35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine and popular route with just a couple of hard moves which are well protected by fixed gear. The 1st pitch feels quite pushy.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the shallow right-facing groove (polished) then trend left under the ivy on spaced jugs to reach a small exposed stance with good belays.
2) 5a, 15m. Passing the pothole involves an awkward and constricted traverse (threads) to reach a ledge. Step back to the left and finish up the hanging groove. An alternative finish out right ends up in an ugly shrubby gully and is best avoided. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, K.Beech (some aid) 1959

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.


ClimberDateStyle
chrishedgehog 26/Aug Lead O/S

A big pitch if done in a one-er. I read there were in-situ threads on the crux but they are not there at the moment. One of the best pitches of VS I've done. Steep, juggy, fun traverse, brilliant. Ran out of light. And headtorches.

with Kieran Myles
Alkis 13/Aug 2nd rpt
with Alasdair Dickinson
Hidden 09/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug AltLd O/S
Luke90 08/Jun Lead O/S

Done in one pitch. The move under the roof on the second pitch required a little thought but the first pitch actually felt more like the crux with the polish.

Dave Almond 06/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May AltLd O/S
BTphonehome 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 23/Apr 2nd
with Bram
georgenvk 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
James Lowe 13/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete Nuthall
Anthony Dixon 10/Sep/15 Lead
with Shann
DubyaJamesDubya 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Trevor Stevens, Paul Hennelly
The Reaper 26/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

Started ridiculously late so did the second pitch in the dark.

RM199 22/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 22/Aug/15 Lead
Paul Hy 04/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

P1

with Harry G
andyclimber 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch.

Wayne S 09/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/Jun/15 AltLd
the power 21/Jun/15 Lead rpt

In a oner felt harder than it shuda

with Andy, rob
andy.smythe 10/Jun/15 AltLd

2nd pitch

ralphio 10/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Andy
kermit_uk 05/Jun/15 2nd O/S

In 1 pitch. Felt committing and necky for VS but generally a really good route.

djones66 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S

A return visit after leasing a couple of times in years gone by. The crux sequence is just as memorable as ever, and that crucial triangular foothold is more polished than ever. Use it with care!

with Stve mc D
markpollak 11/May/15 Lead O/S

we saw the previous chap's shiny krabs but left them in case anyone needs to bail out in future - traverse on p2 was a little wet which made it feel quite hard! Excellent route though

with niall
Ardo 24/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Lead p1 and abbed off from the belay stance, as birds nest in the hole and the traverse was wet. Two shiny DMM krabs waiting for the next ascensionist.

jon_gill1 09/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Led p1 and p2, couldn't remember that id done this one before!

with Alan Segar
davewsargent ??/2015 Lead
jayray ??/2015 -
SGD 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

P2 only, Did excavator to the belay.

mbxcs1 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

FlavioL1989 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with NLMC
katyc 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2. P1 sustained. One move wonder on P2 but what an awesome move! Thoroughly enjoyable!

Hidden 25/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
Different Steve 13/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Emma Hawkins
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jmills94 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

not a bad little route, pitch 1 has got some stiff moves in it and if done correctly is pumpier on the legs from bridging. crux move on p2 is certainly trickier for the tall such as my self, felt hard 5a for me despite being only a single move!

with Neil McCallister
simon1965 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Loose and not very nice low down, almost dangerous, and HVS overall due to loose lower section and polished top traverse! One star.

with James
Stig 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

P1 is dangerous. Take care.

nige pacer 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Simon Pape
Hidden 19/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd
GermanAlex 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

lead both pitches, what an amazing route! found the first pitch harder than the second, the traverse is cool but only one move and not that hard really.

with Alkis
Alkis 06/Jun/14 2nd rpt
petegunn 05/Jun/14 Lead

An excellent route, good holds and a fine position on the traverse.

with Davina
Hidden 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
marconi ?/Jun/14 Lead
with Mackie
robgixer ??/2014 Lead O/S
the power 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with rob
dr_botnik 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P2

Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tatz45 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. Nice route but not "Top 50".

Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead rpt
K Wall 14/Jul/13 Lead
with Marie
Chriswallis2 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Wayne S 13/Jul/13 Lead β
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Kirill 10/Jul/13 Lead rpt
cem 10/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/13 2nd
Jenny Clarke ?/Jul/13 2nd
gazfellows 25/Jun/13 Lead

What a top class route. The first pitch is full of jugs but a little sustained! Then!!! Move from the belay ledge to the best exposed traverse ever, just a shame it doesn't last a little longer! Non the less I'd give this top 50 status .... Bangin !

with Nic
cem 15/Jun/13 2nd rpt
EeFu 15/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/13 2nd
dan_blair87 ?/Jun/13 2nd

Good hand traverse crux

ejected ??/2013 -
jwhereat 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Great route! Enjoyed the first pitch with some brave moves, and loved getting around the pothole on the top pitch.

