The Fascist and Me*** E4 6a
[fun in the sun, 3 kb]40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning route up the big wall right of the cave. The top pitch is like climbing a line of bolt-on jugs up the bow of a ship!
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the awkward lower wall to a small roof. Move up and left onto a nicely-placed sloping ledge. Step left to a hole then climb up and back right via a hard move and continue easily to the ledge.
2) 5c, 20m. The loose groove on the right leads to a ledge below a flake crack. Arrange some gear in this, then swing left along a finger traverse line to a thread. Make a hard move up then move right onto the arete which is followed to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. G.Gibson 26.2.88 26/Feb/1988

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Photo: fun in the sun © the clamp
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 83 logbooks, and on 28 wishlists.

Lead p2. thought id tried this a few years ago, but think we were in the wrong place. Found the start nails. Not that enjoyable for me... tired and greasy didn't help
markalmack - AltLd - 23/May/15 with will

A route to many... Followed Mark up the first pitch, which was greasy at the start. Spent ages working it out, and then trying to get the gear out. By the time I was at the upper groove I was blowing. Mark gave me some beta which ended with me pulling a hold off and falling - sh*t beta. I lead the 2nd pitch, and I was gassing from the start. Clipped the peg, stood up and couldn't let go with either hand... 2nd time up got through the crux, but I had nothing I just had to keep questing until i eventually bellyflopped on to the top about 2m right of the arete. So pumped!
WB - AltLd - 23/May/15 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/15

NuclearNev - 2015

Nearly came a cropper low down, ridiculously greasy!
nathanlee - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/14 with Jack Lawledge

Lead both pitches
Apharri - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/14 with Dave Wharton

lead pitch 2
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/14 with rachel slater

Lead pitch one, got really leg pumped a few moves up and psyched out by the grease so tried to downclimb but couldn't... lowered off then lead it cleanly from the ground with the gear still clipped. First pitch so greasy! Second pitch was amazing!
Rachel Slater - AltLd - 13/Aug/14 with Tim Newton

Brutal start, took a few up-n-downs to commit, but once you get going its a good first pitch, only to be greeted by a squawking seagull nesting on the ledge, awkward! Scuttled off to the end of the ledge to bring up Jack, who romped up the awesome positions of the top pitch, pretty wild!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Jack G

Awesome. Hung on a wire on the first pitch to retrieve some welded in gear. I led top pitch - incredible!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Ed Booth

led first pitch. Dry from the rain but greasy as sin!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Adam Booth

Led P1. Ground-Up as I slipped putting 1st good wire in low down so ended up holding the bunch of wires! Sorted the wire out, came down and did it next go. Pretty tough I thought, slightly greasy but probably good nick for this section of crag. Had to try really hard on this! Had a bit of an epic as Guy fell off seconding so had to prussik up! Top pitch is brill E3 5c - one tricky section past a brand new peg to jugs.
Duncan Campbell - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with GuyVG

Lead P2 (E3 6a). Fell off P1 into space and had to qucikly relearn prussiking. Stunning top arete, bit of a turning point for me in regard to mental fortitude. Never doing P1 again, ever.
GuyVG - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with The enemy

Lead P1. Greasy but still doable, sustained difficulty right from the off.
Ed morris - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with stefan

Stefan_Morris - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Edmundmorris

valecoastclimber - Lead rpt - 24/Sep/13

P2 only, as dictated by big seas and high tide. Outrageously steep!
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Rob Durran

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/13

Alice Thompson - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Michael Porter, Dan Gibson

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 03/Jul/13 with alice thompson, michael porter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

P1. Climbed through the crux then broke a hold off the headwall! Lowered off and did it again. Cool moves negotiating the blocky shapes on the overhang. Top pitch is simply stunning.
Daniel Heath - AltLd RP - 09/Jun/13 with Remus

Great fun tho burly, slippery and awkward at the start. Not sure Kate enjoy the burl so much. Top pitch mega fun exposure, shame it's escapable.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Kate

dswansonlow - AltLd dog - 30/Mar/13 with Emma Twyford

Justin T - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Cherry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

soph - Lead - 27/Jul/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/12

Nick Sillem - Lead rpt - 2012

top pitch only
markalmack - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/11 with james marjot

khawk - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with DT

datoon - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with K

Two fierce pitches.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with KM

Lead both pitches, was damn impressed with the first one and both are brilliant. Awesome route.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/11 with Mike

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Jake

Led second pitch. Awesome!
jacobjlloyd - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Led P2
HamishD - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Wil Treasure

Led first with rests.
drysori - AltLd - 01/Jul/11 with hamdunn

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Luke, Barni

Led P1
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

barni - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with luke, Glyn

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Apr/11

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 23/Apr/11 with Andy Reeve

mwatson - 2011

Brown - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/10 with James T

innes - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Nibs

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with steveE9

Watch that tide! Led 1st crux.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Nige

nige - AltLd - 08/Aug/10 with richard kirby

Led both pitches, started to the right of original start as it was wet. The top pitch had a big wet patch on it, but managed to skirt right around it. Wicked.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/10 with Ben alsford

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Feb/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

feilx - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Andy Mosienko

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/09

Billg - Lead O/S - Mar/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07

cragdan - 2nd dog - 23/Jun/07 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/07

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/06 with Reeve

Boy - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

Kev Little - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/05

Gus - Lead - 11/Jul/04 with grimer

buzby78 - Lead - 08/May/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2000

tuftynick - 2nd - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/98

Done with a fascist who I can't remember. The first pitch is hard. Harder to second as the rope jammed. The top pitch is good but very escapeable
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 25/May/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/97

sadams - AltLd - 28/Mar/97 with John Boyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/93

keefe - AltLd - 01/Aug/93 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 07/Aug/91 with Paul Dearden

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/91

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
anguskille, Kris2fa, Ollie B, Lenny, gurumed, Chad123, Stanners, Ed Booth, azachariades, francois, monsteratt, Dan_Carroll, ian caton, Audrey @ The Castle, drcorbasisgod, Oli, hawkins321, Pythonist

Total votes cast 82
hard E50 of 29
E50 of 29
easy E50 of 29
hard E46 of 29
E421 of 29
easy E42 of 29
hard E30 of 29
E30 of 29
easy E30 of 29
hard 6b0 of 28
6b0 of 28
easy 6b0 of 28
hard 6a6 of 28
6a21 of 28
easy 6a1 of 28
hard 5c0 of 28
5c0 of 28
easy 5c0 of 28
3 Stars22 of 25
2 Stars3 of 25
1 Star0 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean RP