Derbyshire > Willersley Castle Rocks >
 
Gangue Grooves** HVS 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Pothole Wall
 
Eurospeed >>
40m. Excellent; sustained and varied despite its ugly appearance. Start right of the corner of Pothole Wall and trend right then left to reach a vague crack (the same point can be reached from further right as well). Climb the crack up black rock studded with minerals then traverse right across the slab above, stepping down at its end and finishing up a steep groove. © ROCKFAX
FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (some aid) 1964

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 165 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Excellent, very well protected after the start.
SGD - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Rob Gray

TomRiddelsdell - 2nd β - 30/Aug/14 with Shane Williams

Didn't feel 5b. The most relaxed I've felt on an Hvs
islandlynx - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14 with TomRiddelsdell

FlavioL1989 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14

Great route. Looks a bit poo poo from the deck but has lovely climbing. Description says something about a step down at the end of the slab but I defo didn't do that.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

the power - 2nd rpt - 26/Jul/14 with deacon

nige pacer - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Mike Lea, Chris Coleman

andyclimber - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14

I found it to be rather hard. Once seconded a few years ago.
masa-alpin - Lead RP - 17/Jul/14 with Andy P, Ian S

admackie - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with mark

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Dr Julie

Very good absorbing and sustained climbing with excellent gear after first 4 meters!
simon1965 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with James

On Simon's gear.
Stig - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Simon1965

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14

fantastic, my best ever lead!! top 50 for sure!
Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Andy G, Phil T

Lead clipping pauls insitu gear quality route and awesome onsite by paul
the power - Lead β - 17/Jun/14 with Andy, Paul Hy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

john lynch - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Lewis Andrew

marconi - 2nd - Jun/14 with Mackie

Robb Bert - 17/May/14

robgixer - Lead O/S - 2014

Repeat
jshields - Lead - 01/Aug/13 with Jeff Ingman

Excellent route, varied and interesting.
tatz45 - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Mark Boden

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Jenny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

alp79 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Sam Fletcher

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jul/13

Jenny Clarke - 2nd - Jul/13 with Chriswallis2

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Ian Holtby

Kirill - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/13 with Igor Gotlibovych

cem - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/13 with EeFu Thong

ig248 - 2nd - 15/Jun/13 with Kirill

EeFu - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Charles Moreton

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/13

ejected - 2013

jwhereat - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12

wolverine - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Chris Coleman

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Andrew

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Julian L

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Really great climb, but a grade too hard for me to really enjoy. Very sustained with just 1 proper rest on reaching the ramp. Totally knackered
Jules Lane - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Mynydd James

chrisbussell - 2nd - 07/Aug/12 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

catblack - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/12 with Skippy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12

Much better than it looks from below.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/May/12

petellis - 2nd dnf - 25/May/12 with Sloth

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/12

Vincej - 2nd - 31/Mar/12 with Nevil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Dave Law, Ian Holtby

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Oct/11

first lead after becoming a daddy!!
davewsargent - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/11 with andy neath, paul

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Nick Conway

Barra lead it, belayed by Lee. Slimy due to the dump weather.
masa-alpin - 2nd β - 11/Aug/11 with Lee Barra, Lee P

Kirill - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 06/Aug/11 with Kirill Spiridonov

Really nice route - long!. middle section is sustained, but not really sure were the 5b move is, felt more like sustained 5a climbing.
catblack - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Dan O'Flynn

danoflynn - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Cat Black

eduardo - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Tom Jumar

drcorbasisgod - 2nd rpt - 15/May/11 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 15/May/11 with Chris Parson

shaun walby - 2nd O/S - 02/May/11 with Ian Holtby

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Tom

great climb but ran out of the small to medium gear half way up as i was climbing with Charles gear. Made it that bit harder when it was getting dark! It was as close to being benighted as i would like to get!great route!
jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/11 with Charles French

dangerousoldfool - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Mike O

backed off at the top of the amazing crack system pumped outa my mind. still dont trust my gear of the dirty lime. enjoyed what i did though, brilliant slightly technical climbing through the cracks, HVS on polished lime feels sooo much harder than hvs on grit imo
tallsop - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Dave Saxby

metal arms - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10

Phill Mitch - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/10 with gaz

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10

gordonday - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/10

holters - 2010

alasdair19 - 2010

Second with headtorch
Ketu - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Graeme H

OOPS didn't leave enough daylight for my second, excellent route
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Rob

