81m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Delicate, sustained and excellent. The route is not well protected and is prone to seepage on the initial crack and upper crux - care required if at all damp, especially on the upper part of P2.
1) 4a, 35m. Start up the main corner for 20m then trend left across the bubbly slab to a rib. Balance up this to a small stance and high belay under the overlap.
2) 4b, 40m. Climb through the bulge then move left and head up the vague rib on good holds to the overlap high above. Jig left and right through this and finish up the final slab, carefully avoiding any wetness. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Menlove Routes, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, UK Lonely Leads.

dansimkin 11/Oct 2nd O/S
with Matt Malkin
Anna duckett 04/Oct AltLd O/S

Led the 2nd pitch- very sparsley protected!

with Matt H
Matt Harmon 04/Oct AltLd O/S

led P1

joermann 17/Sep AltLd
Hidden 11/Sep AltLd
davenev 11/Sep AltLd O/S
with Graham
Phijinator 10/Sep AltLd O/S
pete1993 22/Jun AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch, felt very good value for vs, with 2 getting on for 20m runouts with sustained climbing, really good climbing though, definitely the best of the classic rock link up, slab was wet in places but fairly easily avoidable

with Dawn
Dawn_K_B 22/Jun AltLd O/S
Sean Kelly 13/May Lead

Very, very wet and not much gear higher up the route! I'd like to do this climb again on a dry day.

with Antonio Ramos
JohnMetcalfe 21/Sep/14 2nd

Andy led both pitches. Top pitch very bold, very little gear, easily a 10m run out. We did it in 3 pitches and that seemed to work well - 2nd belay just below the second bulge. Rotting mouse in obvious hand hold at 1st belay not nice!

with Andy Wilson
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd
Craigyboy13 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

i led p2. p1 was a lovely pitch. p2 was a bold one but its all there, the slab was covered with water. yes the gear is poor but the slab has excellent friction. vs is a bit low for this climb, HVS 4a-4b

JamieSparkes 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First pitch was pleasant, though arranging the belay was a little awkward, especially with the rotting mouse in the jug by the stance. second pitch is ridiculously bold. featuring sustained climbing up a 20m runout, which was thankfully mostly dry! where to go after the gear in the overlap seemed a little vague (CC Ogwen has the line skirting left into the gully here, whereas NWR goes straight up), so pulled through slightly rightwards and then finished up the arete between the two main grassy corners - a 60m pitch! Felt like HVS 4c on the lower half of P2, and E1 5a up the final bit to me. All in all, a very unbalanced finish to the usual idwal link ups.

rohai545 26/Jul/14 AltLd

Lovely climbing, but as mentioned previously, scant protection where it really matters after the stance. After the bulge drifted off left early due to rope drag. Second pitch felt more HVS 4c -exhilarating!!

with Ross Morton
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd
gav 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Very intimidating second pitch. A long way before I placed a bit of gear that I had any confidence in, and only 2 good pieces in total. Didn't use the spike runner after the first overlap as it was loose, as was the downward-pointing flake just above it. Didn't really fancy the prospect of those falling directly onto my belayers head :-). Was a bit wet in places despite the long dry spell, which added to the spice a little. Brilliant climbing however and a good mental test for me.

with Mark
Hidden 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
bantamdave 28/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Some of the best slab climbing ever. Amazing second pitch !

with Rob Hunt, Nigel
sgl 21/Jun/14 Lead
with Susie
erbridger 18/Jun/14 AltLd
with Kate Edhouse
Kate Edhouse 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 1, awesome.

with Emily
Denry 06/Jun/14 -

Day with British Mountain Guide prospective students. Led by Tamsin Gay, supervised by Libby Peter. Followed on from Red slabs. Amazing day and conversation with two inspiring people. Climbed with Christine Biles as other second

with Tamsin Gay
Adam Hill 21/May/14 2nd

A bit damp and an interesting second pitch to finish off an awesome day.

Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd
carl_123 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
ali macphee 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead
ewan i 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with mark duggan
Mark D 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Ewan Irvine
bob johnson 07/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rich Ball
MoWalker3 13/Jul/13 AltLd
with Rick
Zoomer 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led the crux pitch, very, very bold unless you have small cams (00) and micro nuts. Excellent climbing.

with Si Denny
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
papashango 19/Jun/13 AltLd

pitch 2 was pretty bold and wet, felt HVS

with Jon R
Hidden ??/2013 -
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
tim20 ??/2013 -
Hidden 01/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/12 AltLd
Mr. K 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Wet and horrible pitch 1, wet and gearless and horrible pitch 2 which I backed off leading!

with Steven Mount
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Darrell Read 06/May/12 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Ran out, dodgy belay for 3

southern_smit 05/May/12 AltLd

2nd pitch bold and run out great classic

with james buckley, jim mc call
climbing son 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Amazoniangirl 05/May/12 2nd
GermanAlex 25/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't follow the original line due to wetness, had to trend left via a break in the rock below the bubbly slab. Ended up desperately digging for protection, hammering in 2 micros followed by 4c-ish balancy climbing on barely adequate holds 4m higher. Involuntary variation was HVS for sure, a fall would have had serious consequences. Had to ab off the shallow spike on the belay as night approached.

with Dan
Darron ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -


Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead
Alex Thompson 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Got a tiny bit run out on the 2nd pitch... 2 bits of gear 50metres. Silly, but didn't see the placements.

