2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine counter line to The Fang.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb The Fang to the top of the pinnacle, then pull straight up the sustained and demanding crack above and climb it through a bulge. Take the continuation of the crack in the corner above to a belay in the corner below the fang.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up right to a small ledge on the arete. Climb into a hanging groove above, then make a hard traverse up and left onto the upper wall. Finish up the delicate slab above. Small/micro wires useful. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
GPN 03/May Lead O/S
with Trad Exchange
belay bunny turned bad 03/May Lead
Hidden 20/Apr AltLd dog
jezb1 20/Apr AltLd O/S

P2. Brilliant. Short and sharp difficulties on P1, then committing and techy climbing on the p2 crux before the spicy run out on the top slab.

Hidden 03/Apr AltLd
JenShelley 03/Apr AltLd dog
pbb081079 18/Mar 2nd

Complete but not sure if exact date

mynyddresident 17/Mar AltLd
with wolf
wolf.leeb 17/Mar AltLd O/S
with nic
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Tom Livingstone 03/Nov/15 2nd rpt
with Angus Kille, Tim Neill
anguskille 03/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
WB 18/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

another route i might have done in the past distant past

with Andy M
Dawn_K_B 10/Oct/15 2nd dnf

Well that went badly. Tried to get on the Fang but Tom led Extraction P1 instead, I rested on second, got to the stance and Tom was pumped and I wasn't keen. Abbed off and the next party retrieved our gear. Need to come back and actually climb the Fang next time!

with Tom Brown
craggyfingers 20/Sep/15 Lead
Tom.Priestley 12/Sep/15 2nd O/S

P1 only, found it more difficult that it looked. Pumpy.

scott quinn 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S

p1 only linked into the fang

mynyddresident 16/Aug/15 AltLd

Did p1 years ago. Lead p2 this time.

jacob shieldhouse hadley 30/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Dervey 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

P1 only, Liam led P2 of The Fang

with Ollie, Liam
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
alice fuller 04/Jul/15 2nd dog

fell off jam on 1st pitch.. to amuse pete:)

Brian H 04/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Mark Warnett ?/Jul/15 AltLd

hard first pitch, committing second

BRoe 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

p2

MarkRoe 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led First. Two excellent pitches!!

with Ben Roe
Hannes B 24/May/15 AltLd O/S

p2

with Tom
greglad 23/May/15 AltLd dog
Robb Bert 23/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 13/May/15 AltLd dog
Hidden 12/May/15 2nd
Brian Rodgers 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Neil Hillis
Hidden 11/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
Derek Ryden 11/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Mike Pycroft
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/15 -
Dan Vaj 24/Mar/15 2nd β
with James Machaffie
tim newton 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 which i'd seconded a few years ago and found nails! Glad my jamming has improved since then.. Second pitch was fun too.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
alice fuller ??/2015 2nd dog

fell off first pitch.. to make pete feel good;)

Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Darron ??/2015 -
Hidden 24/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd rpt
Lenny 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch.

with Iain
danm 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Dan Arkle
bede.west 26/Sep/14 Lead

linked into the second pitch and then traversed into strip tease so not the full tick. well worth it though to do a Stride In A Thunderstorm across the striptease gully to the tree belay.

bigdrew 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Both really good, and very different. Second pitch more involving?..

with Dan
Hidden 30/Aug/14 -
climberchristy 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Another excellent line at this fabulous crag. Ben P1, I led P2.

with Ben Cole
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead dog
mikeyjbs 02/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with will woodhead
Misha 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A good route, did it in one pitch in a race to best the rain. It started dripping a bit on P1 which was fortunately sheltered by the overhang but then stopped bar a few drops now and then. The P1 crack is the crux and just about earns the grade, whereas P2 is pretty straightforward and the hidden jug is pretty obvious! If only E2s always felt so easy! Nice run out 5a slab to finish. Abbed off. A great end to a great weekend!

with Eszter
Ewano 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Pete led P1 and had to dog quite a bit, pumpy! Interesting crux, had to place blind wires and hope for the best. Committing crux, can't see the good holds till you're already going for it. Felt like tough E2.

