Kraken** E1 5b
[Kraken, St Govan's, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The prominent crack in the side wall of the rubble-filled gully. Start at the bottom of the crack and climb to the top. Steep and awkward but quite satisfying.
There is an eliminate called The Wake, E4 6a which starts up the Kraken and tackles the wall on the right. © ROCKFAX

FA. S.Monks 10.78 Oct/1978

Photo: Kraken, St Govan's © dave657
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 99 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/15

Much more enjoyable than it looks.
Brian H - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Kafoozalem

Needed big gear for the top, didn't have any... Enjoyed it though .
mynyddresident - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/15 with KP

soph - 2nd rpt - 16/Jul/15 with Adam Brown

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Ian Faulkner

Not sure whether this was enjoyable or not. Probably better in the afternoon, once the moisture has gone!
ian d f - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Michael P

Awkward and hard
FlavioL1989 - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Martin Levy

morganator - Lead - 25/May/15 with Nicky Parkin

mike lawrence? - Lead - 09/Apr/15 with Metal

Andrew1 - Lead - 05/Apr/15 with Hulda

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/15

Monster - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/15 with Robin Neath, Steve Quinton

NuclearNev - 2015

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Nick Stephens

valecoastclimber - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14

simon kimber - 2nd - 05/Sep/14 with Rob Andrews

Misha - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Dan

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/14 with Misha

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/14 with rachel slater

Wanted to do this for years. Better than it looks! Glad to have a biggish cam for the top.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14 with Tim Newton

Broke a large foothold at the bottom, got to below the wide crack at bottled it.
Olli-C - Lead dnf - 03/May/14 with Mike Richmond

Greasy at the start. Actually enjoyed this more than I thought I would!
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Just one hard move at the start, but not very hard. The rest is steady, fun climbing. Lot better than it looks.
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Mark Grist

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster

steve.warrington - Lead β - 31/Aug/13 with Nik Goile

Fell off at bottom trying to get gear out. Lowered down and did whole route clean from ground. Really enjoyed this route.
Lessworkmoreclimbing - 2nd RP - 27/Aug/13 with Kev

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with -martin

shoulders - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13 with andy sharp

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/13

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Charles Green

Hidden - Lead - Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13

awkward and - if everyone is honest- not particularly pleasant
Grezza - Lead - 18/May/13 with Paul E

Fran S8 - 2nd - 06/May/13 with john nightingale

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/13 with Tom Adams

Hidden - 2013

theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Ross McKerchar

quiffhanger - 2nd rpt - 14/Jul/12

ellis - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12 with Alan Willoner

Really great route. Take the biggest cam you own for the top crack!
Billg - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Ollie

pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 16/May/12 with Adam

david morse - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Josh,Nath+Mikey

Dean177 - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Alan Dibben

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Dean Merchant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12

Katya - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/11 with Chris Coleman

hard start but eased up
Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/11 with dan

tonanf - AltLd - Aug/11 with john sun

Exciting, varied climbing with an adventurous feel, although it is well protected. A confidant commited approach helps.
mountain.martin - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/11

feilx - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Andy L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 27/Jun/11 with Barni

barni - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/11 with Si

Phill Mitch - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/11 with mick

Wanted to do this for an age but always greasy. Was today but did it anyway. Awesome route, a proper trad climb. E2 without a few big cams (3+ size and quantity).
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/11 with Tommy Cole

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with richard lade

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

tricky enough wee start then pleasure all the way. better than Rockfax makes out
ksjs - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with phil

3 Names - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Sumee Holloway

Chosen for the shade it provided but turned out to be better than expectations. The top offwidth was errr... fun? Not.
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

irish paul - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Sarah Joyce

catblack - 2nd dog - 12/Aug/10 with Andy Barker

A brilliant and underrated route marred only by its proximity to the chossy corner at the top and the fact that it tops out into choss. A steep thuggy start followed by a more delicate finish. I thought it was tough for E1.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Cat Black

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Nige

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10

metal arms - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

A few holds snapped off - probably shouldn't be starred
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Conner - UBMC

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/10

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/10 with Mia Stacey

what a great climb,really enjoyed this route
RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Robin neath

cem - 2nd - 30/Aug/09 with Graham Dolman

Steep, steep start, and the crack further up defeated my tired arms.
clipskipper - 2nd dog - 02/May/09 with Davey Boy

I would recommend this route to anyone who likes 'real old skool' stuff. Jamming, laybacking, difficult gear placements (especially without big cams) Dampness etc. You can't beat it
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Nik Goile

Bern - 2nd rpt - 29/Mar/09 with Andy Mos

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 2009

Hard move at the start took me a while. Don't forget a Cam 5 or so if you've got one.
Paz - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with TS

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

daveayton - Lead O/S - 2005

Andy S - Lead O/S - 22/May/04 with Rich

alex_th - 2nd - 11/Apr/04 with Tim Riley

dickypips - Lead O/S - 2003

Tim Sparrow - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/99

Hidden - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1989 with Scott Titt

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/87

Hidden - 02/Jan/83

Lone Rider - 1982

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, JonmapDL, Ropeboy, Dr Caterpillar

Total votes cast 86
hard E20 of 30
E22 of 30
easy E211 of 30
hard E19 of 30
E17 of 30
easy E11 of 30
hard HVS0 of 30
HVS0 of 30
easy HVS0 of 30
hard 5c0 of 29
5c0 of 29
easy 5c0 of 29
hard 5b17 of 29
5b11 of 29
easy 5b1 of 29
hard 5a0 of 29
5a0 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
3 Stars5 of 27
2 Stars16 of 27
1 Star5 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....1 of 27
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP