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Original Summer Route** IV 5

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Original Summer Route - Variation Start >>
[Original Summer Route, 2 kb]1. Start up a broad fin with laybacks to a reasonable ledge. Belay. 2. Easier ground leads to a technical corner. 3. Climb the corner, turning left at the top to gain, (awkwardly with rucksack) a leftwards traverse with sensational exposure. In situ peg runner midway along the traverse. Belay at the end of the traverse. 3. Climb less technical ground to the top. 4. Abseil back into the gully below.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: Original Summer Route © Dave McG
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 142 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

liamo333 - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/14 with colenn, Rob Noone

colenn - 2nd - 25/Mar/14 with Liam Brophy, Rob Noone

rob87n - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/14 with Colm ennis, Liam Brophy

Nice route in lean condition, too much fixed gear though.
stanleynkk - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/14 with Danny Barden

Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/14

Via first pitch of the Lamp, oops!
LakesWinter - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/14 with Dave

Nice exposure on short leftward s traverse.
kj001 - 2nd - 06/Feb/14 with Phil Dowthwaite

Direct start V,6, with my host, David Sykes, BMC Winter Meet 2014. Horrible weather.
gergosantha - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/14 with David Sykes

Good lead in v difficult conditions on tricky variation start - well worth doing and hard to protect - traverse is nice and airy. 2 pitches.
davesykes - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/14 with Greg

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jan/14

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/14 with Ben Morgan

benwmorgan - 2nd β - 18/Jan/14

Good value for a IV, I'd say. Lovely exposure!
Ly-Cilph - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/14 with Jen M

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14

SuperMike64 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14

Good conditions on Alladins buttress, sugary elsewhere!
davebrox - AltLd - 12/Jan/14

Jim led P1, Adam led P2, then easy ground to descend by Aladdin's Couloir. First grade IV; seemed quite easy conditions with gear available
adam clarke - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with James Hulme

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/14

Great snow all the way, technical start and a few hard moves before topping out too. A great day in fantastic conditions.
Richard Thombs - 2nd O/S - 10/Jan/14 with Mark Walker

Super neve all the way
connor - 09/Jan/14 with konrad doyle

davesa - AltLd - 09/Jan/14 with Dan Bailey

In 2 pitches. P1
lcullum7 - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/14 with Matt Harle

Matt Harle - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/14

Melting fast but out of wind.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/14 with Debbie

perfect nick
Brucemacrosson - AltLd - 05/Jan/14 with Ewan Paterson

This time with the Variant start.
Kirill - Lead rpt - 04/Jan/14 with Nick Clarey

Took a small slip onto fixed gear on the first pitch.. Retreated shortly afterwards, the route was totally plastered and was not going to give any gear. Saving it for next time.
muzz44 - Lead dnf - Jan/14

Really good route. Initial groove quite technical but well protected. Brilliant and intimidating traverse higher up. Did as 2 pitches and abseiled off at the top.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/13 with Martin Haworth

Very good route. Bit of a slip when leading secong pitch which had Andy worried. First pitch felt tech 6, maybe I'm just out of practice.
Martin Haworth - AltLd - 30/Dec/13 with Andy

luckyjim - AltLd - 07/Dec/13 with D Helm

Hidden - Lead - Dec/13

A very good value route and a good option as it didn't rely on turf. The first pitch has some great moves and the the third packs a punch!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 09/Nov/13 with Richard Hines, Debbie Lee

Rickrick - Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/13

BUZZ1984 - 2nd dog - 17/Mar/13 with James Clapham

All pitches!
ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Piers Newton

piersnewton - 2nd - 23/Feb/13 with Olly Roberts

Geoff took the variation at V,6. Led the rest
jon_ridley - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/13 with Geoff Pyatt

variation start, interesting climbing
grp - AltLd - 01/Feb/13

Did first pitch only, couldn't top out due to weather
pwb1981 - 2nd - 28/Jan/13

1st pitch
Bob1984 - 2nd dnf - 28/Jan/13

glenngordon - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/13 with pamela millar

Jasonic - 14/Jan/13

wheelsucker - 2013

Great wee route with good situations for the grade
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 15/Dec/12 with Alex

V,6 variation
Tim Rodgers - AltLd - 10/Dec/12 with David Forster

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Nov/12

No ice in the groove.
JRae - AltLd - 24/Nov/12 with M Watson

mwatson - 24/Nov/12

Led 1
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Andy

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 03/Nov/12 with Ferdia

Nice little route, heavy snow on 60mph winds...pretty grim, but good fun !
Ryan Wilson - AltLd - 18/Feb/12 with Mike Frodsham

nia - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12 with harry

V, 6 variation. Had to rest a few times, but managed to get through the crux in nearly 1 go. Not too shabby from a previous best of III, 4. I'm told it was in hard conditions despite the powder
Thoms6974 - 2nd dog - 05/Feb/12 with Alejandro

V 6 variation, bloody corner on P2 where the peg is, was iced up I had no choice but to use the pag as an axe placement.
el cholo - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/12 with Andy Thomson

abbed off after 1st pitch because my climbing partner had extreme back pain. Didn't mind, was pretty windy!
Stephi - Lead dnf - 04/Feb/12

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/12 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jan/12

With direct start variation (V,6),very enjoyable outing.
BorisVBlade - Lead O/S - 04/Jan/12 with Roman, Jiefei Ma

One silly 5m fall on the first pitch,which was a variation,graded V,6
Ronan72 - 2nd dog - 04/Jan/12 with Jiefei Ma,BorisVBlade

