Thomas, sharpie
tapley 21/Jul/76 Lead
with Alison Tapley
beaumap ?/Jun/76 AltLd
with Bernie Green
RichardMc 25/Aug/75 AltLd

Down climb after Sickle

with Tony Sawyer
Hidden ?/Aug/75 AltLd
paul59 01/Apr/75 2nd
with Geoff Read
Ian Jones ??/1975 Lead O/S
with Billy Jones
Mike Owen ?/Aug/74 -
with John Roberts
Rob Davies 01/Jul/74 Lead rpt
with Allan Sleight
Rog Wilko ?/May/74 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Nigel Bond 01/Apr/74 Lead
with Dave Jolliffe
Howard J ??/1974 AltLd O/S

This was before the top pitch fell down,it was graded Severe then

with Mike Crawley
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
Rob Davies 01/Oct/73 2nd

Severe then, before rockfall

with Rod Little (ICMC)
Brian Wilderspin ?/Aug/73 2nd

On YHA climbing course, It was sever then before the top pitch fell down.

pneame ?/Apr/73 -
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/73 AltLd O/S
with Geoff Riding
Bolt Phobia 09/Mar/73 -
Hidden ?/Mar/73 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1973 AltLd
with Ed Thompson
John Stenhouse ?/Sep/72 AltLd
with John Offord
Tom V ??/1972 -
eroica64 13/Oct/70 Solo
Gordon Stainforth 17/Jan/70 AltLd

In wet conditions.

with Tim James
zukator ??/1970 -
Gordon Stainforth 30/Aug/69 AltLd


with John Stainforth
eroica64 26/Jun/69 Lead
with Tony Mellor
mikej 26/May/69 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
RichardMc 14/Apr/69 AltLd
with Bill Grant
mikej 08/Mar/69 AltLd
with Pete Kokolaar
Gordon Stainforth 10/Aug/68 AltLd
with John Stainforth
mikej 14/Jun/68 Lead
with Isabel Ross
Sean Kelly ?/May/68 AltLd

My first ever climb in Wales. A good one to start!

with Dick Curtis & Paul Chapman
RichardMc 17/Apr/68 Lead β
with S Hotchkiss
RichardMc 13/Apr/68 AltLd
with Tony Richards
Hidden 17/Sep/67 AltLd
mikej 22/Sep/66 Lead

Via the original Severe finish.

with Ted Markham
eroica64 25/Jun/66 Solo
Hidden 01/Jan/66 Lead
Hidden 07/Nov/65 Lead
eroica64 ?/Jul/65 2nd
with Steve from Cromlech Club
kjacks 28/Aug/64 2nd

Original Finish

with Dave Peers
uphillnow ?/May/63 -
oldmanofmow 29/Jun/59 2nd

Colin Mortlock led Bob Caulkwell and I

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High 4c
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Votes cast 135
Votes cast 122
Style of ascent
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