Hidden 05/Aug/11 Lead
Danjones 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Bold second pitch, but steady climbing.

with Steve Keys
kitkat78 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Kat
RossT 27/Jun/11 AltLd dnf

had to escape right because it started to rain

Lev 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Climbed the second pitch from the top of grey rib.

marcoleptic 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
chris smith 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
fizzychewitt 24/Apr/11 AltLd
with Martin
joscott 24/Apr/11 2nd
Pete Nugent 22/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

JN showed me a nifty appproach to the crag - under Sub Cneifion Rib and then scramble up Seniors Ridge. From the shoulder before the final section of Seniors Ridge, you can scramble diagonally down, aiming for a prominent sloping white queartz slab. From there you can work your way round to the foot of the routes. JN soloed p1, I took a more measured approach by opting to lead p2 with a rope. I found it tough perhaps because I was under the misapprehension that I was on Grey Arete!

with John Nuttall
Dan Lane 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Superb climbing, not a lot of gear but great fun running it out. The last pitch of an awesome day of 350m of good climbing.

Ashley Hold 17/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
bullethead 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Richard Yorke
will moy 22/Mar/11 Lead

led both pitches then scrambled to glyder fawr. awesome day 10 pitches 1000feet of HS-VS climbing

Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
AMarchant 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Second pitch during a grey rib/grey slab link up. Wouldn't of managed it without ally's superior climbing skills

Mancunianimport 17/Mar/11 AltLd
hilty ??/2011 AltLd O/S
JEP ??/2011 -
31770 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
bsmedz ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
petebale2000 ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
mattfarr ??/2011 AltLd O/S
with Liam
cymjt ??/2011 -
grp 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Cornish Cream ?/Oct/10 -
Owain Llewelyn 29/Jun/10 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd
pebbles 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

me pitch 1 guido pitch 2

Neil Metcalfe101 12/Jun/10 AltLd

I did 'disappointing' 1st pitch & Allan, thankfully, did the 'delicate' 2nd pitch, phew!

with Allan Mac
RCrockford 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 as continuation from Grey Rib. Run out was epic on the main slab.

with Jonah
Conan 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Dom Hall
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
willson 23/May/10 AltLd

Top pitch

with ben
Monkey_Alan 15/May/10 Lead O/S

WMC Classic Rock weekend: Hope, Lazarus, The Arete, Grey Slab. Well-protected first pitch just makes the blank sections for the second seem even bolder!

Hidden 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
J1PEF 10/Apr/10 AltLd

linked with heather wall, original route and arete, p2 is 4c with very poor gear, bold!!

beds74 10/Apr/10 -

Easy climbing but run out massively for the grade. Had E2's with more gear...

AngelaC 10/Apr/10 Lead
jimorothy 24/Sep/09 AltLd

Classic. What a second pitch: there's bold and then there's BOLD! Even the classic spike runner wobbles (I had little faith in it). But what a pitch!!! Very technical - only 4b? I think I did several 4c moves. It's one for brave slabheads rather than a chimney sweep like me. Almost as hard as Great Gully! - and that is saying something!

with Rachel Crolla
snakes77 18/Sep/09 2nd O/S

having completed tennis shoe, lazarus and groove above, confidence was high or maybe to high! pitch 1 seemed fairly straight forward, needed lots of thought. pitch 2 on the other hand! hmm! wasnt a happy bunny at all. VS 4b maybe just a little to far for someone with my experience. i really didnt enjoy pitch 2 ! however i did make it up ! still a great days climbing! brilliant in fact...... need more now.. the days of Diff's and VDiff's are a thing of the past now. funny how there's no photos of climbers on this crag, its a bloody nightmare! and I loved it

with Monkey1
monkey1 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

What can I say about this, truly fantastic end to the best days climbing I can remember. Tennis shoe, lazarus, Groove above, Grey Slab. First VS multi pitch lead, absolutely buzzing! Some serious moments but felt under control throughout. Delicate friction climbing in parts, spaced and poor gear, not the best belays, but immensley satisfying. Split the 2nd pitch into 2 using an in-situ thread belay in the grassy groove 15m up from the end of pitch 1. This helped!

with Snakes77
Graham Westbrook ?/Sep/09 Lead
mjackson ?/Sep/09 -
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd
Ste Ridd 08/Aug/09 Lead

Friend 3 in overlap. Bold top pitch. Hope VD ***, Lazarus S4a, The Arete VD, Grey Slab VS4b done as linking climbs - Car to Car 8hrs

matt.woodfield 24/Jul/09 AltLd
wilkie14c 03/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Very bold top pitch with a very poor belay below you!

