The right arete of the pillar gives an elegant experience in head climbing which just merits the grade. 1) 6a, 20m. Climb the right-hand side of the arete until it is possible to pull around onto its left. Tip-toe up this side past a small roof (old peg). Move up past a small wire to a square hold, then climb the dinky groove above with some excitement. 2) 5b, 25m. Climb the shallow groove behind the belay to the next ledge, then move left into Trevallen Pillar. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 30.4.83 30/Apr/1983
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Russell Birkett||06/Sep||AltLd O/S||
Nice route. Spicy technical and run out section at the top. The broken jug on the arÍte has left a sharp edge that Tim managed to break further by standing on it on 2nd. Still useable tho.
|Duncan Campbell||24/May||Lead O/S||
Climbed after Ferdia broke the protruding jug off. Fortunately still a good hold underneath. Happy to find this pretty steady though was close to falling off the last move to the ledge as its a bit of a stretch! Amazing sequence to the ledge.
Fell from last moves. Took a whipper and blew the hold on the arÍte. Makes the top slightly easier I think :-/
inspected gear a bit on abseil. would have been a bit gripped if i hadn't as there are a couple of hidden bits of gear. Baking hot. Still a nice exciting run out to the ledge.
|HAJ Francis||?/Apr||Lead O/S|
Fantastic top crux!
Super fun move to jug on arÍte :0)
|Ed Booth||25/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
So hot!! Sweat dripping in my eyes.
Bit harder & more exciting than I was expecting. Tricky gear.
Bottom end E5 if you have a good head above gear, but really good climbing. The 6a bit comes right at the start, feels hard especially when wet and slippery from the tide! The moves round the arete are awesome, and the sequence from there to the top is just run-out enough to give a little buzz.
|tim newton||24/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Did it in 1 rather than 2 pitches and finished up the top groove to the right of trevallen pillar instead of traversing left to finish up that. Seemed an obvious way to finish the route and the ropes are completely straight from ground to top with that finish, so no rope drag
|Ed morris||16/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
First E5 onsight! There is a wobbly jug at the start which almost threw me off. The runout section is superb.
|Luke Brooks||31/Mar/13||Lead O/S|
Loved this. Great to finally get on it!
|dan gibson||06/May/12||Lead O/S||
|Mike Goldthorp||26/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
Sweet top section, felt well bold! Bottom section was still wet and really slippy from tide - bit dodgy, but fantastic technical (easy) climbing on the left side of the arete, and an exposed crux, quite a big reach but not too desperate
|Rich Kirby||05/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
|Kev Little||??/2006||Lead O/S|
simon "the horse" wilson
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||Lead O/S|
Great route with good support from Dave. Thanks mate. The start is hard as is the finish
|Steve Crowe||01/May/99||Lead O/S||
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||09/Sep/96||Lead O/S||
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||30/May/90||Lead||
|Mike Owen||30/May/86||Lead O/S||
|steve L||16/Jun/84||Lead O/S||