Clapton's Crack* VS 4c
[Clapton's Crack, pitch 1, 3 kb]2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A reasonable route that has an energy-sapping first pitch. Start below the corner.
1) 4c, 22m. Ascend the corner, strenuously in places to a belay on the right.
2) 4a, 30m. Move up the wall to gain the rightwards-trending ramp that leads to a slab. Follow this to the foot of a crack on the left. Climb the slab and crack up left to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge.

Photo: Clapton's Crack, pitch 1 © caradoc
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 220 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

I lead pitch two, after taking a small fall pumping out on pitch one - I'd missed a crucial nubbin for bridging on. A disappointing route overall, the first pitch was too short to warrant any starrage and hard for the grade.
Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/15 with Pete Dollman

AndrewP - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/15

martinlevya82 - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15

TGreen - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Rosie Henstock

Decided to rope up for the approach as it was quite slippy. Lead P1 - Awesome! Nicely sustained bridging and pro wherever you want it!
Rosie Henstock - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Tom Green

wi11 - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/15 with Sabby

Tremfest clean up of approach ... New routing on top pitch up the arete as crack and chimney overgrown - hvs 4c my way? but very fun! First pitch very good. Approach cleaned as had been a rockfall, but rockfall has made it harder - advise use a rope as actual climbing now and be aware there may still be loose material.
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 30/May/15 with Ian l

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/15

George Killaspy - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15 with Darren

clean, crack getting polished.
1-2-3-40 - AltLd - 15/Apr/15

Sol Armer - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/15

JosephTATaylor - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/15

jcw - 2015

The approach to the foot of the route has suffered a bit of rockfall - it is still safe, but requires a bit more care. Nice first pitch, scrappy top pitch
Pete_Frost - AltLd rpt - 30/Nov/14 with Jeannie Sherwood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/14

Led 1st pitch-was great! Scramble up to it more sketchy-look out for the boulder with the via ferrata step in - go up and left of this then round to a big tree at the start.
Lyndsay Superclimber - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/14 with Ryan

Finding it was the hardest part. Big packs on with bulky footwear through mud loose rock and brambles. However. The first pitch is brilliant with great gear all the way. Pitch 2 is some nice move's with more brambles. All in all. 1* and worth a look.
luke glaister - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/14 with casey johns

worth the effort just for the first pitch.
casey johns - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/14 with luke glaister

Bryn_F - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/14 with Dave Bulley

rachelpearce01 - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14

Bryn_F - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with Iwan, Gerwyn

Hidden - AltLd - 17/May/14

iwanap - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with Gerwyn

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/14

Led as one pitch. The lower crack is amazing, pity about the upper bramble fest.
maria85 - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Rob Cooper, Jules

Pete Randall - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Rob H, Pete Neden

Resorted to a rope on approach 'scramble'. Apart from an aggressive bramble second pitch seemed quite clean. Good climb.
caradoc - AltLd - 13/Apr/14 with Matt H.

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/14

foostu4 - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/14

simeclimb68 - AltLd rpt - 29/Mar/14 with Ed Mtchell

Great jamming!
edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Simon Palmer, brmc members

td72 - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with sadams601

Lead 2nd pitch.
sadams601 - AltLd O/S - Mar/14

friendzone1234 - AltLd O/S - Mar/14

davebrox - 2014

p2. Very good climb. Scramble approach may need to be roped up for those not confident.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Halla

We did the original finish, too much ivy otherwise.
scotty h - 2nd β - 12/Oct/13 with Matt Moore, Andy Finney

Logged as DNF but actually Did not start But logged here for future reference. Approach is a long exposed diff solo! Deb backed off the crack after 3m, as it was getting late we abseiled off the same route we climbed up to the start and climbed Christmas Curry. Worth a revisit but looks quite sustained and maybe high in the grade.
Simon Cahill - 2nd dnf - 28/Aug/13

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/13 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/13

Pitch one was brilliant, the second pitch was overgrown and not worthwhile.
Eddie1234 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Chris Anderson

Lead before, P1 only.
jezb1 - 2nd - 24/Aug/13

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 20/Aug/13 with Clare

If you forget the approach awesome route. Well worth the jungle whacking death defying scramble.
alias dave - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Josh, Dan Allen

DBoothroyd - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Tom Davis

Lead pitch 1
J.Atkins - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - 03/Jun/13

