Rockfax Description
The prominent crack in the side wall of the rubble-filled gully. Start at the bottom of the crack and climb to the top. Steep and awkward but quite satisfying.
There is an eliminate called The Wake, E4 6a which starts up the Kraken and tackles the wall on the right. © Rockfax

FA. S.Monks 10.78 Oct/1978

Hidden 09/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
Brian H 15/Aug 2nd O/S

Much more enjoyable than it looks.

mynyddresident 07/Aug Lead O/S

Needed big gear for the top, didn't have any... Enjoyed it though .

with KP
soph 16/Jul 2nd rpt
with Adam Brown
pearson9596 04/Jul Lead O/S
ian d f 04/Jul 2nd O/S

Not sure whether this was enjoyable or not. Probably better in the afternoon, once the moisture has gone!

FlavioL1989 25/May Lead O/S
morganator 25/May Lead
with Nicky Parkin
mike lawrence? 09/Apr Lead
with Metal
Andrew1 05/Apr Lead
with Hulda
Hidden 05/Apr 2nd
Monster 18/Mar 2nd O/S
with Robin Neath, Steve Quinton
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
nickstephens 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
gg4419 08/Sep/14 2nd O/S
valecoastclimber 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
simon kimber 05/Sep/14 2nd
with Rob Andrews
Misha 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
dan gibson 30/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Misha
tim newton 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for years. Better than it looks! Glad to have a biggish cam for the top.

Olli-C 03/May/14 Lead dnf

Broke a large foothold at the bottom, got to below the wide crack at bottled it.

shed_hed 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Greasy at the start. Actually enjoyed this more than I thought I would!

PaulTanton 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Just one hard move at the start, but not very hard. The rest is steady, fun climbing. Lot better than it looks.

dswansonlow 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
steve.warrington 31/Aug/13 Lead β
Lessworkmoreclimbing 27/Aug/13 2nd RP

Fell off at bottom trying to get gear out. Lowered down and did whole route clean from ground. Really enjoyed this route.

with Kev
Ed morris 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with -martin
shoulders 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead
mikeyjbs 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Charles Green
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Grezza 18/May/13 Lead

awkward and - if everyone is honest- not particularly pleasant

with Paul E
Fran S8 06/May/13 2nd
Goose4 26/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
theotherpetehill 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 14/Jul/12 2nd rpt
ellis 20/May/12 2nd O/S
with Alan Willoner
Billg 19/May/12 Lead O/S

Really great route. Take the biggest cam you own for the top crack!

with Ollie
pembrokeshirecaver 16/May/12 Lead O/S
with Adam
david morse 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Josh,Nath+Mikey
Dean177 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Dibdawg 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Katya 28/Aug/11 2nd dog
Haydn Jones 08/Aug/11 2nd O/S

hard start but eased up

with dan
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
mountain.martin 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Exciting, varied climbing with an adventurous feel, although it is well protected. A confidant commited approach helps.

feilx 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 27/Jun/11 2nd
with Barni
barni 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with luke
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Phill Mitch 23/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with mick
Alex Mason 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for an age but always greasy. Was today but did it anyway. Awesome route, a proper trad climb. E2 without a few big cams (3+ size and quantity).

dan gibson 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
ksjs 31/Aug/10 2nd O/S

tricky enough wee start then pleasure all the way. better than Rockfax makes out

with phil
3 Names 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Chosen for the shade it provided but turned out to be better than expectations. The top offwidth was errr... fun? Not.

Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
catblack 12/Aug/10 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S

A brilliant and underrated route marred only by its proximity to the chossy corner at the top and the fact that it tops out into choss. A steep thuggy start followed by a more delicate finish. I thought it was tough for E1.

Rich Kirby 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Nige
Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
metal arms 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S

A few holds snapped off - probably shouldn't be starred

with Conner - UBMC
Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 01/May/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
RobRock84 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S

what a great climb,really enjoyed this route

with Robin neath
cem 30/Aug/09 2nd
clipskipper 02/May/09 2nd dog

Steep, steep start, and the crack further up defeated my tired arms.

with Davey Boy
chris wyatt 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

I would recommend this route to anyone who likes 'real old skool' stuff. Jamming, laybacking, difficult gear placements (especially without big cams) Dampness etc. You can't beat it

Bern 29/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Andy Mos
Aaron Lines ??/2009 Lead O/S
Paz 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Hard move at the start took me a while. Don't forget a Cam 5 or so if you've got one.

with TS
Boy ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Andy S 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rich
alex_th 11/Apr/04 2nd
with Tim Riley
dickypips ??/2003 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2001 -
Hidden 08/Sep/99 Lead
Hidden 01/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1989 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/83 -
Lone Rider ??/1982 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, JonmapDL, Ropeboy, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
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High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Low 5a
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Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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