A popular route which is often found hard by people who climb it too directly. Start just left of the detached flake on the ledge. Climb up to the bulge then pull round virtually on the arete to gain the finger-traverse which leads back right. Move up and back left to gain the delightful finishing slab. © Rockfax
FA. S.Bancroft 5.4.80 05/Apr/1980
Ticklists: World Graded List.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|dobby 200||05/Sep||Lead O/S||
To escape after failing at test case in the low light.
Quality! Gets E1 in the guide seemed about right at the time?
|Laurence Everitt||08/Aug||Lead RP||
Have rested on lead in the past.
|ian d f||04/Jul||2nd rpt||
Much more polished than it was a few years ago, which is a shame. Still, nice enough.
|luke glaister||14/Jun||Lead O/S||
A route I have been waiting for. And it never disappointed. I am only just braking e1 so I will take E2 on the logbook all day long. But I have to say I found loads of good gear all the way up. Pumpy start and traverse with good gear . Then on your feet to the break and more bomber runners. Then a lovely few delicate moves. Easy e2 and Hard 5b to good gear and the top. I have to give 3 stars cause I felt on top of the world. Awesome line.
|casey johns||14/Jun||2nd dog|
|Martin Haworth||24/May||Lead dog||
Bad route choice in blazing sun and no wind, when your not feeling very well.
|Tony Holdsworth||24/May||2nd dog||
One rest on the move right after the overhang
|Sam Simpson||19/May||Lead O/S|
Really nice, straightforward moves after the steep start
|Alex Winter||16/May||Lead O/S|
|Richard Kendrick||?/May||Lead O/S||
A tough little number!
pumpy due to dropping all wires at the start higher slab bold-er than expected to!
One rest. Misread the sequence on the slab.
Mark H, Ed
|Jake Young||03/Apr||Lead O/S|
|Graeme Hammond||03/Apr||Lead O/S||
Excellent, bit tired on the upper wall but made things more sweeter topping out
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2015||-|
Karen Mackintyre, Niels Ernst williams
Tough, pumpy and greasy
The description says traverse until you are virtually on the arete. Might have gone off route since i had one hand and one foot around it. perhaps that's why it only felt hard E1. Loved the slabby section, once i got over the pump
|Adam Booth||25/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Olga Murden, Mike Grant
Go on then, I'll have E2
Floundered - got too pumped on the inital overhang and failed to complete the traverse rightwards. Then spent a long time trying to recover and not reallty achieving it.
In the rain :(
E1 5b in Rockfax. First few bits of gear already in place from Rachel's attempt. The "delightful finishing slab" was as dirty and wet and steep as it looked.
|john lynch||16/May/14||Lead O/S||
Nice route, thought it was slightly tough, but steady at E1.
Felt hard assuming E1, so hopefully I wasn't just being rubbish.
Polished too far to enjoy fully. A victim of proximity to the usual ab?
|tim newton||18/Apr/14||Lead O/S|
|adam 24||18/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
|James S||13/Mar/14||2nd O/S||
|Ed morris||08/Mar/14||Lead rpt||
Relatively steady this time, No problems with injured knee.
|Sarah Black||08/Mar/14||Lead O/S|
|Rachel Somerville||04/Sep/13||Lead RP||
Fell off on the hand traverse after the juggy start. Totally misread it and missed an obvious good foothold. Good route.
|Liam Ingram||31/Aug/13||Lead β||
Ground up after a rest. Solid E2 5c with the polish, total sandbag at E1. Getting to the rest at the end of the traverse is hard!
|Matt Cooke||26/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Lovely route but less slabby than rockfax makes out and not E1 5b.
|Owen W-G||24/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Slippery conditions, knackered at end of day, started raining half way, all felt very uphill and not the softie I was hoping for. Possibly stayed on the L arete one naughty move too long before coming back to the centre of the slab, didn't like hand traversing that greasy flake
Strenuous start, steep route
|dan gibson||11/Aug/13||Lead rpt||
Not easy to see the line. Didn't think it was that great a route.
|Qisheng Xie||27/Jul/13||2nd O/S||
Wet lower section, slipped off came down and started again.
|Phill Mitch||23/Jun/13||2nd rpt||
|Tim Rodgers||24/May/13||2nd dog|
|nigel pearson||04/May/13||Lead O/S||
Great climb. Scary polished foothold after overhang made placing gear unnerving
|Will Hunt||04/May/13||Lead O/S|
|Luke Brooks||29/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
still desperate! 2nd this time
Though it felt hard. Made it through the crux (allegedly) reversed to check I had the sequence. Lowered off, climbed it and then fell of the hand traverse going too high, too boxed to try again.
|Ian Broome||12/Aug/12||Lead rpt||
Had forgotton i'd been on this before. Stout at bottom, enjoyable upper section.
Had to aid the route has nothing left for the powerful start
Gwen Thomson, Nick Smith
|Dave Foster||10/Aug/12||Lead rpt||
Glad to see this is graded E2. Thought I was top-roping an E1 and disappointed to need 2 rests.
|Rick Ashton||29/Jul/12||2nd dog||
Felt very very hard.
|Ramon Marin||04/Jun/12||2nd O/S||
|Harry Thorpe||02/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
Steep start, lovely afterwards.
tadas the badass
First E2 lead. One rest. Should lose a star on account of the polish on the lower section.
