Top pitch as described by First Ascentionist below:
I've never climbed the second pitch as described here (and in Rockfax) via the shiny grey slab; I always took a line based on the left arete straight above the belay niche, climbed mostly on its left side, as consistently described in successive CC guides. It's possible that something came off in the years soon after the FA - I vaguely recall committing to a dodgy flake, and I think there was mention of someone taking to the air clutching such an item (the FA was onsight, ground-up, so no previous cleaning) - but I've done the route far more recently and still took the same line. I only mention this because the various database comments include instances of people having a hard time or even failing on the top pitch, when in fact they were quite possibly off-route if using this description! I've no idea where the shiny slab version came from; people have obviously gone that way but probably initially by mistake. Perhaps it should become the standard finish for Trevallen Arete! Regards Ian P

FA. J.deMontjoye, I.Parsons 20.6.81 20/Jun/1981

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

James S 20/Sep Lead O/S

Tide had just gone out so bottom was wet which made things a little stressful to start but soon hit dry rock and excellent climbing. So good as a big pitch!

with rich
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead RP
quiffhanger 21/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Led easier top pitch - very worthwhile: great moves.

with Conor
ejected ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ed morris 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Pleased with this one, one of my least skatty E4 leads to date. Awfull conditions too, humid and greasy, had to chalk up on virtually every move!

with Adam Bevan
Duncan Campbell 31/May/13 2nd

2 hard moves with a full rest inbetween. Brilliant.

with Ollie B
Ollie B 31/May/13 Lead rpt
with D.Campbell
soph 30/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Dangerous Dave 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dave O
dave o 20/Sep/12 2nd dog

I'll say the crux was greasy.....

Ed Babs 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Using the rockfax guide but the arÍte on pitch 2 seemed the obvious (only?) choice. Both pitches have excellent short sharp cruxes.

with AlexD
AlexD 17/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Ed
ksjs 04/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Up and down to thread twice but just too hot (got on this about 5 in afternoon in the sun).

with owen
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dougie
Joughton 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Ran the two pitches together, and didn't bother resting too much at the belay because I thought I'd done the hard bit - MASSIVE mistake. Got really pumped and scared on the upper arete and had to dig deep to get the jug flake, would've taken a hug whipper!

Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
fyfee8a ??/2004 -
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead rpt
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 2nd
with David Pickford
PaulTanton 25/May/97 AltLd O/S

The E grade is in the top pitch

Roget 22/Jun/95 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch. If you don't do the original finish then you haven't done Trevallen Pillar!

with jon
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Kelvin Grice
jfletcher 18/Jun/91 Lead O/S

With Neil Thompson, LUMC I think.

with Neil Thompson
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden 06/Apr/83 Lead
steve L 03/Aug/82 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Hidden 24/Jul/82 AltLd
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set