with Dave Clarke
Mark Wilson23 03/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Clarke, Paul blanchard
jamie ward 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Williams
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd
mr mills 13/Apr/09 Lead
with Chris
quarrtman1 13/Apr/09 2nd
with mills
Hjort 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

P2. Bloody scary in wet.

with Serinde Van Wijk, Matt
Sardien 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Toby Vye, Matthew Jaques
keith leonard ??/2009 -
MikeDowsett ??/2009 2nd

After a day out on Idwal Slabs, walked across to finish on Grey Slab. Walked down with head torches. A full day out.

with John Harrison, Paul Tretheway
lost.arrow 20/Jul/08 -
with Stu Sherwood
sgl0jd 07/Jun/08 AltLd

beautiful rock and climbing if more than a little run out on the second pitch

with Steve Hobbs
mjeffery 16/May/08 AltLd O/S
TP ??/2008 Lead
with Brian S
poofish 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Jon Woodhead
kleinej 05/May/07 AltLd
with Patrick
paddygoodwin 05/May/07 AltLd
with Jason
robertporter 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Keith Jones 14/Apr/07 2nd
with David
John Marsland 12/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Ant and Dunc
mikelaing ?/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/07 -
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd
tumbling wizard ??/2007 Lead
Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
lithos 28/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

brilliant, maybe better to bealy lower down than suggested. friend 3 in belay as well as wires and blunt spike. Top pitch is great but run-out

thegoatstroker ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Trefor Hughes
Hidden 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 29/Apr/06 AltLd rpt
with Simon & Dave
Hidden 29/Apr/06 AltLd
BALD EAGLE 29/Apr/06 AltLd
with Mark Van Rossum
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
keith leonard ??/2006 -
Andrew Barker ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Phil Applegate
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ??/2005 Lead O/S
with JAck Graham
donkster ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with mudders
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2005 -
with Clare
Hidden 14/Aug/04 AltLd
Norman_P_W 14/Aug/04 AltLd
with Bob M
Swirly ?/Aug/04 Lead dnf
with Pete Morgan
A Crook 20/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

exposed and all the better for it

ChrisBrooke 24/Apr/04 AltLd
with John Inkpen
Batty 16/Aug/03 AltLd dnf
Rob Davies 01/Aug/03 Lead

The slab was dry and pleasant but there was a lot of sodden vegetation elsewhere.

with David Kinniburgh
shaun walby ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Phil West
John HW ?/Jun/03 AltLd
with Cath
aged_ape ?/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
with Matt O
Phil West 23/Jun/02 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch which was wet. Entertaining wearing a rucksack.

with Shaun Walby
shaun walby 23/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Phil West
jmr ?/Jun/00 AltLd
with Paul Greenhow
Hidden ??/2000 -
bullybones ??/2000 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2000 Lead
with Toby E
babymoac 19/Aug/99 Lead
with Graeme
Hidden 19/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
Ian Archer 09/Aug/97 AltLd
with Danny Hale
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/96 Lead

Great route that it is, I think this is still undergraded at VS. Pitch two is sustained 4c with very little gear. That's HVS in my book.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Nigel R Lewis 21/Jul/95 2nd
with Gary Lewis
Budge ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Babika ?/Jul/95 Lead

Well worth doing. Nicely run out.

with Christina Something
Rich ??/1995 -
auld al ?/May/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/92 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jul/90 Lead O/S
BigHairyIan 13/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Martin (from South America)
Andy Say 08/Apr/90 Solo O/S
phardman ??/1990 -
AlanLittle ?/Sep/89 AltLd
with Tom Dillon
nigehughes ?/Jun/88 Lead
with Mark Troy
tapley 21/May/88 Lead
with Tony Raphael
Iain Thow 14/May/88 AltLd

Led pitch 2, only 2 runners in 150ft.

with Steve Ball
rogerskews 09/May/87 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Hidden 11/Oct/86 Solo O/S
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
Mark Kemball 04/Jul/85 Lead
with Chris May
Hidden 22/Jul/83 Lead
charlesmfrench 29/Oct/82 AltLd O/S


with Alan Bennett
Nigel Bond 09/May/82 Lead
with Rodger Edenborough
nigehughes ?/Apr/82 AltLd
with Ian Maguire
Nigel Coe 27/Mar/82 AltLd
with Frank Farrell
Hidden 10/Apr/81 AltLd O/S
MikeDowsett ??/1981 Lead
with Jon Sharpe
Hidden 12/Jul/80 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Brian Wilderspin 21/Sep/78 AltLd
pneame ?/Sep/76 Solo O/S
mikej 21/Aug/76 Lead
with Brian Norris
Chris Craggs ??/1975 -
Hidden 22/Aug/73 AltLd
zukator ??/1970 -
jcw 24/Oct/65 -
with Ron James
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High HVS
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High HS
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High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
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Low 4b
High 4a
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Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
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