Wasn't inspire by the ripping unfrozen turf in the snow ramp or loose tottering pile of chossy blocks above that weren't iced together and moved when pulled on, so downclimbed to the in-situ ab-tat at the top of the 1st pitch and bailed off.
freudy_love - AltLd dnf - 02/Jan/12 with Dave Douglas

After the thaw I used my hands more than my axes. At the start of the second pitch Paul managed to move a large block just below a fixed yellow bit of rope. The blocks leading to the traverse on the second pitch also looked a bit precarious with little snow or ice to bind them, so we abseiled off. Second pitch is an accident waiting to happen. 1st pitch was good though.
Dave Douglas - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/12 with Paul Freudenthal

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 11/Dec/11 with David

DundeeDave - AltLd - 04/Dec/11 with Ewan Gourlay

Did the V,6 variation start from the toe of the buttress. Did it in 2 pitches.
Andrew Wilson - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Tony Womersley

must ready guidebook - desperate with little ice in the groove above the peg
robertmichaeladams - AltLd dog - 18/Mar/11 with Fiona

jon clayton - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/11 with sasha

hard V 6 variation, heaps of pissing powder and spindrift in all directions... wild.
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11 with nic

Variation start.
mynyddresident - 14/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11

With direct finish
Kirill - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Igor Gotlibovych

AndyL - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Adam Russell

After the snow ramp at the end of the first pitch, went straight up the corner. Exciting climbing, with marginal holds and stemming off a good torque half way up.
ig248 - AltLd - 29/Jan/11 with Kirill

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jan/11

frost - AltLd - 09/Jan/11 with D Almond

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/11

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/11 with tim ashlin

Gordon Lacey - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2011

Climbed in two pitches, I led P2, nice route, plenty of hooks and gear. Good situation on P2!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 21/Nov/10 with Dave Buckett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/10

Hard cruxy bit- scary but glad to have led it
nikkimac - Lead - 13/Nov/10 with Flash

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10

Lead the first pitch to the top of the easy groove, this was my first proper mixed lead :) first grove is tricky, pat lead second crux pitch.
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Pat Ingram

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10

jason - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with manmike

with variation start V/6
twoplates - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/10 with dave sharpe

got pitches 1 and 3. hardest tech 5 i've been on to date! good climbing throughout, upper corners providing a thuggy crux.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/10 with helen and sean

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/10

done in two long pitches then on to the plateau really pleasing route.
Sandy Simpson - AltLd - 23/Jan/10 with Neil Morrison

IceBun - 23/Jan/10 with Sandy Simpson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Dec/09

Dan_S - 2nd O/S - 20/Dec/09

Dunx - 2nd - 17/Dec/09 with Mark Walker

tough top corner
Alco-nomic - AltLd - Dec/09 with Geoff, Andy Wardle

gregor - 29/Nov/09

First of the season, couple inches of powder covering everything made a good warm up route with a couple entertaining pitches. traverse on the third pitch is a sweet spot!
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/09 with Andy Main

pitch 1 and pitch 3 were awesome and contrasting. The traverse was exciting and intimidating but I found the steep corners after to be the crux.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/09 with Warren

Wild day, so a good choice in the circumstances.
WilliamBurnside - AltLd - 08/Mar/09 with John Workman

sgl - AltLd - 07/Mar/09 with Stretch

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/09 with Duanne and Graham

MonkeyDawson - 2nd - 14/Feb/09 with Jonnie 3430 and Duanne White

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/09

BallsOfSteel - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Andy Ruck

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with Stuart Kennedy

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with tris fox

mikecopp - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/08 with Steve Addy

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jan/08

Alco-nomic - AltLd - 2008

Jamie B - Lead - 12/Nov/07 with Lorenzo Antelove

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 15/Mar/07 with Clive

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/06

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Dec/05

akhughes - Lead O/S - Dec/05

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 28/Dec/04 with Paul Tucker

Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Andy Munro

ArnaudG - 2001

Dave Kerr - Lead - 12/Nov/00 with Iain Sharpe

graeme gatherer - 2000

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Feb/95

Wild blizzards and deep dodgy snow - Rapped Aladins.
Yourlead - 2nd - 19/Jan/95 with Graham Penny

frost - AltLd - Dec/94 with J Turner

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 09/Dec/89 with Perric Crellin

Hidden - Feb/87

Hidden - Lead - Nov/84

Led the pitch with the step out left.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/82 with D. Geere

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, oliverk, Hidden, Hanakin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, Charlie Zephyr Booth, groovy_nut, michael83, Dustin, Ian Jones, Hidden, that_idiot, Neil Mackenzie

Voting
Total votes cast 104
hard V0 of 38
V0 of 38
easy V4 of 38
hard IV15 of 38
IV19 of 38
easy IV0 of 38
hard III0 of 38
III0 of 38
easy III0 of 38
hard 60 of 38
60 of 38
easy 625 of 38
hard 55 of 38
58 of 38
easy 50 of 38
hard 40 of 38
40 of 38
easy 40 of 38
3 Stars0 of 28
2 Stars28 of 28
1 Star0 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Lead27 of 142 (19.0%)
Followed23 of 142 (16.2%)
Alt Leads75 of 142 (52.8%)
Unknown17 of 142 (12.0%)

'Climbed'65 of 142 (45.8%)
clean O/S66 of 142 (46.5%)
clean β1 of 142 (0.7%)
clean rpt1 of 142 (0.7%)
dogged4 of 142 (2.8%)
dnf5 of 142 (3.5%)