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/09 with Paul Bolton

hard
jhardwick - 2nd β - Aug/09 with rob grafton

mic_b - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09 with mrsbate

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/09

Jim Walton - 2nd - 02/Jul/09 with Dan Matthewman

excellent route, good gear after the slabby start. sustained and interesting, but where is the 5b move?
danm - Lead - 01/Jul/09 with Jake

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09

gordonday - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with clive

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 13/Jun/09 with Phil Leng

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Bob

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

Excellent - three stars!
Misha - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09

joese7en - Lead O/S - 2009

Coel Hellier - Lead - 03/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/May/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

AntiGrav - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Brilliant
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07

Nice steady climbing, good gear after the start and a technical interlude on the slab
Sankey - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/07 with Tom

Fantastic climb,committing start but steep crack has lots of holds around it, ran out of gear at the top, lots of quickdraws and meduim sized wires needed.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/07 with Brid

Nise traverse on slab below finish
Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 13/Jul/07 with Vishone set (Mike)

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/07

Katya - 2nd - 06/May/07 with Simon Dale

Good route. Pretty intense and sustained up the crack - I need to get fitter!
Si dH - Lead O/S - 03/May/07 with Neil and Simon

russonly - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/07 with JonH

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 2007

With Chris Moorcroft
doughobbs - 2nd - 2007 with Chris Moorcroft

Sankey - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Stephen

Budge - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/06 with Ludovic Laurioux, Dave Valentine-Hagart

dangerousoldfool - 2nd O/S - Sep/06 with Budge

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/06

colin milton - Lead - 19/Jul/06 with pep

did this too warm up, great route just keeps coming 5a/b all the way just about. i was well warmed up when i'd finished. high in the grade
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/06 with Steve Ramsden

Bry - AltLd - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 2006

CrashMat Rob - Lead - 27/Jul/05 with Nicky

Excellent - far better than it looks. Easy 5b or sustained 5a?
cem - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/05 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/04

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2004 with john d

nickdonohue - 2nd - Jul/03 with Jim Barradale

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/03

unfit - 26/Jul/02 with beth and graham

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2002 with Adrian Whitehall

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/01

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/01

Hidden - Lead - 2001

philb - 2nd - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/99

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/99

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/97

nickdonohue - Lead - 02/Aug/97

chris sm - 2nd O/S - Jun/97 with Jon Stevens

A really great route that probably deserves an extra star
andrew300169 - Lead - Jun/97 with Judy

madagascar - 2nd - Jun/97 with andrew300169

nickdonohue - 2nd - 13/Aug/95

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/95 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/93

Roget - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/93

nickcanute - Lead - 1993

Budge - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/92 with Brian Ottewell

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 1992 with Moley

ChrisJD - 2nd - 12/Oct/91

tlr - 2nd - 20/Jul/91 with Roger

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/May/90

Neil R - Lead - 20/May/90 with Sharon

Hidden - 1990

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/88

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/86

sadams - Lead - 05/Oct/85 with Aylesbury CC

Nigel Bond - Lead - 14/Sep/85 with Martin Crosby

shark - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/84 with Phill Dickens

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/84

RichardMc - Lead - 05/Aug/84 with Tony Williams

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/84

Ian Clare - 1984

TonyF - 1983

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 18/Jan/80 with Bill McKee

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
bendevonport, gavinpeach, Hidden, mapperley samurai

Voting
Total votes cast 145
hard E10 of 50
E10 of 50
easy E13 of 50
hard HVS19 of 50
HVS28 of 50
easy HVS0 of 50
hard VS0 of 50
VS0 of 50
easy VS0 of 50
hard 5c0 of 49
5c0 of 49
easy 5c0 of 49
hard 5b1 of 49
5b33 of 49
easy 5b9 of 49
hard 5a6 of 49
5a0 of 49
easy 5a0 of 49
3 Stars37 of 46
2 Stars8 of 46
1 Star1 of 46
0 Stars0 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
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Style of ascent

Lead91 of 165 (55.2%)
Followed62 of 165 (37.6%)
Alt Leads2 of 165 (1.2%)
Unknown10 of 165 (6.1%)

'Climbed'63 of 165 (38.2%)
clean O/S79 of 165 (47.9%)
clean β5 of 165 (3.0%)
clean rpt15 of 165 (9.1%)
clean RP1 of 165 (0.6%)
dnf2 of 165 (1.2%)