A fine counter line to The Fang.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb The Fang to the top of the pinnacle, then pull straight up the sustained and demanding crack above and climb it through a bulge. Take the continuation of the crack in the corner above to a belay in the corner below the fang.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up right to a small ledge on the arete. Climb into a hanging groove above, then make a hard traverse up and left onto the upper wall. Finish up the delicate slab above. Small/micro wires useful. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Well that went badly. Tried to get on the Fang but Tom led Extraction P1 instead, I rested on second, got to the stance and Tom was pumped and I wasn't keen. Abbed off and the next party retrieved our gear. Need to come back and actually climb the Fang next time!
P1 only, found it more difficult that it looked. Pumpy.
|scott quinn||12/Sep||Lead O/S||
p1 only linked into the fang
Did p1 years ago. Lead p2 this time.
|jacob shieldhouse hadley||30/Jul||2nd O/S|
P1 only, Liam led P2 of The Fang
|Brian H||04/Jul||2nd rpt|
hard first pitch, committing second
Led First. Two excellent pitches!!
|Hannes B||24/May||AltLd O/S||
|Brian Rodgers||18/Apr||AltLd O/S||
|Derek Ryden||11/Apr||AltLd O/S||
|Dan Vaj||24/Mar||2nd β||
|tim newton||08/Feb||AltLd O/S|
|Rachel Slater||08/Feb||AltLd O/S||
Lead p1 which i'd seconded a few years ago and found nails! Glad my jamming has improved since then.. Second pitch was fun too.
one pitch, excellent
In 1 pitch.
linked into the second pitch and then traversed into strip tease so not the full tick. well worth it though to do a Stride In A Thunderstorm across the striptease gully to the tree belay.
Led p1. Both really good, and very different. Second pitch more involving?..
Another excellent line at this fabulous crag. Ben P1, I led P2.
A good route, did it in one pitch in a race to best the rain. It started dripping a bit on P1 which was fortunately sheltered by the overhang but then stopped bar a few drops now and then. The P1 crack is the crux and just about earns the grade, whereas P2 is pretty straightforward and the hidden jug is pretty obvious! If only E2s always felt so easy! Nice run out 5a slab to finish. Abbed off. A great end to a great weekend!
P2. Pete led P1 and had to dog quite a bit, pumpy! Interesting crux, had to place blind wires and hope for the best. Committing crux, can't see the good holds till you're already going for it. Felt like tough E2.
Quite easy really. Lovely top slab. Nice n run out
Joe, Chris Reid
|Tom Livingstone||11/Jan/14||AltLd rpt||
|Matthew Ferrier||12/Oct/13||AltLd O/S||
P2. Apparently I forgot how to extend runners under the roof so had to untie one rope mid rockover onto the slab. Possibly my favorite pitch of the weekend.
only first pitch
Led first pitch.
led P2 - was getting dark!
pitch one then fang p2 rested once
|dan gibson||21/May/13||AltLd O/S||
|Alice Thompson||21/May/13||AltLd O/S|
Just first pitch.
Awesome route as one pitch! I found the crack near the start quite tricky for a warm up
finished in dark again
|Michael Allday||14/Jun/12||AltLd O/S|
P1 Me (wimped out onto Fang) P2 Aidan (hero, as usual)
|Bruce Houston||?/May/12||AltLd O/S|
|Michael Allday||?/May/12||AltLd O/S|
|Dave Foster||15/Apr/12||AltLd O/S||
Lead P1. Exposed second pitch.
|Adam Booth||30/Mar/12||Lead O/S|
|Ed Booth||30/Mar/12||2nd O/S||
Cool route. Adam led both pitches. Nice to finally do it. A good route!
Edwin Mitchell, Adam Booth
|Tom Livingstone||23/Jan/12||AltLd O/S||
|Ewan Russell||19/Nov/11||AltLd O/S||
I did first pitch(easy) jamie did second pitch which was exciting!
Lead 2nd pitch. hard and scary. poor protection on the top slab.
|david morse||05/Nov/11||AltLd O/S||
Tricky with a raging hangover...
1 long pitch. v. nice.
Lead first pitch by accident instead of doing the first pitch of the fang
|Si dH||01/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
Led 2nd pitch.
|john lynch||28/May/11||2nd O/S||
finished up the fang
In 1 pitch on international meet in between showers
In 1 pitch on international meet in between showers
In one pitch. Varied and brilliant. Failed attempt on p1 the previous evening so had to retrieve gear!
|Duncan Campbell||24/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
P2. From P1 of The Fang. Awesome little pitch, tricky crux but its actually fairly easy to read, don't be put off by the intimidating look of it.
Kate Lawrence, Liam Fleming
first pitch only
|Justin T||05/Sep/10||Lead O/S||
Pitch 1 only, escaped off up Fang as rain came in
|mr mills||27/Mar/10||Lead rpt||
|Duncan Campbell||08/Mar/10||Lead dnf||
got a rope thrown on me as i pulled through the steepness! spooked me a bit then got boxed figuring out the crux - 1 move away! will be back - this marks a definate improvement in my climbing!
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||06/Mar/10||Lead O/S||
Pretty tough cookie. Left the ground without really deciding what we wanted to do, ended up following this line to the top.
|Alex Mason||23/Jan/10||Lead O/S||
Led first pitch. Best E2 if done at tremadog a pair of wicked pitches.
|Mike Goldthorp||23/Jan/10||AltLd O/S||
a sick brace of pitches. did 2nd pitch, baffling at first!
|Liam FLeming||05/Sep/09||Lead O/S||
|Richard Horn||23/May/09||AltLd O/S|
Lots of confusion about which route i was on, ended up on this.
After having backed off the first pitch years ago, I nailed it relatively easily. Despite this, I backed off the easier but more exposed top pitch.. dammit
|Ram MkiV||17/Mar/09||Lead O/S||
as one big and excellent pitch.
Run out top slab, sustained severe..
Seconded top pitch
Heather and Caff
Finished off the fang onto the top pitch of this route-quite scary moves round that overhang!
both pitches are awesome,and completely different!
|Morgan Woods||08/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
nice jamming on the first pitch then a few delicate moves on the second.
|IOAN D||19/Feb/06||Lead O/S||
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||29/Jan/06||AltLd O/S|
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||-|
|zero six||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|michael burrows||28/Mar/97||AltLd rpt||
Led 1st pitch
|michael burrows||19/Mar/95||AltLd rpt||
led 1st pitch
|Southern Mark Smith||??/1995||-|
|3 Names||??/1993||AltLd O/S|
|michael burrows||30/Jul/89||AltLd O/S||
and john roberts
Pete Finklaire, David
|Steve Crowe||26/Sep/87||Lead dog|
|Mike Owen||25/Jan/87||Lead rpt||
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||17/Sep/85||AltLd||
Climbed the first pitch opf extraction in mistake for the Fang finished up the fang
About 1983, may have seconded it before?
|Mike Owen||16/May/81||Lead rpt||
|Ian Jones||??/1980||Lead rpt||
|Ian Jones||??/1978||2nd O/S||
Very pleased with this.
|Mike Owen||18/Jun/77||AltLd O/S||
|steve L||19/Sep/76||AltLd O/S|