Mike_Hayes 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
chrisbussell 07/Aug/12 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
Phill Mitch 05/Aug/12 AltLd rpt
with bleggs
catblack 29/Jun/12 2nd O/S

wet holds for the traverse on the second pitch made it more exciting!

with Skippy
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd
kwaidy 02/Jun/12 Lead dnf

only did first pitch .

with sting
charley 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Found the first pitch to be the most serious one - steep, sustained with some tricky moves (one of which felt harder then 4c but may of just been due to the heat) and fiddly gear. Second pitch felt exposed on the traverse but bomber gear. Enjoyed it but didn't feel like a top 50 to me..

chumleywarner 27/May/12 2nd O/S
petellis 25/May/12 2nd dog
with Sloth
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd
davewsargent ?/May/12 Lead rpt
with andy neath
Nevil 31/Mar/12 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 31/Mar/12 2nd
with Nevil
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
wishicud climbHVS 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I did 1st pitch which is nice although a little exposed. Good belay stance, brought Dan up and sand bagged him because the traverse looked well scary!! He did it well and finished it off nicely. Take some prusik with you just in case the in situ stuff is rubbish.

masa-alpin 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Belayed by Martin. Pretty slimy due to the weather (it had been drizzling). None successfully seconded.

with Matt B, Lesley, Martin L, Luke A
Stoney Boy 08/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Nick Conway
Kirill 06/Aug/11 Lead rpt

As one pitch

cem 06/Aug/11 2nd rpt
jayrenegade 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Very good route, loved the exposure on p2.

with Adrian
Steve Lenartowicz 31/Jul/11 Lead
with Clare
davewsargent 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

as one pitch

Alkis 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
adam carless 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

led second pitch. Pitch grades definitely the wrong way round, start has a couple of 5a moves. Second pitch has a 4c move on traverse if you're generous. Good small threads on traverse (if you brought your prusik loops).

eduardo 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Led as single pitch. Initial crack was wet, so made the start tough for VS. A very sweaty climb, especially under the roof! Took quite a while thinking about the traverse.

with Roger F
Brian Rodgers 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Mike Todd 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd
bigdrew 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P2

DigitalSteak 08/May/11 2nd O/S
shaun walby 02/May/11 2nd O/S
with Ian Holtby
Tim Rodgers 29/Apr/11 2nd
Hannes B 19/Apr/11 2nd
with Tom
jon_gill1 05/Apr/11 2nd O/S
crossleysm ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
metal arms 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch

twright180 ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
garywong 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

kleinej 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Found it a bit tricky.

with Gary
Phill Mitch 25/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with gaz
jshields 17/Jun/10 Lead

5th time!

Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S
tebs 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

1st pitch contains the meat of the route. Steep, burly and intimidating climbing for VS. 2nd pitch had the scariest move of the day for me, properly bunched up under the roof and sweating hard due to the ridiculous humidity. Great route though, felt like an adventure.

with Sci
helios 12/May/10 2nd
with Mathew Cantrill
That Shallot 12/May/10 Lead O/S

Lead as one pitch. Found this quite tricky in places especially the first pitch. The traverse is good, didn't bother with a foot swap just stepped through. Great climb. Deserves it's stars.

with Jenny
ukb shark 25/Apr/10 Lead

Horrorshow

with Sonia + family
jwpil 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Vic
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd rpt
holters ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Hidden 02/Oct/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 02/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Budge 01/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with Graham Collins, Mike Oates
Hidden 21/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Brian Rodgers 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Led as a single pitch

with Oread Mike
Ketu 15/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

a little too humid to fully enjoy to the max, lead as one big pitch, found the traverse hard

with Rob
mic_b 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 12/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Adam1973 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 06/Jul/09 -
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/May/09 AltLd O/S
sgl0jd 26/May/09 AltLd
with Lizzie
Sam1991 10/May/09 Lead rpt

Lead both pitches. Nice route, not a doddle at VS, but holds are always big. Gear a little tricky to find around midheight...be inventive ;). 2nd pitch is a one move wonder, but its a good one move, and nice and exposed

with Andy J
bigdrew 10/May/09 2nd
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead O/S
gordonday 01/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with clive
Michelle_250 ??/2009 Lead O/S
joese7en ??/2009 Lead O/S
paulstrutt01 31/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
trigger118 03/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Al Randall
Adderbury Climber 03/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
malc 30/Jul/08 AltLd rpt

Led Pitch 2

with Paul S
thebigfriendlymoose 25/Jul/08 2nd β

As one pitch

with Stephen
Matt Fry 30/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/08 2nd
Jim Slater 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Excellent climb, worth the 3 stars.