Hidden 12/Jun/14 AltLd
Mark Grist 24/May/14 2nd
PaulTanton 24/May/14 Lead rpt

Quite easy really. Lovely top slab. Nice n run out

Luxulyan 23/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
switch 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy P
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Joe, Chris Reid
Tom Livingstone 11/Jan/14 AltLd rpt

P1

with Gwen Lancashire
mike mo ??/2014 -
coldwill ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

P2. Apparently I forgot how to extend runners under the roof so had to untie one rope mid rockover onto the slab. Possibly my favorite pitch of the weekend.

robgixer 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

only first pitch

amccann 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch.

smallerrich 08/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

led P2 - was getting dark!

Hidden 08/Oct/13 AltLd
stuart34 30/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S
ben360 28/Aug/13 Lead

pitch one then fang p2 rested once

Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Kevster 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Will T
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
dan gibson 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
sgl0jd 23/Feb/13 2nd
JCAshman ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Just first pitch.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Luke Brooks ??/2013 -
shed_hed 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route as one pitch! I found the crack near the start quite tricky for a warm up

wynaptomos 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
mike lawrence? 23/Aug/12 AltLd

finished in dark again

with FatRob
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/12 2nd
Glyn 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Luke
Michael Allday 14/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
nickmattia 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

P1 Me (wimped out onto Fang) P2 Aidan (hero, as usual)

with aiden jones
Hidden ?/May/12 AltLd
Bruce Houston ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Michael Allday ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Foster 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Exposed second pitch.

with Si 2
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
edmitchell 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Nails!

Ed Booth 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Cool route. Adam led both pitches. Nice to finally do it. A good route!

with Edwin Mitchell, Adam Booth
Tom Livingstone 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

P2

samrad 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with tom livingstone
Hidden ??/2012 -
Ewan Russell 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

I did first pitch(easy) jamie did second pitch which was exciting!

JamieSparkes 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. hard and scary. poor protection on the top slab.

with euan
david morse 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Tricky with a raging hangover...

with todd
Hidden 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
markalmack 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

1 long pitch. v. nice.

with andy lole
Olli-C 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch by accident instead of doing the first pitch of the fang

CRiddiford 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Pete Graham
Si dH 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Neil Furniss
J.Wells 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JasTaplin ?/Jun/11 2nd
john lynch 28/May/11 2nd O/S

finished up the fang

with simon smith
Owain Llewelyn 27/May/11 AltLd
with Gareth E
Hidden 20/May/11 AltLd
laurelfan 09/May/11 2nd
with Sophie
soph ?/May/11 Lead

In 1 pitch on international meet in between showers

soph ?/May/11 Lead

In 1 pitch on international meet in between showers

Tim Sparrow 28/Apr/11 Lead

In one pitch. Varied and brilliant. Failed attempt on p1 the previous evening so had to retrieve gear!

with Pete Robinson
Hidden 10/Apr/11 -
Duncan Campbell 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

P2. From P1 of The Fang. Awesome little pitch, tricky crux but its actually fairly easy to read, don't be put off by the intimidating look of it.

with Mikey G
kdalzell 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Kate Lawrence, Liam Fleming
Liam FLeming 19/Mar/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
Katex 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Liam
barni 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S

first pitch only

with Ewan
benchwarmer 01/Mar/11 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
al99 02/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

led 1st.

with Luke Thomas
Justin T 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only, escaped off up Fang as rain came in

with Cherry
Hidden 29/Jul/10 -
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 02/Jun/10 AltLd RP
with Tony Payne
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
JulesV 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
mr mills 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Duncan Campbell 08/Mar/10 Lead dnf

got a rope thrown on me as i pulled through the steepness! spooked me a bit then got boxed figuring out the crux - 1 move away! will be back - this marks a definate improvement in my climbing!

with Bubbles
conorjclarke 06/Mar/10 2nd dog

a little rain, some falling, lots of cursing

gnc760 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Pretty tough cookie. Left the ground without really deciding what we wanted to do, ended up following this line to the top.

with Conor Clarke
Alex Mason 23/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Led first pitch. Best E2 if done at tremadog a pair of wicked pitches.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 23/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

a sick brace of pitches. did 2nd pitch, baffling at first!

mr mills ??/2010 -
with Elfyn (chang)
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
benchwarmer 20/Sep/09 2nd dog
barni 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Top only

with Ewan
Liam FLeming 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
Hidden 14/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
simonp ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with sophie whyte
Richard Horn 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 04/May/09 AltLd
with Kev
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
mike278 03/May/09 Lead dnf

