Pembrokeshire > St. Govan's Head >
 
Deranged*** E2 5c

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[Jus on the crux of Deranged - St Govans, 3 kb]A superb route which follows an intricate line up the wall. Start in the centre of an undercut roof, below a left-trending grooveline. Pull onto the wall, climb the groove then, at its top, step right into another groove and follow this to a roof. Move right around this then make a hard move back left above it to a flake/pillar which leads to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. A.Sharp 24.6.78 24/Jun/1978

Ticklists: Faves, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Jus on the crux of Deranged - St Govans © The Pylon King
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 314 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

nickstephens - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Nick Stephens

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Rob Andrews

thedoctorisin - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with ro jones

red_rhodesha - 2nd - 23/Aug/14 with Ollie Elms

Pippa - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/14 with Jon

Cor blimey! Amazing top section!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/14 with GuyVG

save something for the top
GuyVG - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with duncan campbell

JM - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Stevo, Dave Pinnington

guy757 - 13/Jul/14

stevorobs3 - 2nd RP - 23/Jun/14 with Ian Faulkner

danJBA - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Mike

Lovely climbing, very easy for E2
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Ben Ochner

What a fantastic route, the top groove was exciting! It was a bit greasy in places...
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Richard Nicholson

Slick - 2nd - 15/Jun/14 with Alastair Begley

Dan0Me - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Jack G

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/May/14

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 16/May/14 with Lewis Andrew

First white-walled corner was very tricky. Slipped out of it while getting pumped trying to remove stuck gear sans nut key! Nice direct line and interesting climbing
mountain_jay - 2nd dog - 05/May/14 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

Seconded Will on it last year and came off on the final crux section, this year felt much more comfortable, but it was still hard!
hlegge - 2nd rpt - 04/May/14 with Adam Knightly

M_Robinson - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14 with DanielGyi

Tom Livingstone - 2nd β - 22/Apr/14 with Phil Dowthwaite

markalmack - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with james marjot

bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/14

Misha - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Tim Newton

tim newton - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with misha nepogodiev

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Rick Kirby

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Ian

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/14 with Adam Lincoln

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/14

phil64 - Lead rpt - Apr/14 with tom livingstone

Pete got lost at top, not sure if this should be possible on a true 3 star route
Cardi - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Pete G

Frank the Husky - 2014

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/13

Fab climbing, but Not sure I thought the top was harder than some other bits really.
Shauna - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Jules

Awesome, quality climbing between good rests. Good gear. Top move is probably the hardest move on the route but not sure if it just felt hard cos I was knackered!
Rachel Somerville - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Nik

steve.warrington - Lead β - 31/Aug/13 with Nik Goile

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Dan Osbasabooboo

DanOsb - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with pat dawson

shoulders - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13 with jon shewring, mike shewring, andy sharp

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/13

Fun climbing on jugs with loads of gear, good rests and a cheeky little surprise right at the top. Condensing and slippery lower down.
jkarran - Lead - 26/Aug/13 with Smith, Aly

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/13 with Richard Snow

tatz45 - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/13 with Katy Vose

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Qi

Qisheng Xie - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Curly Chris

cooperman - 2nd β - 05/Jul/13 with Greg Foster

Phill Mitch - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/13 with mick

First E2 and really good
climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/13 with Jake Young, Mike Watson

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/13 with Climbingsheep, Mike

mr mills - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with edwin

Grezza - Lead - 18/May/13 with Paul E

5b, good gear and not sustained. Brilliant route and excellent climbing.
Olli-C - Lead rpt - 06/May/13 with Rachel Slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd rpt - 06/May/13 with Olli Crudge

Stuart Johnston - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/13

jcw - 2013

VPJB - 2013

great route. still had a sting in the tail. Marty ran out of juice at the top overhang, so i finished.
mountain_jay - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/12 with Martin Grenfell

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/12

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with jacob loyd

jacobjlloyd - 2nd β - 09/Aug/12 with Dougie

soph - 2nd - 27/Jul/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

James Marshall - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Pete Shepherd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/12

a.mazing Free cam up for grabs...
thetradlad - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Harry Thorpe

Awesome route.
Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Jake Lodge

Tried to lead but took 30ft whipper off the crux. Unpleasantly hot day but thats a poor excuse probably just a bit beyond me at the moment.
pembrokeshirecaver - 2nd - 26/May/12 with Adam

lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Al Benson

al99 - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Luke Hodson

melonmike - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Nath

barni - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with fra

benchwarmer - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Brilliant pitch!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 07/Apr/12 with Adam Booth

haydng - 2nd rpt - 06/Apr/12 with Dave

esther - Lead - Apr/12

AWSOME ROUTE!!
cheesey959 - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with trevor massiah