Hidden 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Sam1991 ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Awsome. Traverse is fab. exposure city!!

with Matt
Si dH ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Felt really hard at the crux

with Neil Furniss
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
AntiGrav ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
PenJD 02/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

4c, 5a. I lead first, Duncan second.

Kirill 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

led first pitch

with Paul Smith
Sankey 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Ran both pitches together. The "fixed gear" is no more, take cord to make your own thread

with Luke
Pilch 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Ran it as one pitch, quite stiff climbing out of initial groove, top crux feels exposed when done as one pitch

with Brid
cem 10/Jun/07 Lead rpt

Led both pitches

with Ian Steen
Katya 06/May/07 2nd
with Simon Dale
Hidden 25/Apr/07 2nd rpt
malc 14/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch 1.

with Paul S
Sidekick ??/2007 AltLd O/S

p2

Hidden 28/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
IanGilbertJones 28/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/06 AltLd
Bry ??/2006 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
chrisclimber_1986 23/Dec/05 2nd O/S

Good climb with a brilliant traverse at the pothole, Took a while to start as it was very polished

with William Kelsall
Hidden ?/Dec/05 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/05 AltLd rpt
Sam and will 18/May/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett
Dave Mason ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
Phill Mitch ??/2004 Lead O/S
with john d
fellgazelle ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Ian Waterhouse
Dave Bond ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Adrian Whitehall
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
cem 12/Aug/00 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Miles Butteriss
kitkat78 ?/Jul/00 Lead
with Don M
philb ??/2000 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
Hidden 30/Aug/99 Lead
brummievet ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S

scared my dad on this in 99

sdht ??/1999 -
Stoney Boy 10/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Duncan Cundy
Reds 01/May/98 AltLd O/S
with Sezer
Hidden 02/Aug/97 2nd O/S
Marti999 ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Roget 22/May/97 Lead rpt
five 17/May/97 Lead dog
with AJ
Hidden 15/Apr/97 AltLd
CrashMat Rob 01/Aug/96 TR
Hidden 09/Apr/96 AltLd
nickdonohue 13/Aug/95 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Trobbo 02/Aug/95 AltLd
with john blower
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/95 AltLd

I led first pitch, Bill led the second

with Bill G
colin milton 29/Jul/95 AltLd

lead p2

with eric milton
Tim Bateman 16/Jul/95 AltLd
Daniel Wrightson 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with Richard Bradbury
nai ??/1995 Lead
Chris Ellis 03/Sep/94 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Hidden 15/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Budge ??/1994 Lead rpt
with Ceri Jones
Hidden 09/Jul/93 Lead
nickcanute ??/1993 Lead
malc 31/Aug/92 Lead
Budge 18/Jul/92 AltLd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 20/May/92 Lead
jcw ?/Mar/92 -
with Martin Harris
marcoleptic ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Moley
Hidden 12/Oct/91 2nd
tlr 31/Jul/91 AltLd
with Pom
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/91 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Neil R 20/May/90 Lead
with Sharon
dodders 14/May/90 AltLd
with Dick Hargreaves
Hidden ??/1990 -
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
J R R Hartley 29/Oct/89 2nd O/S
with Andy DeMott
Derek Ryden 01/Apr/89 AltLd O/S
with Adam Harvey
steve prior ?/Sep/88 Lead
with Rob W
Roget ??/1988 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden 01/Jun/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/86 2nd
Martin Bennett 12/Apr/86 -
with MT
eroica64 25/Aug/85 2nd
with John Graeme
RichardMc 05/Aug/84 Lead
with Tony Williams
Hidden 09/Jun/84 2nd
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
charlesmfrench 24/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/83 Lead
TonyF ??/1983 Lead
with Tony Cox
The Reaper 26/Sep/82 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/82 AltLd
babymoac 12/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
Ian Clare ??/1981 -
MikeDowsett ??/1981 Lead
with Jon Sharpe
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Lead
with Bob Higginbotham
tapley 28/Jun/79 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Rob Davies ?/Jun/79 Lead
with Angus McLean
Hidden ?/Oct/78 2nd
Hidden 13/Mar/77 AltLd
Nigel Bond 24/Jul/76 Lead
with Andy Brown
Falko 14/Mar/76 Lead O/S
with Alan Taylor
uphillnow ??/1976 Lead
Hidden 02/Nov/75 2nd
Hidden 26/Oct/75 2nd
Hidden 17/Aug/75 AltLd
mikej 03/Jun/73 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
rogerskews ??/1973 AltLd
with CMC Members
Andy Say ??/1973 Lead O/S
clanger ??/1972 -
Dave Musgrove 27/Jan/68 Lead
with Dennis Gray, Bob Knapton
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 57
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set