Lots of confusion about which route i was on, ended up on this.

with John
Castleclimber 12/Apr/09 Lead dnf

After having backed off the first pitch years ago, I nailed it relatively easily. Despite this, I backed off the easier but more exposed top pitch.. dammit

with Vince McNally
Ram MkiV 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S

as one big and excellent pitch.

with Lee
Brown 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with John
leepip ?/Mar/09 2nd
with steve ramsden
Hidden 31/Jan/09 Lead
AdrianP ??/2009 AltLd O/S

Run out top slab, sustained severe..

with Olli
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd
C@rwyn 22/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Seconded top pitch

with Heather and Caff
HeatherF 21/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Finished off the fang onto the top pitch of this route-quite scary moves round that overhang!

with Caff
kieranrex 11/May/08 AltLd

both pitches are awesome,and completely different!

centurion05 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S

nice jamming on the first pitch then a few delicate moves on the second.

with Wilbur
Hidden 03/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Nicos 17/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
frost ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with N Griffiths
IOAN D 19/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with gareth
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
chrisbevins ??/2005 2nd O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Mar/04 Lead
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Mar/04 Lead
nige 20/Feb/04 Lead
with dave kells
cem 24/May/03 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Neil Northrop
Hidden 03/Oct/02 2nd
rapidrich 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Jason
Shaw Brown ??/2002 2nd
with David Menadue
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/99 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
liabilityliz 26/Jul/97 2nd
with Nick Dixon
michael burrows 28/Mar/97 AltLd rpt
with pete bailey
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 -
Andy Say 27/Jul/96 Lead
crossleysm ?/Apr/96 -
Neil R 16/Sep/95 AltLd

Led 1st pitch

with Ian
Budge ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Richard Teed
michael burrows 19/Mar/95 AltLd rpt

led 1st pitch

with phil jones
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 AltLd
rob.grafton ??/1995 Lead
with Ben, Bruce
jfletcher 21/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
Chris Ellis 28/Jul/93 2nd
with Dan Morgan
shoulders 23/Jul/93 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Mick King 15/May/93 Lead
with Simon Walsh
3 Names ??/1993 AltLd O/S
ste_d 01/Sep/92 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden 13/Jun/91 Lead
mattnuttall 03/Apr/91 AltLd O/S

led p2

with Alan Holden
steve taylor ?/Mar/90 Lead
with mike robertson
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden 26/Nov/89 Lead
mark-abz 19/Aug/89 Lead
with Andy W
michael burrows 30/Jul/89 AltLd O/S

and john roberts

with pete roberts
Chris Wright 31/May/89 Lead
Hidden 27/May/88 2nd
Dave Musgrove 01/May/88 AltLd
with Pete Finklaire, David
steveb2006 30/Apr/88 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Mike Pycroft
Hidden 03/Apr/88 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 03/Apr/88 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Steve Crowe 26/Sep/87 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Aug/87 Lead rpt
Bruce Kerr 21/Jul/87 Lead
with Johnny May
Mike Owen 25/Jan/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
keefe 15/Nov/86 -
neilh 20/Jul/86 AltLd
with Neil Smith
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/Sep/85 AltLd

Separate days

with Brian Harley
Hidden 17/Aug/85 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/85 AltLd
Hidden 16/May/85 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
sadams 05/May/84 Lead

Climbed the first pitch opf extraction in mistake for the Fang finished up the fang

with Chris Thwaites
keefe 15/Apr/84 -
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
TonyF 21/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with Tony Cox
Mark Kemball 02/Jul/83 AltLd
with Dave Ball
uphillnow ??/1983 Lead

About 1983, may have seconded it before?

Hidden 14/Jul/82 AltLd
stp ??/1982 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Hammy 27/Jun/81 AltLd
with Nick Arding
Mike Owen 16/May/81 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
Hidden ?/Sep/80 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead rpt
with Mike Wright
Hidden ??/1980 -
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
Ian Jones ??/1978 2nd O/S

Very pleased with this.

with Dave Greenald
Mike Owen 18/Jun/77 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
steve L 19/Sep/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, Hidden, rurp, hutchay, Hidden, woody0606, Owen W-G, iceaxejuggler, tbs105
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 47
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set