Adam Coles - Lead O/S - 2012 with ben park

Absolutely superb, one of the best routes I've done ever! Absorbing climbing from start to finish, sustained but not pumpy and with the crux right at the top!
climbingpixie - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

andy dunn - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Mike, J

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/11

liamoloughlin - Lead β - 27/Aug/11

first e2! really nice and varied moves
CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Mark

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/11

JRae - Lead - 26/Aug/11 with M Watson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

Love the crux at the top. Rockfax contradicts itself again.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

Caspar - 2nd - 14/Aug/11 with Ross Davidson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/11 with Mike

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 10/Aug/11 with Jon

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Viv

tonanf - AltLd - Aug/11 with john sun

redjerry - TR O/S - Aug/11

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with rob lay

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with sarah harrison

steve.warrington - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Nik Goile

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/11

HamishD - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Wil Treasure

drysori - 2nd - 30/Jun/11 with hamdunn

Took a screamer off the last hold, pulled back on and finished it. Fantastic route but the pump caught me like a freight train right at the bitter end.
Dave Foster - Lead - 19/Jun/11 with Jim, Si

Lovely crux awesome lob dave
ojp - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Jim, Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Si

Brilliant. Found a hands of rest after the crux by pressing shoulder into the corner. Got me psyched to finish the wild topout.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with stefan

Blasted through the crux but got abit pumped on the last few meters, cool move swinging out into the last holds!
Stefan_Morris - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Edmundmorris

Felt hard at E2.
Jon_Warner - 2nd O/S - 28/May/11 with Dan P

Scary move above gear near the top, made worse by being short!
Glyn - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Amy

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - 2nd dog - 01/May/11 with Rachel Slater

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 22/Apr/11 with richard lade

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/11 with loundsy

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Apr/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

Paul Boggis - 2nd - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/10

Awesome route, lots of different styles of climbing an keeps going!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Becca

Felt hard, fell off getting gear then struggled with the final section.
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/10 with Tom

richardr - Lead dog - 07/Sep/10

Very satisfying end to the bank holiday weekend. Really good quality and varied climbing. Technical, balancy and butch without being very sustained. Last moves are tasty!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Katya - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Chris Coleman

liamoloughlin - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Pippa - Lead - 28/Aug/10 with Jon

Had to rest pulling through the roof, and again in the groove above. Turns out Charles probably didn't go as far right as he was supposed to, making it harder.
Ant Man Bee - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/10 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/10 with Paul Bolton

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Loz

climbed in good style, flowed through the top crack... first pembroke e2
Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

dav - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Gill B

Billg - 2nd - 14/Aug/10 with Will Calvert

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/10

Dave Reeve - Lead β - 13/Aug/10 with Tony Payne

tigertim - 2nd - 13/Aug/10 with Tony Payne, Dave Reeve

Graham Iles - Lead - 13/Aug/10 with Neil Stabbs

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 08/Aug/10 with Nige

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

soph - 2nd rpt - Aug/10 with Lindy Smith

lovely climbing all the way, great traverse on jugs to a bit of a pumpy surprise at the top!
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/10 with mick

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 12/Jun/10 with GF

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Conner - UBMC

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 08/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/10

metal arms - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 02/May/10 with Thomas Renshaw

RobRock84 - 2nd rpt - 14/Apr/10 with Solva Tom

Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Angus Kille, Fennerz

fennerz - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Angus and Ed

what an ace route, got loads of little sections you sort of wander about on, nice view aswell
anguskille - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Tom and Ed

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Mia Stacey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 13/Oct/09 with GF

Paul Bowen - Lead β - 27/Sep/09 with Rebecca Hayes

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

Mr Sparkle - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Liam O'Loughlin

Very stiff for the grade, pumpy top-out
jimbonfire - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09

ace route, bit tricky towards the top i thought.
spidey - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

Rob Pitt - 2nd - 08/Aug/09 with Owen Davies

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/09

haydng - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/09 with Rob

simonp - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - Lead - Jul/09

alaan - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/09

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09 with Al

seconded 07. nice route with a smashing finish.
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 03/Jun/09 with Nick Rabb

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with WIl Treasure

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 05/May/09 with Harry

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 03/May/09

briar4012 - 2nd dog - 03/May/09 with Marti

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Clio

Clee - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Steve

cem - 2nd rpt - 02/May/09 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/09

First Pembs E2 clean OS, cracking route
irish paul - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Sarah Joyce

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

RobRock84 - 2nd - 06/Dec/08 with Steve Quinton

Split it into a tag-team ascent under the roof 6 metres from the top!
Richard Hession - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/08 with Stu

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/08

Dave Reeve - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Tony Payne

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/08

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/08 with Tom Wild

gforce - Lead - 08/Aug/08 with Jason

tonanf - AltLd - 08/Aug/08 with Pep

morganator - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/08 with Rich Cross

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/08

Brilliant route with many 5b cruxes and good rests in between. One of my best ever leads.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Gav

Richard Horn - 2nd - 17/May/08

Bern - 2nd - 03/May/08 with Andy Mos

haydng - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/08 with Will

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2008 with A. Howarth

spacey - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/07 with paul evans

feilx - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Heather

Hidden - 2nd β - 17/Aug/07

Paz - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/07 with TS

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with James Parrot

johnboyrevel - Lead - Jul/07 with Faye

top was very wet, and it was the end of a long day, but hey I'm not trying to make excuses!
Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 28/May/07 with Rebecca Holland

Beckholland - 2nd dog - 28/May/07 with Dan_Carroll

Done this loads of times. Good route.
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 28/May/07 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/07

Tim W - 2nd rpt - 20/May/07 with Ali Kennedy

First E2 lead
Tim W - Lead O/S - 19/May/07 with Dylan Tomlinson

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 03/May/07 with Al

drysori - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Jus - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

RichS-Bristol - 2007

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Dave Reaney

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/06

david morse - 2nd - Aug/06 with chris todd

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/06 with Doug

Hidden - Jul/06

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - May/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/06

Consistent and sustained interest - a smile is brought to your face when you realise that the route has 'upped its pace' near the top, thus making it E2.
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Gareth Buckley

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

Bern - 2006

chris wyatt - 2006 with barrie doyle

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2006

belay bunny turned bad - 2006

ian caton - Lead O/S - 2006 with Abi

seconded will on this a few years before
GuyM - 2006 with patrick

Chad123 - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Huw

Brown - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/05

ellis - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Will Woodhead

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

daveayton - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/May/04

alex_th - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/04 with Tim Riley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/03

whispering nic - Jul/03 with lee byrnes

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd rpt - 25/May/03 with Viv

cem - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/02 with Mandy Haywood, Rod Strachan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/02

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/00

Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Megan Beaumont

dickypips - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/00

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

John Southworth - Lead O/S - May/99 with Stone Elworthy

Neil Ireson - Lead - 1999 with John

sadams - Lead - 04/May/98 with John Boyle

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/97

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Hidden - Lead - 1997

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 10/Sep/96 with Ted Lister

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/94

Hidden - 1994

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/93 with Rachel Nicolson

cold, rain
NeilGriffiths - 21/Feb/93 with Nick

Mark Kemball - Lead - 28/Jul/92 with Alison Dorey

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/92

kp64zl - Lead - May/92 with Jason M

Roget - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/91 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/91

ChrisJD - Lead dog - 27/May/90

Hidden - Lead rpt - May/90

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

Hidden - Lead - 1990

jasper11 - 1990

Hidden - 1990

At the end of a day of soloing (partner didnt show) and suddenly felt very tired near the top
shark - Solo - 02/Apr/89

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 27/Mar/89 with George MacIntyre

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 12/Jun/88 with John Wilkinson

Hidden - Lead - 03/Oct/87

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 20/Sep/87 with Doré Green

steve taylor - 2nd - Apr/87 with Nicky Beresford

andy gittins - 1987

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/85

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jul/85

Hidden - 27/Apr/85

shark - 2nd dog - 16/Apr/85 with Richard O Mara

Dave Musgrove - 21/Apr/84 with Paul Dawson

Mike Owen - 09/Apr/83 with Elaine Owen

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 1983 with John Arran, Ted Lister

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Apr/82 with Dave Fernley

Hidden - 2nd - 1982

Hidden - 1981

steve L - 2nd - 24/Jun/78 with Pete, sharpie

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steven Carter, hutchay, Hidden, Alex the Alex, RFWilkie, Hidden, gurumed, Hidden, JonmapDL, Dean177, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, bpmclimb, Hidden, spacey, Kyuzo

Voting
Total votes cast 233
hard E30 of 78
E30 of 78
easy E30 of 78
hard E214 of 78
E255 of 78
easy E27 of 78
hard E12 of 78
E10 of 78
easy E10 of 78
hard 6a0 of 80
6a0 of 80
easy 6a0 of 80
hard 5c2 of 80
5c36 of 80
easy 5c26 of 80
hard 5b14 of 80
5b2 of 80
easy 5b0 of 80
3 Stars67 of 75
2 Stars7 of 75
1 Star1 of 75
0 Stars0 of 75
Bag of .....0 of 75
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 314 (0.3%)
Lead175 of 314 (55.7%)
Followed105 of 314 (33.4%)
Toproped1 of 314 (0.3%)
Alt Leads4 of 314 (1.3%)
Unknown28 of 314 (8.9%)

'Climbed'100 of 314 (31.8%)
clean O/S161 of 314 (51.3%)
clean β9 of 314 (2.9%)
clean rpt31 of 314 (9.9%)
clean RP1 of 314 (0.3%)
dogged12 of 314 (3.8%)