Great corner crack. Challenging crux both technically and physically, but plenty of bomber gear. The easier climbing above is joyful if you keep away from the brambles.
thecurlyone - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Cordelia Molloy

Jones_88 - AltLd - 26/May/13

guy757 - Lead - 25/May/13

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with ah

Done in one pitch, top pitch rarely done but has superb rough rock so well worth doing despite the ivy.
mike lawrence? - Lead - 24/May/13 with Colin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 22/May/13

Interesting approach scramble. Almost distasterous first pitch bringing up my second...
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with JonnyO - AltLd - 04/May/13

C led p1, I led p2. Excellent route. First pitch easier than it looks, 2nd pitch has been cleaned recently and is a delight, finishing up the rib to the right of the chimney
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13

Joshthomas - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Apr/13

Matt South West - 2nd - 07/Apr/13

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Ian

sparkybatteryboy - Lead - 17/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13

Nick Biven - 2013

Jonesdben - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Oct/12

Hidden - 27/Sep/12

good feature, bit shortlived.
mynyddresident - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with joe

claregardiner - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd dog - 02/Jun/12

richyg - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12

Great route although it is quite hard to find. Dave lead crux pitch top bridging all the way. second pitch jungle adventurneering.
Dale - AltLd O/S - May/12 with dave

I lead the second pitch
therat - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/12

First climb at Tremadog. I lead 1st, which was a brilliant bridging corner. The climb is let down by the second pitch which was, to be honest, dump. Also the Diff approach was terrifying in the damp with trainers.
Dave 88 - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Double Knee Bar

Lead P2. First pitch was class, second was crap.
Double Knee Bar - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Dave 88

This is a good route if you can find it. The scramble to the start is as hard as the main pitch. Beware of the brambles.
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Anita Grey

jossjones - AltLd O/S - Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/12

Callum Anderson - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Nov/11

AntWallace - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11

great first pitch! then gets very overgrown! needs a good clean...
adam06 - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with chris white

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/11

Katex - 2nd - 05/Aug/11 with Will, Simon Edwards

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

most challenging route ive done so far as a climber which hasn't really been very long. The second pitch was fine and i got through it easy but i must admit i did struggle a bit on the crack.layed back up the middle part then there was a few holds to get up the rest. I did rest down on the rope once or twice but i managed to get through it so overall happy :)
outlaw87 - 2nd - 20/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/11

First pitch eases towards top of corner, led second pitch - straight forward - original finish.
Danjones - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with Steve Keys

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/11

TomMorgan - AltLd O/S - 27/May/11 with James Slater

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/May/11

P1. Felt stiff to me but stacks of gear.
jezb1 - AltLd - 16/Apr/11

mike_uk82 - 16/Apr/11

kdalzell - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with Liam Fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead - 09/Apr/11 with karen dalzell

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/11 with tony (army)

The corner is lovely. Led in one big pitch, origional finish.
HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Nikki

Hidden - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - 02/Apr/11

wilkie14c - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/11 with Dave Clarke

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/10

Pretty hairy in places but otherwise enjoyable climbing, got a old (rigid) size 3 friend stuck just a few feet from the top, if you can get it out you deserve it
sdrawkcabeoj - 18/Sep/10 with Ken Priest

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with AO

dominiclincoln - 04/Sep/10 with attirechimps, griffon

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/10

Olli-C - AltLd - 26/Aug/10 with dad

popov86 - May/10

popov86 - Lead - May/10

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/10 with Clare

as part of the tremadog clean up festival
michael burrows - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with mike doyle

Hidden - 2010

simeclimb68 - 2010

simonp - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09

aged_ape - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/09 with Alex B

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 22/Apr/09

Way harder than grades given the guidebook. 1st pitch is outstanding; very gymnastic. Second pitch is initially jungle exploration followed by by a desperated climb up a corner 'cause a crucial foothold is very polished. Might be better for the tall!
climbinmunkey - AltLd dog - 13/Apr/09 with Helen

Top pitch needs a bit of gardening.
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 12/Apr/09 with Wyn Price

Just beat the dark. P2 still vegetated but worth it for the main crack.
babymoac - Lead - 25/Jan/09 with Gareth

Seymore Butt - 2009

Scramble to the start (up broken chimney left of Kestral Crack) might want to be pitched. 1st pitch looks intinidating, but strenuous moves alls short lived, and load of good gear. Really nice pitch. 2nd pitch still a bit over grown, but good position on exposed slab.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Ben

Led pitch 2. The approach was rather exciting! Pitch one also had its moments (and was definitely harder than the 4b given in the guide). A nice route all told though. Could do with more traffic on the upper slab!
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Sarah Clough

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/07

barni - AltLd - 2007 with Paul James

Lead as one big pitch
ChrisJD - Lead - 27/Aug/06 with rc

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/06

sgl0jd - AltLd - Jul/06 with Steve Hobbs

I got first pitch but found getting to the climb more hairier.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/06 with Ritchie Griffiths

NickBrat - 2006

Hidden - 2006

samwelli - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/05 with Steve Hobbs

GScot38 - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead - Jul/05

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 09/May/04 with Amnon, Scott Titt

My first Welsh climbing.
masa-alpin - 2nd β - 17/Nov/01 with Rob Whit [ULMC]

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/00 with Joe Thompson

Marq - AltLd O/S - May/00 with Mel Cutler

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

Rog Wilko - Lead - Nov/98 with Debbie Wilkinson

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/98 with Iain Boardman

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

five - AltLd O/S - Jun/96 with TW

Overgrown at top in '96
iskra2000 - AltLd - 27/May/96 with Paul Woodcock

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/96

Budge - Lead O/S - 1995 with Pete Stockton

Hidden - AltLd - 1993

Hidden - AltLd - 31/May/92

Pitch 1 only
Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Jun/91 with Niel

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/91

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/90

ChrisJD - AltLd - 25/Feb/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

tlr - AltLd - 26/Nov/89 with Fin

Iain Thow - Lead - 04/Jun/89 with Paul Whatley

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 22/Apr/89 with Ernie Horrocks

nigehughes - 2nd - Apr/89 with Mark Hall

Carl Smethurst - AltLd dog - 24/Sep/87 with Simon Tovell

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/87

ewar woowar - 1987

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Mar/85

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

sadams - AltLd - 15/Sep/84 with Celia Bull

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/84

Robmwatt - 1984

nigehughes - AltLd - Sep/83 with Jim Rintoul

AlanLittle - AltLd - Feb/83 with Simon Catterall

nigehughes - AltLd - Sep/82 with Mick Taylor

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

Tim Sparrow - Lead - 1982 with Steve Gynes

andy gittins - 1982

mark-abz - 2nd - 27/Sep/81 with Andy W

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 15/Sep/81 with Mike Gilbert

Hidden - Solo - 04/May/81

Hidden - Solo O/S - Aug/80

Chris Terrey - AltLd - Feb/80 with Pete Hevezi

Ian Clare - 1980

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

rogerskews - AltLd - 1980 with Richard Walters

TonyF - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/79 with Ian Birkinshaw

tapley - Lead - 18/Aug/79 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/79

Hidden - 1978

Wearing mountain boots
RichardMc - Lead - 03/Dec/77 with Betty Seifert

steve L - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/76 with sharpie

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 20/Dec/75 with Roger Leval

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/75

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 28/Feb/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Ian Jones - Solo O/S - 1975

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Mike Owen - 1975 with John Roberts

mikej - 2nd - 16/Jul/74 with Mike Byles

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 09/Feb/74 with Bob Knapton

One of John's ropes 'fell off' his harness ...
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 17/Oct/71 with John Williams

lump'o'lead - 1970

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 25/Apr/69 with Dennis Gray

mikej - AltLd - 26/Feb/68 with Keith Johnson, Geoff Williams

RichardMc - 2nd - 05/Mar/67 with Ian Stromberg

uphillnow - AltLd - 1964 with jim williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lucylou19, Broom136, tommy, Terrance Glancy, sharpie530

Total votes cast 157
hard HVS0 of 55
HVS0 of 55
easy HVS1 of 55
hard VS17 of 55
VS36 of 55
easy VS1 of 55
hard HS0 of 55
HS0 of 55
easy HS0 of 55
hard 5a0 of 54
5a0 of 54
easy 5a6 of 54
hard 4c15 of 54
4c31 of 54
easy 4c2 of 54
hard 4b0 of 54
4b0 of 54
easy 4b0 of 54
3 Stars0 of 48
2 Stars33 of 48
1 Star15 of 48
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat