Rockfax Description
Short and fierce. Gain the leftward-slanting crack and then a small quartz ledge on the right. This provides a launch pad for the crux, and after Left Wall it is one of the most fallen off routes in the Pass. Better holds and easier climbing quickly appear in the groove. Belay on the Brant turret. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

anguskille 24/May Lead O/S
with Rich Gentry
tim20 23/May 2nd
Rachel S 15/May 2nd
with Nik
Chris M 15/May 2nd dog
with Andy B
Andrew Barker 15/May Lead O/S
with Chris M
Nik Jennings 15/May Lead O/S
with Rachel
tim.fairhall 14/May 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 14/May Lead dog

The description is setting you up for a sandbag. The quartz ledge proved totally useless for doing the baffling crux move, which was actually completely easy as soon as I decided not to use it. Will come back and do it clean at some point. Sigh.

with Tim
richiebongo 20/Apr Lead β

Phil climbed first but came off on the crux so I went up using his runners and only just stayed on.

with Phil Rossiter
jezb1 19/Mar 2nd


Hidden ??/2016 -
shaunhumphreys 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

pretty pumpy almost fell trying to reverse to the rest, fine once you commit tho

benkelsey 03/Oct/15 2nd rpt

Had done years ago. Still hard.

with Shaun Humphreys
Jono_LS16 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Justin T 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Quality improvisation, quality route.

with Nancy
NancyJones 09/Sep/15 2nd dog
sev 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
James Oakes 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 15/Jul/15 Lead
with KP
Hidden 29/Jun/15 Lead dog
Sam Simpson 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hughes
Andy Peak 1 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Last lead of the weekend arms burning:)

Misha 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Short and sharp! Hard moves or at least they felt damn hard after a full weekend of climbing...

with Andy
mynyddresident 26/May/15 -
wolf.leeb 26/May/15 Lead rpt
with nic
Chris M 16/May/15 AltLd
with tom r
guy757 24/Apr/15 -
JamesWilliams 23/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Tried a couple of attempts last year with adam but could get into the corner crack. Got straight up to the corner today and pumped out and fell because I couldn't sort my feet. Pulled the ropes and had another go and found a good jam with my left hand to allow me to move my feet, commence bridging between my right foot and my head to the thank go jugs!

climberchristy 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Really good. Cruxy but difficulties short lived .

with Ben Cole
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
mynyddresident 27/Sep/14 Lead
with KP
Hidden 19/Sep/14 Lead O/S
alice fuller 12/Sep/14 2nd dog

blinking nails crux.

Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
erbridger 03/Sep/14 2nd

Second to Tom. Great climb with a tough crux but well worth the effort.

adamre12 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Soaking wet on the crux! Fought up from the quartz ledge making a lot of noise. Easy at the top. Onsight!

Hidden 12/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 31/Jul/14 Lead dog
Ed morris 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jerry Handren
alexm198 27/Jul/14 2nd
Matt Harle 27/Jul/14 -
Rachel Slater 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Borg
Hannes B 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

found this hard

with wil
drysori 25/Jul/14 Lead
Adam_42 21/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Sat on a cam which popped. Bad fall and plenty of rope burn. Lots of lessons to learn from this one. Don't fancy doing something like that again.

alexjz 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, climbed really well

with Gwen
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mynyddresident ?/Jul/14 -
with KP
Jack93 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Felt quite easy for the grade but sadly I've been informed it just gets easier if you're really tall

spidermonkey09 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

One move wonder, but nice climbing.

Kevster 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nibs
Steve Crowe 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead G/U
cat22 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Mike
Luxulyan 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
wi11 18/May/14 TR rpt

On a grigri...not as hard as I remembered

with Jack L, Anna G
JulesV 18/May/14 Lead rpt
Mike_Hayes 18/May/14 Lead

On Chris' gear - Stood on own quick draw instead of hold!

Chris M 04/May/14 TR
Dave Almond 02/May/14 Lead dog

Cold damp and white fingers . No excuse really just need to try harder

Hidden ?/May/14 -
Roo123 30/Apr/14 2nd dog
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
tim newton 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with gwen lancashire
BenNorman 01/Sep/13 Lead

Fell off!! foot slip but good to take a fall. Lead on si's gear after.

brices 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
smallerrich 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Easy when you go the right way

metal arms 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 03/Aug/13 Lead

Rested on gear :-(

spidey 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with mat lamb
Mattlamb90 21/Jul/13 2nd β
with Ryan
wi11 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Brian
Hidden 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 10/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Huw
Dan Vaj 07/Jun/13 TR dog

Climber to crux and fell. Finished it.

with Matthew stygall
Tubs 31/May/13 Lead
with AJM
wi11 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks!

with Gwen L
Chris Wright 25/May/13 Lead
wolf.leeb 20/May/13 2nd rpt
with hosey
ksjs 07/May/13 Lead rpt
with Rhys
Tim Rodgers 04/May/13 TR
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Si
shed_hed 01/May/13 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 01/May/13 Lead O/S
BenRyle 26/Feb/13 Lead RP

Uber pumped

with Dan
Dan724 26/Feb/13 2nd rpt
Alex.M-M. 22/Sep/12 Lead dog
with chris ripper
Ed Babs 09/Sep/12 2nd β

Hard work for a few moves.

Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Dan724 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Cardi 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dan
Jen Crook 23/Aug/12 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead dog
guy757 14/Aug/12 -
with Vic
mikeshewring 06/Jun/12 Lead β
Richard Kemble 29/May/12 2nd O/S
with Lewis G
wynaptomos 24/May/12 2nd dog
Ollie B 03/May/12 Lead O/S

Attempted the pump by accident previously, much easier than that!

with L.Fleming
Stone Muppet 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd
ksjs 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
PaulTanton 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
sam820 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tom Livingstone 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
owain86 01/Oct/11 Lead β

On Tom's Gear

Hidden 23/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
gregoritos 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd
Ewan Russell 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

halla did brant direct afterwards

with Halla
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead
dannyboy83 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mr mills 29/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with sion
Hidden 11/Jun/11 TR
Lenny 04/Jun/11 TR dog
with Les
Pippa 29/Apr/11 Lead
with Jon
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with helen, nic
benkelsey 21/Apr/11 2nd dog

took one rest trying to power through crux. got wrong handed and still suffering from left wall syndrome the day before.

Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
barni 29/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Liam FLeming 29/Mar/11 Lead β

I'm Hard

with barni
dan ely 29/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Danjones 29/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with dan ely
Rory Shaw 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt
thetradlad 19/Mar/11 2nd dog

a Pumpy little bastard

Harry Thorpe 19/Mar/11 Lead dog

Fell off on the crux, pumpy!

Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
samrad 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

off balance crux.

with james G
farmus21 20/Oct/10 2nd

Another fight, great line with tough crux

with Sam Radcliffe
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead dnf
dave o 16/Aug/10 Lead

the crack on the crux was damp and i slipped out of it, got it from the ground next go

with Julia H
dan gibson 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/10 TR dog
Chriswallis2 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
gd303uk 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
with John Rogers
John Lewis 30/May/10 2nd
with Ewan
richardr 19/May/10 Lead O/S
dan ely 17/May/10 2nd dog

did same day before with ed. rested at crux both times.

with rich
dan ely 17/May/10 2nd dog

did same day before with ed. rested at crux both times.

with rich
ksjs 17/May/10 Lead rpt
with jo
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead β
Laurence Everitt 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Mark D 15/May/10 Lead dog
with Tommy B, Laurence Everitt
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead
Chris M 11/May/10 Lead
with rach d
Sam W 02/May/10 Lead
with Sam Ring
JPGR 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Bennykr 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S

cool, a wee bit pumpy!!! but shortlived

Hidden 16/Apr/10 Lead dog
eddy-on-the-rocks 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Tomprusk 14/Mar/10 Lead dog

Skin ripping sensation with great moves and a few falls.

with Alex
The Green Giant 14/Mar/10 Lead dog

Going back ASAP to climb it clean, Really annoyed that I came off it, Ending up going up the crack for the last part of the E2 to the right of it too...

with Tom
Hidden 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/10 Lead
Dave Rumney 07/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Tanya Milner
hervenuttall ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 12/Feb/10 Lead
mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
robin heath ??/2010 2nd O/S
with Tom Wild
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 -
brian watson 27/Sep/09 Lead RP
Carly 20/Jul/09 2nd
with Richard
Hidden 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Strong John
DDDD 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mick Haffner
Hidden 23/Jun/09 2nd rpt
davidwright 12/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Ri ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
barni 03/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Glyn
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Brian
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead
Rich Kirby 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ash
Guy Wilson 07/Jun/08 Lead β
with Steve Long
Owain Llewelyn 03/Jun/08 Lead
with Phil
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
Tim M 30/May/08 Lead
with Emma
climbergg 30/May/08 2nd
kieranrex 10/May/08 Lead
with Sophie Wilmes
Hidden 09/May/08 2nd O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
barni 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Jun/07 Lead rpt

lovely bouldery single pitch action

Richard Horn 26/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead dog
Morgan Woods 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S

pumpy but basically a one move wonder!

with Gareth
Dan 85 24/Mar/07 Lead RP
with Tim
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
zero six ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/06 Lead dog
Alex Mason 26/Jul/06 Lead O/S

brilliant tough and technical sequence.

Shaw Brown 08/Jul/06 Lead

One rest on gear :(

with Chris King
Hidden 12/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Chubbard 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with C Godfrey
IOAN D 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Mills
Bern ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
rob.grafton ??/2006 AltLd
with Bruce
mattyork2 03/Aug/05 2nd dog
with Jim
Hidden 18/Jun/05 Lead rpt
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
nicholas Barrowclough 18/Jun/04 Lead
Lizard ?/May/04 2nd
with Andrey K
Hidden 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2002 Lead β

Failed on this the day I first led the Dervish in 1983.

with Karen Ghiselli
jfletcher 17/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Fletcher
Hammy 07/Jun/00 2nd
with Jim Evans
big ?/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden 14/May/00 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 05/May/00 Lead O/S
with Duncan Spencer
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/98 Lead O/S
WB 06/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Ciaran
craig h 22/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
The Reaper 22/Mar/97 2nd O/S
Bruce Kerr 02/Jul/96 Lead
with Perric Crellin
michael burrows 20/Jun/96 2nd
with mark ryan
crossleysm ??/1996 2nd
Roget 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Solo O/S
bullybones ??/1995 -
shoulders 18/Sep/94 Lead
with hywel, dai
John Southworth 07/Aug/94 Lead O/S
chris sm 18/Jun/94 Lead dog
Marti999 ??/1994 Lead
Stoney Boy 04/Sep/93 2nd O/S
with Bob Marks
D Tempest 01/Aug/93 2nd O/S
with Rick
Hidden 21/Jun/93 2nd
uphillnow 29/Apr/93 2nd

had climbed previously

with Graeme Smith, Mark Gray
Hidden 16/Sep/92 TR
Hidden 27/May/92 TR
Hidden 21/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/91 Lead
steveb2006 13/Jul/91 Lead

Feels hard for grade (E1 in 1991)

with Simon Mee
sadams 01/Feb/91 Lead
with Kev Mellieu
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 25/Jul/90 2nd
Neil R 05/May/90 Lead dnf
with Ian
whispering nic ?/May/90 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/90 2nd O/S
michael burrows 22/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with pete roberts
Phil Ingle 12/Jul/89 AltLd O/S

Second E1 lead, looks like it is now graded E2

with Toby Harris
Hidden 19/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden 27/May/89 TR
Hidden 20/May/89 Lead dnf
steve taylor ?/May/89 Lead
with mark grover
phardman 10/Sep/88 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
Hidden 07/Nov/87 TR
steveb2006 08/Sep/87 2nd

I fail to lead

with Andy Towne
Dave Musgrove 15/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Lyn
Nick Biven 01/May/87 Lead
Backinthegame ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Hugh Watkins
nigehughes ?/May/86 Lead
with Karl Greenwood
GordonHart ?/Jul/85 2nd β
Robmwatt ??/1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
keefe 21/Apr/84 -
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/83 Lead
philhilo 13/Aug/83 Lead O/S
with M Cave
Ivan Machin 21/Aug/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Hidden 18/Apr/81 2nd
Hammy 27/Apr/80 Lead
with Rob Lawson
Mark Kemball ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 10/Apr/77 Lead O/S
with Pete Craig
steve L 06/Aug/76 Lead O/S
with sharpie
greenbuoy ?/Jul/70 2nd

Found it very strenuous

with Terry Taylor
Derek Abbott 23/Sep/54 AltLd RP

First Ascent with Mike Harvey. A bit of a struggle. Delighted to see that it has maintained its grade and is popular too.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
callumbtaylor, Hidden, Kevin Robert Jones, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Michael Hood, Hidden, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 52
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set