Attempted to lead it but struggled moving into the groove. Backed off and followed the route instead. I think flash pump may have caused a few issues but I still found the move horribly awkward on second.
|Chi Cheng||03/May/12||Lead rpt|
Fell off the steep start due to mega pump first go. Lowered to the ground and did it cleanly (by the skin of my teeth) second time around. Great route!
|andy dunn||01/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
|John Tanner||21/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Very enjoyable, easier than E2 though
Did feel a bit soft for E2. Kept looking for gear anticipating the 5c move, which never really came. Amazing route though.
|Andrew Barker||17/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
A little bit eliminate as it seemed like it would be much easier if you strayed into the route to the left to pass the bulge.
|Ollie B||13/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Polished which when hot makes it quite tough. Probably is E2 although I find it hard to see how this is 5c? no particularly hard moves and the climbing felt fairly steady. Takes a brilliantly winding line up the obvious upper slab features and on fairly reasonable holds.
Fun route and a nice surprise that it was E2 instead of E1. Although it felt hard E1 5b rather than E2 5c to be honest. None the less, my first E2 lead onsight tick!
Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Slipped moving up the first steep bit, gutted, great climb, great lead from Rob
Cragking, Jack Bradbrook
Fun. Nice bouldery central section.
Not as good as it looked - quite polished at the start
|Richard Hall||05/Jun/11||Lead β||
Easy for E2. A bit polished but it doesn't really matter.
did feel a little stiff at e1. top wall super nice/
claire jane carter
Wet and greasy through lower steep part, nearly fell off.. good banter with a nice amount of abuse coming from mates chilling ontop! haha
|Cragrat Rich||27/May/11||Lead O/S||
Stiff warm up to the weekend but difficulties seemed very shortlived, overall providing good moves on solid holds. The rockfax E1 5b grade seemed more accurate to me? Had a great days climbing from this start
|Rachel Slater||01/May/11||Lead O/S|
|zero six||?/May/11||Lead O/S|
|Chi Cheng||30/Apr/11||2nd O/S|
|dan gibson||21/Apr/11||Lead rpt||
|david morse||02/Apr/11||Lead rpt||
|3 Names||29/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
|Dave Foster||15/Aug/10||2nd O/S||
Good lead by Andy after getting pumped silly at the start. Steady second but the gear looks a bit fiddly.
|Brian Rodgers||04/Aug/10||2nd O/S|
And I thought this was a good choice to warm up on...!
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||11/Jun/10||2nd O/S||
|Paul Bowen||04/Jun/10||Lead rpt|
|Phil PBC||18/May/10||2nd O/S||
really good climb, now down graded in new guide to E1 5b**
|metal arms||03/May/10||Lead O/S|
|Matthew Gray||?/May/10||2nd β|
|Dr Caterpillar||24/Apr/10||Lead RP||
pulled ropes, 2nd go
|irish paul||18/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
|Byronius Maximus||03/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Fantastic route, shame it fizzles out a little at the top.
|Duncan Campbell||28/Feb/10||2nd O/S||
COOL! slightly pumpier on lead but still good....cant comment on the grade!
|Tim W||18/Oct/09||Lead O/S|
good interesting start
|Richard Horn||26/Sep/09||2nd rpt|
|ian d f||09/Sep/09||2nd O/S||
fell off just before the hand traverse from pump. got it Secound time. No hard moves on the superb slab above:)
|Dave Bond||26/Jun/09||Lead O/S|
|chris sm||30/May/09||Lead O/S||
|chris wyatt||29/Mar/09||Lead rpt||
Originally seconded many years ago with Chris Praxmarer. To me this is solid E2. The first resting position was extremely welcome
|Andrew Sloan||31/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
Stiff move at the end of the hand traverse. Lovely slab climbing above.
|Richard Horn||12/Jul/08||Lead O/S|
|Alex Mason||03/Apr/08||Lead O/S||
pleasant, with stiff moves at r-hand end of flake.
|Beck Holland||19/Jul/07||2nd dog|
Pretty polished at the bottom, worth E2 I think even if you head leftwards at the overlap.
|Ramon Marin||07/Aug/06||Lead dog||
third time lucky - rock not damp, me not knackered
|belay bunny turned bad||??/2006||-|
|Kev Little||??/2006||Lead O/S|
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||16/May/05||Lead||
Only worth E1 really. It is no more polished now than it was in 1990.
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||-|
|Phill Mitch||??/2005||Lead O/S||
|ian caton||??/2001||Lead O/S||
Took a ping off this a decade earlier when graded E1.
Trevor Stevens, Adrian Casey
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S||
|John Southworth||?/May/99||Lead O/S||
|Southern Mark Smith||??/1999||-|
|michael burrows||06/Jul/96||Lead rpt||
|Stoney Boy||21/Apr/95||Lead O/S||
|craig h||04/Apr/95||Lead O/S|
|Colin Edwards||??/1995||Lead O/S|
In the rain!
polished holds as I recall
|craig h||?/Aug/92||2nd O/S||
|Tony Little||02/May/92||Lead O/S||
Merk and Travis
|michael burrows||15/Apr/90||Lead rpt||
|Rich Kirby||13/Apr/90||Lead O/S|
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||21/Aug/87||2nd||
|Steve Crowe||21/Apr/87||2nd O/S|
|Jelly Mould Surfer||??/1987||2nd O/S|
|Mike Owen||24/Oct/82||Lead O/S||
|steve L||08/Jul/79||Lead O/S||