Pembrokeshire > Trevallen Cliff >
 
Trevallen Pillar: original finish*** E4 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Mishcola
 
Trevallen Pillar (rockfax description) >>
Top pitch as described by First Ascentionist below: I've never climbed the second pitch as described here (and in Rockfax) via the shiny grey slab; I always took a line based on the left arete straight above the belay niche, climbed mostly on its left side, as consistently described in successive CC guides. It's possible that something came off in the years soon after the FA - I vaguely recall committing to a dodgy flake, and I think there was mention of someone taking to the air clutching such an item (the FA was onsight, ground-up, so no previous cleaning) - but I've done the route far more recently and still took the same line. I only mention this because the various database comments include instances of people having a hard time or even failing on the top pitch, when in fact they were quite possibly off-route if using this description! I've no idea where the shiny slab version came from; people have obviously gone that way but probably initially by mistake. Perhaps it should become the standard finish for Trevallen Arete! Regards Ian P
FA. J.deMontjoye, I.Parsons 20.6.81 20/Jun/1981

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 21 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

Pleased with this one, one of my least skatty E4 leads to date. Awfull conditions too, humid and greasy, had to chalk up on virtually every move!
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Adam Bevan

soph - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/13 with Luke brooks

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Dave O

I'll say the crux was greasy.....
dave o - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/12 with Dave Cowan

Using the rockfax guide but the arÍte on pitch 2 seemed the obvious (only?) choice. Both pitches have excellent short sharp cruxes.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12 with AlexD

AlexD - 2nd dog - 17/Sep/12 with Ed

Up and down to thread twice but just too hot (got on this about 5 in afternoon in the sun).
ksjs - Lead dnf - 04/Sep/12 with owen

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/12 with jacob loyd

jacobjlloyd - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/12 with Dougie

Ran the two pitches together, and didn't bother resting too much at the belay because I thought I'd done the hard bit - MASSIVE mistake. Got really pumped and scared on the upper arete and had to dig deep to get the jug flake, would've taken a hug whipper!
Joughton - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12

fyfee8a - 2004

Hidden - Lead rpt - Jun/02

kp64zl - 2nd - Jul/97 with David Pickford

The E grade is in the top pitch
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 25/May/97

In 1 pitch. If you don't do the original finish then you haven't done Trevallen Pillar!
Roget - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/95 with jon

With Neil Thompson, LUMC I think.
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/91 with Neil Thompson

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/83

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/82

Voting
Total votes cast 19
hard E50 of 7
E50 of 7
easy E50 of 7
hard E40 of 7
E47 of 7
easy E40 of 7
hard E30 of 7
E30 of 7
easy E30 of 7
hard 6b0 of 6
6b0 of 6
easy 6b0 of 6
hard 6a0 of 6
6a6 of 6
easy 6a0 of 6
hard 5c0 of 6
5c0 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
3 Stars6 of 6
2 Stars0 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent

Lead12 of 21 (57.1%)
Followed5 of 21 (23.8%)
Alt Leads3 of 21 (14.3%)
Unknown1 of 21 (4.8%)

'Climbed'5 of 21 (23.8%)
clean O/S10 of 21 (47.6%)
clean rpt3 of 21 (14.3%)
dogged2 of 21 (9.5%)
dnf1 of 21 (4.8%)