Rockfax Description
An excellent climb up the big corner. This is the first feature encountered when traversing leftwards below the wall. Start below a slim groove below and slightly right of the corner. Climb the groove then step left into the corner and follow it to the top. © Rockfax

FA. S.Titt 15.4.79 15/Apr/1979

Ticklists: Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Hidden 31/Aug Lead
joem 30/Aug Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 30/Aug Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 30/Aug 2nd O/S
with Flavio
staceyjg 30/Aug Lead O/S

Absolutely loved this climb, my first "real" HVS lead, found it very pleasant with enough of a bite to make it interesting, just my style of route.... Also was constantly drizzling too, so starting to get a little damp!

Hidden 29/Aug 2nd O/S
The Ivanator 14/Aug Lead O/S

VS 4c IMO - good route, atmospheric crag.

with Rob
pete johnson 13/Aug 2nd rpt
with Dave Rumney
Dave Rumney 13/Aug Lead

horribly damp

with Pete Johnston
Hidden 20/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul Lead
hazeysunshine 18/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jul 2nd rpt
Alison Cairns 18/Jul 2nd

Such a beautiful climb

with Hazel J
james1978 14/Jun Lead O/S
with pam
TobyA 06/Jun 2nd O/S
with Tom R
scottcoates 24/May Lead O/S
with Will
chancer 23/May 2nd O/S

The corner is superb.

with Jason Wood
williap 23/May 2nd
sheelba 16/May 2nd
with Kevin
fizzychewitt 09/May 2nd
with Phil, Jayne
albarnett93 04/May 2nd dog

Would have (probably) been a clean ascent but missed a piece of gear just before the crux (dumb I know), had to down climb to get it after successfully completing the crux, then fell off (Y).

with Laura Brown, Dylan Kenworthy
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
TomRiddelsdell 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
islandlynx 13/Sep/14 2nd
simon kimber 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S


with Rob Andrews
luke glaister 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant. One of the best hvs in the area. Great gear. A little run out to more gear. Move the feet and bridge when u can. Ace.

RobScarisbrick 06/Sep/14 2nd
charles-green 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Nice sustained climbing on clean rock with good gear. Very atmospheric crag, nice and quiet.

casey johns 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
RyanOsborne 23/Aug/14 Lead
Alaric 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
poeter210 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mariannekhoo 23/Aug/14 Lead β

It's still a lead with beta, even though I couldn't remember much about the route from seconding it a few years earlier. Think it is easier than Pink 'Un at Saddle Head.

with Peri Cheal
Matt77 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
gazj1986 18/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd O/S
hipyhop 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with cheque
Steven Carter 04/Aug/14 2nd O/S
turnertactics 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Started on Maelstrom Chimney but this looked like a better line. Ample gear placements & holds.

Hidden 26/May/14 Lead dog
Matt250 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/May/14 2nd rpt
Paul Baxter 24/May/14 Lead O/S

First full HVS! Felt fairly sustained

JemGreening 05/May/14 2nd
with Dylan Kenworthy
john. e.r 05/May/14 TR dog
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd
asmith37 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

It somehow manages to feel intimidating most of the way as you can't see the holds from below, but with maybe 1 easy 5a move and reasonable gear its quite steady.

will_benfold 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Pero 14/Sep/13 Lead
John Nuttall 01/Sep/13 Lead
with Jon
metal arms 31/Aug/13 2nd
pigeonslipper 31/Aug/13 Lead
Ann S 26/Aug/13 2nd

Very thuggy HVS well led by John who brought 3 of us up behind him.

with John Carlin
Hidden 24/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Nevil 22/Aug/13 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 22/Aug/13 Lead
joe gallacher 18/Aug/13 2nd

Big swell running below the high tide traverse...climbing team coming the other way who didn't fancy the traverse (understandable given the seas) Matt , undetered , cracked on up it & made a fine job of it too. His first HVS lead and a bold choice...well done buddy BIG RESPECT.

with Matt Moore
mattrm 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First HVS onsight lead. Spot on for the grade. Holds and gear just kept on coming. Some nice bridging and laybacking. Bit of Diff scrambling to get round to the bottom of the route. Which was unexpected.

with Joe Gallacher
nickstephens 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
gg4419 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
khalidq 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Ian Lau
guy757 06/Jun/13 -
soph 25/May/13 2nd
with Annelies Sarrazyn
riddle 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Bry 05/May/13 2nd β
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Becky E 04/May/13 2nd O/S


annak 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Stephenson
mikeyjbs 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Anna Kennedy
Graeme Hammond 04/May/13 Lead O/S


with Becky E
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Neil Morbey 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Alastair
alastairbegley 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
haydng 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Rachel
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Kemics 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Traversed in from the right. Really nice climb.

with Anthony
Anthony Dixon 26/Aug/12 Lead
with Caleb
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jams Crwca 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Zoe, Craig
stuaart 23/Aug/12 2nd


thomasaneurinsmith 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really nice. Loads of gear. Relatively straightforward.

with Stuart Reeves
EllieWoods 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

traversed in high to do the main corner

with Tim
Jamiet297 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

High swell start

Sarah Welsh 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Tim led

timreynolds 18/Aug/12 Lead
Jonners 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Very nice climb, exposed traverse with positive holds to start.

Hidden 18/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
coco rose ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Palindrome ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Aug/12 Lead
with Emma Grant
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
hels bels 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Ed morris 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
David Kay 24/Jun/12 2nd
with Mel Michon
Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
melonmike 13/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Nath
Julie Carroll 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Tristan Graham
melonmike 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
tlmarjot 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Mikey Richmond
keith leonard 11/Mar/12 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
clams ??/2012 Lead
with Sean
Rob84 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Rob Adie, Chris Ashton
drysori 16/Sep/11 Lead
with Jon L
drcorbasisgod 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
cem 30/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Voltemands 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with SCC
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
mariannekhoo 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Tracey and I soloed the traverse to reach the base of the corner. Had rained for 12h solid overnight and the climb was very wet. Otherwise, a very enjoyable climb.

Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Owen W-G 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jim
Hidden 15/Aug/11 2nd
thomasadixon 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good climb.

with Mike
five 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with AV
Stone Muppet 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Wet, but I thought it was ok. Think I might have sandbagged some others saying this, particularly Dan who fell off the following day - sorry!

with ah
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd
Hidden 25/May/11 Lead
onlyfoddington 23/May/11 2nd O/S

Started 10m above actual belay, where Maelstrom Chimney traverse crosses the climb

chrisallan 22/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 2nd
theotherpetehill 22/May/11 Lead O/S

Traversed in along the line of the Severe - a bit spicy!

with David Brock
mjeffery 22/May/11 Lead O/S
mikelaing ?/May/11 2nd
with Ian Whitehead
Rachel Slater 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Olli-C 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Edd Reed 28/Apr/11 Lead

After backing off last year well chuffed to get this done.

with Pat Lowman, Martin Allen
mountain.martin 28/Apr/11 2nd
Alan100 09/Apr/11 -

Would be a good first HVS - loads of protection, nice moves and memorable situation.

Jake Young 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Steve J
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Paul Boggis ??/2011 Lead
stevorobs3 ??/2011 2nd O/S
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
3kidsandanorton 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Pete Templar
John Lewis 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Hobson
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd rpt
teflonpete 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Thought the traverse to the start of the route was the hardest bit, pleasant route.

with Barry
rd20 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Loic
hazeysunshine 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
cem 27/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Ed morris 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route with a surprisingly delicate crux.

with Tom
TM_Horton 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S

fun with awesome positions !

with ed
Dave Reeve 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 11/Aug/10 2nd
Jams Crwca 09/May/10 2nd O/S
with Martin
alitamlit 02/May/10 2nd
with Dave
davefount 02/May/10 Lead O/S

slightly gogarthesk

petegruf 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with luke g
lyneux 01/May/10 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
dansmonkeytroubles 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Dave Reaney
katherinesydney 05/Apr/10 2nd O/S

wow, what a great route! sunshine, exploding waves (got wet), fun traverse in, then some interesting moves to the top

with gary burgess
Aaron Lines ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
ollyhorst 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

my first HVS

with Tom Boeckx
Paul Bowen 26/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead β
ian d f 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Kirill 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Simeon, Gerard Thornley
Shauna 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 19/Jun/09 2nd
with GF
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Hobson
givemetea 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
nic42 03/May/09 2nd O/S
with Jack
ASchwirtz 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Or try my version and travere into it! Goes at the same grade....... or does it?

with Mat tDrain
Dale ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with dave
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Paz 11/Apr/09 2nd β


with TS2,PS
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd
bennybeast ??/2009 Lead O/S
eagleopus 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Gareth
gareth r 01/Aug/08 2nd
with Hywel
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead
leigh 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Ed
Chad123 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

Easy HVS but great position and nice moves.

with Sam and Susie
sgl 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Susie and Chad
Dave Westby ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Excellent route on good holds with good gear.

with Dave Cundy
dan gibson 07/May/07 Lead O/S
with martina
Hidden 28/Apr/07 2nd
Tim W 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S
david morse 05/Apr/07 Lead
with chris todd and "dangermouse"
Hidden 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -
janegallwey ??/2007 Lead
drysori 10/Aug/06 -
with Malcolm
Abi Chard ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

First HVS!

with Ian
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Neil Ireson 21/Jul/06 2nd
with Jane
Oliver Sherman 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with John Eales
feilx 29/May/06 2nd
with Jon
Different Steve 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Guy Reid
Hidden ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Bella 28/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Shaw
Shaw Brown 28/Aug/05 2nd
with Carissa
Ramon Marin 18/Jun/05 2nd
with Dave Reaney
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 30/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/04 Lead
Woody63 03/Aug/04 2nd
with Dave W
Urgles ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with steve c
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/03 2nd
LC ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
alex_th ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Tim Riley
nige pacer 12/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
Laramadness 27/Jul/02 2nd
Laramadness 27/Jul/02 2nd β
with Jim Higgins
Hidden 14/Jul/02 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dave Reaney
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
DubyaJamesDubya 30/Apr/00 Lead O/S

Caroline seconded in good style. Going well early season.

with Caroline...
DafSWMC 29/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with UMIST
Hidden 18/Apr/00 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
alan moore ??/2000 -
cem 02/May/99 Lead O/S
with Gordon Carder
Hidden 01/May/99 2nd O/S
Chris Ellis 15/Aug/98 Lead
with Maggie Ingrams
Hidden 30/May/98 2nd
Si Clapham ??/1998 -
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 2nd
with Jason M
Hidden 31/May/97 2nd
tlr 25/May/96 Lead
with Pete D
Roget 24/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with jon
mikej 10/Jun/95 2nd
with Nick Salmon
Andy Say 16/Apr/95 Lead
Tom V 21/Apr/90 2nd
with Glenn Watson
michael burrows 29/May/88 2nd
with steve williams
Dave Musgrove 29/May/88 2nd
with David
Hidden 10/Jul/87 -
Nigel Coe ??/1987 Lead
Mark Kemball 21/Apr/84 -
with Dave Hall
Hidden 28/Dec/82 -
Hidden ??/0000 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jamie ward, Hidden, Hidden, turdburglar, alexanderjwatts, Leelogs, Hidden, Alan100, Ceridwen, RobRock84, Cardi, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set